Review: Dogma

What were your first impressions when you arrived? 

Tucked just within the city walls, between Garbatella and Re di Roma, Dogma is making Piazza Zama a veritable dining destination. A relative newcomer to the Roman restaurant scene, this seafood grill from chef Gabriele di Lecce and sommelier Alessandra Serramondi has been making waves since it opened in 2022. The design is minimalist, with white walls and black tables, but the buzzing, tightly packed space and clattering of plates feels decidedly Roman.

What’s the crowd like? 

Everyone is excited to be here, drawn by the promise of a chic new seafood grill. The location’s a bit out of town, so punters are serious about food, from in-the-know tourists to young professionals and groups of friends.

What should we be drinking? 

The wine list is small and considered, with most coming from the Lazio region. There’s a small bar for anyone wanting a cocktail, but we’d recommend asking sommelier Alessandra for her recommendation when ordering.

Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss. 

Di Lecce’s tight menu focuses on traditional Italian seafood dishes, each with a contemporary twist. Everything is cooked on the grill, from a prettily plated starter of anchovies with almonds and chicory to the cod fish, served with grilled chard and drizzled in honey from Casaletto in Campagna. The first courses of pasta change depending on what’s fresh that day–a recent visit featured fettucine with shrimp and charred courgette, and spaghetti with scampi and a sprinkling of hazelnuts. Even the desserts are made on the grill–the unusual take on tiramisu is particularly special.

And how did the front-of-house folks treat you? 

It’s a real family affair, with Gabriele and Alessandra and a team of attentive, gracious staff on-hand to make sure your evening goes exactly to plan.

What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here? 

Tables at Dogma are coveted, with evenings selling out 3-4 weeks in advance, so it’s worthwhile planning your night with just one two dining companions, giving you the best chance at nabbing a space.