Global Cosmetic Industry, GCI November 2014

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CONTENTS NOVEMBER 2014

n VOLUME 182, NUMBER 9

features 18

Trends from Emerging Markets: Potential in Turkey and the Middle East, Exploring Brazil, Snapshot of Color Cosmetics in South Africa, Skin Diversity Explained BY VARIOUS AUTHORS

26

40

42

BY ROB WALKER, EUROMONITOR INTERNATIONAL

30

Beauty Brightened: New Skin Brightening Ingredients A brief exploration of skin tone, brightening mechanisms and the ingredients that may be effectively used as skin brighteners. BY SHYAM GUPTA

34

36

BY JACK CORLEY

46

Bath & Body Flourishes Even as Middle-Class Confidence Wains Despite conditions that one would expect to have a negative impact on bath and body, the category posted its best results in a decade. What makes bath and body so resilient?

More Than a Feeling: Multisensory in Bath & Body

The Challenges of Establishing Natural Standards for Fragranced Personal Care Consumer confusion, the rise of sustainability and the appearance of retailer standards.

Custom research can be a window into your target consumers’ worlds.

28

E-mail marketing remains the most effective way to turn potential consumers into actual consumers. BY BETH COCHRAN

How Research Helps Brands Sell More, Avoid Catastrophes and Win Hearts BY DENISE HERICH

How to Maximize Your E-mail Marketing Efforts

The Power of Product Sampling Giving away free samples of products can actually be more beneficial than discounting. BY JEANA DELANO

50

2014 Beauty Packaging Identity Trends The first goal in strategizing and designing packaging identity should be to authentically reflect the brand’s core identity, and cross-checking the strategy across relevant trends can help inform whether to follow or contrast trends. BY ANIKO HILL

online

Suppliers go beyond “feel” when creating unique body care ingredient technology offerings, with multisensory formulations key to today’s successful products.

TextureTrends Sheds Light on Purchasing Behavior of Women with Curls, Coils and Waves

BY LISA DOYLE

BY MICHELLE BREYER

Copper and Its Role in Collagen Development

A Three-Step Guide to Finding the Right Printer for Your Personal Care Packaging

As new peptides are embraced, information will be added to the discussion about a new use and, perhaps, usefulness of copper—a cosmetic ingredient that has been around for centuries. BY MICHAEL Q. PUGLIESE

www.GCImagazine.com

BY LINDSAY GALAS

Multicultural Skin Care BY JOELLE LEE

Contents

1

CONTENTS

inside scoop

“

Permissions testing results provide the green light needed to proceed, the yellow light to adjust the offering or the red light to avoid potential million-dollar mistakes.

”

How Research Helps Brands Sell More, Avoid Catastrophes and Win Hearts (Page 26)

departments columns 6

Starting Point: What I Haven’t Got BY JEFF FALK

16

Inside Brazil: Avon Makeup Line Luxe Available Through E-commerce BY FERNANDA BONIFACIO

56

The Whole Package: Leveraging Consumer Research To Fuel Packaging Innovation

8

Go: Innovations, ideas and insights

12

Street Level: New products, promotions and events

14

Fragrance Focus: News about the fragrance industry

58

Wrap Up: The latest in packaging innovation

60

Main Ingredients: Ingredients now on the market

61

Events Calendar

BY BECKY DONNER

resources

2

Contents

61

Products & Services Showcase

64

Advertiser Index

GCI November 2014

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EDITORIAL Jeff Falk Editor in Chief

1-630-344-6071/jfalk@allured.com

ADVERTISING SALES Tom Harris US (NJ & PA), Canada, Central & South America Kim Jednachowski US (except NJ & PA) Jane Evison Europe & Asia Paige Crist Fragrance Kasia Smialkowski Coordinator

1-201-445-4702/tharris@allured.com 1-630-344-6054/kjednachowski@allured.com 44-(0)-1430-441685/jane-evison@btconnect.com 1-630-344-6060/pcrist@allured.com 1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com

AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT & MARKETING Steve Owen Brand Specialist

1-630-344-6027/sowen@allured.com

PUBLISHER Maria Romero Executive Assistant

1-630-344-6062/mromero@allured.com

DESIGN DEPARTMENT Andrew Frederick Design Manager Bryan Crowe Production Manager Hon Bannapradist Senior Graphic Designer

1-630-344-6042/bcrowe@allured.com

CORPORATE Janet Ludwig President Linda Getner Controller Linda Schmitt Director of Marketing Sandy Chapin Group Show Director

CUSTOMER SERVICE Subscriptions: 1-888-399-0899, fax 1-630-653-2192, www.GCImagazine.com/subscribe Quality custom reprints or e-prints: Foster Printing Services, 1-866-879-9144, sales@fosterprinting.com

Allured Business Media 1-630-653-2155 • fax 1-630-653-2192 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA www.Allured.com European Office: Jane Evison, East Yorkshire, England

OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS Alluredbooks Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine: Portuguese edition Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit Face & Body Spa Conference and Expo Flavorcon Perfumer & Flavorist magazine Skin Inc. magazine World Perfumery Congress

Global Cosmetic Industry (ISSN 1523-9470) is published ten times per year as Jan./Feb., March, April, May, June, July/Aug., Sept., Oct., Nov. and Dec. issues by Allured Business Media, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream IL 60188-2403 USA. Copyright 2014. Free subscriptions to Global Cosmetic Industry are available to qualified individuals. The publisher reserves the right to determine qualification of free subscriptions. Replacement issues are available only through single copy sales. Single copies: $10; GCI Directory Issue: $35 (Add $10 per order shipped to Canada; add $15 per order to all other countries.) Periodicals postage paid at Carol Stream IL 60188 and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to Global Cosmetic Industry, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA. Change of address: Give both the new and old addresses. Allow two months for a change to become effective.

Members of the American Business Media. All correspondence regarding business, editorial, advertising and production should be sent to Global Cosmetic Industry, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA. Allured Business Media makes all attempts to publish accurate information; however, this publication may contain technical inaccuracies or typographical errors. The reader assumes all risks concerning the suitability and accuracy of the information within this publication. Allured Business Media assumes no responsibility for and disclaims all liability for any such inaccuracies, errors or omissions in this publication and in other documents referred to within or affiliated with this publication. www.GCImagazine.com

4

Contents

GCI November 2014

Starting

n by JEFF FALK

Point

What I Haven’t Got

I JEFF FALK

Editor in Chief

GCI MAGAZINE Editorial Advisory BOARD Alisa Marie Beyer

Coastal Salt & Soul

MARIE ALICE DIBON

Alice Communications, Inc.

Ada Polla

Alchimie Forever, The Polla Beauty Group

Art Rich, phD

A. Rich Development

Rick Ruffolo

R4 Innovations

Cristina Samuels

Mode Cosmetics

Laura Setzfand Epiphany

’m not a naturally expressive. True, I make my living working with words, and I have plenty of ideas, but pulling them out of my head when needed and turning them into compelling words on the page involves a moderate amount of frustration and at least a little bit of inspiration. So, I’m thankful for the constant stream of online headlines that jar things loose by being either irksome, interesting or relatable to something GCI has covered—and a combination of the three is golden. As I write this, Apple revealed its iPad Air 2. While not that interesting, it fell into the irksome category for me, thereby inspiring words for this column as my deadline loomed. I know it sounds curmudgeonly when the middle-age guy gripes about yet another tech product, but it is more than “why does anyone need a 6.1 mm, thinner than a pencil screen?” It is not the product itself or the myriad of other Apple launches—it is the proclivity to “update” and “upgrade” because something seemingly better has come along. Lyrics from an old Sinead O’Connor song popped in my head, “I have all that I requested, and I do not want what I haven’t got.” Most of us request tech products that serve a defined need or service. We bought iPods because they were convenient ways to store and play music, and they did that incredibly well. We bought cell phones because we could make calls whenever and wherever we were. We bought iPhones because they combined the two and allowed us to browse the Internet. I’m somewhat oversimplifying all of this, but when all of our requests have been met, the only thing left to do is update and upgrade. And updates are not necessarily upgrades. In fact, when the consumer has to relearn how to use a device and its functionalities, I’d argue that it is a downgrade. I could go on, but it just turns to point-by-point complaints, so I’ll just jump to the point. When you get down to it, there is often a disconnect between what consumers want/need and what is sold to them and how—and that’s not something confined to tech. Diagonal Reports believes that the beauty industry and its consumer are out of sync, reporting that consumers view beauty by functional need rather than by category. Consumers conceptualize beauty in terms of their needs, focusing on an outcome such as a “younger” or “fairer” skin or clean and/or manageable hair. The universal starting point for everyone is “me” and “my problem.” However, the industry, according to the report, sells the category classification, the technology, the channel and the segment on the “wrapping.” According to Diagonal, the rewards for matching needs with products are great. It reports that a historical review of research reports shows a consistent trend: companies successfully enter the market by focusing on buyers’ problems. To achieve a cosmetic company’s ultimate goal to build and retain brand loyalty, what’s a better way than using the consumer as its inspiration and focusing on what they need/want and not what it wants to sell them? n GCI

6  Starting Point   GCI November 2014

Intelligent

Hydration

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Discover an innovative approach to effective moisturization through Croda’s moisturizing complex, DuraQuench IQ. Its dual mechanism optimizes skin moisturization by the formation of an intelligent structural layer on the surface of the skin, while regulating water loss from within by reinforcing the skin’s natural barrier. DuraQuench IQ SA has been specifically developed with the Asian market in mind, and is both JSQI (Japanese Standards of Quasi Drug Ingredients) and China IECIC listed. For more information, visit us at www.crodapersonalcare.com

North America marketing-usa@croda.com Europe, Middle East & Africa pc-europe@croda.com Latin America marketinglatam@croda.com Asia Pacific pc-asia@croda.com

Innovation you can build on

TM

Long lasting hydration Temperature and humidity responsive Protects against the drying effects of soaps and detergents Visible improvement in skin dryness Effective in both leave-on and wash-off systems

US patent pending

Mass Color Cosmetics Set to Hit £1 Billion in 2014 Mintel’s latest research reveals mass market color cosmetic sales are set to hit £1 billion in 2014, with prestige sales additionally predicted to reach £552 million. With 93% of U.K. women using color cosmetics, total sales grew to £1.5 billion in 2013, an impressive 6% increase on 2012 sales that reached £1.4 billion. Notably, it is prestige sales that have seen the biggest growth, holding a 35% share of the market in 2013 (£531 million), up from 34% in 2012 (£491 million). Mass market’s share on the other hand has fallen from 66% in 2012 (£939 million) to 65% in 2013 (£986 million). Charlotte Libby, senior beauty analyst at Mintel, said, “The prestige color cosmetic market performed strongly in 2013 as consumers traded up to prestige brands and took advantage of continued innovation in the category. However, as savvy shopping behaviors continue in the beauty market—and innovation is matched by mass-market brands—the prestige share of the market is unlikely to see continued increases by the end of 2014. Prestige brands can encourage consumers to trade up with smaller-size products, offering a more purse-friendly method of trialing products. Mass brands can also focus marketing communications on their product formulations, dissuading consumers that more expensive products are the only choice for advanced formulations.” Within the prestige sector, showing their high-fashion credentials, it is eyebrow definers that top the color cosmetic choice, with one in five (22%) consumers choosing a prestige branded product over a mass-market or budget brand. Sales of eyebrow products reached £28 million in 2013, an impressive 42% increase on 2012 sales. With 25% of U.K. women now using eyebrow definer, this growth looks set to continue with sales predicted to reach £31 million in 2014, gaining a 7% proportion of the eye color cosmetics market. Further to this, Mintel’s analysis shows brand loyalty among prestige color cosmetic users is strong, with two in five (39%) of those who buy prestige brands of foundation agreeing they rarely change the brand of face makeup they use, compared to an average of just 27%. Additionally, when choosing their color cosmetics, U.K. women show a greater willingness to favor prestige base products over prestige point color, with 42% of primer users choosing a prestige product over a mass market or budget brand compared to just 11% of nail polish users. Despite its low penetration in the prestige sector, as the creativity of nail polish has become increasingly fashionable and accessible— the nail color cosmetic segment continues to grow from strength to strength. Sales of nail polish surpassed lip color for the first time in 2013, with the former reaching sales of £244 million and the latter £242 million. While this marked a 6.6% increase for nail polish sales, they are predicted to reach £284 million by 2014, with the lip sector expected to grow to just £244 million in 2014. Following strong product innovation and fashion credibility, seven in ten British women now use nail polish, compared to just six in 10 women in 2013. Currently, usage peaks at 16–24-year-olds, with 81% of this age group using nail color. Rather than having a firm favorite, 48% of nail polish users wear four or more shades, with purple being worn by 48% of nail polish users, closely followed by baby pink (45%) and dark red (42%). In the rest of the color cosmetic segment however, the palette is becoming muted, with a third of U.K. women who use eye, lip or nail color cosmetics saying they only use natural-look products, with this attitude having no age bias (32% of 16–24-year olds and 33% of 55–64-year olds).

8

GO!

GCI November 2014

Global

Grooming Routines

In its “Personal Appearances Survey 2014,” Euromonitor International measured how long women spend grooming themselves in the morning compared to men. According to Euromonitor, the research was partly conducted to answer the question, “Do women around the world monopolize the mirror?” According to the results, time spent grooming and investment in appearance varies in different markets and cultures around the world. From showers to sponge baths, teeth to nails, the specific grooming practices of various consumer segments were taken into account, and the research showed women around the world do indeed spend a significantly more amount of time grooming themselves then men. Consumers in Mexico spent the most amount of time in the morning grooming. Mexican women spend around 45 minutes or more, while men spend just over 30 minutes. Conversely, Australian consumers spend significantly less time grooming in the morning, with both men and women spending an average of less 30 minutes. The research also shows more than 50% of Latin Americans brush their teeth more than three times per day, while 50% of consumers in Asia, Europe, Australia and the U.S. brush their teeth twice a day and around 10-20% only brush once per day. Also, almost 100% of people living in Latin America shower daily, while around 60% of people in Europe or Asia shower once a day. And around 45% of Asians take daily baths, while about 10% of Latin Americans, Australians, North Americans and Europeans do. And 50% of people in Mexico wash their face daily, as opposed to 100% of Indians that do.

www.GCImagazine.com

GO!  9

Beauty, Healthcare Converge

10

Against a backdrop of consumers looking to improve their general wellness and appearance, the beauty industry is gradually transforming to become more health orientated, according to a Euromonitor International Analyst Insight from Nicholas Micallef, beauty and personal care analyst. As a result, cosmetics companies are increasingly focusing their innovation efforts in this direction. In responding to these demands, new product development is steadily becoming ever more concentrated on the capability of addressing topical health conditions. This requires sophisticated efficacious technology that combines beauty with therapeutic solutions—i.e. cosmeceuticals.

consumer insight, with users demanding effective treatments for extremely dry skin, which, nevertheless, were cosmetic and contained a beauty element rather than being solely pharmaceutical. Thus, dermocosmetics are bridging the gap between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals and allowing beauty companies to strengthen brand credibility and expand their portfolio. Naturally, suppliers are also adapting to this trend. Evonik has developed the new active Sphingony, claimed to prevent hair loss and address scalp health. Likewise, Sederma developed Sebuless, a multifunctional ingredient designed to mattify and equalize the skin tone of acne-prone skin.

Dermocosmetics: The New “Derma” Approach

Potential Developments

Companies are developing products that take a more preventative and nourishing approach. Hair care is undergoing rapid formulation development. For example, in the area of scalp health, companies have developed stronger products with antidandruff positioning formulated with pharmaceutical-style ingredients such as tar and ketoconazole aimed at treating itchy and flaky scalp. Moreover, the growing awareness of scalp health has prompted the industry to supply more sophisticated products that offer targeted solutions by using traditional skin care ingredients like keratin, aloe vera and avocado oil. Unilever’s TRESemmé 7 Day Keratin Smooth and Renewal Hair & Scalp are both positioned as treatments for scalp health and strong hair. Similarly, Johnson & Johnson’s Neutrogena portfolio spans across medicated shampoos with the T/Gel range, as well as more cosmetic hair treatments such as the Triple Moisture Deep Recovery Hair Mask designed to moisturize and nourish the hair. Hair loss is undergoing a similar development in product formulations with the use of FDA-approved Minoxidil, and traditional cosmetic shampoos are being extended, such as Procter & Gamble’s Pantene brand extension Pantene Expert Collection Minoxidil Topical Solution USP 2% Hair Regrowth Treatment for Women. Others addressing hair loss include L’Oréal Paris Elvive Fibrology, launched in early 2014, formulated with the patented ingredient Filloxane, claimed to thicken hair, thus increasing hair volume over time. In skin care, the use of salicylic acid, a staple ingredient that treats blemishes, is rising in order to treat acne-prone skin. According to Euromonitor International data, volume consumption of salicylic acid tripled 2007–2012. Likewise, skin care players like Unilever advancing established brands by offering targeted solutions for skin problems, as with the recent launch of DermaSeries. DermaSeries was driven by

Inspiration from different ingredients and categories is creating crossovers that drive innovation. Such was the case with BB creams combining SPF, color cosmetics, hydration and spot correction. Among the challenges cosmeceuticals face is the need to differentiate them from pure pharmaceuticals while promoting their intent of preventing and controlling hair and skin conditions. This also pushes the need to gain further expertise and develop new technologies. One path is through merger and acquisition activity, enabling beauty companies to move into niche areas. Skin care is one particular opportunity, which, according to Euromonitor International, is projected to achieve a 2013– 2018 global CAGR of almost 4% in value terms at constant 2013 prices. Businesses must think outside of their existing knowledge base and evaluate what synergies could be achieved by diversifying into adjacent categories where there is consumer demand and, hence, research that is worth investing in. This is exemplified by Allergan, a healthcare company, acquiring skin cosmeceutical brand SkinMedica in 2012. In 2013, L’Oréal acquired India’s Cheryl’s Cosmeceuticals, which enabled it to gain access to the professional skin care market. Beauty companies are progressively playing a specialized role in hair and skin care. Potentially, this will evolve into product combinations that stretch further beyond the current choices, conceivably including deodorants with antifungal treatments or topical body moisturizers also positioned as circulatory aids for varicose veins, as examples. High-tech innovations will enable advanced “near-medical” claims with the ultimate aim being of health-based beauty. While cosmeceuticals are an intersection point between cosmetics and healthcare, the lines of delineation are still somewhat blurred. Nevertheless, as health benefits become more prevalent, the beauty industry will continue to embrace cosmeceuticals as competitive points of difference.

GO!

GCI November 2014

Mix and Match Scents According to the 2014 “Women’s Fragrance Track Report” conducted by The NPD Group, nine out of 10 women incorporate scented products into their beauty routine. Studies found that nearly 60% of women use more than one scented product at a time. With more women using multiple fragrance products, fragrance brands have a growing consumer base that requires their evolving scent needs to be fulfilled. From fine fragrance, lotions, hair mists and body sprays, women are using more fragranced products, and almost 20% of women that use a body spray or scented hair mist say they are willing to spend more than $16 on the product. Interestingly, the demographic profiles of fine fragrance users and scented body product users are almost identical. And in the blog post “Consumers look to expand their signature scent outside of the bottle,” Mintel global fragrance analyst Emmanuelle Moeglin looks at how an enticing scent draws consumers to beauty products in categories, including makeup, skin care and hair care. She writes, “Following Mintel’s predicted key 2014 trend Mixologiste, blurring the lines between beauty categories is fast becoming a pull for consumers who look to shake up their beauty routines,” and notes the popularity of multifunctional beauty products. But, how does this play into fine fragrance? Moeglin points out, “Although rarely played in the fragrance field, the Mixologiste trend particularly lends itself to fragrances. The possibility of immersing that particular favorite scent into all aspects of daily routines has potential to appeal to consumers. Almost half (46%) of Italian female fragrance wearers say they would be interested in skin care products that contain their favorite fragrance, and 27% of French perfume wearers are interested in fragrance for clothes.” And beauty brands are catching onto these potential crossovers. Moeglin points out several current examples, including Guerlain’s Terracotta Sun Celebration 2014 Collection, of which she writes, “offers the chance for your entire makeup bag to smell of limited edition fragrance solar floral with notes of bergamot, coconut and orange blossom. The matching scented makeup line includes bronzer powder, mascara and lipsticks.” In nail care, Moeglin points to the Revlon Parfumerie collection, which features scented nail enamels inspired by fine fragrances. Fragrance products that can offer skin care, hair care and body care benefits are increasingly being sought out by consumers interested in cross-category options as well. Moeglin writes, “Consumers are definitely showing an interest in these cross-category benefits, as 60% of U.S. female fragrance wearers are interested in hair perfume that also provides hair care benefits, with 21% willing to pay more for it. Fragrance is not only to be limited to the daytime either—60% of U.S. fragrance wearers are interested in fragrances that can be worn at night, to help them sleep or to refresh bed linen.” For examples of this trend, Moeglin offers the DKNY Be Delicious skin range, which “includes fragrance with benefits designed to make skin soft while leaving it with a fruity and sweet scent” and the U Luxury Alanna Color Protectant Hair Perfume, designed to fortify color and defend hair against daily environmental damage while also refreshing hair with a floral scent. “Introducing new formats and fragrance rituals will certainly help the industry to find ways to grow and innovate,” Moeglin writes. “Brands who dare to innovate, bringing new scented formats to the market, will get attention and drive consumers to come back to the product. Blurring the lines between fragrance and other items central to everyday routine will attract both perfume users and non-perfume wearers.” www.GCImagazine.com

GO!  11

street level

Primal Pit Paste

Natural deodorant company Primal Pit Paste debuted a version of its classic deodorant with less baking soda, which allows it to be used by those with sensitive skin. Primal Pit Paste Light is available in Unscented and Vanilla Lavender. While baking soda neutralizes the bacteria responsible for armpit odor, arrowroot powder is included as a thickener and to absorb moisture from sweat. Finally, shea butter and coconut oil are included to soothe and moisturize skin. primalpitpaste.com

Olive for Eczema

Phyto-C sourced olive leaf to address the delicate skin needs of those suffering with eczema. Superheal O-Live Gel is a highly penetrative gel that relieves the symptoms associated with eczema. The olive leaf has been known for its healing properties, especially in ancient Egypt. In the gel, it moisturizes while also providing soothing and antiirritant benefits. In addition to moisturizing skin and reducing irritation and inflammation, the gel reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It also provides antioxidant protection against UV damage. www.myphyto-c.us

Phyto-C

Baking Soda Deo

new products, promotions and events

Mediterranean Scents

Argan Hair Removal

Church & Dwight Co., Inc.

Church & Dwight Co., Inc. incorporated argan oil into its latest Nair line of hair depilatories. Nair Ultimate Roll-On Wax Moroccan Argan Oil, Nair Sprays Away Moroccan Argan Oil and Nair Shower Power Moroccan Argan Oil add the replenishing and moisturizing qualities of argan oil to the otherwise irritating process of hair removal. www.naircare.com

Moroccanoil harnesses the scents of the Mediterranean with two new body collections. Fleur d’Oranger and Fleur de Rose offer daily exfoliating, cleansing and hydrating products. Fleur d’Oranger uses an orange blossom scent to revitalize and stimulate the senses, while a damask rose scent calls for a more sensual side in Fleur de Rose. Featuring a body buff, soufflé, butter, cleansing bar, shower gel and shower milk, both ranges are formulated with a unique, proprietary blend of ingredients to provide immediate nourishment and hydration for transformational results and beautiful skin. www.moroccanoil.com

BRAND NEWS Murad, Inc. acquired its long-term distribution partner in the U.K., providing it an opportunity to directly manage its rapidly growing business in prestige and professional channels in the U.K.. It is also a strategic foothold for its planned expansion of existing operations in Europe. Murad also will be increasing its overall investment in the U.K. to fund strategic expansion in established prestige retail channels such as John Lewis, Debenhams, House of Fraser, Urban Retreat at Harrods, murad.co.uk and select professional doors. The Mentholatum Company is celebrating its 125th anniversary. L’Oréal signed an agreement to acquire Niely Cosméticos, the largest independent hair coloration and hair care company in Brazil. With a net revenue of R$405 million in 2013, the Niely Cosméticos group has two main brands: Cor & Ton for hair coloration and Niely Gold for shampoos and care. Nars is collaborating with fashion designer Christopher Kane to create The Christopher Kane for Nars Collection, which will launch worldwide in May 2015 with a full color collection featuring products for eyes, lips and cheeks. OPIVU Cosmetics and Coty’s OPI Cosmetics ended their nearly four-year trademark infringement battle, allowing OPIVU to continue to market under their name after a complete makeover. Wet n Wild launched the“Steal The Look” campaign, which allows women to select desired looks—from a high-fashion cover model to a friend down the block—and recreate them using the brand’s makeup. It includes a “Steal the Look” free app, available for iPhone and Android. NYX Cosmetics named Adelaine Morin, the face and voice behind the YouTube channel C0OK1EMONSTER, as the winner of its 2014 Fine Artistry of Cosmetic Elites (FACE) Awards. Olay named actress Katie Holmes as its first global brand ambassador. In her role, Holmes will represent the Olay global brand campaign, Your Best Beautiful, by encouraging women around the world to never settle and be their “best beautiful” in their lives and in their skin.

PEOPLE Crayton Webb to VP of corporate communications and corporate social responsibility for Mary Kay Inc. Energizer Holdings, Inc. announced the anticipated executive leadership teams of the personal care and household products businesses following the planned separation of Energizer, including: Sandy Sheldon, CFO; Manish Shanbhag, VP, general counsel and secretary; Al Robertson, chief marketing officer; John Hill, VP, commercial–North America; Colin Hutchison, VP, commercialinternational; Dave VerNooy, VP, global operations and RDE; Peter Conrad, chief administrative officer; Tony Bender, CIO and VP, business process outsourcing; and Teresa Ceotto, VP, human resources. Robert Loughran temporarily to CFO of Avon Products Inc., assuming the role of Kimberly Ross, executive VP and CFO, while the company searches for a permanent hire. Werner Geissler, Procter & Gamble Company’s vice chairman and special advisor to the chairman and CEO, will retire from the company on Dec. 31, 2014, after more than 35 years service.

12  Street Level    GCI November 2014

Neck Rejuvenation

Jan Marini formulated a cream to address the antiaging needs of the delicate neck area. Juveneck reduces the appearance of wrinkles and creases, refines skin texture and increases hydration to restore a more youthful appearance. The formula contains rye, oat, glaucine, acetyl decapeptide-3, aminophylline and dimethyl mea to lift and firm skin. Meanwhile, oligopeptide-24 and dipotassium glycyrrhizate provide anti-aging and brightening benefits, respectively. Bisabolol, tocopherol (vitamin E) and biotin calm and soothe the skin. Finally, panthenol and hyaluronic acid are incorporated to hydrate the skin. Available at spas and doctors’ offices and at www.janmarini.com.

Out of Africa

www.GCImagazine.com

Derma E unveiled a body line centered around its signature ingredient, vitamin E. Vitamin E Intensive Therapy Bodycare provides moisture, protection and nourishing skin benefits to restore severely dry, flaky, itchy, cracked or damaged skin. Vitamin E is able to restore and maintain skin’s natural barrier function, helping it regain its natural ability to lock in moisture and defend itself against elemental stress. The line’s formulas—Vitamin E Intensive Therapy Body Balm, Vitamin E Intensive Therapy Body Lotion (naturally-scented and fragrance-free) and Vitamin E Intensive Therapy Hand Crème—are blended with the full mix of tocopherols and tocotrienols (alpha-, beta-, gamma- and delta-) sourced from cranberry seed and sustainably harvested red palm oil to provide more complete vitamin E antioxidant benefits. Available at natural skin care product retailers and www.dermae.com.

Eye Care

Kallista Beauty

Foot Peel

Kallista Beauty added a foot treatment duo to its line of products. Marketed specifically to spa and salon professionals, Foot Care System includes Exfoliating Foot Peel and Deep Nourishing Foot Cream. The Exfoliating Foot Peel was formulated to repair, hydrate, soften, smooth and exfoliate skin. www.kalistabeauty.com

Vitamin E Therapy

Jan Marini

Out of Africa introduced a line of body butters formulated with 100% pure, natural, unrefined shea butter. Whipped and Creamy Shea Body Butters are designed to moisturize the face and body without feeling greasy or sticky. They are available in vanilla, lavender, lemon verbena and pomegranate scents. The butters also contain fatty acids and antioxidants A, E and F to hydrate skin while providing anti-aging benefits. In addition to moisturizing skin, shea butter reduces the appearance of stretch marks, fine lines, cracked skin and scars. It can also help soothe psoriasis and eczema. Available at www.outofafricashea.com, www.drugstore.com and www.iherb.com.

Derma E

Shea Moisture

Onsen’s new Smoothing Eye Serum is paraben free, all natural and created to provide a nourishing and cooling effect for the eye area. The lightweight serum is formulated to absorb excess moisture leaving the eye area smooth and bright while minimizing the appearance of crows feet and fine lines. The brand’s proprietary Micro Water Complex technology claims to deliver nutrients effectively to the skin. www.onsensecret.com Street Level  13

News about the Fragrance industry

NEWS

A Touch of Royalty

Robertet unveiled a new $20 million fragrance and ingredient division headquarters in Mount Olive, New Jersey, which the company says will allow it to create more traceable, sustainable and true-to-nature scents. Bell Flavors and Fragrances’ facility in Guadalajara, Mexico obtained SQF Level 3 Certification. The facility earned an “Excellent” rating by meeting a newly revised standard with additional requirements and a more stringent scoring system. Bell now has five manufacturing plants that have food safety certificates recognized by the Global Food Safety Initiative (GFSI). Bond No. 9

Bond No. 9 launched Queens. An addition to the NYC/ NY boroughs scent-mapping fragrances for which Bond No. 9 is known, Queens’ key ingredient, tuberose, is diffused in an unexpected contemporary context, and the note is preceded with citrussy bergamot, blackberry and cardamom top notes. When the tuberose appears, it’s tempered by velvety champaca and tea-like osmanthus and sustained by the reliable base notes of sandalwood, musk, amber and benzoin resin. Etched in gold leaf on the front, the bottle features a whirling rendering of the World’s Fair’s iconic geodesic dome, marking the 50th anniversary of the New York World’s Fair. The back of the bottle features a simple long-tailed Q. The background color is an all-inclusive, multi-gendered royal purple. A 100 mL bottle will retail for $270; a 50 mL bottle for $195. www.bondno9.com

Notes of a Man in Action

Coty launched Stetson Caliber, created to capture the “bold and energetic spirit of the man of action.” The scent opens with key lime and black pepper which give way to a heart of nutmeg, red basil and violet leaf. Earthy oakmoss adds depth of character while the fresh and woody red sequoia note distinguishes the scent with a masculine finish. Available in .5 fl oz / 15 mL ($15) and 1.0 fl oz / 30 mL ($19) sizes at drug stores and mass retailers across the U.S. www.stetsoncologne.com

Eurofragance continues to establish its operations in the Middle East, an area that already accounts for 68% of its total sales, and its Dubai subsidiary obtained ISO 9001:2008, a certification that demonstrates its commitment to “quality and a focus on complete customer satisfaction.” Shay & Blue fragrances—sold in U.K. high-end specialty stores such as Harvey Nichols, Selfridges and its own eponymous boutique— will be made available in the U.S. exclusively at the niche fragrance boutique Indigo Perfumery, located in Cleveland.

PEOPLE Gilbert Ghostine to CEO, Firmenich SA. Maryann Esposito to fragrance evaluation director, Bell Flavors and Fragrances. Véronique Nyberg to vice president of creation, fine fragrance EMEA, Mane. Isabelle Guerlin to director of perfume development fine fragrance EMEA, Mane. Delphine Roussel to fine fragrance director, Asia Pacific, at Givaudan. Maurizio Volpi to head of fragrances at Givaudan. Terri Romeo to vice president of sales, Berjé Inc.

Exotic Floral

The new Wild Essence Halle Berry eau de parfum is a multifaceted floral featuring a top of light fresh citrus. Inspired by Halle’s raw natural beauty, Givaudan perfumer Claude Dir blended the top notes of Sicilian bergamot, black currant and Mandarin zest with a floral heart bouquet of freesia, linden blossom, white rose and cotton flower that provides a brightness and added contrast with white patchouli and sandalwood. The fragrance is bottled in a luminous glass bottle reminiscent of a droplet of water, topped with a transparent cap. To continue to visually convey the fragrance’s nature inspired beauty, the carton evokes sensual natural rainforest elements with a sophisticated hanging foliage print. The 1 oz/30 mL eau de parfum will retail for $28. www.halleberryfragrances.com

Fragrant Alchemy

d’Orsay Paris launched two new fragrances under the Al-Kimiya line: Oud et Bois, built on the dark combination of oud resin and patchouli, and Ambre et musc. The 40 mL fragrances retail for €189. www.dorsay-paris.com

Romeo

FRAGRANCE FOCUS

Scent Not Called “happy”

Pharrell Williams and fashion house Comme des Garcons collaborated to create a wood-based fragrance that strikes a balance of masculinity and femininity, available exclusively at Sephora. Girl features base notes of vetiver, patchouli, cedar, and Australian sandalwood give way to iris, styrax and violet and then top notes of neroli, lavender and white pepper. The 3.3 oz. eau de parfum spray will retail for $135; 0.3 oz eau de parfum spray for $30. www.sephora.com

On-the-go Scents

Poppy Drops introduced its Perfume Sticks, utilizing just three all natural ingredients: coconut oil, beeswax and fragrance oils. Scents include Island Honey, Watermelon Cucumber, Powder Fresh, Flower Petal and Warm Sugar. Each scent is packaged in a spill-proof tube that is sized for tossing into purses, pockets, and backpacks. www.poppydrops.com

14  Fragrance Focus    GCI November 2014

INSIDE

n by fernanda bonifacio

BRAZIL

Avon Makeup Line Luxe Available Through E-commerce Moves by Avon and Natura mark some changes in direct sales strategies in Brazil.

A

von is planning to make an entry into the Brazilian e-commerce space with its makeup range Luxe. Launched in July 2014 with a strong marketing campaign, the new line is targeted at a high-end market, according to Sheri McCoy, CEO of Avon. Online sales have been a long-term aspiration of Avon, but the multinational was reluctant to enter the market for fear of creating competition for its representatives. Before being launched in Brazil, Avon’s largest market, Luxe has been tested in other countries—notably Russia and the U.K. The new line comes on the heels of a revamp of Avon’s makeup line to “meet the demand of local consumers for new products,” says McCoy. All other items will continue to be sold exclusively through Avon representatives.

L’Oréal Acquires Niely Cosméticos L’Oréal announced that it has signed an agreement to acquire Niely Cosméticos. Founded in 1981 by Daniel Fonseca de Jesus, Niely Cosméticos is the largest independent hair coloration and hair care company in Brazil, according to L’Oréal. “The acquisition of Niely Cosméticos is a strategic move for L’Oréal in Latin America and Brazil, one of the biggest and fastest growing hair color and hair care markets in the world where consumers have a long tradition of beauty and demanding expectations” said Frédéric Rozé, executive vice president of L’Oréal in charge of the Americas. With a net revenue of 405 million Brazilian reals in 2013, the Niely Cosméticos group has two main brands: Cor & Ton for hair coloration and Niely Gold for shampoos and

care. Sold at accessible prices and enjoying a large penetration among the country’s middle class, Niely Cosméticos products are widely distributed through retailers and wholesalers, supermarkets, pharmacies and perfumery chains. Niely Cosméticos operates facilities in Nova Iguaçu, in the state of Rio.

Men’s Grooming Thrives The latest figures from the Brazilian Association of Cosmetics (ABIHPEC) show that sales of men’s grooming products in Brazil more than doubled in the last five years, reaching R$9.7 billion in 2013. The category is expected to grow about 80% in the next four years. According to data from Euromonitor International, Brazil is the second largest market for men’s grooming products, ranking only behind the U.S., and there is still plenty of room to grow. A survey by Mintel revealed that from 2009 to 2012, only 2% of new product releases in Brazil were targeted at male consumers.

New President of Natura Natura board member Roberto Lima will replace Alessandro Carlucci as president of Natura. Lima had been the CEO of telecom company Vivo, Grupo Credicard and Publicis Worldwide. With 1.7 million representatives responsible for supporting its direct sales channel, Natura hasn’t announced plans to expand either through company-owned stores or traditional retail chain stores. Industry sources say the company will follow O Boticário’s strategy to create new brands and diversify its product offering. Acquired by Natura in 2012, Australian beauty retailer Aesop is set to open its first store in Brazil

by December 2014. In early 2014, Natura expanded its portfolio to include fashion and décor items. With a slowdown in the direct sales channel and increased competition, Natura’s net income fell 26.8% in the second quarter to R$175.8 million, compared to the same period in 2013. The result was due both to weak sales in the domestic market and a decline in gross margin. According to data from ABIHPEC, Natura holds a 20.4% market share of cosmetics and toiletries in Brazil, a decline of 0.9% compared to 2013.

Lojas Americanas Launches Personal Care Range One of Brazil’s largest retail chains, Lojas Americanas increased its brand portfolio with the launch of the personal care range Basic+ Care. The new release follows the company’s strategy to invest in low-cost, everyday use products, which will be available in over 860 stores throughout the country. Lojas Americanas’ financial director Murilo Correia says the idea is to offer exclusive products at competitive prices. “Our goal is to increase our presence in the retail market and create greater loyalty to our brand among our existing customers,” says Correia. Lojas Americanas currently has 12 own brands and a portfolio of 4,500 products, including clothing and household items. n GCI

Fernanda Bonifacio is a Brazilian journalist who focuses on the beauty industry, and has been published in the U.S. and Europe. She represented ABIHPEC and its member companies globally from 2002– 2008. She has also been a communications consultant for raw material manufacturer Beraca since 2009.

16  Inside Brazil    GCI November 2014

W W W.T C R I N DU S T R I E S .C OM

•

8 7 7- 8 2 7-14 4 4

ICM PRODUCTS: Silicones, defoamers, and additives

AMERICAN GLITTERS: Full range of cosmetic glitters produced with permitted approved colorants

IMERYS: Kaolin, Perlite, Diatomaceous Earth, and Mica

ARMINEX: Manufacturers of traditional and UV curable nail coatings

IMPROVE USA: Aloe Vera gels, oils, and powders JBK WELLNESS LABS: All-natural herbal extracts and premixes

BAYLISS BOTANICALS: Certified organic botanical distillations

J. RETTENMAIER: Natural Cellulose Fibers

BLP CORP: Functional and specialty active ingredients

JUNGBUNZLAUER: Citrics, Gluconates, Lactics, Special Salts, Sweetners, Xanthan Gum, and Specialties

CR MINERALS: Pumice CREMER OLEO GMBH & CO: Naturally derived fatty acid esters EARTH SUPPLIED PRODUCTS: All-natural and certified organic products

NUROZ: Hair care and skin care specialty ingredients: sodium salicylate, thickeners, vitamin E oil, vitamin H, and sodium hyaluronate

ELÈ CORPORATION: Organo-Silicones, Surfactants, and Functional Materials

PREMIER SPECIALTIES: Fragrances, flavors, extracts, and fruit seeds

EMD: Special effects pigments, cosmetic actives, and sunscreen ingredients

ROHA USA: Natural and synthetic colors, lakes, and dyes RML: Caprylyl Glycol and Polylysine based preservatives

FAWCETT: Drum mixers & pumps, both electric and air driven

SASOL: Specialty emulsifiers, AHA-esters, MIPA-laureth sulfate

FRANK B. ROSS: Natural and synthetic waxes

SYTHEON: Proprietary innovative ingredients for hyperpigmentation, acne, aging, and sun protection

FUJI SILYSIA: Synthetically produced amorphous silica gels

IN T EGR I T Y

•

QUA L I T Y

HEADQUARTERS

WAREHOUSE LOCATIONS

26 CENTERPOINTE DRIVE LA PALMA, CA 90623

CHINO, CA OAKLAND, CA PORTLAND, OR SALT LAKE CITY, UT

•

SERV ICE

AUBURN, WA PHOENIX, AZ DENVER, CO DALLAS, TX

•

SEL EC T ION

ORDERS MAY BE PLACED VIA PHONE, FAX, OR EMAIL

PHONE 714 - 521 - 5222 FAX 714 - 521 - 1636 ORDERS@TCRINDUSTRIES.COM

Market Watch

Views and insights from industry insiders provide a unique picture of the potential in emerging markets and offer clarity in considering consumers in these markets.

Potential in Turkey and the Middle East

T

he economies of the Middle East are turbulent ever since the Arab Spring in 2010, with trade hit by the ongoing unrest in the region. This has impacted sales of cosmetics and toiletries, although there are still opportunities for both regional and multinational players—especially in nearby Turkey, where a young population and growing urbanization has helped drive growth in sales of beauty products. Despite these problems, the beauty markets on the Middle East and Africa posted good growth between 2008 and 2013. According to Euromonitor International, the Middle East and Africa beauty market was valued at $24.3 billion, rising by 72% over this period. The majority of sales came from mass brands, which accounted for $14.7 billion. Interestingly, fragrance is the best selling category, with one in five purchases being a scent, with hair care products following closely behind. Other product categories, notably sun care and depilatories, barely register— highlighting the cultural preferences of consumers in the region. 18

Market Watch

By Imogen matthews Turkey: One of the MINTs Compared to the Middle East and Africa, Turkey is a much smaller market, valued at $4.1 billion, according to Euromonitor, but it did post strong growth of 75.6% between 2008 and 2013. Again, mass market brands dominate, accounting for three quarters of all purchases. Hair care leads with a value of $839 million, followed by skin care valued at $585 million. This performance has led to Turkey being earmarked as one of the new emerging economiesm the MINT countries (Mexico, Indonesia, Nigeria, Turkey), believed to offer big economic growth in the future. According to Eylem Bostanci, contributing analyst, Euromonitor International, urbanization has led to an increase in the number of highly educated young people working as professionals in Turkey’s large cities. “This has increased consumer interest in self-grooming, especially among young people, motivating people to place more emphasis on their appearance and personal hygiene,” she comments.

The majority of beauty speciality retailers and large grocery stores are located in urban areas. As a result, urban consumers have become more familiar with products, and started to use products they had not previously purchased, boosting the penetration of even basic categories such as deodorants, body washes and shower gels. “The growing number of urban households raised demand for sophisticated products. Skin care, fragrances and color cosmetics are categories that mostly base their sales on urban consumers,” says Bostanci.

Turkish Consumers Trade Up to Masstige Masstige products are desired by Turkish consumers looking for good quality as well as affordable prices. As a result, many companies, including multinationals such as L’Oréal and Beiersdorf, have launched more sophisticated products, especially within the color cosmetics segment. Euromonitor has noted a trend for area specific products, such as Garnier Under-Eye Roll-On BB Cream

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2014 Allured Business Media.

GCI November 2014

Market Watch by L’Oréal Turkiye and Flormar Perfect Legs Foundation by Kosan Kozmetik, with companies focused on launching extensions of their existing successful brands as opposed to creating new ones. In hair care, growth was fueled mainly by the launch of new and sophisticated products designed to nourish and protect hair, such as the 2013 launches Gliss Marrakesh Oil & Coconut shampoo and conditioner by Türk Henkel. “Turkish consumers are fond of multinational products when they can afford them,” observes Bostanci. “This was partly the reason for the success of direct sellers Avon and Oriflame, whose products are regarded as foreign, thus of better quality than locals products. Although

many consumers cannot afford a foreign brand such as Dior, they can at least afford a masstige Avon or Oriflame product.”

Promotional Activities Drive Sales Discounting and promotions have been a major factor in the growth of beauty brands in Turkey. For example, L’Oréal offered a 25% discount on all its products through Watson’s beauty specialists in 2013. According to Bostanci, whereas some companies, particularly local ones, were able to increase their share through promotions, their sales often drop once they stop promotional activities. “Local

company Eurkul Dagitim Pazarlama AS decreased the prices of its nail varnish products under its Golden Rose brand to remain below the prices of the Flormar brand by the local leading player Kosan Kozmetik, its main competitor.” The growing presence of multinational beauty brands suggests confidence in the Turkish market, which will also benefit local producers and provide opportunities for growth, both at home and abroad. For more the Middle East and Turkey, in-cosmetics 2015 (Barcelona, April 14–16) trends presentations will spotlight the regions with data and analysis to highlight the challenges and opportunities. For further information on in-cosmetics, visit www.in-cosmetics.com.

Exploring Brazil: A Q&A with Philippe de Carvalho, General Manager Brazil, Coty By GCI Editors What is so attractive about the Brazilian beauty market? PC: Brazil has a very beauty-forward, young and affluent population, which provides ample opportunities for the beauty industry in the Brazilian market. Brazil is the world’s largest fragrance market and is expected to become the number two beauty market in the world in the next few years, only behind the U.S. What is attractive about the fragrance market in Brazil in particular? PC: Not only is Brazil the largest fragrance market globally, it also has a broad base of fragrance consumption. On an averagevolume basis, Brazilians use three times as much perfume as Americans do. All of these factors contribute to the fact that Brazil is a key driver in our growth strategy. What trends are currently pushing beauty and fragrance products in Brazil? PC: Along with the increasing affluence of its population, we have seen a push toward

premium product consumption in Brazil. This is amplified by the burgeoning youth population—with 100 million people between the ages of 16 and 35, Brazil boasts a fast-moving and trend-forward market. The combination of young consumers and a culture that emphasizes fragrance creates a real hunger for innovative development and marketing methods. On top of youth, the massive access for women to formal employment in recent years has been a key driver toward the increased consumption of beauty products, as this trend has allowed Brazilian women to gain more autonomy to manage the household budget. What are the most effective ways to reach Brazilian beauty consumers? PC: Our strategy is to reach the consumer where they shop. Today, 90% of fragrance purchases are not made in the classic multi-brand retail outlets (including the e-commerce platforms of retailers) but rather in mono-brand franchised stores (Boticario, as one example) or door-to-

door. Our strategic alliance with Avon, which holds the largest beauty distribution network in Brazil through its 1.5 million independent sales reps, is a major breakthrough since it will provide access to a selection of the world’s most popular fragrance brands for the first time to the vast majority of Brazilian households—at affordable prices. We also see digital as a key channel through which to connect with the Brazilian market. Young consumers are keen on digital engagement with brands, and are also more likely to use mobile devices and engage with multiple screens at once. Creative campaigns that leverage digital will drive engagement with Brazilian beauty consumers in the future. For example, Coty recently launched the #ckmeforme campaign, which uses Snapchat and Tumblr to connect the millennial generation with the CK One fragrance. We launched this campaign globally with celebrities from various countries, and have already seen huge success in interaction with millennials.

20  Market Watch    GCI November 2014

Market Watch Do trends from Brazil affect Coty’s product development and marketing in other parts of the world? If so, how?

Are there ways the Brazilian market is trending ahead of the global beauty market?

a harbinger of the global market, with great potential for the male consumer in fragrance.

PC: Leveraging the latest trends shaping consumer markets is vital to any brand, even a world-renowned and global brand like Coty. We dig deep to look for social patterns to see what’s in the air right now, gauging the trajectory of those trends and helping ensure that we aren’t just thinking ahead but also finding unexpected opportunities to transform our business. The popularity of several of our brands in Brazil has led Coty’s global teams to adapt their development agenda and take into account some of the specifics of Brazilian consumer needs (i.e., olfactive, formulations, colors, positioning). Some recent global initiatives that have been directly inspired by Brazil include our OPI Brazil color collection and Adidas Get Ready body care collection, celebrating the 2014 FIFA World Cup. Also, many of our global initiatives have to go through some degree of “tropicalization” before they can be launched successfully in Brazil, so our global teams are becoming increasingly educated about the Brazilian consumers, trends and competitive landscape.

PC: Overall, we see a greater focus on sensorial aspects of products (i.e. rich fruity fragrances, colorful packaging, rich creamy textures for body and hair care) for Brazilian consumers. Other notable trends include: • The power of natural ingredients sourced from Brazilian bio-diversity, which are also becoming popular abroad (i.e., acai, guarana, etc.); • Openness of women/men to esthetic surgery or dermatological procedures; • Hair straightening (“Brazilian sleek”).

Are there challenges in the Brazilian fragrance market, and if so, how do you address them?

In body care and hair care, Brazilian consumers are trending ahead of the global beauty market in the immense value they place on these types of products. In hair care, particularly, Brazilian women are ahead of the curve in their emphasis on conditioning. We believe the rest of the world will eventually discover what Brazil has already found in terms of developing multi-product body and hair care regimes. In the fragrance market, we see the prominence of men—who consume, by volume, 48.7% of fragrances in Brazil—as

PC: Our newly formed partnership with Avon was struck to tackle some of these challenges—such as distributing products in such a large market. This agreement increases Coty’s footprint while bolstering Avon’s fragrance offering in Brazil. Brazil is a key driver in our growth strategy, and Avon’s extensive experience in Brazil makes the company an ideal partner. Additionally, our May 2013 joint venture with Frajo International, a leading Brazilian cosmetics distributor, aims to distribute and market mass/masstige brands in the retail channel. Further, our partnership with Avon Products aims to increase both companies’ global fragrance market share, consumer loyalty and brand appeal in Brazil—our brands should be included in Avon product catalogs in time for the 2014 holiday season. Additionally, our joint venture with Frajo expanded our go-to-market capabilities in the region.

Snapshot of Color Cosmetics in South Africa Euromonitor International • Color cosmetics in South Africa posted value growth of 13% in 2013. • Consumers continue to seek products that provide added-value. • Average unit prices across most categories grow primarily due to inflationary pressures and the rising demand for valueadded products. • Revlon SA Pty Ltd continues to lead with a value share of 25%. • Color cosmetics is predicted to see a value CAGR of 7% at constant 2013 prices. There remains a strong preference among South African consumers for value-added and value for money product offerings within color cosmetics. Products that provide multiple benefits and all-in-one

solutions remain a popular choice. Highincome earners who are generally less price-sensitive tend to continue to demand more premium brands that have proven their efficiency. Color cosmetics posted value growth of 13% in 2013; relative to 2012, the category grew by approximately one percentage point in value terms. Facial makeup and nail products were the key categories that drove overall growth. The former category saw value sales grow by 8% and the latter by 12% in 2013. Facial makeup continues to be considered an everyday essential in the daily grooming regimen of many South African women; this, coupled with the extensive innovation and development

within the category continues to drive product sales. Subcategories, such as BB and CC creams, posted the most dynamic current value growth of 98% in 2013 (much of this growth may be attributed to growth from a low base). Innovation in BB creams now includes multiple benefits that range from anti-aging, oil control, sun protection and moisturization to even-toning and illuminating. Product ranges are also expanding their product color palettes to target a wider range of ethnic skin tones. However, despite this development, there still remains a gap in the market when it comes to colors that match the extensive variation of ethnic skin tones. Despite the explosion of BB and CC creams that have hit the South African

22  Market Watch    GCI November 2014

shores, it remains debatable whether consumers understand the benefits of the products. Despite the all-in-one product functionality, many consumers continue to layer their faces with moisturizers and higher sun protection factors and then top off with a BB and/or CC cream. Other categories that reflected double-digit growth in 2013 were eye liner/pencil, eye shadow, mascara, blush/bronzer/highlighter, lip gloss and nail polish. The popularity of most of these products is related mainly to their low average unit costs as well as the ease of application.

Skin Diversity Explained Though there is little and often contradictory information on skin structure and function differences between ethnic types, apart from the inherent coloration, this review provides insights into the specificities of the three main ethnic skin types. By Pascaline Criton and Olga Gracioso

I

n 2013, only 1.13% of all personal care productsa launched around the world made ethnic claims. This is not surprising, as non-white people represent the majority of the world’s population. Asians in particular represent more than half of the total. However, the current knowledge of cutaneous physiology and pathologies is based on studies performed on Caucasian skin. There are differences in skin function and reactivity based on ethnicity, which is why more and more skin care brands offer dedicated product ranges formulated to target these specific needs. The following is an overview of the physiological differences that are less visible than color and important for understanding how to best address various skin care needs.

Asian Skin Specificities Two-thirds of ethnic personal care productsa launched worldwide during 2011–2013 were intended for the Asian market. This large a Includes color cosmetics, hair care and skin care categories launches from 2011 to 2013 (Source: Mintel GNPD Beauty Innovation)

www.GCImagazine.com

Market Watch  23

Market Watch preeminence is due to the number of whitening products launched in the region, combined with the increased purchasing power of consumers in China. Beyond their well-known enthusiasm for whitening products, individuals with Asian skin face other specific concerns due inherent yellow pigmentation. Indeed, it appears that this skin type is less resistant to mechanical stress and therefore more sensitive to environmental aggressions and irritants (i.e., pollution). The reason for this is a thinner, less resilient stratum corneum, which is composed of fewer and less cohesive corneocytes than Caucasian and Black skin;1 while Asian skin has high levels of ceramides, they are not sufficient to offset the smaller number of corneocytes. Asian skin also is more sensitive to exogenous chemicals, probably due to a higher eccrine gland density, compared to other skin types.2 Regarding water content in the stratum corneum, it has been reported that Asian subjects have lower levels of Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), compared with Caucasians and African-Americans,1 which leads to reduced hydration. Skin pigmentation also dictates many of the changes in skin associated with aging. Since Asian skin is one of the fairestcolored and thus less protected by melanin, one could expect it to present evident modifications after UV exposure. However, it seems that Asian skin is less affected by skin wrinkling from photo-aging than Caucasian and African-American skin.3 This finding suggests that Asian individuals, and more particularly East Asian, have mechanisms other than melanin photoprotection to reduce the negative effects of UV irradiation on skin. Differences in facial muscle positioning, content and their movements, as well as diet, may also contribute to UV protection. Indeed, consuming fish oil can deliver a sun protection factor of up to 5.4 Another explanation could come from the dermis of Asian skin having more collagen I than other groups. Nevertheless, regarding photo-aging, it is generally admitted that Asian skin is prematurely marked by irregular pigmentation and spots.5, 6 This observation has led to tremendous progress in understanding the signaling processes involved in hyperpigmentary responses of different racial groups, notably those involving the protease-activated receptor-2 (PAR-2).7

Today, some specialized active ingredients are available to efficiently address these specific skin care needs. Měiritage by Sederma, for example, is an anti-aging active designed to answer the problems associated with Asian skin: pigment spots, dehydration and sensitivity to external aggressions. This ingredient is based on three root extracts that were selected according to the principles of Traditional Chinese Medicine.

Black Skin Specificities Findings regarding the stratum corneum of Black skin are the opposite of those for Asian skin. In general, Black skin exhibits the least TEWL and highest water content, with the lowest lipid levels.8 One study found no significant differences in corneocyte size between Black, White and Asian subjects;9 however, the same study demonstrated that the spontaneous desquamation rate was approximately 2.5 × greater in Black subjects vs. the two other groups. Due to this enhanced spontaneous desquamation, tapestripping initially revealed a weaker barrier in Black skin when only a few strips were used. With further tapestripping, though, Black skin apparently has a stronger barrier, presumably due to its increased cohesiveness.1, 10 This increased cell cohesion may also explain the reduced potential for irritation in Black skin from a variety of chemical stimuli.11 Many dark-skinned individuals are affected by ashy skin. This can be described as the physiological skin condition where light reflectance on extremely dry and flaky stratum corneum cells of dark skin results in a dull, ashy appearance. It is induced by environmental influences, in particular dry weather, and by reduced epidermal cathepsin L2 levels in subjects of colored skin.12 For these reasons, Black skin requires personal care products formulated with strong moisturizing ingredients such as Sederma’s Moist 24, which has been demonstrated to improve hydration levels by 58% after one hour, and still by 30% after 24 hours in volunteers having type IV skin (melanin index ~ 631). Other main features of Black skin are its greater pore size, increased number of apocrine and apoeccrine glands, and higher

sebum secretion,2, 3 compared with other ethnic groups. This probably accounts for the developed microbial flora present on dark skin.13 Therefore, this skin type would likely benefit highly from skin care products offering pore-size and sebumsecretion reduction, as well as control over bacterial proliferation. Last but not least, darker-pigmented skin shows dermatological signs of aging later than lightly pigmented skin— usually not until the late fifth to early sixth decade of life. However, it was also reported that hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone are amplified problems in African-American skin, compared with Caucasian.14 Bearing in mind that Black skin has the same amount of melanocytes as light skin, although much greater tyrosinase basal activity,14 dark-pigmented subjects would therefore benefit from cosmetic products to reduce tyrosinase activity, to avoid this hyperpigmentation phenomenon. Even more, skin whitening is a noticeable trend within this ethnic group—in Black Africa, more than one quarter of cosmetic products are whitening products—and some individuals do not hesitate to use harmful chemicals to lighten their skin.

White Skin Specificities As stated previously, Caucasian skin has been the most widely studied, so this overview will cover only a few main points. Caucasian is the fairest skin, so it ages more quickly. It is prone to wrinkling and sagging due to tissue degradation and as such, the anti-aging market in Western Europe and North America is the largest in terms of revenue.b Another characteristic of Caucasian skin is its sensitivity to mechanical aggressions, pollution and other exogenous agents. According to Mintel’s Global New Products Database (GNPD), between January and April 2014, sensitive skin claims represented 25% of total skin care claims in the United States, compared to 15% in 2009. The personal care market for Caucasian skin is quite mature. Today’s product trends are mainly driven by ease of use and multifunctionality, sustainability and ethics, rather than needs specific to this skin type. b

Source: Euromonitor International (2013)

24  Market Watch    GCI November 2014

Conclusion This review attempted to highlight the specificities of the three main ethnic skin types but take it for what it’s worth. There is little and often contradictory information on skin structure and function differences between ethnic types, apart from the inherent coloration. Indeed, factors such as climate, which can be different even within one country; seasonal changes; diet; lifestyles; and many others can affect skin composition, making ethnic skin types difficult to characterize. Globalization has dramatically accelerated within the last decade, making racial mixing the rule. So what are the frontiers between skin types? In any case, more specific product formulations and claims are now possible, and consumers must learn what their individual skin type conforms to, independently of their birthplace, \skin color or cultural preference—and keeping in mind that skin adapts to external circumstances. n GCI References This article is inspired from A. V. Rawlings, “Ethnic skin types: are there differences in skin structure and function?” Int. J. Cosm. Sc. 28, 79-93 (2006). 1. Hellemans, L., Muizzuddin, N., Declercq, L. and Maes, D. Characterization of stratum corneum properties in human subjects from a different genetic background. J. Invest. Dermatol. 124, 371 (2005). 2. Quinton, P.M., Elder, H.Y., McEwan Jenkinson, D. and Bovell, D.L. Structure and function of human sweat glands. In: Antiperspirants & deodorants, Chapter 2 (Laden, K., ed.), pp. 17–58 (1999). 3. Hillebrand, G.G., Levine, M.J. and Miyamoto, K. The age dependent changes in skin condition in African-Americans, Asian Indians, Caucasians, East Asians & Latino’s. IFSCC Mag. 4, 259–266 (2001). 4. Rhodes, L.E., Durham, B.H., Fraser, W.D. and Friedmann, P.S. Dietary fish oil reduces basal and UVB generated PGE2 levels in skin and increases the threshold to provocation of PLE. J. Invest. Dermatol. 105, 532–535 (1995). 5. Griffiths, C.E.M., Wang, T.S., Hamilton, T.A., Voorhees, J.J. and Ellis, C.N. A photonumeric scale for the assessment of cutaneous photodamage. Arch. Dermatol. 128, 347–351 (1992). 6. Larnier, C., Ortonne, J.P., Venot, A. et al. Evaluation of cutaneous photodamage using a photographic scale. Br. J. Dermatol. 130,167–173 (1994). 7. Babiarz-Magee, L., Chen, N., Seiberg, M. and Lin, C.B. The expression and activation of protease-activated receptor-2 correlate with skin color. Pigment Cell Res. 17, 241–251 (2004). 8. Sugino, K., Imokawa, G. and Maibach, H.I. Ethnic difference of stratum corneum lipid in relation to stratum corneum function. J. Invest. Dermatol. 100, 587 (1993). 9. Corcuff, P., Lotte, C., Rougier, A. and Maibach, H.I. Racial differences in corneocytes. Acta Derm. Venereol. (Stockh) 71, 146–148(1991). 10. Reed, J.T., Ghadially, R. and Elias, P.M. Skin type but neither race nor gender influence epidermal permeability barrier function. Arch. Dermatol. 131, 1134–1138 (1995). 11. Hicks, S.P., Swindells, K.J., Middelkamp-Hup, M.A., Sifakis, M.A., Gonzalez, E. and Gonzalez, S. Confocal histopathology of irritant contact dermatitis in vivo and the impact of skin color (black vs white). J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 48, 727–734 (2003). 12. Chen N., Seiberg M., Lin C.B. Cathepsin L2 Levels Inversely Correlate with Skin Color J. Invest. Dermatol. 126, 2345–2347(2006) 13. Rebora, A. and Guarrera, M. Racial differences in experimental skin infection with Candida albicans. Acta Derm. Venereol. (Stockh) 68, 165–168 (1988). 14. Grimes, P., Edison, B.L., Green, B.A. and Wildnauer, R.H. Evaluation of inherent differences between African American and White skin surface properties using subjective and objective measures. Cutis 73, 392–396 (2004).

www.GCImagazine.com

Market Watch  25

CONSUMER RESEARCH By Denise HericH

Custom research can be a window into your target consumers’ worlds.

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uccessful brands intimately understand their consumer. They know what turns “her” on (and off ) and connect with her on an emotional level, and custom research can be your window into her world. It’s a tool for thorough understanding of consumer desires and purchase triggers, which allows brands to win loyalty and connect with her in ways that improve marketing effectiveness, optimize product portfolios and accelerate sales. Custom research also act as a premarket litmus test that can lead to tweak a formulations based on consumer feedback, and can save brands from costly mistakes or worse: losing credibility in the market. The most cost-effective and strategically-focused online or in-person studies involve ascertaining responses from a statistically relevant number of highly targeted participants. That means for a facial moisturizer brand that sells for $50 per 3 oz. bottle, for example, surveying women who regularly shop for prestige skin care and whose income is above a certain threshold makes more sense than a blanket survey. Here are popular targeted custom research studies that an agency like TBC conducts to unveil consumer attitudes, intentions, interests and awareness. Results of these studies have proven to save the day (and sometimes the year!) for many beauty brands. 26

Consumer Research

Permissions-based (Concept) Testing

Brand Awareness, Perception & Competitors

Whether you are a prestige skin care brand known looking to expand into at-home beauty devices or an Indie darling with a disruptive cosmetics concept you want to bring to market, permissions-based testing reveals consumers’ thoughts on your intended new product or SKU expansion. Permissions-based testing reveals: • Consumer attitudes and receptivity on/ to potential product offerings; • Any barriers to purchase or usage; • Price point thresholds.

Brand awareness, perception and competitor studies can gauge brand awareness, intent to buy, buying channel preferences, pricing appropriateness, and competitor products she’s buying instead of yours and why. These studies measure: • Overall awareness of your product offering(s); • Whether your brand story resonates; • Reasons for purchasing your brand and your competitor’s; • Her emotional connection to your brand; • Where she expects to buy your product(s); • How much she expects to pay for your product(s); • Benefits she expects from your product(s).

Permissions testing results provide the green light needed to proceed, the yellow light to adjust the offering or the red light to avoid potential million-dollar mistakes. Case in point: A major consumer products company known for hardware and home improvement offerings was diversifying its portfolio with a planned launch of an intimate personal care product. Targeted research showed that not only were women receptive to trying the product made by this traditional company because of the trust factor the company had earned, respondents pinpointed their preferred SKUs in the proposed five SKU system, the price point they’d pay and where they expect to buy the product. The results enabled the company to narrow its offering and distribution channel to meet target consumers’ expectations.

This type of study is tailor-made for brands experiencing a sales plateau or decline, revealing why she’s not buying and which brands she’s buying instead. It is also frequently employed by brands that want to keep a pulse on the attitudes and preferences of their consumer to continually meet their needs, as well as those that simply want to know their consumer better. Strategic recommendations resulting from study findings are a road map for a healthy brand. Case in point: A major cosmetics company was experiencing slight sales

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GCI November 2014

decline after a strong history of year-afteryear growth. Sales distribution channels had grown, but in-store sales on average started to decline. After conducting targeted research of current customers, former customers and beauty consumers who have never bought the brand, the brand quickly understood its situation. Respondents who used to buy the brand or had never used it said they were the “old” brand with reliable but unexciting products that their mothers used. Their current consumers, they found, were largely over 55 years old. This gave the brand pause, and undertook packaging, messaging and branding changes that reinvigorated sales and enticed young consumers to the brand.

Message Testing Your brand tells its story through images, packaging and, most importantly, messaging. How your brand talks about itself, and allows her to see herself as part of your world, sets it apart from others. Message testing reveals: • Whether brand messaging resonates with the target demographic; • If the message speaks on an emotional level that will make your brand her brand; • Which parts of the message resonate and which parts might be falling flat; • Which messages most intrigue her to buy your brand and which are causing her to look for others. Is your story her story? Whether you’re a start up or an industry giant, frequent consumer surveying for messages/claims authenticity is a must. Case in point: A small new shampoo brand, sold in limited markets in the U.S., wanted to branch out into the mass market, and were preparing for a scheduled meeting with a major superstore. The brand wanted to test its messages to make sure its target consumer understood its offering, found its offering appealing, and would be willing to try it. Through a method called “concept analysis,” where respondents in an online survey highlighted parts of messages that appealed and didn’t appeal to them, the brand had its answers. It now knew which ones were its top five most compelling messages and which messages to rethink or drop. The study also revealed some confusion about the product’s main ingredient, which the brand was able to www.GCImagazine.com

rework and clarify before their big meeting and before hitting retail shelves. The brand took the survey results to the meeting with the superstore buyer to support the validity of its potential consumers’ support.

Packaging Testing The packaging is the first, and sometimes only, introduction to a product. In a glance, is it extolling your brand’s main messages and benefits? Does it cause her to reach out to touch, test and, importantly, to buy? Packaging studies are used to test existing packaging and/or to explore new package concepts that measure whether: • Packaging is easy to understand and use; • It entices her to pick it up off the shelf; • It compels purchase; • It effectively communicates product benefits; • It effectively blends form and function; • It tells the story of the brand. The physical package with a few dozen words of messaging and all-important consumer claims are pivotal brand elements that must be wisely interwoven. Case in point: A trusted beauty brand was undergoing a secondary packaging rebrand and had a number of options under consideration. The brand didn’t want to speculate about the package that consumers would like best—it wanted the opinions of its target consumers. After testing of its current consumers and the consumers it wanted to attract, the brand understood exactly which packages were clear winners, which ones enticed those new to the brand to pick up the package and try it, and which ones could remain on the drawing board. To position your brand for success, connect with consumers and to side-step as many potential pitfalls as possible, go to the source and conduct the appropriate consumer research. For “Celebrity/Doctor Brand Permissionsbased Testing” and “Advertising Testing & Awareness Benchmarking,” see this article at www.GCImagazine.com. n GCI

Denise Herich is co-founder and managing partner at The Benchmarking Company, a bi-coastal consumer research firm borne from Alisa Beyer’s The Beauty Company. The Benchmarking Company provides marketing and strategy professionals in the beauty and personal care industries with forward-thinking, need-to-know information about its customers and prospects through consumer research studies and beauty product testing.

Consumer Research  27

MARKET REPORT: BATH & BODY

Despite conditions that one would expect to have a negative impact on bath and body, the category posted its best results in a decade. What makes bath and body so resilient?

By RoB WalkeR, euRomonitoR inteRnational

IMPACT POINTS

28

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Retail value of bath and body climbed 7% (at fixed U.S. dollar prices) to reach $76 billion in 2013.

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Overall, emerging and developing markets will account for 54% of bath and body value sales in 2014, compared with 44% five years ago and 35% five years before that.

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Fast-growing bath and body markets to look out for in the next five years include Indonesia and Saudi Arabia.

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Bath and body care brand owners are cottoning on that at-home pampering is an attractive platform for product development. There is a new sensorial focus in bath and body creams, for example.

Maket Report: Bath & Body

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n the face of it, 2013 should have been a testing year for the bath and body care category. Spending power in many of its key markets—notably Brazil, the U.S., Japan and Europe—was at low ebb, and the middle class, in particular, was busy trading down across all manner of consumer goods. It managed to wave off these potentially negative pressures, however, and record its best results in more than a decade, with retail value climbing 7% (at fixed U.S. dollar prices) to reach $76 billion. What is more, there seems little sign of any significant slowing down. This year, according to the latest data from Euromonitor International, growth is on course to top 7%. All the category’s major markets are showing an upward trajectory, new product development is at a high, and investment is ramping up across emerging and developed regions alike. It begs the question, what makes bath and body care (which incorporates bath and shower products, deodorants and general-purpose body care) so resilient?

A ‘Deal Junky’ Consumer Culture It is a given that consumers trade down when spending power weakens. Look no further than Western Europe and North America, where there is a seemingly insatiable appetite for discounts and promotions. It is visible in all manner of consumer industries, from fast fashion to fast food. The middle class, it seems, has grown so used to price-cutting that it now expects it, irrespective of the time of year. This penny-pinching shopping culture is not bad news for everyone, however. Indeed, it is the key to bath and body care’s strong recent performances. Deodorant sprays, notably, have seen a huge uptick in demand as growing numbers of consumers trade down from much pricier fragrances. It is now a $10 billion a year category in its own right, with sales soaring by 11% last year. Over a five year period, global sales were up 56%, with spending in Brazil (the biggest market) more than quadrupling. It is easy to understand why deodorant sprays have developed such appeal. Their

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GCI November 2014

low price point is crucial, of course, but consumers’ perception of the difference between a fragrance and a deodorant spray has also started to blur. This, in turn, reflects a graying of category boundaries in terms of advertising and marketing activity. On top of that, most of the big name brands, both in deodorants and fragrances, now have a footprint in deodorant sprays, which is driving up its retail ubiquity.

Consumer Spending Shifts Boon for Bath & Body Nowhere is the boom in deodorant sprays more visible than in Brazil, where spending shot up by 35% in 2013, pushing the category’s total retail value to more than $2 billion. It is telling that mass fragrances grew at a third of this rate over the corresponding period, representing its weakest performance in five years. This pendulum shift from fragrances to deodorant sprays has gathered momentum as a growing number of Brazil’s new middle class looks for face-saving ways to save cash. These consumers do not want to give up what they perceive as their most prestige products—for example, smartphones or designer handbags—so less conspicuous product categories are in the firing line. The global rise of deodorant sprays is not all about economy brands, though. Most designer labels have diversified into the format, too, as an extension of their fragrance lines—Hugo Boss, Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Givenchy, Hermès, to name but a few. These brands, although positioned at substantially higher price points than mass deodorant sprays, still offer a big saving on premium fragrances. It is one of the reasons why premium fragrances are now growing globally at their slowest rate since 2009. Furthermore, designer labels have boosted the cachet of deodorant sprays, which is a big deal in markets fuelled by ‘aspirational’ consumption.

The Cocooning Factor There is evidence too that general-purpose body care and bath/shower products have also reaped an upside from a dip in consumer confidence in key markets. This is because the middle class is spending more time at home, and cutting back on trips to hair salons, spas and beauty parlours. Bath and body care brand owners are cottoning on that at-home pampering www.GCImagazine.com

is an attractive platform for product development. There is a new sensorial focus in bath and body creams, for example. And overall, consumer demand for increasingly sensorial experiences with their bath and body products is driving innovation in textures (new oil and gel formats, especially) as well as longer lasting scents, new moisturizing application formats, and cooling and smoothing effects. It is about turning at-home bath and body care into a more indulgent, spa-like experience. The margins are also healthy in these categories because the consumer agenda is less about discounting and more about a burgeoning demand for innovative products.

New Frontiers The emerging markets continue to be a key target of new investment for bath and body brands in all categories. India, notably, is a fast-growing market, and is on course to leapfrog Brazil in 2015 as the biggest in the world for bar soap. There, discounted multipacks are fuelling a big increase in demand. Brands are also pushing into formerly inaccessible rural areas, where there is huge untapped demand. Overall, emerging and developing markets will account for 54% of bath and body value sales in 2014, compared with 44% five years ago and 35% five years before that. Brazil and India have been at the frontline of this power shift, collectively fuelling 42% of the emerging markets’ incremental growth over the last decade. China, Argentina, Russia, Iran and Mexico have also been key growth engines. New fast-growing markets to look out for in the next five years include Indonesia and Saudi Arabia. To sustain strong annual growth globally, the category will need to keep innovating, though. Yes, trade down activity, household cocooning and investment in the emerging markets have collectively been a major spur to the recent high growth rates, but the challenge will be in holding onto consumers as economic conditions improve in key markets and as competition intensifies from other product categories. What bodes well is that bath and body is still only scratching the surface in terms of its segmentation potential. n GCI

Rob Walker, senior fast-moving consumer goods analyst, Euromonitor International, can be contacted at rob.walker@research7.euromonitor.com. Maket Report: Bath & Body   29

IngredIents, skIn Care

A brief exploration of skin tone, brightening mechanisms and the ingredients that may be effectively used as skin brighteners. BY SHYAM GUPTA

I

n tracking skin care trends, it is evident that there are darker-skinned consumers who seek lighter skin tone, while many with lighter skin try their best to achieve a tanned, darker tone. The consistent desire, whatever the skin tone, is for evenness of color, which includes, in part, the elimination of age-related dark spots, hyperpigmentation and other skin pigmentation disorders. Brand owners are addressing this desire with products that lighten and brighten the skin—to even the skin color regardless of the tone. Following is an overview of the skin processes that impact tone/color, and ingredients and technologies that affect those processes and, therefore, skin tone.

the “m” Words— think “mechanisms” Melanin, melanocytes, melanogenesis, melanosomes, melanocortins and MSH (melanocyte stimulating hormone)... Mother Nature created these and related mechanisms to provide humans with the skin tone that is best suited for their geography and living conditions. Briefly stated, MSH (produced in the pituitary 30

Ingredients, Skin Care

gland) stimulates the production and release of melanin in skin and hair. An increase in MSH will cause a darkening of skin. In many redheaded and very light-skinned people (those who generally do not tan well), there are variations in their hormone receptors (melanocortins), causing them to not respond to MSH. Melanin is a broad term for a group of natural pigments found in skin. Melanin is derived from the amino acid tyrosine and is produced in a specialized group of cells known as melanocytes through a process called melanogenesis. In the skin, melanogenesis occurs after exposure to UV radiation, causing the skin to visibly darken. Melanocytes insert granules of melanin into specialized cellular vesicles called melanosomes. These are then transferred into other skin cells of the human epidermis. The melanosomes in each recipient cell accumulate atop the cell nucleus, where they protect the nuclear DNA from mutations caused by the ionizing radiation of the sun’s ultraviolet rays. There are three basic types of melanin: eumelanin, pheomelanin and neuromelanin. The most common type is eumelanin, and is produced in “black” and “brown” subtypes. Pheomelanin is a

cysteine-containing red-brown polymer responsible for red hair and freckles. Neuromelanin, as its name implies, is a dark pigment that occurs in brain.1 New ingredients are constantly being developed to act on these mechanisms and alter the appearance of skin color and tone. Innovative delivery systems are required in topical formulations in order for these ingredients to reach melanocytes in skin. The efficacy of such ingredients can be significantly reduced or even lost if they penetrate too deeply or not at all into skin.

Brightening activity, Ingredients and Formulation Basics Let’s take a simplified look at which ingredients can or cannot function as skin brightening agents. Tyrosine, an amino acid with a hydroxyphenyl chemical moiety, is the melanin precursor; this leads to L-DOPA (an amino acid with a dihydroxyaryl moiety), the ultimate precursor of melanin. The chemical basis of agonists and antagonists would suggest that any compound with a dihydroxyaryl moiety

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GCI November 2014

could function as a skin brightening and/ or whitening agent. Even a hydroxyaryl (or a polyhydroxyaryl) compound can be a skin brightening agent (in view of tyrosine being a hydroxyaryl compound), provided it acts as an antagonist to tyrosine. The most potent skin whitening agent, hydroquinone (to be discussed in more detail), has a dihydroxyaryl chemical backbone. Hydroxycinnamic acid3 also has a hydroxyaryl structure, and hundreds of flavones, isoflavones and flavonoids with this chemical feature have been shown to inhibit tyrosinase. Their use, however, has been limited due to their inherent bright color and oxidative instability. Fundamentally, any antioxidant or anti-inflammatory agent can also be a skin brightening agent, as long as it can block the oxidation of L-DOPA into dopaquinone (i.e., inhibit tyrosinase). The efficacy of such ingredients can be manipulated by selecting appropriate delivery systems and use conditions. For example, hydroquinone is water-soluble, and the use of any formulation that contains hydroquinone prior to bathing or swimming can lead to significantly reduced skin brightening benefits. In this case, the nighttime use of such products can provide greater efficacy. Formulation stability is another concern. Most hydroxy- and dihydroxyphenyl compounds tend to discolor in the presence of air and/or light. This is not all that unexpected, as most antioxidants tend to produce some discoloration after they have performed their intended function (if they do not already have some inherent color, due to their molecular structure). Usually, the greater the antioxidant or skin brightening efficacy, the faster this discoloration. This leads to ever-present formulation challenges with these ingredients. Phenolic ingredients including flavones, isoflavones and flavonoids are recommended to be formulated in an acidic pH range (preferably 5.5 to 6.5), as their degradation is faster in higher pH conditions.

formation by blocking tyrosinase (tyrosinase inhibitors), or reducing existing melanin pigment (or melanin precursor intermediates with a quinone structure) to a lesser-colored species (melanin-reducing agents). Hydroquinone can function via both mechanisms—it can block tyrosinase antagonistically by replacing tyrosine on the enzyme active site, or reduce melanin color by eliminating double-bond conjugation by donating two hydrogen atoms from its dihydroxyaryl backbone. Ideally, a truly elegant new ingredient should function by the above two mechanisms without imparting any undesirable after-effects—such as skin irritation, which is caused by hydroquinone—irrespective of its highly desirable skin brightening efficacy. (In fact, the known skin irritancy of hydroquinone coupled with additional safety concerns has resulted in widespread and proposed bans on its non-physician managed topical use.) In general, the incorporation of more than

one ingredient in a formulation is more beneficial for producing the desired skin brightening effect than a single ingredient on an equal weight basis, especially if such ingredients provide their biochemical function via different pathways.

Brightened Future for the Consumer A select, non-comprehensive listing of both recently discovered and currently popular skin brightening agents is provided in Table 1. A number of these ingredients may not be commercially available at this time, making them an opportunity for ingredient manufacturers, formulators and marketers alike. An additional and substantial list of brightening ingredients is not discussed here, though well-explored in other articles.5 It is hoped that in this article, “what’s new and exciting” may lead to additional discoveries and their

New Skin Brightening Ingredients In practical terms, the ongoing search for skin brightening ingredients and technologies has been successful via the pursuit of two basic biochemical mechanisms: either preventing melanin www.GCImagazine.com

Ingredients, Skin Care

31

Ingredients, Skin Care Table 1

23. Ko et al., J Ethnopharmacol. 2014 Jan 10;151(1):38693. doi: 10.1016/j.jep.2013.10.054. Epub 2013 Nov 7

Skin Brightening Agents Dihydroxyphenylethyl glycine2 Hydroxycinnamic acid3 Phenylethyl resorcinol4 Panduratin, Isopanduratin6 Galangin7 Asterina pectinifera8 Gastrodia elata9 Hoelen extract10 p-Hydroxybenzyl alcohol11 n-Butylresorcinol12 Asiaticoside13 Metformin14 Afzelin15

Glabridin16 Polyarginine17 6-O-Cafferoylarbutin18 Acanthoic acid19 Guggulsterone20 trans-Cafferoyl stearate21 Norartocarpetin22 Eupafolin23 Catechin24 Rengyolone25 Citrus press-cakes26 Gingerol27 Octaphlorethol28

Cyclohexanediol bis-Ethylhexanoate29 Azaresveratrol30 Hydroxychalcone31 Ovatodiolide32 Gnetin C33 Raspberry ketone34 Ramalin35 Glyceollin36 Matricaria acid Methyl ester37

24. Khan et al., Postepy Dermatol Alergol. 2013 Aug;30(4):226-32. doi: 10.5114/pdia.2013.37032. Epub 2013 Aug 27 25. Kim et al., Phytother Res. 2013 Nov 19. doi: 10.1002/ ptr.5082. [Epub ahead of print] 26. Kim et al., Asian Pac J Trop Biomed. 2013 Aug;3(8):617-22 27. Huang et al., Biochem Biophys Res Commun. 2013 Aug 23;438(2):375-81. doi: 10.1016/j. bbrc.2013.07.079. Epub 2013 Jul 25 28. Kim et al., Food Chem Toxicol. 2013 Sep;59:521-6. doi: 10.1016/j.fct.2013.06.031. Epub 2013 Jun 28 29. Lim et al., Biol Pharm Bull. 2013;36(3):346-51. Epub 2012 Dec 17 30. Franco et al., Molecules. 2012 Oct 9;17(10):11816-25. doi: 10.3390/molecules171011816 31. Takahashi et al., J Oleo Sci. 2012;61(10):585-92

commercialization for skin care, to benefit marketers, formulators, ingredient suppliers and, ultimately, the consumer. n GCI References 1. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Melanin 2. Gupta, US Patent 7,777,073 3. www.lipochemicals.com/products/lipobrite-hca-4 4. products.symrise.com/life-essentials/actives/ symwhiter-377 5. S. Gupta, HAPPI, 90 (April 2001); Inside Cosmeceuticals (March 1, 2010); see also Gilbrow et al., Int J Cosmet Sci. 2011 Jun;33(3):210-21. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00616.x. Epub 2011 Jan 25 6. Yoon et al., Biol Pharm Bull. 2007 Nov; 30(11):2141-5; Lee et al., Phytother Res. 2010 Nov;24(11):1600-4. doi: 10.1002/ptr.3163. www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/ 21031615; Phytother Res. 2010 Nov;24(11):1600-4. doi: 10.1002/ptr.3163

10. Chang et al., Phytother Res. 2010 Sep;24(9):1359-64. doi: 10.1002/ptr.3123

32. Huang et al., Int J Mol Sci. 2012;13(5):6220-35. doi: 10.3390/ijms13056220. Epub 2012 May 21

11. Liu et al., Biol Pharm Bull. 2007 Jun;30(6):1135-9

33. Yanagihara et al., Biol Pharm Bull. 2012;35(6):993-6

12. Kim et al., Biol Pharm Bull. 2005 Dec;28(12):2216-9; Kolbe et al., J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2013 Jan;27 Suppl 1:19-23. doi: 10.1111/jdv.12051

34. Lin et al., Int J Mol Sci. 2011;12(8):4819-35. doi: 10.3390/ijms12084819. Epub 2011 Jul 28

13. Kwon et al., Mol Med Rep. 2014 Apr 16. doi: 10.3892/mmr.2014.2159. [Epub ahead of print]

35. Paudel et al., Phytomedicine. 2011 Nov 15;18(14):1285-90. doi: 10.1016/j. phymed.2011.06.007. Epub 2011 Jul 29

14. Lehraiki et al., J Invest Dermatol. 2014 Apr 22. doi: 10.1038/jid.2014.202. [Epub ahead of print]

36. Lee et al.,BMB Rep. 2010 Jul;43(7):461-7. www.ncbi. nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20663406

15. Murata et al., Nat Prod Commun. 2014 Feb;9(2):185-8 16. Hsieh et al., Br J Pharmacol. 2014 Feb 12. doi: 10.1111/bph.12626. [Epub ahead of print]; Simmler et al., Fitoterapia. 2013 Oct;90:160-84. doi: 10.1016/j. fitote.2013.07.003. Epub 2013 Jul 10 17. Ookubo et al., Biomaterials. 2014 May;35(15):4508-16 18. Xu et al., Nat Prod Res. 2014 Feb 5. [Epub ahead of print]. www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24498931 19. Yoon et al., Nat Prod Commun. 2013 Oct;8(10):1359-62

7. Lu et al., J Enzyme Inhib Med Chem. 2007 Aug;22(4):433-8

20. Koo et al., Int J Mol Med. 2012 Oct;30(4):974-8. doi: 10.3892/ijmm.2012.1057. Epub 2012 Jul 12

8. Jeong et al., Int J Mol Med. 2013 Jan;31(1):205-12. doi: 10.3892/ijmm.2012.1181. Epub 2012 Nov 14

21. Liang et al., Biol Pharm Bull. 2012;35(12):2198-203

9. Kim et al., J Cosmet Sci. 2013 Mar-Apr;64(2):89-98

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37. Luo et al., Biol Pharm Bull. 2009 Jun;32(6):1091-4 (All websites accessed July 31, 2014)

Shyam Gupta is a consultant in skin and hair care ingredients and topical delivery systems. He specializes in natureand-science - based formulations with enhanced efficacy and consumer desirable performance attributes. 1-602-996-9700; shyam@biodermresearch.com; www.biodermresearch.com

22. Ko et al., BMC Complement Altern Med. 2013 Dec 10;13:348. doi: 10.1186/1472-6882-13-348

GCI November 2014

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INGREDIENTS, SENSORY, BATH & BODY

Suppliers go beyond “feel” when creating unique body care ingredient technology offerings, with multisensory formulations key to today’s successful products. BY LISA DOYLE

I

n body care formulations, it’s expected that the product will go on smoothly, leave a nice after feel on the skin and, if fragranced, impart a pleasing scent. A brand should cover all these bases, but to take their products to the next level, the product should let the consumer take a multisensory journey. According to Arnoldo Fonseca, marketing manager, personal care division, Air Products, “It is always worth remembering that smell and touch are but two facets of a formulation.” Indeed, the other sensory benefits a product can deliver provide the brand with another opportunity to stand out from its competition. “Consumers not only enjoy how products feel on their skin but also enjoy the entire experience that products create,” says Madie Blaize, brand manager, Dr. Teal’s. “We believe that multisensory formulations are the key to an overall successful experience.” Suppliers share their secrets of how they’re creating ingredient technologies that go above and beyond.

Great expectations First of all, a formulation has to look appealing, and it’s even more crucial when the product comes in transparent packaging. “Visual properties of formulas are quite important because what you see, especially 34

Ingredients, Sensory, Bath & Body

in a clear bottle, is the first point of attraction,” explains Penny Antonopoulos, marketing manager, hair and body division, BASF. “In body washes, the use of pearlizers provide a visual effect and a luxurious character. BASF Care Creations has a complete range of pearlizers to deliver different effects, from pearly metallic to sparkling satin to luxury marbled.” And the way a product is expected to appear when in use can have an effect on consumer perception of efficacy. “Consumers associate cleansing effectiveness with foam quantity and quality during showering,” explains Paul Washlock, vice president, personal care division, Evonik. “Unfortunately, the presence of oils/emollients typically diminishes the foaming power of a body wash formulation. TEGO Sulfosuccinate DO 75, for example, brings the two opposite worlds together without compromising one over the other. It helps build a structured surfactant system, allowing [the incorporation of oil] in a body wash formulation while maintaining foaming properties.” The after-effect of the product is especially important for products promising to leave a healthy sheen on the skin. “Refractive indices vary between materials and surfaces; the higher a material’s refractive index is on a specified surface, the greater the reflectivity of the surface,” says Rocco Burgo, chief technology officer, INOLEX. “For this

reason, the incorporation of [ingredients such as] LexFeel Shine can impart gloss in body products, such as after-sun body sprays, in which a light sheen can accentuate the tan.”

Changing Appearances On the flip side, a touch of the unexpected can be a positive for many formulations. In several instances, the changing appearance of a formulation can provide an important visual cue for consumers. “Imagine a thick cream that can be sprayed in a fine mist, or a clear gel that can suspend colorful droplets,” says Jennifer Donahue, marketing manager, skin care division, Croda. “These visual cues offer the consumer an indication of the experience in use. Both of these effects can be achieved with our Volarest FL polymer-based product.” Coast Southwest also creates formulations designed to evolve once in use, notably its Endicare EP-430 is an absorbent acrylate polymer produced by a new microbead technology. “When the powder hydrates, it beads up,” says Jacklin Vetkoetter Hoffelt, senior marketing specialist, personal care. “The beads are spherical and have a homogeneous size distribution, excellent for skin, body and foot care products. It is also a great heat insulator for facial or body masks.”

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2014 Allured Business Media.

GCI November 2014

Changing Sensations A change in the product’s feel also can impact consumer perception. Air Products helped Jafra International achieve success when introducing a new feel experience into an existing line, thereby renewing excitement about the brand. “Jafra International included our skin conditioning Deposilk Q1 polymer in its Royal Almond brand of hand soap to provide its Latin American customers with a new, different feel profile,” says Fonseca. A touch of the unexpected can make a lasting impression on the end-user. “Our emulsifier range can provide visually interesting products that feel great on application,” says Donahue. “One example of this would be our clear ringing gel formulations that vibrate when touched. We also have many liquid dispersion polymer systems that create very thick creams that feel weightless on application.” Indeed, the removal of a feeling— resulting in weightlessness—is sometimes the most desired sensation of all. BASF’s

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newest emollient, Cetiol Ultimate, offers traditional skin care lotions an upgrade through a multisensory approach with two distinct feels as it is absorbs into the skin. Explains Katherine Spetrino, marketing manager, skin care division, BASF, “First, during application, this BASF Care Creations emollient is very light as it easily distributes over the skin. Then, as it quickly absorbs into skin, [it imparts] a distinctive ultra-lush powdery, dry after feel.”

Temperature Perhaps one of the biggest sensory experiences a product can provide is a change in temperature. “Everything is totally interactive today, and customers like a signal that a product is working,” says Hoffelt. “For example, when they open the foil pack of a masque and squeeze it into the hand, they feel a warming sensation.” Washlock agrees. “Psychologically, a sudden change in sensation, such as cooling or heating when the consumer applies a

product, can be a sign that the product is working; that sort of triggering mechanism can be a real advantage in the marketplace. “TEGOSOFT SH, for example, is a waxy emollient that provides a sensory trigger with its cooling sensation. This ingredient can be incorporated into products such as sunscreen and after sun wear to deliver a memorable ‘wow’ effect.” As always, each sensory attribute of an ingredient must align with the brand’s bigger picture. “Texture, color, shine and taste impact how a product is perceived,” says Burgo. “If an ingredient in a product has a desired look, feel, smell and taste, it is associated with luxury. If an ingredient in a product has an undesired look, feel, smell or taste, it will be associated with the [negative] sense it evokes, despite performance.” n GCI

Lisa Doyle was formerly the associate editor of GCI magazine and is a freelance writer in the Chicago area. Her work has appeared in Skin Inc. magazine, Salon Today, America’s Best, Renew and Modern Salon.

Ingredients, Sensory, Bath & Body   35

Skin Care, Ingredients

Copper and Its Role in

Collagen Development

As new peptides are embraced, information will be added to the discussion about a new use and, perhaps, usefulness of copper—a cosmetic ingredient that has been around for centuries. By Michael Q. Pugliese

I

n the development of professional skin care products, the ingredients selected by the cosmetic chemist are impacted by the discovery of new raw material technologies, and their ability to enhance or work synergistically with the reliable, proven and popular ingredients that provide desirable results. It has been said that old becomes new again, and nowhere is this more evident than in the category of peptides. As new peptides are embraced by skin care product developers, information

will be added to the discussion about a new use and, perhaps, usefulness of copper—an ingredient that has been around since the time of Nefertiti herself.

Brief History Copper was one of the first metals used in cosmetics in ancient Egypt. Copper oxide is a green compound, known as malachite, initially used as an eye shadow. Lead sulfide,

Editor’s note: This article was originally published in the June 2014 issue of Skin Inc. magazine. All rights reserved. 36   Skin Care, Ingredients    GCI November 2014 Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2014 Allured Business Media.

FREE OF: Parabens Nitrosamines, EDTA Methylisothiazolinone 1,4 Dioxane Phthalates Bronopol

631-952-0100 INFO@USNONWOVENS.COM © 2014 U.S. Nonwovens Corp. Wind Energy logo™, Artesian Glacial Aquifer Water logo™, Free Of logo™, and Made in USA with Pride logo™ are all trademarks of U.S. Nonwovens Corp. All rights reserved. 1665 1114

Skin Care, Ingredients known as galena, was used to produce the color black. There is little in the written history of cosmetics that shows copper being used for anything other than makeup, although it was used medically in the treatment of certain conditions. For hundreds of years, copper and copper compounds have been used empirically by experimenting with treatment of a variety of diseases. There is mention of the use of copper in the Ebers papyrus, one of the oldest medical manuscripts in the world. The 20th century saw no other use for copper compounds until scientists isolated a sequence of amino acids (glycyl-L-histadyl-L-lysine (GHL-Cu)—a peptide) in a human serum that bound copper. In 1973, Loren Pickart, PhD, who was studying the biochemistry and physiology of aging, found that the copper peptide GHL-Cu was abundant in young people while present in much lower levels in older people. Throughout the next 10 years, he worked to establish many favorable properties of the copper tripeptide. In 1983, Pickart applied for a number of patents in the area of wound-healing and hair growth. An interest in wound-healing was soon tied to the role of copper in the synthesis of both elastin and collagen.

Collagen Synthesis The synthesis of collagen is quite complex, but a key enzymatic reaction involves copper and the enzyme lysyl oxidase. Lysyl oxidase is an extracellular copper enzyme that catalyzes the formation of aldehydes from lysine residues in collagen and elastin precursors. Being highly reactive, they undergo spontaneous chemical reactions with other lysyl oxidase-derived aldehyde residues, or with unmodified lysine residues. This action forms the basis of the crosslinking of collagen and elastin, an essential process for the stabilization of collagen fibrils, and for the integrity and elasticity of mature elastin. There are other complex crosslinks, some formed in collagen (pyridinolines derived from three lysine residues) and some in elastin (desmosines derived from four lysine residues) that differ in structure. The absence of crosslinking results in lathyrism, which is characterized by poor bone formation and strength, hyperextensible skin and weak ligaments. Collagen, the main structural protein of connective tissue, is the most abundant tissue in animals—including humans—comprising 25–35% of whole-body protein content. The name “collagen” comes from the Greek kolla meaning “glue” with the suffix -gen denoting “producing.” The fibroblast is the most common cell that creates collagen. Collagen occurs in many places throughout the body. Although 28 types of collagen have been identified, more than 90% of the collagen in the body is type I. The five most common types of collagen are: • Collagen I—found in skin, tendons, vascular ligatures and organs, is the main component of the organic part of bone, while calcium is the mineral part; • Collagen II—the main component of cartilage; • Collagen III—a reticulate, commonly found alongside type I; • Collagen IV—essential for binding the epidermis to the dermis as it forms the basal lamina, the epithelium-secreted layer of the basement membrane; and • Collagen V—found on and in cell surfaces, hair and placenta.

38   Skin Care, Ingredients    GCI November 2014

Copper Peptides What does copper actually do on the skin? Copper, in the form of bound peptides, has been available to the cosmetic industry for many years. Initially a bipeptide, it was marketed as an anti-aging product in facial creams. The goal of the copper peptide is to stimulate collagen and elastin formation. It does this by increasing the enzyme lysyl oxidase. As long as the compound remains bound to the amino acids, it would appear that this preparation would be essentially devoid of free-radical activity. A newer version of the copper peptide, containing only two amino acids—lysine and histidine—is now also available: Neodermyl. Many in vitro and in vivo studies for this product have shown it to be effective in reducing visible signs of aging. Induchem, the ingredient’s supplier, makes the claim that Neodermyl “re-energises senescent fibroblasts by supplying them with an activated source of cellular energy.” If this claim can be proven, the pathway of research using peptide biology will gain significant advances, and will surely continue to be a promising avenue in the treatment of aging skin. With cosmetic formulations containing naturally derived herbs, vitamins and oils, a topically applied active ingredient is only as good the vehicle through which it is delivered, the use of its correct form and the effective concentration.

Copper as a Transition Metal In the body, free copper ions are not normally available, but are bound tightly to serum albumin, or incorporated into the coppercarrying compound known as caeruloplasmin. The tendency of copper ions to bind readily to amino groups of proteins would seem to indicate that proteins will thus prevent copper iondependent hydroxyl ion formation. Actually, the free-radical generation is not prevented, but rather localized to the site of the copper ions, and the protein molecule itself will be damaged by the hydroxyl (OH) radicals—among the most destructive. Histidine residues have been particularly implicated as sites of copper iondependent protein degradation. In fact, the effect of complexing

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catalytic metal ions on OH radical production is not readily predictable. It is interesting that chelating agents may both promote and inhibit metal ion-dependent OH radical formation, depending on a number of factors. These may include the solubility of the complex; the redox potential of the metal and, consequently, its ability to be reduced by oxygen; and finally, whether or not it has a free coordination site, enabling it to catalyze peroxide breakdown.

New Shine to the Market The anecdotal therapeutic uses of copper combined with the proven clinical effectiveness of copper peptides allow a potential for this ancient beautifying metal to bring a new shine to the professional skin care marketplace. n GCI GENERAL REFERENCES B Alberts, Molecular Biology of the Cell, Garland Science, New York (2002) K Csiszar, Lysyl oxidases: a novel multifunctional amine oxidase family, Prog Nucleic Acid Res Mol Biol 70 1–32 (2001) RC Siegel, JC Fu, et. al., Collagen cross-linking: lysyl oxidase dependent synthesis of pyridinoline in vitro: confirmation that pyridinoline is derived from collagen, Biochem Biophys Res Commun 108 4 1546–1550 (Oct 1982) RT Dean, A mechanism for accelerated degradation of intracellular proteins after limited damage by free radicals, Febs Letters 220 278–282 (1987) JMC Gutteridge, Antioxidant properties of caeruloplasmin towards iron- and copperdependent oxygen radical formation, Febs Letters 157 1 37–40 (June 1983) E Graf, JR Mahoney, RG Bryant and JW Eaton, Iron-catalyzed hydroxyl radical formation. Stringent requirement for free iron coordination site, J Biol Chem 25 259 6 3620–3624 (Mar 1984) HHA Dollwet and JRJ Sorenson, Historic uses of copper compounds in medicine, Trace Elem Med 2 80–87 (1985)

Michael Q. Pugliese became the third-generation CEO of Circadia by Dr. Pugliese, Inc. in 2006. He is a licensed esthetician and a member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, regularly attending its educational events to stay on the cutting-edge of new product development.

Skin Care, Ingredients   39

E-mail Marketing

How TO Maximize Your E-mail Marketing Efforts E-mail marketing remains the most effective way to turn potential consumers into actual consumers.

I

s e-mail marketing dead? Not by a long shot. In fact, it remains the most effective way to turn potential consumers into actual consumers. In recent years, most have turned their focus to social media marketing, putting more value on likes, retweets and follows than on e-mail subscribers. Although Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram are great tools for engaging an audience, they can also be unpredictable. Just look at the number of algorithm changes Facebook has implemented over the course of the last year. E-mail marketing puts control back in marketers’ hands and provides a direct line of communication with their audience. When done correctly, it can also be a great way to build deeper relationships with consumers.

Choosing an E-mail Platform There are a number of great, easy-to-use e-mail platforms out there. There are free platforms, and many paid options are inexpensive.

Look for a tool that offers tracking and responsive design. Tracking allows you to test different components of e-mail campaigns to see which are most effective, and responsive design will optimize your e-mail for mobile viewing.

Build your list Gaining access to an inbox starts with a strong call-to-action, a compelling reason to sign up and reassurance that you will not spam them. Some examples of phrasing include: • Sign up to download the Ultimate Skin Care Guide for Men; • 6 Ways to Get Youthful Skin: Free e-mail series; and • Sign up to receive exclusive discounts and the latest news. Provide multiple opportunities to sign up. Don’t limit your sign-up form to just one page on your website—consider placing it throughout your site, at the bottom of your blog posts, in your e-mail signature

line and on your Facebook page. You might also set up a tablet at your check-in counter with a sign-up form. And don’t hide the sign-up button. Make it easy and obvious, and be sure it’s eyecatching. And most importantly, always get permission before adding anyone to your list.

Create a Compelling E-mail One of the most important steps is to create a plan for e-mail marketing efforts. How often will it be sent? Who is your audience? What type of voice and tone will the e-mail have? How will value be provided? What results do you want and how will you measure them? Your e-mail should focus on providing value. This is the only way to ensure it will stand out in the sea of others and stay out of the trash bin. A good e-mail campaign will deepen your relationship with your audience by offering a distinctive voice and delivering the quality content your subscribers want to share with others. Engaging e-mails include the following.

Editor’s note: This article is an edited version of an article that was originally published in the October 2014 issue of Skin Inc. magazine. All rights reserved. 40  E-mail Marketing    GCI November 2014 Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2014 Allured Business Media.

By Beth Cochran • Subject line—Keep it punchy. Much like blog headlines, the goal is to engage the reader and compel them to open the e-mail. Typically, subject lines with numbers, how-to’s or questions perform well. • Content—This can be inspirational, informative, or an exclusive offer or discount. What can you offer your subscribers they won’t get elsewhere? • Design—Determining which design works best for your business will require some testing. However, be sure to make use of white space. Keep it clean, simple and easy to navigate. • Call-to-action—Always include a call-to-action, such as “Follow us on Instagram.” • Make it mobile friendly—Chances are, a large majority of your subscribers will be checking e-mail on their phone. Make sure your design is responsive. Today, most mail platforms automatically take care of this for you. Bottom line—tailor your e-mail content to your audience and offer high-value pieces. When you approach e-mail marketing in this way, you will establish trust, deepen relationships with consumers and create new ones. n GCI

Beth Cochran is the founder of Wired PR, a public relations and content marketing firm, and www.successlabr.com, an online source for entrepreneurs to achieve greatness.

www.GCImagazine.com

E-mail Marketing  41

Regulation, FRagRance

Consumer confusion, the rise of sustainability and the appearance of retailer standards.

BY JACK CORLEY

A

press conference announcing the debut of the Natural Products Association’s (NPA) standard and seal for personal care products—the first natural standard for beauty and personal care products in the United States—took place at 9:00 a.m. on May 1, 2008, at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in New York. It was an event that few knew of, and perhaps fewer embraced. A panel of industry representatives that had worked on the development of the standard with Mike Indusrsky, one of the standard’s architects and a key advocate, attended the press conference, including representatives from the NPA, Aubrey Organics, Burt’s Bees, California Baby, Farmaesthetics, Trilogy Fragrances and Weleda, as well as some influential public figures. The purpose of this standard, as defined that morning by Indursky, “is to protect the integrity of the term ‘natural’ as it is applied to personal care products such as lotions, shampoos and cosmetics. Companies that could meet the NPA’s high standard for use of the term natural on personal care products would be able to be certified and use a seal easily identifiable to consumers in the labeling and marketing of their products.”

The motivation behind the standard was as a survey conducted at that time by research firm Yankelovich, which showed that while the public was more interested in natural personal care products than ever before, they were confused about what constituted a “natural” product. Key findings included: • Seventy-eight percent of American women thought natural personal care was currently regulated or didn’t know if it was, while 97% thought it should be. • Two thirds of American women thought a personal care product labeled “natural” should contain at least 95% natural ingredients. The NPA standard and seal was introduced as a way to mitigate this confusion and enable consumers to easily identify those products that meet a standard for natural personal care. That was six years ago, and much has changed over time. The “green movement” has given birth to the “sustainability” movement, and while “natural” is an important part of the sustainability movement, it is not the only aspect in which companies and industries are interested. In fact, many organizations that were fighting the green movement just a few

Editor’s note: This article was originally published in the October 2014 issue of Perfumer & Flavorist magazine. All rights reserved. 42

Regulation, Fragrance

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2014 Allured Business Media.

GCI November 2014

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Regulation, Fragrance short years ago, are now leading the charge for sustainability, realizing that there is profit to be made in being environmentally responsible. Given this evolution, what has been the impact of the NPA standard on the personal care industry since its introduction?

Natural by the Numbers Since its introduction in 2008, there have been 758 personal care products and 480 ingredients certified by the NPA. While this may seem impressive, it is necessary to look at the number of new natural/perceived natural personal care products that have been introduced in the U.S. in that time. Thousands of these products have been launched, yet few have embraced the NPA or other natural standards as a method of validation and natural authentication. Why? The standards are designed to rid personal care products of perceived toxic and dangerous chemicals and it is difficult, for example, to manufacture a hair care product without an anionic surfactant like sodium lauryl sulfate, which is deemed unsafe by the NPA. In addition, the NPA standard does not permit formulations containing phthalates, fragrance materials that have been extracted with petroleum-based solvents, as well as any synthetic aromatic ingredients.

Other U.S. Natural Personal Care Standards The only other truly U.S.-based personal care standard, NSF 384, is still being formed. NSF 384 may well compete with the NPA personal care standard. Allan Rose, standards development liaison for NSF, says of this American National Standards Institute (ANSI) standard, “It is still our goal to have the process complete and the standard published by the next [Natural Products Expo West] meeting in March 2015.” The NPA will have to decide whether to continue to go it alone or team up with NSF. The jury is still out as to what direction the organization will go. While there is fundamentally nothing wrong with having more than one U.S.-based personal care standard, as it brings exposure to an industry inundated with “greenwashing,” it does tend to confuse consumers. There have been discussions centered on the

larger-scope subject of “sustainability,” i.e. does it make more sense to focus on a sustainability standard initiative for personal care which would encompass natural? This is being investigated and reviewed by the NPA, according to Dan Fabricant, CEO and president of the NPA. Unlike the National Organic Program (NOP), which falls under the auspices of the U.S. Department of Agriculture and lays out a fairly rigorous standard that includes provisions for organic personal care, the U.S government has shied away from getting involved with the natural personal care controversy. In the opinion of this author, such a standard should be developed and administered by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), but the FDA has remained noncommittal in defining the term “natural” as it relates to personal care products. It is thus left to nongovernmental organizations and other entities to develop their own interpretation. Frustrated retailers such as Whole Foods have taken it upon themselves to define their own prohibited ingredient lists in personal care products. The company’s body care quality standards state, “We encourage our vendor partners to use plant-based and naturally-derived ingredients, pure essential oil fragrances, gentle preservatives and non-petroleum ingredients.” Actually, from a marketing perspective, it is quite brilliant for retailers to create their own premium standards as it helps foster brand identity and convey to their customers how serious they are about health, safety and wellness. Other retailers are concerned about litigationa and have asked brands to remove references to “natural” from front panels altogether. These and other issues illustrate just how difficult united natural personal care standards can be—and why one may be necessary to support industry growth. n GCI a Several lawsuits have been filed challenging the brand and the retailer about “truth in labeling” with respect to the “natural” authenticity of certain personal care products. For example, phthalates and purported endocrine disruptors like 1,4-dioxane have been found in some products claiming to be natural.

Jack Corley, Custom Essence Inc. Naturals Division; jcorley@customessence.com

44  Regulation, Fragrance    GCI November 2014

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Marketing, SaMpling

Giving away free samples of products can actually be more beneficial than discounting. BY JEANA DELANO Editor’s note: This article is an edited version of an article that was originally published in the October 2014 issue of Skin Inc. magazine. All rights reserved.”

M

arketing skin care products is often challenging—there are so many competing choices in today’s oversaturated marketplace. Using free samples to promote skin care products can boost sales tremendously. There is always reluctance to giving away free samples. Some may think giving away samples is too expensive. There also may be concerns that the cost of sampling will not generate more revenue in product sales. Giving away free samples of products can actually be more beneficial than discounting. Psychologists have explained how shoppers who have received freebies are more likely

46

Marketing, Sampling

to buy products that have been given away as samples—and even become loyal customers. They have been given something for nothing, and now they feel obligated to reciprocate by buying the product.

Who Doesn’t like to Receive a Free Sample? People love to try new products—especially if they are free. Product samples are often referred to as “sensory samples.” Sensory samples are one of the best ways to engage consumers and motivate them to buy. Consumers become more connected with a product when they are able to see, feel and smell it. In turn, they will share their experiences with their friends about the products. People like to spread the word about their favorite skin care products by talking, tweeting, posting and reviewing.

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2014 Allured Business Media.

GCI November 2014

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Marketing, Sampling

Consumers

become more connected with a product when they are able to see, feel and smell it.

And free product sampling can help turn ordinary consumers into raving fans. It’s all about exposure—getting product into the hands of consumers. Beauty companies spend billions of dollars on marketing every year through sampling. They know that a gift-with-purchase will encourage consumers to buy products they may have been on the fence about. Everyone loves something for free. These free gifts allow consumers to try products risk-free and, at the same time, create brand awareness. A survey carried out by the Product Sampling Council found that a whopping 92% of consumers said they would buy a new product if they liked it after receiving a sample. And, according to a Nielsen report, 70% of consumers say that recommendations are the No. 1 factor influencing their purchasing decisions. In another survey conducted by Brand Share, nearly 60% of consumers were not aware of certain products before they had received a sample. This was true even for some products that had been around for several years.

In addition to distributing samples, be aware of some key factors in getting the most return on your investment. • Samples should complement consumers’ needs. Giving a consumer with dry skin an acne cleanser is not going to generate a sale. • Samples should contain enough product to be useful.. • Provide clear instructions on how to use the sample properly. • Inform consumers about the benefits of using the product. • Include instructions on how to purchase the full size product. Product sampling gives consumers the opportunity to try new products risk-free. It is one of the best ways to create brand awareness and generate sales. n GCI

Jeana Delano is an esthetician and consultant based in Dallas.

48  Marketing, Sampling    GCI November 2014

PACKAGING TRENDS

The first goal in strategizing and designing packaging identity should be to authentically reflect the brand’s core identity, and cross-checking the strategy across relevant trends can help inform whether to follow or contrast trends.

By Aniko Hill

IMPACT POINTS

50

n

A product’s lifespan can factor into the delicate balancing act of whether or not to follow a trend. If a package needs to stand the test of time, going against or ignoring current trends and authentically reflecting the brand essence is always a best bet.

n

Eco-friendly, sustainable packaging has evolved visually from expected earthy materials into more decorated, beautiful expressions of nature.

n

An abstract package design can be derivative of a more tangible concept, with the overall goal to evoke a specific emotional response.

n

Technology and science themes have made their way into the beauty with packaging identities inspired by more structured, pattern-driven illustrations that are mathematical in nature.

Packaging Trends

I

n brand development work, a trend can have a range of interpretations and a varying degree of importance. It can be thought of as something meaningful, as a general direction of change or something frivolous like following what is currently popular or fashionable. Whichever way you look at it, all packaging is susceptible to evolving trends. Brands can intentionally follow trends with a novelty or seasonal product offering or can unintentionally fall into a trend. The first goal in strategizing and designing packaging identity should be to authentically reflect the brand’s core identity and personality, and cross-checking the strategy across relevant trends can help inform whether the brand wants to follow or contrast them in order to best connect with its target consumer. Sometimes following a trend can make a brand look fresh and current; other times, the product can get lost in the crowded marketplace. The product’s lifespan can also factor into this delicate balancing act. If a company is developing a limited product offering, following current fads may be appropriate. But if a package needs to stand the test of time, going against or ignoring current trends and authentically reflecting the brand essence is always a better bet. As it is often the first interaction a consumer has with a brand or product and can influence purchase decisions, packaging

should be functional, convey a story and personality, and emotionally connect. Many companies, particularly those without extensive advertising budgets, invest more in packaging design than in any other brand touch point. Throughout the last 10 years of studying beauty industry trends, I have seen fads come and go, with some evolving into larger movements over time. In this article, I’ve chosen to focus on newer trends as both straightforward observations and more thoughtful insights on brand identity expression through packaging.

Trend #1: Natural 2.0 Eco-friendly, sustainable packaging may have started out as a trend, but is now a movement that has accelerated over the past decade. It follows a general cultural shift in thinking and in consumer demand. Typically, brands with sustainable packaging reflect the natural-based formulas or eco-friendly products. Recently, this has evolved visually from the expected earthy materials into more decorated and beautiful expressions of nature. It mirrors the shift in attitude on the consumer side—since women are expecting more responsibility in beauty products, the focus has shifted to creating beautiful packages that happen to also be more

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2014 Allured Business Media.

GCI November 2014

PACKAGING TRENDS responsibly produced as opposed to hitting customers over the head with an overtly earthy look. This makes for an interesting contrast between materials, finishes and colors. Tarte is one of the most well-known natural-based cosmetic lines, with a philosophical emphasis on creating healthy products with beautiful packaging that is refillable, reusable and sustainable when possible, and Tarte has expanded this approach beyond its specialty lines into the everyday products. For the Glamazon Pure Performance 12-hour Lipstick, a bamboo component is contrasted with colorful tribal prints that reflect the color of the lipstick inside. Likewise, Physician’s Formula Bamboo Wear, a line of makeup and accessories with formulas that contain Bamboo Silk, also utilizes contrasting deco with a bright green bamboo pattern printed on top of the refillable bamboo compacts. Maine Beach uses kraft paper in much of its packaging, which is generally considered eco-friendly due to lack of bleaches and processing and also earthy in feel. For its organic olive oil french milled soap, the packaging design contrasts the otherwise bland material with beautiful, elaborate traditional typography, including formal scripts with decorative flourishes. Stila has also used kraft paper for many years. The material doesn’t necessarily reflect the products but rather serves as a contrast to the other more slick color cosmetics lines. Stila also uses contrasting colors and materials to create a unique packaging identity—for example, the Color Me Glossy Lip Glaze set has metallic foil stamps and colorful printing, a more unique treatment of traditional kraft paper printing. Another example of the use of contrasting or unexpected material combinations, L’Occitane’s Verbana Refreshing Towelettes are packaged in an unprinted metallic material, with kraft-style paper serving as the resealable tab area. The contrast between the industrial, shiny metallic finish and the earthy matte finish makes for an interesting juxtaposition. Since the towelettes are 100% biodegradable, the stripped down material choices lend themselves to communicating an eco-friendly message.

Trend #2: Abstract Art Since the beginning of the modern graphic design era, fine art has had a direct influence on commercial design, and designers have 52

Packaging Trends

either taken literal or indirect inspiration from abstract artists. The abstract art beauty packaging identity trend is purely visual and focused on primary and secondary package decoration—as opposed to the structure or form of the packaging—and typically utilizes abstract graphics that are evocative of a mood, conceptual in nature or purely decorative. Urban Decay takes inspiration from fine art across many of the brand touch points, with an overall expressive and edgy brand personality that comes through in its packaging designs. The Electric Palette is decorated with an abstract, brightly colored floral print that references a watercolor painting technique. The Melt Down Makeup Remover has an expressive black splatter element as the focal point of the primary packaging, similar to ink splatter artists that were originally inspired by fine artist Jackson Pollock. An abstract package design can also be derivative of a more tangible concept, with the overall goal to evoke a specific emotional response. In the packaging system for tanning product brand Kissed by Mii, the abstract jewel-toned organic forms reminiscent of artist Georgia O’Keeffe reference the marine materials unique to the brand, with touches of gold to reflect sun-kissed skin, according to the packaging’s creative director. Although the designs are not literal, the packaging exudes a distinct organic feel that is unique in the tanning category. Oribe’s Dry Texturizing Spray also utilizes an abstract graphic to communicate a product feature, and the packaging is covered with gold gestural lines that mimic the texture of hair. Using a more decorative and modern approach, Method’s 2014 summer collection utilizes modern, abstract shapes arranged in an artistic pattern with three varying colors and designs. The product scents are inspired by frozen treats, and the designs and colors of the Brambleberry Gelato and Orange Ginger Sorbet SKUs, as examples, have a fresh, clean look and feel that reflects the whimsical and refreshing fragrances inside.

Trend #3: Gradient This visual trend is one of the simplest of all the categories explored in this article. The packages in this trend have simple, light-todark or color-to-color gradations as their primary identity. This visual effect is seen

on both primary and secondary packaging, as well as on components that tend to be clean and minimal in form. In the case of Sephora’s Pantone Universe line, the design takes on a deeper conceptual meaning as the simple gradation design reflects the idea of Pantone colors’ ability to be fine tuned by screening back the ink. This idea also has a direct connection to makeup application, where color can be built up with varying degrees of application. In some examples, the gradation seems to be simply an expression of understated sophistication. Shiseido’s Ultimune Power Infusing Concentrate, The Body Shop’s White Musk Smoky Rose Fragrance Mist, Oribe’s Gold Lust Transformative Masque and the Cartier de Lune fragrance all have simple gradations with minimal typography that communicate a premium aesthetic. When created from multiple colors, gradations can also take on a more artistic feel. New York womenswear and accessories brand Proenza Schouler’s limited edition collection for MAC is produced with a rainbow-hued metallic finish and simple logo placement, referential of modern artist Mark Rothko.

Trend #4: Food This is an ongoing trend, but worth covering as there are so many new and fun examples on the marketplace today. The packages in this trend feature foodinspired designs that reflect the fragrance or ingredients of the product inside. The overall feeling tends to be fun and novel, with playful interpretations of food that are both visual and form-based. Bath and body brand Cucina was one of the pioneers in food-inspired product packaging, with the inspiration coming directly from the Italian translation of the name meaning, kitchen. In addition to illustrations of food, many of the primary packaging components take inspiration from food packaging such as olive oil and cheese. Bath & Body Works has been using foodinspired designs to illustrate its scents for many years, with the packaging evolving to more direct and playful food references in recent iterations. The Market Peach and Pumpkin Pecan Waffles soaps and lotions are named like menu items, and are visually decorated like food packaging, featuring prominent food photography as the focal point. The use of food visuals can GCI November 2014

also be more illustrative and tongue-in-cheek. For example, Spanish bath and body brand Etnia’s Happygel line has a clean and modern packaging identity with a simple logo and typography, with vintage etched style black and white food illustrations that illustrate each scent in a whimsical way. More recently, food inspiration has worked itself into the primary packaging structures with beauty components that literally look like food items. Japanese skin care line Tony Moly features primary components shaped like tomatoes, oranges and peaches that reference the extracts used in the formulas. This trend is also seen in cosmetics. Too Faced’s Chocolate Bar Eye Shadow Collection has primary packaging molded and colored to look like a chocolate bar, and secondary packaging that references traditional chocolate packaging.

Trend #5: Embellished This grouping of products tend to be simple in form but have a special touch added that makes them feel special or premium. These packages are mostly for high-end or boutique brands and for products that have a longer shelf life and act as a home accessory. The embellishments can be as simple as a tip-on, built into the structure or in the design itself with elaborate typography or ornamentation. This trend takes place in both primary and secondary packaging. Until recently, cosmetics primary packaging has maintained a level of starkness with only brand logos included on component decoration. Today, more and more decorated primary components are seen in the marketplace. Examples of this trend occur more frequently in limited edition collections—for example, Sharon & Kelly Osbourne’s MAC Summer 2014 collection features each of their signatures on colored lip, eye, and tool components. Makeup Forever’s La Boheme line is also a departure from the brand’s normally simple primary packaging decoration—for example, the lipsticks have ornamental printing on the base and a larger, colorful logo with a flower on the cap. Tarte has always used more decorated components as part of its packaging identity, which seems to have expanded over the past few years. In its Amazonian Butter Lipstick, components are decorated with colorful botanical-inspired patterns on both the cap and the base, with unique color ways for each shade. In fragrance, embellishments are almost a staple to designing packaging, as the product lives in the consumer’s house for an extended period of time. For this reason, the packaging is designed to feel like a home or fashion accessory. In fragrance components, the embellishments tend to be built in to the structure of the package, as seen in the gold, lace-like honeycomb pattern on the cap of Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria or the fun dimensional flowers on Marc Jacobs Daisy Dream. In some instances, embellishments are tippedon for a touch of personality. For example, for Victoria’s Secret’s Noir Tease fragrance, the fishnet stocking pattern on the primary component is mirrored with real lace at the top of the bottle, with a vintage dispenser built into the component. MOR’s Correspondence collection folds the idea of production embellishments into the concept of the packaging design. For example, the soap packaging is designed to look like a vintage letter, with handwriting, stamps, a dimensional seal and a thin ribbon tied around the packaging. Sometimes embellishment can be in the form of expressive or elaborate graphics. Men’s grooming line Bayolea utilizes highly ornamented, vintage style labels on its components to seamlessly mix www.GCImagazine.com

Packaging Trends

53

PACKAGING TRENDS typefaces, flourishes, illustrations and line work. The design has almost no color, as the minimal black-and-white color palette uses just a lime green accent for a modern touch. The packaging also has a simple tipped-on ribbon on some of the components to give the design a premium finishing touch.

Trend #6: Technical Technology and science themes have made their way into the beauty industry with packaging identities that are inspired by more structured, pattern-driven illustrations that are mathematical in nature. This is mostly a graphic trend when it comes to the packaging identity, but can be seen in primary packaging structures as well. Many of the identities here tend to be minimal overall with limited color palettes, and many of the identities have scientific, pattern-driven graphics that loosely reference the product inside. For example, natural honey-based product line Artisan Bee features a hexagonal pattern that borrows from a honeycomb structure. The design for Cella Paramedical’s NanoCellulose Facial & Eye Mask also takes inspiration from the properties of the product—the black-and-white, technical illustrations resemble biological elements such as fingerprints and DNA. The result is a chic, minimal identity that exudes quality and dependability. Aveda’s Control Force has a technical pattern similar to graph paper as its identity, which mirrors the result of the product benefits. The Body Shop’s Seaweed Purifying cleanser has thick and thin technical lines that visually reference the flowing lines in seaweed. Many beauty identities today are also inspired by modern digital technology. The Basics, a minimal line of beauty essentials, has a pixel identity graphic inspired by 1980s arcade games, a retro nod to current computer technology. DKNY’s MYNY fragrance also has pixel-inspired graphics on the primary packaging, with a pixelated heart graphic in the “MYNY” identity. The primary packaging is a reference to the New York skyline, but also looks like dimensional pixels.

Trend #7: Photographic In packaging design, there is a tendency to stay away from photographic packaging 54

Packaging Trends

identity solutions for practical reasons, as they have less longevity as fashion and trends evolve. For this reason, photographic beauty packaging identities are more rare than graphic-driven packages. However, currently, there are several fragrances that are using advertising-driven photographic images on their secondary packaging, which makes for a compelling brand presentation at retail. Often the packages have two front panels, one clean and typographic and one photographic. This allows products to be arranged more freely and billboards created for the fragrance at retail. Mont Blanc Legend utilizes a black and white portrait style photograph of a rugged man on the packaging, also seen in the product ads. Elie Saab’s L’eau Couture fragrance also features the advertising image on the packaging, depicting an elegant female model wearing a couture dress in a cityscape. Thierry Mugler’s Alien fragrance carton features a highly stylized photographic illustration of an exotic, fantastical woman. There are also examples of photographydriven identities seen in primary packaging. R+Co has a playful line of products that utilize photography-driven imagery that ties into the product name in a clever way. For example, Death Valley Dry Shampoo shows a dry desertscape, the Bel Air Smoothing Conditioner has an over-the-top chandelier and Mannequin Styling Past features a picture of mannequins. Although the identities sound bland in description, the photos are highly stylized, desaturated and almost illustrative in style, which in itself makes for an interesting visual identity. The rest of the graphics are black and white with straightforward, clean typography. n GCI

ANIKO HILL is the creative director of The Kitchen Collaborative, which she founded with a determination to innovate the traditional creative business methodology. Her distinct creative and professional vision has produced awardwinning work with quantifiable results for clients in categories including health & beauty, fashion, home products and pet care. Her work creating premium lifestyle brands for the sophisticated female market has been featured in top industry publications such as Print, CPC Packaging, and HOW magazines. Hill is also an expert editorial contributor, writing for trade publications such as GCI, Package Design and Beauty Packaging magazines. Graphic Design USA recognized Hill as one of the People to Watch in 2008.

GCI November 2014

The WHOLE

n by Becky Donner

Package

Leveraging Consumer Research To Fuel Packaging Innovation Through understanding the consumer, every aspect of packaging can be elevated to help brands win.

T

oday’s consumer marketplace is a more challenging environment to thrive in than ever before. Educated consumers are constantly bombarded with an abundance of choice. Tastes are constantly changing. Consumers are demanding. And that means marketers have to demand more from themselves in order to gain the shopper’s attention and favor. The truth is, it’s no longer enough to just be noticed. Your product has to stand out— not to mention follow through on whatever promise it’s made to the consumer. As Procter and Gamble likes to say, it comes down to the famous two moments of truth. First, you have to win on the shelves. Consumers have to see your package in the store and say, “I want that.” However, the story can’t end there. The second moment comes when they take the product home and use it. The functionality of the product must be well thought out and designed to create the best experience possible. This is what keeps consumers coming back. This is how marketers win in the end.

The Value of Research Brand owners, however, do not have to navigate these waters on their own. For decades, TricorBraun and other suppliers have performed consumer research in order to gain insights into the needs, wants and behaviors of end users. Today, leveraging this research is more important than ever before. By looking inside the mind of the consumer and gleaning a picture of how and why they use products, we are able to elevate every aspect of packaging design to help companies win on the shelf and at home. By utilizing the insights and experience gained through this consistent mining of human behavior, we are able to push packaging beyond the expected. The value of

understanding an ever-changing consumer landscape is enormous. When we collaborate with marketers, it’s not simply to execute what is asked for. It is to help take packaging solutions to another level, to stimulate growth, brand loyalty and ultimately give consumers what they’re looking for—all the while celebrating the wins that fuel the brand owner’s sales.

Consumer Mining In order to make meaningful discoveries that lead to insightful innovation, there’s a lot of work that needs to be done. We want to look at the consumer from all angles. We want to delve into the way they live, as well as what they want and need out of the products they use. We want to get as robust a picture of the consumer’s desires and behaviors as possible. Only then can we create designs that push packaging forward. So we start by understanding the consumer’s behavior: how they think, how they act, why, what’s important to them. This will give us a better understanding of when, where and how they interface with the products they use. If we’re talking to a consumer that is constantly on the go, for example, then we know portability is likely important to them. Armed with a clear picture of who the consumer is, we turn to more specific thoughts on the products and packaging we’re researching. We allow them to talk to us about what they like when they’re in the aisle. There are a million choices out there. What has gravity for them? It could be a package’s decoration. It could be the structural design. It could be any number of factors. What types of packages get noticed on shelf and why? What do the packages that they pick up have in common? We show consumers packaging

that exists and listen to what they have to say. We show consumers packaging they’ve never seen and discover what new ideas interest them. In the end, we have a much clearer idea of what consumers want. Which is ultimately the best path to a brand win. The idea behind this research is simple. We listen, we watch, we learn. This allows us to identify otherwise unspotted or unidentified opportunities. As consumers ourselves, we sometimes assume our own experience can guide us. We know what we like. We have an idea of what has worked in the past. But by constantly examining how people live and how their lifestyles and preferences are changing, we’re able to anticipate behavior shifts in the future. That’s how sales are made.

Insight Driven Innovation Suppliers’ ability to dive into a consumer’s mind enables us to more effectively collaborate with brand owners and develop impactful package designs that address identified (and even unidentified) needs. Using our discovered insights, we develop smart, creative solutions. By looking at packaging as a whole, instead of pieces—a holistic approach to package design—we are able to develop realizable solutions that can be executed on time, on spec and on budget. We don’t merely focus on the best vessel or the best dispensing solution— we focus on developing the most attractive, functionally superior package that outperforms the consumer’s expectations. n GCI

Becky Donner is vice president of design and market insight for TricorBraun, leading the design and innovation group. Her previous experience includes 20 years with Aptar, including eight years leading the company’s fragrance and cosmetics packaging initiative, followed by two years as director of Aptar’s Latin American marketing.

56   The Whole Package    GCI November 2014

WRAP UP

The latest in Packaging innovation

Elegant application

Tactile Control

Lipstick Sampler

Metallic Tube

Fusion Packaging introduced Direct Effect, a collection of tubebased direct applicators for targeted treatment available in both 16 mm and 19 mm tube diameters with capacities ranging from 5 mL to 20 mL. Designed to be gentle, efficient and precise, the collection features 15 customizable styles in three series. Designed using Fusion’s SmartSeal closures, these applicators are engineered to eliminate flow when sealed. The Rollerball Series is comprised of eight single-roller and triple-roller applicators. Offered in ceramic, polypropylene (PP), or stainless steel, the Rollerball and Tri-Steel Rollerball distributes product to targeted areas. The Soft-Slope Series features five ergonomically angled styles—Vented, Stimulating and three Center-Dispensing options—that contour to the face and body for precise application. The Pro-Tip Series has two unique applicators, Brush Tip and Spatula Tip, that allow for controlled and hygienic application and maximum product penetration. www.fusionpkg.com

Bioplan created a lipstick sampler comprised of a small spatula with the lipstick hot moulded onto the end and covered with a one-use disposable blister pack. The sampler was designed to be easy to use and to offer consumers a method of testing the color, richness, finish and application of a real lipstick in an optimal, hygienic way. www.lepapillon-bioplan.com

Aptar Beauty + Home expanded its SofTips product line with a direct to hair or skin sensory application closure with a 20-410 neck finish. The SofTips valve technology is designed to deliver precise dispensing control and product cut-off of viscous formulas and serums, and the soft, tactile feel of the silicone valve is intended to create a unique experience for the consumer. Aptar also introduced Glide, a hoodless accessory technology that locks with a gliding motion similar to finger swipes used on smart devices. Designed for one-hand-dispensing, Glide can be un-locked with a sideward movement of the thumb and actuated with the index finger. The grooved surface of the finger pad enhances ease of use. Audible clicks and a covered orifice indicate when the actuator is locked or ready to use. Glide fits on the industry standard 1 inch mounting cup, and multiple spray insert options are available. www.aptar.com/beauty-home/home

M&H Plastics, part of the RPC Group of companies, produced a metallic finish tube with a color-matched metallized cap for Cloud 9 Skin Solutions. The tubes range from 50 mL through to 150 mL and use clear graphics and color coding to identify the respective treatments. www.mhplastics.com

Statement of Ownership, Management and Circulation (Act of August 12, 1970; Section 3685, Title 39, United States Code)

1. Publication title: Global Cosmetic Industry 2. Publication number: 1523-9470 3. Filing date: September 2014 4. Issue frequency: Monthly except Feb. and Aug. 5. Number of issues published annually: 10 6. Annual subscription price: Free 7. Complete mailing address of known office of publication: 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 8. Complete mailing address of headquarters or general business offices of publisher: Same as above 9. Full names and complete mailing addresses of publisher, editor and managing editor. Editor: Jeff Falk, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188 10. Owner: Allured Business Media, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188; Janet Ludwig, Jeb Gleason-Allured 11. Known bondholders, mortgages and other security holders owning or holding 1 percent or more of total amount of bonds, mortgages or other securities: None. 12. Tax Status (For completion by nonprofit organizations authorized to mail at special rates.) The purpose, function and nonprofit status of this organization and the exempt status for federal income tax purposes: Not applicable 13. Publication title: Global Cosmetic Industry magazine 14. Issue date for circulation data below: July/August 2014 15. Extent and nature of circulation Average number of copies each Number of copies of single issue issue during preceding 12 months published nearest to filing date a. Total number of copies (net press run): 15,739 17,000 b. Paid and/or Requested circulation: 1. Mailed outside county 14,495 10,175 2. Mailed inside county 0 0 3. Distribution outside the mail 114 125 4. Distribution by other classes mailed through the USPS 0 0 c. Total paid and/or requested distribution 10,609 10,300 d. Nonrequested distribution 1. Outside county 3,992 6,092 2. Inside county 0 0 3. Distribution by other classes mailed through the USPS 0 0 4. Distribution outside the mail 502 400 e. Total nonrequested distribution 4,494 6,492 f. Total distribution 15,103 16,792 g. Copies not distributed 636 208 h. Total 15,739 17,000 i. Percent paid and/or requested circulation 70.2% 61.3% 16. Publication of this Statement of Ownership: Will be printed in the November 2014 issue of this publication. 17. Signature and title of editor, publisher, business manager or owner: Janet Ludwig, Owner I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanctions (including fines and imprisonment) and/or civil sanctions (including multiple damages and civil penalties).

58   Wrap Up    GCI November 2014

SUPPLIER NEWS Ileos (owned by Oaktree Capital Management, L.P.) and Visant Corporation (controlled by affiliates of KKR and DLJ Merchant Banking) announced the closing of the transaction between Bioplan and Arcade Marketing resulting in the formation of a new strategic venture under which Oaktree retains a 75% ownership interest and Visant retains a 25% ownership interest. The combination of their complementary technologies, manufacturing capabilities and global footprint, according to a joint statement, accelerates the innovation and new products development perspectives in sampling, unit dose and promotional turnkey solutions. Neopac won the 2014 Swiss Packaging Award in the design category for Akademikliniken’s “Pure Lip Intense” with the Cool Tip applicator. According to the award jury, “The innovative combination of materials is excellently suited to the function, handling and quality of the product... the packaging functions and the aesthetic form were united in a completely convincing design that brilliantly conveys the brand values.” Diamond Packaging announced it has achieved zero manufacturing waste to landfill status, an important milestone towards meeting its future goal of zero waste to landfill. The recovery and recycling program is an evolution of the company’s greenbox sustainability initiative, and one that, according to the company, will provide long-term environmental and economic benefits. Diamond achieved its goal through strategic partnerships with Cascades Recovery, Covanta Sustainable Solutions Group and Advanced Waste Solutions. A collaborative task force was created to audit manufacturing and recovery methods and seek positive end-of-life scenarios (solutions) for all waste streams. The Lindal Group’s Bag On Valve (BoV) Technology and “Wave” actuator were chosen by Unilever for its Axe Men’s Chilled Shave Gel. VariBlend is growing its global network of sales consultants with the expected addition of at least 12 local sales representatives. The also now includes four distributors, and Business Development Partners, based in New Jersey and credited with the recent sale of the VariBlend’s dual dispensing solutions to Redken, will have a global coordinating role and remain focused on the North American market. Diamond Packaging won five awards in the 28th Excellence Awards, a competition that recognizes the highest level of printing quality and technical achievement across the full range of packaging segments. Diamond won first place in the “Sustainability – Folding Cartons” category for Elizabeth Arden’s John Varvatos Artisan Acqua carton, third place in the “Folding Cartons – Offset” category for Five Star Fragrance Company’s Michael Jordan Legend Gift Set and honorable mention in the “Folding Cartons – Offset” category for Elizabeth Arden’s White Diamonds Gift Set (Mother’s Day 2014).

Mini Airless

In reaction to growing market demand for mini products, Mega Airless created Nano, a range of airless mini dispensers. Available in 5 mL, 10 mL and 15 mL formats, Nano is designed for easy filling on high-speed standard lines. Nano can also be personalized with a large choice of colors and decoration techniques (silk-screening, labeling and hot-stamping). The dispensers are entirely recyclable. www.mega-airless.de/cosmo/uk www.GCImagazine.com

Wrap Up  59

MAIN INGREDIENTS Aerosol Butter

Swallowfield PLC developed an aerosol spray for body butters, believed to be the first of its kind. The aerosol was created using a new material, which together with the formulation, shear-thins the thick texture of a body butter to create a rich product that can be sprayed. The aerosol ensures the products are not only easily and cleanly dispensed, but unlike jars, are not exposed to the environment and are therefore protected from contamination. The launch product will combine shea butter and passion flower oil, and there are plans to create a whole spray range of butter and oil blends. The new aerosol packaging is 100% recyclable and available in 75 mL– 200 mL sizes. www.swallowfield.com

Anti-cellulite Plankton

Lipotec, a Lubrizol company, introduced an active that fights cellulite at night. Nocturshape blue ingredient is an exopolysaccharide obtained through biotechnology from a planktonic microorganism. It targets the expression of the circadian gene nocturnin in adipocytes, which peaks at early night. Fat reduction was found to be more effective with the active than with caffeine. The ingredient’s slimming profile is further complemented with its efficacy in reinforcing the dermal

Ingredients now on the market

matrix through type I collagen, which contributes to reducing visible fat nodules that characterize cellulite. The active is said to reduce cellulite after 15 days in body care formulations for global anti-cellulite, slimming and firming products specified for nighttime application. www.lipotec.com

Rice Bran Products

RiceBran Technologies developed a series of rice bran-based finished products for the personal care and nutricosmetics markets. These offerings will be sold as private label finished products on a B2B basis. Rice bran contains gamma oryzanols, ceramides, vitamin E and UV-absorbing compounds that help protect and maintain skin health by promoting hydration and elasticity. The company’s initial product offerings are based on rice bran and derivatives, as well as rice bran oil. Products include hand and skin creams, anti-aging serum, exfoliants, moisturizers and other treatments, and were formulated at the company’s Healthy Natural facility in Irving, Texas. RiceBran Tehnologies is in discussions with a number of potential partners to launch its products through a variety of distribution channels and expects the initial products to reach consumers in the fourth quarter of 2014 and the first quarter of 2015. www.ricebrantech.com

SUPPLIER NEWS Evonik Industries has announced an expansion of its specialty silica capacities in Ako, Japan through a holding in DSL Japan Co. Ltd. (DSL). Evonik holds 51% of shares in DSL, a joint venture with the Japanese Shionogi & Co. Ltd. The company’s subsidiary, Evonik Corp., has named Univar Inc. the distributor for its personal care ingredients in the Northeastern United States. Evonik will continue to sell its silicone-based products directly. BASF has assisted the Tanzania’s Regional Dermatology Training Centre (RDTC) in developing a sunscreen for people with congenital pigmentation disorder, or albinism. Impact Colors has released its color trends report for 2016 and beyond. The seventh annual Color Trends 2016+ highlights four distinct trends: Artland, Enchanted, Cosmos and Rendezvous. AAK Personal Care has signed a sole distributor agreement with ABA Mexico S.A. de C. V. The choice of ABA to distribute AAK’s ingredients was due, in part, to the shared specialty of bioactives and functional ingredients.

PEOPLE Koh Akiyama to president and CEO of Presperse, replacing Sumio Hino, who has been appointed to lead the management of Sumitomo Corp.’s global cosmetics business.

60  Main Ingredients    GCI November 2014

EVENTS

Products and SERVICES

showcase

CONTRACT MANUFACTURING

november 2014 4–6 in-cosmetics Asia 2014 Bangkok www.in-cosmeticsasia.com

12–14 Cosmoprof Asia 2014 Hong Kong www.cosmoprof-asia.com

20 CEW(UK) 2014 Achiever Awards London www.cewuk.co.uk

25–26 Making Cosmetics/Formulating Cosmetics Milan www.making-cosmetics.it

december 2014

CONTRACT MANUFACTURING HEALTH • BEAUTY • OTC • HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS A TOTAL SERVICE – Formulation to Drop Shipping Long and Short Runs FDA-EPA Registered Visit our web site at www.ecometics.com 19 Concord St., So. Norwalk, CT 06854

ECOMETICS INC. 203-853-7856

3–4 MakeUp in São Paulo São Paulo www.makeup-in-saopaulo.com

4–5 PBA Executive Summit 2014 Scottsdale, AZ www.probeauty.org/execs

11–12 Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Annual Meeting New York www.scconline.org/annual-meeting

february 2015 22–25 Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) 2015 Annual Meeting Palm Beach, FL www.personalcarecouncil.org

To reserve space in this section, contact Kim Jednachowski kjednachowski@allured.com • 1-630-344-6054

Tom Harris tharris@allured.com • 1-201-455-4702

Jane Evison jane-evison@btconnect.com • 44(0)-1430-441685

www.GCImagazine.com

Products and Services Showcase   61

Products and sErVIcEs

showcase CONTRACT MANUFACTURING

For quality custom reprints or e-prints, please contact:

Foster Printing Services 1-866-879-9144 sales@fosterprinting.com www.fosterprinting.com

62

Products and Services Showcase

to reserve space in this section, contact Kim Jednachowski kjednachowski@allured.com • 1-630-344-6054 Tom Harris tharris@allured.com • 1-201-455-4702 Jane Evison jane-evison@btconnect.com • 44(0)-1430-441685

GCI November 2014

PACKAGING

www.GCImagazine.com

Products and Services Showcase

63

Ad Index The Advertiser Index is provided as an additional service for readers to obtain information on companies and their products. The publisher assumes no liability for omissions or errors.

Page

Advertiser

Phone

WEB SITE

35

AMA Laboratories, Inc.

1-845-634-4330

www.amalabs.com

43

Arylessence, Inc.

1-770-924-3775

www.arylessence.com

BASF

1-973-245-6000

www.carecreations.basf.com

11

Bell Flavors & Fragrances, Inc.

1-847-291-8300

www.bellff.com

15

Berjé, Inc.

1-973-748-8980

www.berjeinc.com

33

Bio-Botanica, Inc.

1-631-231-5522

www.bio-botanica.com

19

Bioscreen Testing Services

1-310-214-0043

www.bioscreen.com

27

Biosil Technologies, Inc.

1-201-825-8800

www.biosiltech.com

Centerchem, Inc.

1-203-822-9800

www.centerchem.com

Classic Cosmetics, Inc.

1-818-773-9042

www.classiccosmetics.com

Coast Southwest, Inc.

1-714-524-2777

www.coastsouthwest.com

Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit

1-630-653-2155

summit.CosmeticsandToiletries.com

7

Croda, Inc.

1-732-417-0800

www.crodausa.com

5

Diamond Wipes

1-800-454-1077

www.diamondwipes.com

47

Dymax Corporation

1-877-396-2988

www.dymax.com

53

East Hill Industries

1-877-239-2831

www.packagingcosmetics.com

44

Extracts & Ingredients

1-908-688-9009

www.morretec.com

51

Fusion Packaging

1-214-747-2004

www.fusionpkg.com

JSN Packaging Products, Inc.

1-949-458-0050

www.jsn.com

Lady Burd

1-800-345-3448

www.ladyburd.com

Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.

1-216-447-5000

www.lubrizol.com/personalcare

59

McKernan Packaging Clearing House

1-775-356-6111

www.mckernan.com

41

Pak Lab

1-909-517-2442

www.paklab.com

48

Pilot Chemical Co.

1-800-707-4568

www.pilotchemical.com

31

SCC New York/Holiday Party

1-845-639-4045

www.nyscc.org

60

Simplex Filler Co., Inc.

1-707-265-6801

www.simplexfiller.com

21

Singapore Economic Development Board

39

SoGeCos/Cosmopack Bologna

39-02-796-420

www.cosmoprof.com

25

Spectra Colors Corp.

1-201-997-0606

www.spectracolors.com

23

Sun Deep Cosmetics, Inc.

1-800-985-2228

www.sundeepinc.com

17

TCR Industries

1-714-521-5222

www.tcrindustries.com

54

The Beauty Company

1-202-686-4844

www.beautyproducttesting.com

32

The Kitchen Collaborative

1-818-588-3060

www.kitchencollaborative.com

37

U.S. Nonwovens. Corp.

1-631-952-0100

www.usnonwovens.com

49

Verla Int'l Ltd.

1-845-562-5542

www.verlainternational.com

29

Welch Holme & Clark Co., Inc.

1-973-465-1200

www.welch-holme-clark.com

57

YonWoo/PKG

1-631-981-8701

www.pkggroup.com

9

Cover 4 38 Cover 2 45

Cover 3 13 3

www.singaporebusiness.com

for advertising info Kim Jednachowski

Tom Harris

Jane Evison

Paige Crist

All US States Except NJ & PA kjednachowski@allured.com 1-630-344-6054

NJ & PA, Canada, Central & South America tharris@allured.com 1-201-445-4702

Europe & Asia jane-evison@btconnect.com 44-(0)-1430-441685

Fragrance pcrist@allured.com 1-630-730-9240

64   Ad Index

GCI November 2014

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