Nuke Pro Maxx Payloader

What is it about the perfection of this rocket? The Nuke Pro Maxx has character in spades. When I hit the range with this rocket, just about everyone wants to pick it up and hold it. The look is sleek, well proportioned, and timeless. With the shape of the fins and payload capacity, it is a pure, no-nonsense look similar to the Hawk, or the Chinese SD-10.

This is the essence: plastic nose cone, high power paper body tubes, plywood bulkhead, pre-cut fin slots, pre-cut plywood fins, simple motor mount, and simple recovery system. If you want to take a shot at high power for the first time, do your level 1 or 2 certification, or just build a fun high power payload rocket quickly, this is definitely the kit.

The LOC/Precision Nuke Pro Maxx is a high power capable model in every way. You'll find that it is the perfect rocket if you'd like to get your Level 1 High Power Certification because it is very robust to handle the stresses of high power flight. And it is a simple rocket to build, so you'll be able to get ready for your certification flight in a short amount of time.

1) Optimal formula. The formula LOC uses for this kit is the optimal setup for strength, simplicity, and altitude. It is a near minimum diameter kit, which gives it less weight and drag for higher altitude. With a real minimum-diameter mach capable rocket, you have to strengthen the fins, so most builders fiberglass their fins tip to tip. The Nuke uses through the body tube fin mounting to maximize fin strength, taking advantage of the absolute best of both worlds.

2) Price. If you're seriously considering the Nuke Pro Maxx, you know how expensive some of the other extreme performance high-power kits can be. I've seen payload kits the same size as the Nuke Pro Maxx going for as much as $250. But for a real deal, it's possible to set this kit up to do Level 1 and Level 2 certification on a tiny budget. It's almost not fair. The Nuke can easily do your Level 1, no sweat. If you want to fly it on I and J motors, consider fiberglassing the body and fins, but you're still way below the cost of those kits that use unobtainium body tube and fin can materials.

3) Eye Candy. With the simple, classic, sleek design, the Nuke Pro Maxx is simply hot and nasty. It makes a lot of other level 2 capable rockets look like Berthas. I painted our display model with a deep burgundy metal flake automotive paint for the body and a rich teal for the nose cone. It does that sparkly thing in the sun. Shazzammm!

4) Quick Building. You can build a Nuke in one evening, easy. With 5-minute epoxy and an on-the-range timed build-and-fly competition, you might even be able to get one in the air in 25 minutes. Superior engineering makes it easy.

5) Incredible Range of Motors. The small size allows you to fly on E motors. That large hole in the back lets you fly on J motors. You can demo it for the kiddos on a football field or take it to Mile High Mayhem for an insane mach-breaking trip to the sun. I hate doing this, because it cuts into motor sales, but you see the massive motor table above? Well, it only lists approximately half of the motors we sell that will work in this kit! We had to cut it in half because nobody wants to scroll down that far to get to the meat.

If there is one flaw in this rocket, it is that it does not include an engine retention system. The instructions suggest friction-fitting the motor into the rocket. We prefer something more positive. Fortunately, the modifications are pretty easy to do. There are some suggestions on our motor retention information page. Additionally, it can easily be modified to use the Aero Pack Engine Retainers. This gives the model an extra professional-looking appearance.

All in all, this is an awesome rocket. I recommend that you get one today!

LOC/Precision believes that if you're considering this kit, you know a few things about rockets. The kit is astonishingly simple to build, and the instructions are only one page. So you're on your own when it comes to such minor issues as motor retention.

The main reason this is a Skill Level 3 is that the instructions call for epoxy as the primary adhesive. This may be a little bit overkill if you're planning on G powered flights, as the through-the-wall fins are nicely machined and the fit itself makes them quite strong when assembled with wood glue, but it makes plenty of sense to use epoxy if you plan to do H, I, and J powered flights.

Epoxy can be messy and cause an allergic reaction in some people. Adult supervision and nitrile gloves are recommended when working with epoxy.

This LOC Nuke Pro Maxx is a big rocket that uses heavy wall tubes. While the tubes don't make the rocket any harder to assemble, the finished rocket does require extra safety precautions when flown. Patience and acquired flying skills to know when NOT to fly are just as important as quality construction techniques. With a launch weight well above the 16 ounce limit of model rocket club activities, plan on taking this serious hardware only to high power events.

• Pencil
• Ruler
• Scissors

• Masking Tape

• Hobby Knife - Hobby with #11 Blade

• Fix-It Epoxy Clay (for fillets)

• Adhesives - 5 minute epoxy or wood glue

• Adhesives - 5 minute epoxy

• Adhesives - Wood Glue
• Long Dowel To Spread Glue Inside The Body Tube

• Sanding Block (or Sanding Tee)

• Finishing Supplies like sanding sealer, paint and sandpaper (200 and 400 grit).

• Recovery Wadding - Disposable | Reusable
• Rocket Motors - See the motor selection tab.

• Launch Pad & Controller - See FAQs tab for recommended choices.

• Aluminum angle for drawing lines on the body tube, or the Estes Ultimate Tube Marking Guide

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