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Long hair for men can be hard to describe. Think about it: We have all these terms for shot styles: Most guys know what a crew cut or #2 buzz looks like. But when we say “long hair," that usually means full on metalhead. Or Jason Momoa.
But lately we've been loving something that's long—but a little shorter than “long hair.” It's a bit like the rare good hair day you're blessed with when you’re growing out your hair. We say: Why not have a good hair day every day? It's possible—and it all comes down to the right regimen, tools, and products.
For more on that, we linked up with two of our most trusted celebrity groomers. For styling, we talked to Melissa DeZarate, whose clients include Lee Pace (the handsome fella you see above), Kumail Nanjiani, and Henry Golding. And for daily care, we got tips from Jessica Ortiz, whose clients include Andrew Garfield and Regé Jean-Page.
One note before we start: These tips are mostly for guys with relatively straight hair. If you're on the curlier side of things, we've got more on the topic—and a very-informative video.
How to Style Medium-Long Hair
Puffing and poofing is the enemy. And the reason your hair might be inflating is because you’re not targeting the right part of your hair with product, says DeZarate. “You’re most likely not using enough hydrating products [like styling creams] on the mids to ends of your hair. You need a little bit of weight to keep the hair from ‘going big’.”
But overdoing it on the roots; chances are, they're plenty hydrated due to their proximity to the scalp—assuming you’re not over-washing them. “[Product buildup] will cause greasy heavy roots that make it look like you haven’t washed your hair,” DeZarate says.
One notable aspect of styling medium-long and long hair for men is a shift to lighter styling products. When compares to shorter styles, there’s less emphasis on hold since gravity simplifies things. So while hair of this length requires more TLC than short hair, the actual styling can err on the minimalist side.
“Start by spraying on some volumizer or styling spray, when you’re either towel drying your hair or right out of the shower,” says DeZarate. “Comb or brush through, then, while the hair is still wet, apply a nickel sized amount of styling cream. You can always add more, but start with less to begin with until you know how much your hair can hold. Then, brush or comb into place and let your hair air dry for the lowest maintenance possible.”
If you’ve got enough time to linger at home while your hair dries, that's probably better than blow drying. However, there is one main exception, says DeZarate: on cold days. “In the cold months, your hair is more susceptible to becoming brittle and dry with little to no humidity in the air,” she explains.
Make sure that you use a diffuser nozzle at the end of your blow dryer, too, since it will spread out the air into manageable flow and will dry the hair steadily from the roots up, instead of from the top down. DeZarate adds that you should protect your strands with a heat defense spray or cream prior to blow drying, too. This will coat the hairs and lock in the moisture. Secondly, use an ionic hair dryer if possible.
“Use the blow dryer on the lowest speed setting, but a higher heat setting to ‘set’ your hair in place. Let it completely cool before touching it so that you’ll have less to deal with during the day. Once your hair is dry you should be able to shake out your hair and have an effortless, low-maintenance style.” You can of course replicate this any day of the year—particularly when you’re in a hurry to have it dry before heading out the door. But blow drying it every single day is an invitation for frizz, split ends, breakage, and more, less you maintain a strong, steady hair care regimen.
Hair oil also works wonderfully as a heat protectant.
Read More: How to blow dry your hair
How to Care for Medium-Long Hair
Styling is only half of the game.
1. Find the right shampoo-conditioner balance
In general, you should shampoo your hair 2-3 times a week, says Ortiz—though this amount could change if you workout/sweat a lot or have other factors that require more frequent resets. “Condition with every wash and in between washes use the co-washing technique, which is a solo conditioner being used to rinse out the styling products or sweat,” she says. (Some brands also sell gently rinsing co-wash conditioners, which provide a terrific balance between washes with a full-on shampoo and conditioner application.)
You need to find the balance that works for you; it’s not good to have overly washed, dry, brittle hair, but you don't want to be greasy. Try to scale back to an every-other day shampoo at first, and then space it out a little bit more from there. Every third day should be achievable, especially if you can co-wash on the days between.
Ortiz likes to target the seasonal elements with different types of hair care agendas: “In the winter months, choose shampoo and conditioners with rich natural oils, and which are heavy on moisturizing properties,” she says. “For the summer months, you’re dealing with humid, sunny weather so it’s good to switch to a smoothing shampoo/conditioning set to prevent frizzing.”
Here's something heavier:
And two to try for the warmer months:
One way to ensure consistently smooth, hydrated, and cooperative hair is to administer a hair mask once a week—Ortiz notes that they’re also extremely beneficial to your scalp’s health, too.
You can find masks that target the scalp specifically, or ones that target damaged hair. (Generally, the benefits will be shared between hair and scalp regardless.) This weekly jolt of nutrients and targeted treatments will keep everything strong, balanced, and cooperative as you continue growing—or as you maintain the length you’ve already got.
It can seem counterproductive to get steady haircuts while your hair grows out, but it will help navigate those awkward stages by keeping you “cleaned up”, even if it’s a short trim and texturizing session. More importantly, though, these regular cleanups are imperative for the health of your hair.
“You need to get regular trims, to prevent split ends,” says Ortiz. “Set a calendar reminder to book a haircut every 8-12 weeks when it’s longer, and every 4-8 weeks for shorter hair.”
Commit to long hair—and get strategic haircuts along the way.
