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Fun Dining And Nature’s Calling: How Lime Wood Continues To Evolve

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Whether it is forest bathing or mountain meditation, since the pandemic our yearning for a deeper connection to nature is one that continues to grow. Capturing this growing wellness trend, across a multitude of offerings, is Lime Wood, one of the UK’S pre-eminent country house hotels, found in the New Forest.

The new ReWild Yourself Retreats, for instance, on offer at its Herb House spa, immerse guests in the great outdoors, with Forest Fitness sessions and holistic rituals by Irish wellness brand Ground Wellbeing all part of the offering. Ground’s products are all handmade in small batches in Cork, Ireland, and the deeply intentional therapies are great for those feeling burnt-out, as each one focuses on breathwork, offers hands-on rhythmical pressures and techniques and includes lymphatic drainage.

Launching this month is the Ground Cleansing Ritual that features the latest product from Ground – the Cleanse Abdominal Body Oil. The therapy tackles gut health which is known to be a definitive factor in mental, emotional and physical wellbeing. For those feeling stressed or tired, the brand’s signature Grounding Ritual is another treat. It includes an intense back, neck and head massage to assuage feelings of anxiety and tiredness and leave you feeling ‘in the moment’.

Since Herb House opened in 2011, the spa has partnered with Voya, another beauty label tapping into the beneficial effects of nature. Restorative facials and detoxing wraps use organic, seaweed-based products and botanical ingredients and harness ancient traditions, age-old methods and sustainable processes.

Newer still is a recent collaboration with Mindfulness and Beyond, which saw the spa host retreats with the expert co-founders to explore the body-mind-heart connection, in order to combat stress.

At the heart of Lime Wood is a 360° offering from Bamford – the British beauty house which champions natural living. From the in-room Bamford pillow spray, which harnesses the sedative powers of frankincense, lavender and marjoram, to the geranium bathroom products, this partnership is one that is laced throughout the hotel and is a perfect fit to its ethos. (For an immersive experience, check out Bamford’s seasonal retreats which include Dorset forest bathing, immersion walks and sound healing.)

Surrounded by ancient forest and farmland, Lime Wood’s Herb House spa has long been rooted in the natural world with garden treatment rooms and a rootop herb garden offering instant relaxation. Head up the ‘hidden’ staircase to find what almost feels like an idyllic secret garden – it’s a fragrant and peaceful space, filled with nodding lavender, rosemary and thyme, potted olive trees and wrought iron seating.

Spread over three floors, Herb House is a serene, light-filled retreat, with floor-to-ceiling windows giving views into woodlands. As well a hydro pool and outdoor hot pool, you can escape to a mud house, exercise at the rooftop gym, and find inner peace at the forest sauna. For nourishment, meanwhile, Raw & Cured is the Herb House restaurant, run by chefs Ria Rhodes and Luke Holder, offering healthy soul food, such as broths, super-food salads, flatbreads and smoothies.

After a day switching off, the relaxing continues by cocooning in one of the homely bedrooms. Whether it is in the eaves of the Main House or a room in the Coach House, the 33 bedrooms boast a welcoming and eclectic design ethos. The Crescent Rooms feel more like mini cottages with separate living areas and spacious bathrooms. You reach them via an avenue lined with terracotta pots filled with lavender. In the autumn, swallows make their nests under the eaves; in the summer arches over the path are laden with perfumed jasmine. Inside the rooms, bright textiles, painted weatherboard walls, squidgy sofas and modern art – curated by interior designer Susie Atkinson – make for a cheerful ambiance. Rattan armchairs are found on a rustic patio, giving views over the woodland; windows are covered with wooden shutters, giving a fairytale appeal; while power showers and thick towels are exactly what you want after a day exploring the trails through the New Forest (each room also comes with a lanyard encasing a map of walks to follow).

This year, the hotel is celebrating another highlight – the 10 year anniversary of its signature estaurant, Hartnet, Holder & Co (HH&Co), a collaborative venture by Luke Holder and Angela Hartnett, which also taps into the best of nature – this time, in terms of celebrating the best of the UK’s bountiful produce.

Ten years ago, Luke and Angela’s vision was to change the face of country house hotel restaurants and create a dining experience that embodied ‘fun dining’ rather than ‘fine dining’. They wanted to create a space that was full of character, yet was unpretentious. Understanding that times were changing and that hotel restaurants needed to be more accessible, they removed the formal white tablecloths and tasting menus of old and replaced them with a stripped back atmospheric space. The idea was for guests to feel equally comfortable whether they were stopping by for a quick bowl of pasta or settling in for a long lunch with friends. Not only did this set a precedent for other hotels, but 10 years on, this philosophy remains at the heart of HH&Co.

Here, exclusively for Forbes, Luke Holder, chef director of HH&Co reveals more about the milestone and the principles behind the restaurant.

How has HH&Co changed or evolved over the past 10 years?

We have kept moving with the times, which I think is so important in maintaining the atmosphere we want to create in HH&Co. We want to ensure that nothing becomes outdated and both the menu and setting remain current. One major thing for me is that guests may be staying more than one night, so you need a menu that changes daily. We are also now working with small community-led, no-dig local farms and this has become the driving force of creativity in the kitchen. It is possibly the biggest change we have seen at our restaurant over the years.

What is a 'must-try' for guests visiting for the first time?

The pasta is always a highlight – whether it is a humble Gnocchi with Russian Kale or the very popular and seasonal Polenta Ravioli, with truffles during the darker months – an absolute favourite with guests.

How do you and Angela Hartnett work together?

When you collaborate with another chef, it is more than just the plate of food in front of you. It’s the ambience, it’s the culture, it's the atmosphere, it’s the approach. I think that’s the thing I’ve learnt the most from Angela – it isn’t the consistency of a purée or what two ingredients go together, it’s more about broader notions. You need to consider questions, such as how does the menu feel? What is the scope of the offering and is it approachable? Angela always asks the question – is this right for the customer? If you focus on that question, it means you put your guests front and centre. I would say our friendship, in and out of the kitchen, is honest, professional and fun. We focus on the mantra ‘people, product, profit’ in that order.

What is your ‘twist’ on Italian cuisine?

The twist is the fact we embrace the philosophy of what makes Italian food so great and the culture around it. We then weave in English ingredients and create variations of Italian classics – such as our Cacio e Pepe – which we often make with brown crab as a subtle twist.

How do you keep the culinary offering interesting?

It is important to stick to what you know and to not get side-tracked by the latest food trends. I think it’s a dangerous game to try and move with simply what’s in fashion. Keeping it ‘fresh’ to us means to understand the changing requirements of your guests. Currently people are wanting a more flexible approach to their dining, so they may choose to limit the amount of gluten, meat, and dairy they are consuming, for instance. Our menus will reflect that without losing the essence of who we are. Focusing on your guests and looking after them is important to us.

What is the atmosphere in the kitchen during a busy service?

At the beginning, there was a bit of shoutiness. But we soon buckled down and said let’s not do that anymore, because we pride ourselves on the ‘Co’ element of the HH&Co. In the kitchen, it’s very much a collaborative thing. We are all equally important and I would say that’s a huge factor in why there are so many of the team still with us since it all began 10 years ago. I am a very strong believer in positivity and would rather have a team of less-experienced staff with a great attitude then have the dark days of leading a kitchen on fear. Mistakes happen, but you can’t learn anything without making mistakes. It's important to create a culture around embracing the mistakes and trying not to repeat them. The atmosphere during a busy service can be electric and we focus on all that positive energy. It’s a young and exciting vibe in our kitchen, for sure.

What regions of Italy do you love the most?

I love Tuscany and Puglia. We had a summer holiday with Angela in Puglia this year. The produce is always outstanding in Italy and that's why I love it so much!

What is your ultimate Italian dish?

Freshly picked Porcini mushroom risotto – it’s hard to beat.

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