Many Florida anglers know the Goliath grouper as the creature that rises from the depths and steals their catch off their line. But few know what it’s like to reel in this highly protected fish, let alone what it tastes like.
After about 30 years of a strict catch-and-release policy, the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission began permitting limited harvesting of the fish in 2022.
Jonathan Earhart, a Stuart-based fishing guide with Chaos Fishing Charters for 18 years, is among the first anglers to legally catch and cook the Goliath grouper since the federal government protected the species back in 1990.
In late May, Earhart hooked into a 34-inch Goliath that weighed 35 pounds and yielded 15 pounds of filets — enough to feed about 10 people. The fish was within the legal slot limit of 24 to 36 inches, but the species can grow to eight feet long and weigh 800 pounds.
He used a 100-pound test line and a huge hunk of dead-cut bait to entice the fish.
“All of a sudden, you feel a ginormous thump, and the rod just doubles over,” he said of the hookup. “Once you’ve got him, you better be good at playing tug of war.”
After wrestling with the Goliath for a few minutes, Earhart hauled it aboard to the sound of hoots and cheers from his friends. One posted a video of Earhart hoisting up his trophy, which received over 5,000 likes on Instagram.
As for what the fish tastes like, “It was just a perfect filet, and it was really dense,” Earhart said. “It was one of the best groupers I’ve had, and I’ve been fishing for 35 years.”
Because the fish was so thick, he had to bake it an extra 15 minutes longer than a traditional grouper filet. He cooked it with minced garlic and chopped onions, adorned with lemon slices over a bed of mushroom risotto, which he enjoyed with his family.
“Everybody was blowing up my phone trying to get a piece of it,” he said. “It was very good eating — very similar to scamp grouper.”
Landing a Goliath grouper was a prize he’d long sought, but there’s a catch.
The FWC allows only 200 Goliath grouper harvest permits per year. Permits are allocated through a lottery system, with a $10 application fee and a $150 fee for Florida residents, while out-of-state applicants pay $500, according to the FWC.
Despite limited hook-and-line fishing now being legal, the FWC still closely monitors the species. Fishermen are required to report each catch to the state, including its weight, dimensions and a tissue sample. There’s no spearfishing allowed.
Though fishermen like Earhart are excited for a chance to legally keep one, not everyone is happy with the new regulations.
Professional dive operators express concern that relaxed restrictions are a slippery slope toward overfishing.
The Goliath grouper is a huge draw for business, said Ben Galemmo, co-owner of South Florida Diving Headquarters off Pompano Beach.
“The FWC has worked so hard to get their numbers back, and from what we see, they’re just not ready for harvest,” Galemmo said. “Diving around Pompano, you could count them on one hand.”
As for the lottery system and permit cost, Earhart said, “For most people, I wouldn’t say it’s worth it for a 35-pound fish, considering there’s only about 15 pounds of meat.” Then he paused. “They’re very good to eat — Captain John just wants to keep one a little bit larger next season.”
