For Jing Gao, Doubanjiang Is a Pantry Nonnegotiable

It’s essential to iconic Sichuan dishes like mapo tofu.
Doubanjiang jars stacked on top of each other with a hand pulling a scoop out
Photography by Breanne Furlong, Food Styling by Emilie Fosnocht

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I’m obsessed with mapo tofu. I order it every time I see it on a menu, and I cook it for myself any chance I get. A bowl of mapo tofu over rice is one of life’s perfect experiences. And it’s surprisingly easy to make for how much of a punch it packs—rich, spicy, tingly, and umami all at once. But the secret to a truly great mapo tofu is in the doubanjiang, the most essential ingredient in the dish—and an all-time staple in my pantry.

Doubanjiang, a fermented and preserved fava bean paste, is often called the soul of Sichuan cooking. It’s at the heart of many of the province’s signature dishes, from mapo tofu to twice-cooked pork, hot pot, and so much more. The absolute best doubanjiang is made in a county named Pixian, just outside of Chengdu, where factories have been honing their craft for hundreds of years. A mixture of fava beans, Erjingtiao chiles, salt, and wheat flour are combined and left to ferment under the sun in earthen crocks for anywhere from a month to several years. The savory, complex flavors develop over time to create something deeply umami and truly magical.

3 Year Aged Doubanjiang

Younger versions of doubanjiang are aged in industrial cement vats for just a few months, producing a sharper, bright red chile paste. Older versions are aged three to five years, made the traditional way in earthen crocks. In that case, the doubanjiang is stirred every day by hand and left to ferment under the Sichuan sun, creating a deep, almost purple-hued chile paste that is extremely deep, funky, and soulful.

When I started my condiment company Fly By Jing, I made sure that we carried the best version on the market, a three-year doubanjiang, with no additives, that was largely unavailable outside of China. Selfishly, it was so that I could easily make my beloved mapo tofu whenever I wanted.

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The best part is, doubanjiang is so versatile and compelling, you don’t even need a recipe that calls for it. (Though if you want one, try this vegan ramen or this boiled fish.) Just a spoonful goes a long way in punching up endless dishes, like stir-fries, stews, braises, and marinades.

Whatever I’m cooking, doubanjiang is never further than an arm’s reach away.