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A medieval marvel with film-set squares – an expert guide to Dubrovnik
Why go?
It’s no wonder Dubrovnik is so crowded for much of the summer, though recent steps have been taken to try to ease the crush. The cornucopia of gorgeous stone buildings, shimmering paved streets and film-set squares is unmatched in its ability to inspire. The fact that this miniature medieval marvel is entirely ringed by sturdy walls adds hugely to the charm.
Cruise port location
Most ships dock at Port Gruz, a little over a mile from the old town, which can take several larger vessels. Sometimes, smaller ships anchor off the city, taking guests via tender through the walls into the old harbour. There is no more romantic way to enter any city in Europe.
Can I walk to any places of interest?
You can walk into the old town in about half an hour. An attractive inlet just before the entrance to the harbour leads to the city’s marina.
Getting around
Regular buses leave from the cruise terminal to the edge of the walls; there are taxis here too. All cruise lines will run a shuttle service, dropping off passengers close to the Pile Gate, the city’s main entrance. Here is where you’ll find the tourist information office and private vendors offering Game of Thrones tours.
What to see and do
The walled city – it’s a genuine marvel. If you’ve never been, devote at least three hours to its monuments and intricate network of alleys. It is, though, possible to combine time in the city with a coastal cruise, a trip to the seaside town of Cavtat, the countryside region of Konavle or a specialist interest such as biking or wine tasting.
What can I do in four hours or less?
Unless you are in Dubrovnik at the start or end of the cruise season, you’re better off on your own unless you really do want a commentary on what you are seeing. Playing follow-the-guide in a group through the crowds is not much fun.
Enter the city across the drawbridge through the magnificent Pile Gate and you are at the start of Stradun, the emblematic main street. Now walk the ancient walls – the entrance is on your left inside Pile Gate (£14). The two kilometres of intact walls, towers and bastions surround the city, with epic views across red-tiled roofs to the green isle of Lokrum and the blue Adriatic. There are lots of steps, so you’ll need a good degree of fitness. Most cruise lines offer a guided wall walk but it’s preferable to set your own pace.
A short walk outside Pile Gate, the fortress of Lovrijenac, atop a giant rock, attracts surprisingly few visitors (£5.70, or free with City Wall ticket). There are sweeping views from the top ramparts. Almost as essential as exploring the city’s remarkable palaces, churches and monasteries is a trip up the cable car; the station is up behind the back of the old town. The vista down on Dubrovnik’s old town from a high ridge is worth the stinging £17.50 return fare. Most cruise lines will offer an organised Game of Thrones tour but you’ll save money by going direct to one of the independent operators.
What can I do in eight hours or less?
Cruise lines have been clever in devising shore excursion programmes that allow time to wander the old city with a different aspect of the lovely Dalmatian coast. A good option is taking a small boat from the port to view the city from the sea, then being dropped off inside the old harbour for a guided walk (offered by Norwegian Cruise Line among others). Kayaking around the walls is an excellent alternative for the more active (Silversea). Another popular choice, and recommended if the city is very busy, is a coach trip to the medieval seaside town of Cavtat, which may include a boat ride, then an hour or more back in Dubrovnik (Royal Caribbean).
Between Dubrovnik and Cavtat is the Konavle countryside region, ripe with activities such as cycling (Seabourn), wine tasting (Viking Cruises) or a visit to a local family (Princess Cruises). In the opposite direction, Ston is well worth a look. The little town is famed for both its four-mile-long walls and its oysters. Celebrity Cruises runs trips here.
If you are with P&O Cruises or Marella Cruises, consider taking the boat excursion out to the Elaphite Islands not far along the coast. These green and pleasant isles are a respite from the city’s bustle. The border with Bosnia-Herzegovina is not far away and if you’ve been to Dubrovnik before, several lines (including Holland America Line) offer an insightful trip to Mostar, packed with war stories.
On your own, it’s definitely worth taking one of the regular ferries (about £9 return) from the old harbour to Lokrum Island just off the city walls, for a spot of sunbathing and walking among the subtropical vegetation. Oceania Cruises and Regent Seven Seas do yoga trips here and Costa Cruises runs a general excursion.
Eat and drink
The alleys to the upper side of Stradun are filled with restaurant tables, though you’ll probably find better value in the maze on the other side of the ‘main street’. Croatian cuisine is influenced by Italy, Hungary and even Turkey and Dubrovnik also has its fair share of trendy fusion restaurants. To go local, look out for black risotto made with squid ink, various adriatic fish including red snapper, mussels and oysters, filo-pastry savoury pasties and Croatia’s own version of crème brûlée. Croatian wines, both red and white, tend to be very good but the better ones can be pricey. The cafes in the pockets around the cathedral are good spots for a cool beer.
Don’t leave Dubrovnik without…
Sweet treats such as candied orange peel, and pot-pourris with local lavender, can be found in the city’s market and in tourist shops. Embroidered goods can be attractive if they are authentic. You’ll probably come across watercolour artists who sell their works.
Need to know
Safety
Pickpockets are the only reason your visit to Dubrovnik may be spoiled – though watch for some steep prices too. The paved streets are slippery after rain.
Currency
Some shops and restaurants may take euros, but don’t count on this – change your money into kunas at the cruise terminal.
Closures
Some shops may close early on Saturday and all day Sunday, but not those aimed at tourists in the high season. A few museums close on Mondays.
Save money
If you intend to cram in plenty of monuments, buy a Dubrovnik Card (£23.50) from the tourist office or order online at dubrovnikcard.com for a 10 per cent discount. This covers the walls, Lovrijenac Fort, several museums, the Franciscan Monastery and local transport.
Festival crowds
Note that the Dubrovnik Summer Festival of performing arts (July and August) in the old town adds extra fun – but even deeper crowds.