Fjord fiesta - Scanorama

THE SAS MAGAZINE SINCE 1972 

WWW.FLYSAS.COM 

SCANORAMA 

NO.02/2013 

68 Schønnemann 

23 Via del Babuino, Rome 

44 Atlantic Road 

Fjord fiesta 

The world’s CHICAGO most 

The foodie city 

exhilarating drive: 

Trondheim to Ålesund 

on Norway’s west coast 

35 Hotel Formentor 

23 ROME 

Easy street 

26 STOCKHOLM 

Nobel dinners 

35 MAJORCA 

Private island 

68 COPENHAGEN 

Table to dine for 

79 FARO BASEL 

Beach resort Picasso’s par excellence kind of town

design charlotte lynggaard www.olelynggaard.dk 

50 th anniversary celebration 

visit our flagship stores copenhagen city centre: ny østergade 4 

copenhagen airport: nytorv stockholm city centre: hamngatan 11

SCANORAMA 

EDITOR IN CHIEF 

Rikard Lind 

(responsible under Swedish press law) 

SENIOR EDITOR EXECUTIVE EDITOR ART DIRECTOR 

Dan-Marcus Pethrus Graeme Nadasy JohnJohn Wedin 

EDITOR EDITOR ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR/LAYOUT 

Elna Nykänen Andersson Hedvig Andersson Louise Dyhrfort 

MANAGING DIRECTOR PUBLISHER TRANSLATORS 

Lennart Jennische Magnus Lindvall John Ambrose 

e-mail: firstname.lastname@dgcom.se 

www.scanorama.com 

SAS MARKETING DIRECTOR 

Johan Åhlén 

johan.ahlen@sas.se 

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SAS WELCOME 

We have got you covered 

SOMETIMES THINGS GO ACCORDING TO PLAN, sometimes they don’t. 

A business meeting drags on; a sick child needs to be picked up from 

kindergarten. Maybe you want some more time on the slopes or for 

dinner this evening. 

We never know for sure how our week is going to pan out and could 

do with some room for maneuver. Sometimes an earlier or later flight 

could be the key to making everything go smoothly. 

SAS’s timetable is unrivaled in the Nordic region. For instance, every 

week there are 777 flights within Sweden, 160 departures between Oslo 

and Stockholm, and 180 flights linking London with our airports in 

Norway, Denmark and Sweden. In other words, you can always find a 

flight that suits you. 

Not only is Flysas.com the best way to book your next flight – if you 

change your mind, you can get a refund within 24 hours – it is also the 

easiest way to change your flights as rebooking is possible with most 

SAS tickets. 

Maybe you booked this flight months ago, or maybe you switched 

flights just a few hours ago. Either way, welcome onboard. 

Rickard Gustafson 

President and CEO, SAS Group

Star turn: Santiago Calatrava’s Turning 

Torso towers over Västra Hamnen, Malmö 

GO TO MALMÖ 

SCANORAMA 

no. 02/2013 

8 SAS NEWS 

Singapore fling; new Boeings take to the skies; 

Wi-Fi Onboard’s free entertainment channel 

10 SAS FAVORITES 

Game on in Copenhagen 

12 SAS PERKS 

Digital services, from online check-in to 

Facebooking and apps 

14 SAS MOMENTS 

Sign of the times: Bødo 1954 

16 EDITOR’S LETTER 

18 THE HIT LIST 

From David Bowie’s V&A tour to an omelet 

worth riding through Denmark for 

29 THE EXPERT 

The hallmark of a great concierge is when 

guests call you from home 

35 SUITE LIFE 

Majorca’s Hotel Formentor is an island unto itself 

44 FJORD WHEEL DRIVE 

Norway’s west coast highways give the expression 

taking the scenic route a whole new dimension 

61 CITY GUIDE: STOCKHOLM 

Scanorama’s keys to the city 

69 PERFECT TABLES 

Ten restaurants to work up an appetite for 

79 THE WEEKENDER 

It’s not only golfers who should hole up at the 

Vale do Lobo resort on Portugal’s Algarve 

84 WISH YOU WERE HERE 

Free skating on Lake Ånnsjön, Sweden 

97 FLIGHT GUIDE 

SAS Travel Guide; Fleet; Maps; Flysas.com 

SAS takes you to Malmö. 

Book your trip at Flysas.com. Use 

money or your EuroBonus points, 

or combine points and money. 

Taxes and fees apply. 

FOLIO 

Cover photographers: 

Erik Olsson, 

Fredrik Skogkvist, 

Daniel Månsson 

SCANORAMA FEBRUARY 2013 

7

SAS NEWS 

SAS and 

Singapore 

tie the knot 

NETWORK Go to Singapore with 

SAS. As of April a codeshare 

agreement with Singapore Airlines 

will result in five flights a 

week to and from Copenhagen. 

Those traveling on business can 

earn SAS Credits on both this 

and other Singapore Airlines 

destinations. 

The Goddess of Mercy Temple, 

Singapore 

Benedicte Viking at Boeing’s 

Renton factory in Seattle 

In-flight 

entertainment 

now online 

TECH A world of entertainment 

awaits you when you connect 

to Wi-Fi Onboard, SAS’s in-flight 

internet connection. The SAS 

Wi-Fi start page gives you free 

access to online booking, podcasts, 

newspapers, the SAS Crew Guide 

and the EuroBonus Shop, with films 

and music coming soon. Share 

your ideas for future content at 

Flysas.com/mysasidea. 

Just landed 

FLEET SAS has taken delivery of a brand-new Boeing 737-800. Benedicte 

Viking is the latest addition to SAS’s fleet and the second of nine Boeing 

737-800s bought by the airline. SAS is also phasing out the MD-80. 

Instant 

messenger 

SEVICES Provide your cell phone number 

when booking your ticket for instant 

flight updates. 

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SAS FAVORITES 

This month in 

Copenhagen 

Denmark’s capital is on top 

of its game just now and not 

only food-wise 

ART: The Design Museum’s exhibition 

of more than 400 LP sleeves charts the 

evolution of cover art, from the 1950s to 

today’s vinyl revival. Through March 10. 

www.designmuseum.dk 

SHOPPING: With its fashion boutiques, 

design stores, cafés and chocolatiers, 

Gammel Kongevej in fashionable Frederiksberg 

is a stylish alternative to the city’s more 

pedestrian shopping malls. 

DINING: If you don’t get a shot at Noma 

the tasting menu at Geranium, the Michelinstarred 

restaurant managed by Bocuse 

d’Or winner Rasmus Kofoed at the national 

soccer stadium in Fælledparken, includes 

lobster with pickled elderflowers, langoustine, 

frozen herb tea and pine needles. 

www.geranium.dk 

Copenhagen’s streets are lined with small boutiques 

such as Jægersborggade’s Keramiker Inge Vincents 

GO TO COPENHAGEN Copenhagen is SAS’s gateway to Denmark. 

Book your trip at www.flysas.com. Use money or 

your Eurobonus points, or combine points or money. 

JEFF RICHT 


MEET OUR WOMAN IN 

HONG KONG 

The middle class in China is growing, and is becoming 

increasingly prosperous as well. One effect of this 

development is that the Chinese 

consumers put more and 

more meat products in their 

shopping baskets. 

“As an example,” says Louisa 

Lo, “the market for sausages 

is growing, and the demand for 

quality sausages is growing 

even faster.” 

Based on her advice, Danske 

Invest chose to invest in a local 

sausage skin manufacturer. 

Company meetings in Cantonese 

In the home region of the sausage skin company, the 

population speaks Cantonese instead of China’s 

official language, Mandarin. 

“It was an advantage for the equity team that we 

spoke the local language. When we communicate with 

Louisa Lo sees it all, when Chinese 

skyscrapers sprout and the shops 

line their shelves with new and 

different products. She applies this 

experience daily as part of the equity 

team advising Danske Invest on 

investments in China. 

senior executives in their native tongue, we reduce the 

risk of misunderstandings and the answers we get are 

more detailed.” 

Specialist knowledge 

strengthens market position 

Through the meetings Louisa Lo 

gained insight into some of the 

processes and patents developed 

by the company. 

“The sausage manufacturer 

produces high quality products 

and is very competitive to both 

domestic and foreign competitors.” 

With that in mind, she estimates that the company 

will benefit from a market, likely to see significant 

growth over the next couple of years. 

Meet Louisa Lo and other investment experts at 

danskeinvest.com. 

Knowledge at work

SAS PERKS 

Make the 

connection 

TECH From online check-in 

and Smart Pass to in-flight 

Wi-Fi, SAS's digital services 

take you from booking to 

landing, and beyond. What's 

more, the new SAS app puts 

it all at your fingertips. Stay 

connected at Flysas.com 

Flysas.com 

Book your tickets, hotel and 

hire car, get the latest flight 

information and visit the 

EuroBonus Shop. 

My SAS Idea 

Share your experiences of flying 

with SAS and suggest improvements 

to the services it offers at 

Mysasidea.flysas.net. 

Check-in 

Check in online (using your cell phone if you 

wish) or at the airport using self-service 

kiosks or check-in desks. Use SAS Smart 

Pass, a sticker you attach to your phone, at 

check-in, security and the gate. 

Social media 

Talk to SAS and get the latest news 

and updates via Facebook, YouTube 

and Twitter. 

The SAS app 

Always have your 

details to hand for 

faster booking and 

check-in. The app 

simplifies payments 

in points and cash, 

lists upcoming 

trips and live flight 

updates. It also 

functions as a digital 

Euro Bonus card. 

In-flight Wi-Fi and telephony 

Wi-Fi Onboard is available on all 

SAS flights within Europe, allowing 

passengers to stay in touch with 

friends, family and colleagues on the 

ground. Cell phone trials could also 

result in passengers being allowed to 

make calls and send text messages. 

Illustration: Brick for Dutch Uncle 


SAS MOMENTS 

Follow 

the signs 

THIS SIGNPOST WAS put up a few days before SAS became 

the world’s first airline to fly over the Arctic en route 

to Tokyo. That flight was from Oslo and took 34 hours 

and 20 minutes, with stopovers in Bodø, northern Norway, 

and Fairbanks and Shemya Island, Alaska. The SAS 

Douglas DC-6B “Leif Viking” took off from Oslo on May 

24, 1954, and flew via Bodø across the North Pole to 

Fairbanks and Shemya Island, landing in Tokyo two days 

later. The flight was operated by SAS for Norway’s Ministry 

of Defense and was carrying soldiers and a relief 

team on their way to a field hospital in Korea. In 1957, 

SAS started flying to Tokyo from Copenhagen, a route 

still in operation today. The first eight flights on the then 

36-hour journey also had a stopover in Bodø. In October 

1960, SAS introduced the DC-8-33, reducing the 

flight time to 16 hours. The signpost at Bodø Airport still 

stands, indicating the old flight times to SAS destinations 

around the globe. 

HEDVIG ANDERSSON 

1954, BODØ AIRPORT, NORWAY 

A young SAS passenger checks flight times 

on the one-of-a-kind destination board 


SAS ARCHIVE

THE EDITOR 

You can see what 

Kerouac was driving at 

Z 

urich Airport is a favorite of 

mine. Sure, the city it serves is 

nice enough but it is also a gateway 

to so much more. On arrival 

I often slip into a familiar pattern: pick 

up baggage, call into Sprüngli for a couple 

of bündnerfleisch (air-dried beef ) and 

Gruyère cheese sandwiches, hire a car 

and head for the Alps, to Klosters and the 

world’s best small hotel (Chesa Grischuna) 

or the remote farming village of Vals, with 

its wonderfully incongruous mix of goat 

sheds and cutting-edge spa. 

I have always liked the expression “on 

the road” for its connotations of openness, 

possibility, an unwritten page in asphalt. 

As a child, I dreamed of being a truck 

driver, with the continent as my workplace, 

before fantasies of becoming a legendary 

globe-trotting correspondent 

took hold. I remember reading a story in a 

motoring magazine about an architect in 

Sweden who drove his Alfa Romeo every 

year down to the house he had built in 

Switzerland. South, to the continent, in 

an open-topped sports car, pigskin gloves 

wrapped around the wooden steering 

wheel – does life get any better than that? 

When I look back, many of my more 

memorable journeys have been road 

trips: that time I drove across Switzerland 

RIKARD LIND 

Editor in chief 

Visit us online at 

www.scanorama.com 

and Austria, over snow-covered plains 

and mountains, with exciting new design 

hotels as milestones; a few days surfing 

between San Diego and San Francisco 

along California’s Pacific Coast Highway; 

north from Barcelona through Costa Brava 

‘ON THE ROAD’ 

MAKES ME THINK 

OF AN UNWRITTEN 

PAGE IN ASPHALT 

across the French border into the Pyrenees 

where, standing on the side of the 

road, I enjoyed the most diabolical mountain 

stage of the Tour de France, and all the 

fanfare and spectacle that surrounds the 

world’s biggest bike race; driving around 

the lakes of northern Italy in a Maserati; or 

through Suffolk and Norfolk in the east of 

England in a grumbling Aston Martin V8. 

What I like most is that feeling of complete 

freedom. You can do whatever you 

want. What will we find if we turn down 

this back road? What happens if we just 

keep driving? Curiosity and improvisation 

can lead to unimagined rewards. 

In this issue, we explore the Atlantic 

Road and Trollstigen between Trondheim 

and Ålesund in western Norway – probably 

the world’s most beautiful stretch of 

road, a stunning fjord-shaped landscape. 

As you can see, Scanorama has also 

taken a new direction. We have added a 

bunch of features – The Expert, Suite Life 

and a city guide with carefully considered 

tips – which you will shortly be able to flick 

through on your iPad. 

Happy travels. See you in March. 

Trollstigen, Fjord Wheel Drive, page 44 

Reynards, The Wythe Hotel, page 18 

CONTRIBUTOR: DANIEL MÅNSSON, PHOTOGRAPHER 

For this issue, you stayed at the Hotel 

Formentor on Majorca. What was it like? 

It was opened by an eccentric Argentine 

intellectual, Adán Diehl, in 1929. Refurbished 

in the 1970s, the hotel seems to 

be stuck in an aesthetic limbo between 

its early 20th-century exterior and Seventies 

interior. The new owners have yet to 

decide whether to redo it all, or keep it as 

it is. 

So you didn’t spend a lot of time in your 

room then? 

The surroundings are the draw at this 

hotel. The 

scenery is just 

stunning, with 

wonderful views 

of Pollença Bay. 

It’s incredibly 

beautiful and 

peaceful. The 

hotel’s garden 

stretches all the 

way down to the 

water. Sitting on the terrace in the afternoon 

you can see why Winston Churchill 

and Grace Kelly wanted to recharge their 

batteries there. 

Who goes there now? 

Many celebrities still do, as well as those 

looking to unwind with good food, a glass 

of wine and long walks. It’s a true retreat; 

the pace of life is very slow. 

Would you go back? 

Since I’m into biking and Majorca is great 

for that, I would. It’s hilly, has good roads 

and a mild climate. Many national teams 

practice there, with several races held on 

the island every year. 

ERIK OLSSON, COURTESY OF WYTHE HOTEL 


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Bowie mania, London Hermès to a tea, Paris Unbeatable omelet, Århus 

Via Roma, Rome Pizza hut, hut, hut, Chicago Oh so Praktikal, Barcelona 

Velvet revolution, Nice Nobel dinners, Stockholm Party temple, Athens 

The Hit List 

Editor RIKARD LIND 

Waterfront development ( from top): 

The terrace bar is housed in a glass box on the 

roof of the old cooperage; the farm-to-table 

restaurant Reynards; window walls and poured 

concrete floors give the rooms a factory look 

Wythe Hotel 

80 Wythe Avenue, Brooklyn, New York, USA. 

Tel: +1 718 460 8000. www.wythehotel.com 

1HOTELS Williamsburg, Brooklyn’s 

answer to the East Village, 

has finally got the kind of boutique 

hotel it deserves: a cathedral of hipsterdom 

repurposed from an old waterfront caskmaking 

factory. The de rigueur terrace bar 

is housed in a glass box roof extension with 

killer views of Midtown. Set among graffitied 

walls and old warehouses on the corner 

of Wythe Avenue and North 11th Street, 

just doors from vintage El Dorado Beacon’s 

Closet, the Brooklyn Brewery and Brooklyn 

Bowl, the Wythe Hotel is the brainchild of 

property developer Jed Walentas, Australian 

hotelier Peter Lawrence, and Brooklyn 

restaurateur Andrew Tarlow (Diner and 

Inndustrial chic 

Marlow & Sons) whose tried-and-tested 

farm-to-table concept stokes the woodfired 

Reynards downstairs. The hotel has 

already been dubbed “the nicest thing ever 

built in Williamsburg” by The New York 

Observer. No wonder – the original interior 

was gutted and its wooden insides used for 

the beds and ceilings, with exposed brick, 

concrete floors, and window walls offset by 

custom wallpaper and art commissioned 

from Duke Riley, Espo, and Tom Fruin. 

Rooms from €135. 

KARIN STRÖM 

GO TO NEW YORK SAS takes you to New York. 

Book at www.flysas.com. Round-trips to New York start 

at 60,000 EuroBonus points from airports in Scandinavia 

and Finland. Taxes and fees apply, from €63. 

COURTESY OF THE WYTHE HOTEL 


We make our members feel like VIPs 

wherever they are in the world. 

With my Gold Status I feel like one too, 

from being the first to check in, 

to being the first to take my seat on the plane. 

I’ve earned it. 

Fiona Foxon – Global Brand Ambassador to the Quintessentially Group, 

and Star Alliance Gold Status. 

staralliance.com 

Discover the 

Gold Status feeling

David Bowie Is 

Victoria and Albert Museum 

Cromwell Road, London, England. 

March 23-July 28. 

www.vam.ac.uk 

Space oddity: Striped bodysuit 

for Aladdin Sane tour, 1973. 

Design by Kansai Yamamoto. 

Photograph by Masayoshi Sukita 

David Bowie 

and William 

Burroughs, 1974. 

Photograph by 

Terry O’Neill. 

Hand-colouring 

by David Bowie 

COURTESY OF THE THIEF 


THE HIT LIST 

© SUKITA/THE DAVID BOWIE ARCHIVE 2012, PAW GISSEL 

3 

Lapping 

it up 

TEAROOMS Hermès has made 

quite a splash with its latest boutique, a 

beautiful art-deco bathhouse on Paris’s Left 

Bank. But before you dive into the iconic 

scarves, leatherwork, cashmere blankets 

and Christophe Lemaire ready-to-wear, we 

suggest you test the water with a cup of 

Darjeeling Puttabong Clonal Queen tea at 

Le Plongeoir. Ladies come here to lunch on 

tarte fine de cabillaud et févettes à la tomate 

(cod cakes with fava beans and tomato) or 

homard rôti à la verveine artichaut poivrade et 

abricot moelleux (roasted lobster à la Verveine 

with artichokes and sweet apricot). 

But if you’re anything like us, you’ll go for 

the cart with pastries and cakes. The pistachio 

and raspberry financier is to die for, 

and there’s a cake with a croissant-like base 

topped with lemon crème flavored with 

basil and meringue. Should you get the 

urge to take home your bone china teacup, 

it costs €170. 

KARINA ERICSSON WÄRN 

Le Plongeoir Chez Hermès 

17 Rue de Sevrès, 6ème, Paris, France. 

Tel: +33 1 42 22 05 39. Métro: Sèvres-Babylone. 

GO TO PARIS SAS takes you to Paris. Book your 

trip at www.flysas.com. Round-trips to Paris start at 

30,000 EuroBonus points from airports in Scandinavia 


A life on Mars 

EXHIBITIONS When David Bowie performed 

Starman from the album The Rise and Fall of 

Ziggy Stardust and the Spiders from Mars on 

the BBC chart show Top of The Pops on July 

6, 1972, he changed the face of rock forever. 

With his flame-red mullet, jumpsuit and 

space boots, he gave the recession-weary 

country a massive jolt, as if this androgynous 

being had indeed beamed down from 

another planet. Bowie was to become the 

defining style icon of the 1970s, changing 

his image with each new album – a neat 

trick later picked up by Madonna and Lady 

Gaga. He never stood still, nor did he throw 

anything away it seems. Now the Victoria 

and Albert Museum has been given 

unprecedented access to the David Bowie 

Archive – the singer’s own 60,000-strong 

collection of glam rock memorabilia – for 

next month’s first-ever retrospective of 

one of British rock’s most stellar careers. 

Among the finds unearthed for the David 

INNS Ask any Dane and they will have heard 

of Hvidsten Kro, an old coaching inn midway 

between Århus and Aalborg. During 

World War II, the pub was the center of 

operations for the Hvidsten Gruppen, the 

Danish Resistance movement led by the 

grandparents of the current owner, Søren 

Fiil, whose story was recently made into a 

film. But that’s not the only reason. People 

come here from far and wide for the bacon 

and chive omelet with homemade mustard 

and rye bread that has been in the family 

for generations. (We have a feeling the 

secret may be in the mustard.) The omelet 

is not the only thing that’s stayed the same 

Bowie Is exhibition by co-curator Geoffrey 

Marsh is a collage of the lyrics for Blackout 

from the album Heroes (1977), which Bowie 

wrote using William Burroughs’ cut-up 

technique. There’s also a great portrait of 

the singer with the Beatnik. 

“Bowie is a phenomenal archivist,” 

Marsh says. “Every item, be it a stage costume 

or sheet of lyrics, is catalogued and 

kept in museum-like conditions.” 

Altogether there will be 300 objects on 

display, including stage costumes, cover 

art, photographs and films. The perfect 

refresher course given his latest album, The 

Next Day – his first for a decade – is set to 

come out the same month. Admission: €17. 

MICHAEL DEE 

4Centuries-old omelet 

GO TO LONDON SAS takes you to London. 

Book your trip at www.flysas.com. Round-trips 

to London start at 30,000 EuroBonus points from 

airports in Scandinavia and Finland. Taxes and 

fees apply, from €69. 

since the Fiils took over almost 150 years 

ago. The walls are lined with hunting trophies 

and other curios collected by Søren’s 

grandfather, Marius, and the waitstaff wear 

folk dress just like they did in the old days. 

€13.50. 

MIA LJUNGBERG NEVADO 

Hvidsten Kro 

Mariagervej 450, Spentrup, Denmark. Tel: + 45 86 

47 70 22. Rooms from €65. www.hvidstenkro.dk 

GO TO ÅRHUS SAS takes you to Århus. Book your 

trip at www.flysas.com. Use money or your Euro- 

Bonus points, or both. 

SCANORAMA FEBRUARY 2013 21

Explore the many 

colours and change 

the look of your 

piece of Changeling. 

Elegant, feminine, 

powerful, sensual, 

sophisticated, casual, 

delicate or fun 

...be creative 

DENMARK 

SJÆLLAND: Frederikssund: Carlo Christiansen Herlev: Aage Holmer Holbæk: Christinas Guld og Sølv 

København K: Stenstrup Juveler København S: Anni Jensen Lyngby: Boutique d’Or Roskilde: Andersen & Enig 

FYN: Ringe: Bona Dea, 

JYLLAND: Haderslev: Poul Normann Horsens: Mørup Ure-Guld Kolding: Lykkes Guld & Sølv, 

Randers: Randers Storcenter: Mørup Ure-Guld 

SWEDEN 

Alingsås: Smycka Guld i Alingsås Borås: Smycka Guld Gnosjö: Ur & Guld 

Göteborg: Guldsmedsmästarn / Wranges Juvelerare Halmstad: Guld & Silversmide Höganäs: Guld-shop 

Karlstad: Guld & Silverdesign Malmö: Prahls Guld & Juveler Skellefteå: City Guld, 

Uppsala: Smyckeboden Ystad: Reutners Guld 

NORWAY 

BODØ:Opal Gullsmedforretning DRAMMEN:Gullsmed Horgen Flisa: Gullsmed Janne-Mari A/S 

GJØVIK:Gjøvik Gullsmedforretning Grimstad: Joh. Gundersen AS Hamar: J. Sten Bøe OSLO, :Gullmesteren 

Tromsø: Pyramiden Gull og Ur Trondheim: G. Pedersen TØNSBERG:Gullsmed Ragnar Rønning 

Ålesund: John Stamnæss A/S / J.S. Refnæs A/S 

www.perborupdesign.dk

5La 

strada 

STREET LIFE In ever-chaotic Rome, it is a 

blessing sometimes to find a calm, central 

microcosm of the city where you can hang 

out for a while. Via del Babuino is an ideal 

choice, an exciting street between two of 

the city’s natural meeting points, Piazza di 

Spagna and Piazza del Popolo. 

The stores here stand out, a perfect mix 

of old and new. You have the smaller fashion 

houses all in a row, such as Etro, Costume 

National, Aspesi and Hogan. Refined 

antique stores sit alongside design boutiques. 

And don’t forget the old barbershop 

where Federico Fellini was a regular and 

you can still get a close shave. 

The city’s pulse slows here, not least 

Hotel de Russie 

Via del Babuino 

 


THE HIT LIST 

Aspesi 

Canova Tadolini 

thanks to the traffic-reduction measures. 

You could easily while away the best part 

of your day without too much effort. Start 

with an espresso and a newspaper at sculptor 

Antonio Canova’s old workshop, where 

you can also grab a light lunch. Late afternoon 

there’s drinks at the Hotel de Russie, 

whose lush garden is one of Rome’s hidden 

treasures. 

From there you can continue onto Piazza 

del Popolo, where it’s hard to choose which 

of the two bars to visit, Canova or Rosati. 

We opt for the latter and order some Campari 

with green olives, a classic Roman 

ritual. 

PETER LOEWE 

GO TO ROME SAS takes you to Rome. Book your 

trip at www.flysas.com. Round-trips to Rome start at 



THE FACT SHEET 

Canova Tadolini 

Sculptor Antonio Canova’s former studio is 

today one of the city’s most unusual barcafés. 

The walls are lined with countless 

preparatory models. There’s a restaurant too. 

Closes early. 

Via del Babuino 150. www.canovatadolini.com 

Hotel de Russie 

Enjoy an espresso or one of Massimo 

D’Addezio’s cocktails in the Stravinskij Bar, 

perhaps over a light lunch. For those who want 

dinner there’s Le Jardin de Russie, run by chef 

Fulvio Pierangelini, overlooking the hotel’s 

“secret garden.” The bar closes at 1am. 

Via del Babuino 9. Tel: +39 06 32 8881. 

www.hotelderussie.it 

Babuino 181 

This boutique apartment hotel offers luxury 

suites in a three-story palazzo. Rooms 

from €330. 

Via del Babuino 181. www.romeluxurysuites.com 

Hotel Piranesi 

Four-star hotel within a 19th-century palazzo 

designed by Giuseppe Valadier. Best of all is the 

roof garden, with its sun chairs and view across 

the neighborhood and up toward the Pincio hill. 


Via del Babuino 196. www.hotelpiranesi.com 

Flos 

Light store owned by the company that 

switched the world onto Achille and Pier Giacomo 

Castiglioni, whose designs include the 

Arco and Taccia lamps. Philippe Starck dominates 

among the new names. 

Via del Babuino 84. www.flos.com 

Vhernier 

Contemporary jeweler whose elegant and 

sophisticated pieces are inspired by architecture, 

art and design. 

Via del Babuino 105. www.vhernier.it 

Antonio 

One of the few remaining old-school barbers, 

Signor Antonio has been plying his trade here 

since 1956. A haircut costs €25, shave included. 

Closed Sundays and Mondays. 

Via del Babuino 12. 

Fashion 

Smaller labels that don’t want to disappear 

among the giants of Via Condotti set up on Via 

del Babuino instead. Etro (No.102) is renowned 

for its colorful fabrics; Kiton (No.130) for menswear, 

where all the suits are hand-sewn; Osklen 

(No.52) for chic sportswear with a Brazilian 

twist; Aspesi (No.145) for stylish ward robe 

staples, particularly outerwear; Hogan for shoes 

and bags (No.110); and Costume National 

(No.106) for avant-garde southern Italian. 

ERIK OLSSON 


MARTIN ADOLFSSON, COURTESY OF PRAKTIK RAMBLA, ALBERTO MORETTI 

6Get 

a pizza 

the action 

BARS Sport, pizza, beer… Three Chicago 

enthusiasms come together at Piece, a 

pizza-serving microbrewery sports bar in 

the city’s fashionable Wicker Park neighborhood. 

The pizzas are thin-crust, which 

is an important detail in Chicago where the 

deep-pan or thin-crust debate can keep 

people at loggerheads for hours. The craft 

beers, from the Dark-n-Curvy Dunkelweizen 

(wheat ale) to the Dysfunctionale (pale 

ale), have won a slew of awards, including 

gold medals at the Great American Beer 

Festival and the World Beer Cup. At first 

glance the large, modern space looks like 

any other sports bar, with 11 plasma screens 

showing a range of sports and diners leaping 

to their feet to cheer or bemoan their 

team’s performance. What sets it apart is 

the food and drink. Even people who don’t 

know the difference between the Bulls and 

the White Sox flock here. Be sure to book, 

especially on weekends. 

STEPHEN WHITLOCK 

Piece Brewery & Pizzeria 

1927 West North Avenue, Chicago, USA. 

Tel: +1 773 772 4422. www.piecechicago.com 

Blue suede shoo-in 

Praktikally a bargain 

HOTELS Nowadays surrounded by smart restaurants 

and sophisticated bars, the Praktik 

Rambla was built for one of the nouveau 

riche families who collected on the outskirts 

of Barcelona’s old town at the turn of 

the 19th century. The palatial mansion was 

designed by Francesc de Paula del Villar i 

Carmona, who as diocesan architect to the 

city was responsible for several extravagant 

churches including part of the Montserrat 

monastery – and there’s a distinct whiff 

of the belle epoque as you stroll down the 

champagne-colored entryway to reception. 

Lavish details abound, from the curlicues 

of Carmona’s modernist relief on the walls 

of the stairwell and landings to the carved 

wooden doors and elaborately tiled floors 

of each bedroom. Split into standard (small, 

with high ceilings) and superior (large, with 

private terraces or decorative fireplaces), all 

GO TO CHICAGO SAS takes you to Chicago. 

Book your trip at www.flysas.com. Round-trips 

to Chicago start at 60,000 EuroBonus points from 

airports in Scandinavia and Finland. Taxes and fees 

apply, from €63. 

8SHOES For those looking to jazz 

up their shoe rack, Arfango 

loafers are just the trick. The 

velvet slip-ons have already struck a chord 

with Hollywood and rock royalty (from 

Morgan Freeman and Ryan Gosling to Rolling 

Stones guitarist Ronnie Wood, who has 

a pair of red velvet numbers). 

Once a favorite of Italian aristocrats, the 

company founded in Florence in 1902 lost 

its way after peaking in the Swinging Sixties 

but has since been brought to heel by poloplaying 

owner-creative director Alberto 

Moretti, whose signature loafer is nowadays 

a must for any self-respecting dandy. 

The handmade shoes are instantly recognizable 

for their shimmering silk velvet, 

exquisite stitching and tassels or tailored 

leather piping trims. 

Whether you want to put your best foot 

forward in black or brown, or channel your 

inner Dorian Gray in red, purple or royal 

blue, we can’t think of a more fitting location 

to pick up a pair than its flagship store 

in Saint-Tropez. 

LISA ROSMAN 

GO TO SAINT-TROPEZ SAS takes you to Nice. 

Book your trip at www.flysas.com. Use money or 

your EuroBonus points, or both. 

7Praktik Rambla 

Rambla de Catalunya 27, 

Barcelona, Spain. 

Tel: +34 933 436 690. 

www.hotelpraktikrambla.com 

37 rooms go big on the things that matter, 

such as generously proportioned beds and 

cloud-like linens, walk-in power showers 

and free Wi-Fi. 

Big on personality it may be, but this 

hotel is all about practicality and frills are 

kept to a minimum. There is no bar or restaurant 

– breakfast is served in the Piscolabis 

tapas bar next door – but you’re welcome 

to sip your own wine curled up on 

the white leather banquette that lines the 

half-moon bay window of an elegant lounge 

and library, or cool off beneath the outdoor 

showers of the lushly planted, wood decked 

terrace. Rooms from €80. 

TARA STEVENS 

GO TO BARCELONA SAS takes you to Barcelona. 

Book your trip at www.flysas.com. Round-trips to 

Barcelona start at 40,000 EuroBonus points from 



Nice treads: The Arfango Lapo (€435) is named 

for Fiat scion Lapo Elkann 

Arfango 

35 Rue Gambetta, Saint-Tropez, France. 

www.arfango.com 


THE HIT LIST 

9Stadshuskällaren 

Hantverkargatan 1, Stockholm, Sweden 

Tel: +46 8 586 218 30. 

www.stadshuskallarensthlm.se 

Dine like a Nobel prizewinner 

RESTAURANTS Shame there’s no such thing 

as a Nobel Prize for interior design otherwise 

Jonas Bohlin of Riche and Sturehof 

fame would be odds-on favorite. We love 

what he’s done with Stadshuskällaren, the 

basement restaurant of Stockholm City Hall 

whose Blue Hall is the venue for the Nobel 

Banquet, despite the constraints that come 

with a listed building. The candlelit vaults 

featuring murals depicting scenes from Carl 

Michael Bellman’s poems now have copper 

table lamps – a spin on Bohlin’s signature 

Kvist pendant light – and bespoke chairs 

modeled on the originals. Here you can 

have your own Nobel Banquet, with menus 

dating from the first awards ceremony in 

1901 (poached fillet of brill with truffles 

and white wine sauce; oven-roasted fillet of 

beef Imperial; fried hazel-hen with Madeira 

sauce; Nobel parfait; fruit tartlet) up to the 

present day (marinated Arctic char with 

cauliflower terrine, Kalix bleak roe and dill 

mayonnaise; pheasant with chanterelles, 

poached pear, winter vegetables, almond 

potato purée and red wine gravy; trilogy of 

cherries, pistachio mascarpone and black 

cherry sorbet). 

HEDVIG ANDERSSON 

GO TO STOCKHOLM Stockholm is SAS’s gateway to Sweden. Book your trip at www.flysas.com. Use money or your EuroBonus points, or combine points and money. 

10Baraonda 

Tsoha 43, Ambelokipi, Athens, Greece. 

Tel: +30 210 644 4308. 

www.baraonda.gr 

One big fat Greek party 

NIGHTLIFE Red velvet curtains, Chesterfield 

sofas and armchairs, baroque chandeliers, 

gold candelabras – they don’t do 

things by half at Baraonda, one of Athen’s 

most glamorous nightspots. This unapologetically 

decadent restaurant-club attracts 

well-heeled Athenians dressed to impress 

in stilettos and fur trimming or broadshouldered 

suits. The bar, which bridges the 

dining room and dance floor, is the place 

for cocktails and dangling those long legs. 

There’s also a garden out back where you 

can schmooze before shaking loose. In the 

kitchen, acclaimed chef Michalis Dounetas 

plates up sautéed foie gras escalope with 

quail breast in calvados sauce and black 

risotto with langoustines and gold leaf (€30 

each). To follow there’s a warm Valrhona 

chocolate soufflé with Madagascar vanilla 

ice cream. 

SOPHIA GENITZ 

GO TO ATHENS SAS takes you to Athens. Book 

your trip at www.flysas.com. Round-trips to Athens 

start at 40,000 EuroBonus points from airports 

in Scandinavia and Finland. Taxes and fees apply, 

from €54. 

SUSANNA COURTESY BLÅVARG OF STADSHUSKÄLLAREN 


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THE EXPERT 

Mr Fix It 

Concierge extraordinaire 

Jean-Luc Jean is so well 

connected that politicians and 

celebrities call on his services 

even when they have checked out 

Words by Karina Ericsson Wärn 

Photographs by Håkan Elofsson 

AT A GLANCE 

Name: Jean-Luc Jean 

Age: 58 

Profession: Head concierge 

Workplace: Hôtel Lutetia. 45 Boulevard Raspail, 

Paris, France. Tel: +33 1 49 54 46 46. 

Rooms from €220. www.lutetia-paris.com 

On December 9, 1970, a 

16-year-old Jean-Luc Jean 

arrived for his first day of 

work at the four-star Hôtel 

Lutetia on Paris’s Left Bank. Today, after 

stints in the kitchens and as a doorman, 

he’s worked his way up to head concierge, 

a position in which he’s expected 

to take care of the hotel’s most important 

guests, and be an expert on everything 

from Paris’s spidery Metro to stain 

removal. 

A concierge always has a well-guarded 

address book. How many phone numbers 

does yours contain? 

I’m not sure really. It has everyone from 

top politicians and cooks at Michelinstarred 

restaurants to car mechanics and 

dentists who work 24-7. I used to have 

a classic address book in which I wrote 

down everything with a pen, but today I 

have an electronic one. I make a backup of 

it at home every day since losing all that 

information would be catastrophic. 

Whose number wouldn’t you want 

to lose? 

It belongs to a French politician. I can’t 

name him of course, but he’s one of the 

really big fish, or was anyway. He’s old 

now and doesn’t work anymore, but for 

many years he would come here every 

Tuesday and stay for a night or two, 

though not necessarily on business. His 

number is invaluable if someone leaves 

their computer behind in a cab. There’s 

no point just calling the police – they 

need a push from above to make sure it 

is returned immediately. His number fixes 

things like that. 

What’s the strangest request you 

have had? 

It would be from a regular who called 

from his home in California for a tarte 

tatin. I said no problem, because we have 

the best bakery in Paris just around the 

corner: Poîlane [8 Rue Cherche-Midi. 

www.poilane.com]. It turned out he 

needed 84 single portions. They were 

baked and shipped to California that very 

day. 

What’s the difference between a good 

concierge and a bad one? 

A good concierge is discreet, sees everything 

– and I mean everything – but never 

breathes a word about it. Ever. 

What do you like most about your job? 

I never know what’s going to happen 

from one day to the next. Of course, I 

know in advance who will be checking in 


THE EXPERT 

Good to know: Jean Luc-Jean 

counts Charles Aznavour 

(below) among his fans 

and roughly when. Brad Pitt, Jerry Hall, 

Jacques Chirac, Mick Jagger, Jane Fonda, 

Charles Aznavour and Françoise Sagan 

have all signed my Livre D’Or [guest book]. 

Because I have been here for more than 

40 years many of the regulars are friends. 

The other day, Juliette Gréco [the actress 

and singer] got in touch and wanted help 

with something – I can’t tell you what. It 

was an honor to be of assistance. 

Paris for romantics 

Jean-Luc Jean’s top tips for sweeping your sweetheart off their feet 

THAT OLD BLACK MAGIC 

The Left Bank is the neighborhood 

of artists, dandies and 

intellectuals. Drink in the bohemian 

surroundings with an 

espresso outside either 

Café de Flore (172 Boulevard 

Saint-Germain. www.cafedeflore.fr) 

or Les Deux Magots 

(6 Place Saint-Germain des Prés. 

www.lesdeuxmagots.fr). 

THE KISS 

Let’s say May is the best time for 

a romantic stroll. In that case, 

I would recommend the pride 

of the Left Bank, the Jardin du 

Luxem bourg. Lush and quiet, it is 

ideal for couples who just want 

to hold hands and kiss. 

Rue de Vaugirard, 6ème. 

THE SURPRISE GIFT 

You can never go wrong with 

perfume. Right across from the 

hotel, the House of Guerlain has 

a beautiful boutique. Its flagship 

fragrance is Shalimar. 

29 Rue de Sèvres, 6ème. 

www.guerlain.com 

THE CANDLELIT DINNER 

La Truffière in the Latin Quarter 

has a vaulted dining room and, 

as the name suggests, a menu 

fragrant with truffle. It also has 

an incredible wine cellar, with a 

2008 Domaine Armand Rousseau 

Clos de Ruchottes (€480) 

among its treasures. 

4 Rue Blainville, 5ème. 

Tel: +33 1 46 33 29 82. 

www.la-truffiere.fr 

THE NIGHTCAP 

La Coupole in Montparnasse is 

a lively brasserie with a great 

atmosphere. The classic dish is 

steak frites, but you should of 

course go for the shellfish. 

102 Boulevard du Montparnasse, 

14ème. 

Tel: +33 1 43 20 14 20. 

www.lacoupole-paris.com 

GO TO PARIS SAS takes 

you to Paris. Book your 

trip at www.flysas.com. 

Round-trips to Paris start 

at 30,000 EuroBonus 

points. Taxes and fees 



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SUITE LIFE 

CAPE 

Words by MARCUS JOONS 

CRUSADER 

Photographs by DANIEL MÅNSSON 

MAJORCA, SPAIN The grandiose Hotel Formentor at 

the northernmost tip of the island has always been 

a world unto itself 


SUITE LIFE 

The most beautiful places are 

often the hardest to reach. About 

an hour’s drive north of Palma’s 

airport, you come to a massif that 

seems to climb out of nothing, a bit 

like the rock of Gibraltar at Spain’s southernmost 

tip. 

Here, away from Majorca’s sun-bleached 

plains and the clusters of honey-and-saffron 

houses that make up its sleepy villages, is the 

island’s northernmost point, the dramatic Cap de 

Formentor. 

As we navigate the cape’s cartoonish hairpin 

bends, with only a flimsy rail to stop us sailing 

off the cliff into the sea, we snatch glimpses of 

the white-flecked rocks stood sentry in the bay 

below. After what seems like an eternity (but is 

really only 10 minutes), the palatial Hotel Formentor 

appears cocooned among the pine trees 

like a brilliant white pearl, with its tennis courts, 

stables, gardens, restaurants, cocktail bars, and 

one of Majorca’s best sandy beaches. 

By the terrace restaurant El Colomer a pianist 

plays a slow version of Over the Rainbow for 

guests arriving to dinner. There are photographs 

of the celebrities who have checked into the hotel 

over the years: Winston Churchill, the Dalai 

Lama, members of the Spanish and Monacan 

royal families – Prince Rainier and Grace Kelly 

honeymooned here – Julio Iglesias… 

The only character missing among the vacationing 

white-haired Charlie Chaplins, uniformed 

Francos and chic Jane Birkins is the man 

who made everywhere from Chicago and Toronto 

to Paris, Pamplona, Key West and Kenya his own: 

Ernest Hemingway. 

I ask a waiter if the author ever stayed here. 

“One moment,” he replies, and goes off to find 

the hotel manager, Tomeu Palau. 

Hemingway was never a guest of the hotel, 

says Palau, who has worked here for more than 

20 years, but he’d probably heard of it given the 

circles in which he moved. “I just don’t think it 

appealed to him. Hemingway was too restless, too 

adventurous. This has always been somewhere 

remote, a place with a life of its own, whatever’s 

happening on the rest of Majorca. People even 

think we speak in slow motion up here.” 

THE HOTEL FORMENTOR opened in 1929. Its founder, 

Adán Diehl, an Argentine millionaire and intellectual, 

was both a dreamer and a risk taker. One 

story tells how en route to Jamaica for his honeymoon 

with his first wife, Delia Del Carril, he decided 

to tempt fate. As their train passed through 

Chile the newlyweds played spin the globe. Diehl 

put a blindfold on his bride who was to stop the 

ball with her quill; wherever she pointed to on 

the map would be their final destination. They 

ended up in Alaska, spending in Carril’s words a 

few months in complete nothingness. 

The couple later moved to Paris, where they 

fell in with the artistic beau monde – Carril 

would study painting under Fernand Léger – 

before eventually going their separate ways. 

It was then that Diehl was invited to Majorca. 

During the 1920s, Palma had grown into a playground 

for the rich thanks to a handful of new 

luxury hotels. Inspired by what he saw, Diehl decided 

to become a hotelier. However, not wanting 

to compete with his newfound friends in Palma 

he instead bought the entire Cap de Formentor 

peninsula, which until then had been inhabited 

by pirates, farmers who forlornly pulled Roman 

plows through the unfertile soil, and a lighthouse 

keeper out on the cape. 

The first thing Diehl did was to build a house 

for himself and his second wife, Maria Elena 

Popolicio. Still standing, modernized and with its 

own private swimming pool and tennis court, it 

is now called the Villa Jardin and costs upward of 

€14,900 a week. When we visit, The Who’s Pete 

Townshend is staying there with his girlfriend, 

Rachel Fuller. 

Diehl’s wife thought that Cap de Formentor 

would be their private paradise, but sitting on the 

beach one day Diehl is said to have declared the 

place “too lovely” not to share with the world. 

“What would you think if I built a grand hotel, 

On call: Receptionist 

Javier Guerra 


SUITE LIFE 

Rise and shine: 

Breakfast is served on the 

terrace at El Colomer 

Home comforts: 

Rooms are fitted out 

with local carpenters’ and 

seamstresses’ handiwork 

 


SUITE LIFE 

made roads and turned this place into the world’s 

prettiest tourist spot?” he ventured. 

It wasn’t a question as such. The blueprints 

for a grand house, big enough for all their friends, 

were already complete. 

EVEN THOUGH the hotel occupies a beautiful 

stretch of beach, the two swimming pools in the 

garden are just as popular with guests when the 

sun is shining (which it does more than 300 days 

a year). An attendant clad completely in white – 

tennis shoes, shorts, polo shirt and cap – is handing 

out towels and putting up parasols for men in 

swimming trunks, Rolexes and Gucci sunglasses, 

their wives sashaying up in the hotel’s bathrobes. 

Most of the guests, like an elderly Scottish 

couple strolling out to the lighthouse, never stray 

from the peninsula during their vacations here. 

“We’re here for two weeks of relaxation. I 

like the convenience of going to Majorca with 

all those millions of flights but at the same time 

you’re not part of the mass tourism in many of 

the villages along the coast. I could stay here 

forever,” the husband says, politely tipping his 

hat in farewell. 

If you overlook the swimming pools – added 

much later – both the hotel and the cape (nowadays 

owned by Marjorca’s Barceló Group) are 

exactly as Diehl imagined them. And that’s despite 

him running the place for a mere five years, 

from 1929 to 1934. By then, the Wall Street Crash 

had taken its toll on Argentina and Spain, and the 

banks that had lent him money for the transformation 

of Cap de Formentor were calling in their 

loans. Diehl had also underestimated the cost of 

running a hotel, and putting on lavish public soirées 

and sailing regattas. There was nothing left. 

In a final, desperate bid, he installed a roulette 

table to try and make some quick cash. But it was 

too late, and the banks seized the property. 

As Palau points out, however, his spirit lives 

on. Diehl got the land surrounding the hotel 

declared a nature reserve. And although the 

rooms have been updated with flat-panel TVs and 

Wi-Fi, they are just as Majorcan as they were 80 

years ago, with pink wallpaper, rustic furniture 

Different strokes for different folks: 

If tennis or mini-golf doesn’t float 

your boat there’s always the beach 

 


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BRING TEXAS LONGHORN HOME

SUITE LIFE 

Key players: Pianist Alex 

Antal and receptionist 

Malena Vives (below) 

from local carpenters, and patchwork curtains of 

veil-like silk woven and sewn by seamstresses in 

the nearby village of Pollença. 

Diehl, whose poems were once published in a 

collection by his compatriot Jorge Luis Borges, 

also initiated a weeklong symposium for artists, 

poets and intellectuals in the Formentor gardens 

called The Week of Wisdom. In the early Thirties, 

large audiences would come to hear the German 

philosopher Hermann Keyserling argue for an 

alternative to his country’s policy of militarism 

(this just before the Nazis took power). Formentor 

has been an intellectual hub ever since. Over 

the years, the hotel and its gardens have hosted 

everything from Catalonian poetry groups to EU 

summits, speeches by the Dalai Lama and peace 

negotiations between the late Palestinian leader 

Yasser Arafat and Israel’s then foreign minister 

Shimon Peres. 

The only thing Palau feels is missing from 

Diehl’s time, and which disappeared when Barceló 

took over six years ago, is dinner dress. Whereas 

men were once required to wear a jacket, tie and 

black shoes, in line with today’s more inclusive 

guest policy the only stipulation is pants. 

At the same time, and also to Palau’s dismay, 

the waiters no longer wear white gloves when 

they serve paella. 

 


LOS&CO Foto: ©Venke Ivarrud 

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SUITE LIFE 

SUITE LIFE 

SCANDINAVIA 

“It was just a tiny bit more stylish some 10 years ago,” 

he says ruefully. 

The hotel and peninsula, for which Barcélo paid 

€36 mil lion, has yet to make a profit since Diehl’s bankruptcy. 

It’s part of its charm, I think to myself, watching 

the sun sink behind one of the rocks that guard the 

enchanting bay below. 

AT A GLANCE: HOTEL FORMENTOR 

WHY WE LIKE IT It feels like 

your own private island, with what 

must be one of the Mediterranean’s 

most impressive vistas as 

the sun sinks behind the rocks in 

the bay. 

WHO STAYS THERE? The 

122 rooms, which include two 

junior suites and two grand suites 

(named for Grace Kelly and 

Winston Churchill) with sea view 

terraces, mostly attract older couples 

with a healthy limit on their 

American Express cards, who stay 

for up to a month, and younger 

couples on their honeymoon. 

WHAT’S IT GOOD FOR? Relaxing. 

Whether you’re enjoying the 

view, strolling in the garden or lolling 

around the pool with a good 

book, from the moment you check 

in it feels like there are 48 hours 

in a day. 

ANYTHING ELSE? Good food – 

in six restaurants. For light beach 

snacks and grilled fish there’s 

La Veranda and Platja Mar or 

more advanced fish and shellfish 

dishes at the garden restaurant 

El Pi, which holds barbecue nights 

every Wednesday and Friday. 

El Colomer has a tuxedoed pianist, 

white tablecloths and à la carte 

buffet, with everything from a 

shellfish platter and various paellas 

to the local specialty, caramelized 

sobrassada (sausage). 

IF YOU ONLY DO ONE THING 

Play tennis on one of the five 

beautifully framed and tended 

artificial grass courts near the hotel 

entrance. If you’re on your own, or 

your roommates aren’t up for it, 

you can book private lessons. 

Barceló Formentor 

Playa de Formentor, 

Port de Pollença. 

Tel: +34 971 899 100. 

Open April 21-October 14. 


www.barceloformentor.com 

GO TO PALMA SAS takes you to Palma. Book your trip at www.flysas. 

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More than 60 concerts, operas, 

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SCANORAMA FEBRUARY 2013 43 

and Royal Danish Embassy Berlin.

FJORD FIESTA 

Buckle up: The Atlantic Road 

is an exhilarating drive, with 

no less than eight bridges over 

8km. Storseisundet, aka ‘the 

road to nowhere,’ is the most 

dramatic stretch of all 


FJORD FIESTA 

Words by Oskar Hammarkrantz Photographs by Erik Olsson 

FJORD 

WHEEL 

DRIVE 

TRONDHEIM/ÅLESUND, NORWAY Some roads just cry 

out to be driven. Scanorama takes a roller-coaster ride through 

ocean spray and sheer mountain passes – with one foot 

hovering over the brake pedal 


FJORD FIESTA 

M 

ost roads take you from A to 

B – to and from the office, the 

store or school. But there are 

some roads you just drive for 

kicks: California’s Pacific Coast 

Highway (Highway 1) or the San Bernadino Pass 

in Switzerland. More beautiful and dramatic still 

are the Atlantic Road and Trollstigen in western 

Norway. 

Our commissioning editor thought it would be 

fun if we took them on in a small car. There was 

some talk or other about “contrasts.” 

We had a tough time appreciating his sense of 

humor, however, when we picked up our Toyota 

Yaris hybrid at Trondheim airport. Once the 

photo grapher’s bags, tripods and other equipment 

had taken up every square inch of space, the joke 

wore even thinner. 

Our first target, the Atlantic Road, was in Kristiansund, 

200km away. We’d braced ourselves 

for a humdrum drive along the E39 between 

Trondheim and Kristiansund, and to begin with 

it doesn’t disappoint. Straight down into a series 

of dirty gray tunnels so deep our ears pop. When 

we re sur face again at Orkanger, I hear for the first 

time the words that will become a mantra for this 

journey. 

“Stop the car! Oh my God, that’s just beautiful.” 

The photographer is already out of the car before 

I have time to look up and see what all the 

fuss is about. 

A small brown shaggy horse looks like it is posing 

in front of a fjord with glassy deep blue water. 

In the middle of the fjord are two small treecovered 

islands seemingly placed there by a stage 

manager or landscape architect against a pair of 

snowcapped mountains. 

It is almost too perfect. Like a painting by the 

late Thomas Kinkade, the American artist who 

was both loved and ridiculed for his bucolic pictures 

of storybook cottages; beautiful but banal, 

a trap baited to catch Hansel and Gretel. And 

this is just the highway between Trondheim and 

Kristiansund. 

Kristiansund may be just another fishing village 

to Scandinavians but ask a Spaniard, Portuguese 

or Brazilian and chances are they will smile 

broadly and say, “Bacalao.” 

The salt cod used in the dish comes from here, 

with Kristiansund recognized far and wide for the 

crates of dried fish that bear its name. 

“Kristiansund wouldn’t exist if not for klippfisk 

On the road ( from top): 

Kjellaug Jørgensen 

hauls in mackerel on 

Storseisundet bridge; 

Kristiansund harbor; 

en route from Molde to 

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FJORD FIESTA 

Not a plate of bacalao between them: 

You’re more likely to get a Caesar 

salad at Molde’s Rica Seilet Hotel; 

Kristiansund’s klippfisk king Knut 

Garshol only deals in the raw product 

[literally ‘rock fish’]. Or at least it wouldn’t be as 

wealthy,” says Knut Garshol, Kristiansund’s klippfisk 

king. 

He picks up a long and disturbingly sharp knife 

and starts filleting the dried fish. While he cuts, 

Gar shol tells the story of Jappe Ippes, a Dutch 

merchant who settled in these parts at the end of 

the 17th century. He realized that the local way of 

preserving cod – by salting it and drying it on the 

rocks – made it ideal for exporting. By 1690, he 

had started selling salt cod to Spanish and Portuguese 

seamen who needed food that would last 

their Atlantic voyages. 

We have to wait for our bacalao. Garshol buys 

in the fish and fillets it, an art form in itself, but 

doesn’t cook it. 

KRISTIANSUND’S HOTEL THON doesn’t serve bacalao 

for breakfast, but there are three sorts of salmon, 

herring and mackerel, an unusual if filling start to 

the day. 

The town is built on four islands, with the 

harbor in the center like a giant floating intersection. 

Commuter boats and fishing vessels of 

all shapes and sizes vie for space with enormous 

freighters. 

Local fisherman Noralf Reitun glides into the 

harbor in his timber-hulled boat. Every weekday 

he moors here to sell cod and cooked crab. He has 

been plying the waters between Kristiansund and 

his home island Smøla, some 160km offshore, for 

almost 35 years. But he has never driven the Atlantic 

Road. 

“I have sailed alongside it of course, and seen it, 

but never driven it. I mostly stay in my boat.” 

We drive around Kristiansund trying to get on 

this near-mythical road, but there’s no trace of it. 

Not until we come to a rotary and see an almost 

im pudent sign: “The Atlantic.” We turn off and 

en ter the Atlantic Tunnel. Just as dirty and gray 

as the other tunnels around here, it is almost 

6km long and at its deepest sinks 250 meters 

below sea level. 

Impressive, sure, but a gray tunnel is still a 

gray tunnel and being one of the world’s deepest 

under water tunnels does nothing to relieve 

claustro phobia. A bright blue line in the roof of 

the tunnel marks the deepest point and we appreciate 

the climb back to daylight much more than 

the descent. 

A harsh but colorful landscape opens up before 

us, with rust-colored heather in the foreground 

and steely gray mountains beyond. The photographer 

almost starts giggling, repeating the mantra: 

“It’s so beautiful. It’s so beautiful.” 

Soon enough we realize we aren’t on the Atlan- 

 


IF IT’S GOOD ENOUGH FOR ME, 

IT’S GOOD ENOUGH FOR YOU 

FOTO: SUNE FRØYSETH ERIKSEN 

NORWEGIAN IMPORTER OF J. P. CHENET

FJORD FIESTA 

Happy campers: 

Hugo Meland, 

Toineke Westen 

and son Jasper 

take the scenic route 

back to Holland 

tic Road at all. Just beyond the heath is more than 

a half hour’s drive between rural villages and the 

woods of Averøya. But just over a rise, the surprise 

almost slaps us in the face. The sea sprawls out in 

front of us, and a small road winds into the distance 

over islets and skerries. 

The Atlantic Road is one of the most expensive 

construction projects ever undertaken in Norway. 

The 8.3km road, opened in 1989, took six years to 

build and cost €165 million. Twelve hurricanes 

hit during construction. Eight bridges make up 

large sections of the road, connecting islands that 

were once isolated from each other. The most impressive 

is the Storseisundet bridge, which gives 

the illusion of suddenly stopping in mid-air. For 

a driver, it is at once exhilarating and terrifying 

heading up the steep slope without having the 

slightest idea of what is on the other side (un in - 

terrupted views of the Atlantic). 

Kjellaug Jørgensen is less than overwhelmed, 

al though that has more to do with her catch than 

the bridge. She’s here with her husband, Jørgen, 

and a friend, Dagfinn Sandahl. A plastic bag hangs 

from the railing filled almost to bursting with fish. 

But it is the wrong kind of fish. 

“It’s mackerel season now so there won’t be any 

cod today. But mackerel will just have to do.” 

The retired farmers live on Skarvøya, one of the 

small islands now connected by the road. 

“It used to be calm and peaceful here,” she con- 


FJORD FIESTA 

Short but sweet: 

The Atlantic Road is 

a pleasure to drive, 

but comes to an end 

all too quickly 

 


FJORD FIESTA 

tinues. “There’s a lot more traffic now. That said, 

before the youngsters would move away to Kristiansund 

or Molde. Now they can stay here since 

they don’t have to take the ferry whenever they 

want to go somewhere.” 

Tourism is a growth industry, albeit largely during 

summer, with cabins for hire, diving courses 

and cafés. 

IF THE ATLANTIC ROAD has one shortcoming, it’s 

that it’s not long enough. It doesn’t make any difference 

that the tarmac is the smoothest we have 

driven, that the curves are perfectly banked and 

that the Atlantic is whipping us from the right, because 

all too quickly we’re back on the mainland 

again. Except now we have acquired a taste for 

it. Instead of driving straight to Molde, we take 

the coast road out to the village of Bud where the 

restaurant Bryggjen is said to do an excellent bacalao. 

Tradition weighs heavy in this part of the 

country, though, and on Thursdays people eat 

fish balls. These prove to be the size of tennis balls 

and come with sausage, bacon, boiled carrots and 

potatoes; hearty fare made for laborers, not idle 

drivers. 

Our hunt for bacalao drives us on toward Molde 

and the sail-shaped glass facade of the Rica Seilet 

Hotel, but the restaurant does little more than 

hamburgers and Caesar salad. The view over Aker 

Stadium, one of the world’s most stunning soccer 

grounds, does, however, provide some consolation. 

We begin to wonder if bacalao is the stuff of 

legend, too. 

The 60km from Molde to Åndalsnes and Trollstigen 

shouldn’t take more than 90 minutes but 

with the photographer muttering “My God, how 

beautiful,” at every turn, forcing us to pull over 

wherever we can, it easily takes twice that long. 

There are plenty of beautiful places in the world, 

but here nature changes shape constantly. Green 

mountainsides conjure up Sicily and I play with 

the idea of climate change turning this into a wine 

Affjordable luxuries: Coffee 

at Camilla Rönneberg’s 

Villa de Sving; bacalao at 

the Juvet Landscape Hotel; 

watching the Hurtigruten 

coastal steamers plying 

Geirangerfjord 

 


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Playing casino games on your 

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WON AN ANNUAL SALARY ON A 

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FJORD FIESTA 

No landlubber: Noralf Reitun 

has been trawling the 

waters off Kristiansund 

for almost 35 years, but has 

yet to get around to driving 

the Atlantic Road 

region. A bare cliff plunging into a fjord takes me 

back to Bohuslän on Sweden’s west coast. The next 

fjord could be Lake Como. As we approach a small 

white timber church at the foot of a mountain, it 

reminds us of a mission chapel in the southern 

Appalachian Mountains. 

Work began on Trollstigen (the “Troll’s Path”) 

in the late 1920s, and the road was opened by King 

Haakon VII in 1936. The 11 winding hairpin bends 

climbing out of the Ister Valley cut hours off your 

journey time compared with driving around the 

Trolltindene mountain range. 

Our tiny car puffs and pants up to the highest 

point 850 meters above sea level. When we left 

Åndalsnes and Ister Valley 30 minutes ago, it was 

a gorgeous fall day and 15C. The temperature falls 

1C with every U-turn. When we reach the lookouts 

at the top, it is a cold early winter’s day and 

3C. On the western side of Trollstigen is Trollveggen, 

Europe’s tallest rock face, almost 1,000 meters 

straight down. 

As we continue south through Norddal, the 

late-summer green gives way to rich autumnal 

mustard- yellow. We sit in silence for a while, 

having run out of words to describe our surroundings. 

“Oh my God, how beautiful” just doesn’t 

do it anymore. At a waterfall streaming down a 

mountainside, we start laughing. In the face of 

such majesty all we can do is laugh. 

For the first time in three days of nonstop driving 

it is time to fill up the car. In a country where 

gas costs $3 a liter and a speeding ticket can easily 

top $3,500, the editor’s choice of car – slow, fuelefficient 

– suddenly makes sense. 

 


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FJORD FIESTA 

Trondheim 

Kristiansund 

Atlantic Road 

White-knuckle ride: 

Storseisundet bridge 

Bud 

Molde 

Ålesund 

Åndalsnes 

THROUGH EIDSDALEN the 

slopes get steeper and 

Norddal 

greener. Our car struggles 

through the sharp curves, but 

Eidsdal 

it’s the other cars that start to look unsteady. 

The traffic is slow here but only because the 

drivers are too busy looking at the fjord below. 

Geiranger 

They stop here and there, veer into 

our lane. 

It’s not that surprising really. The views over 

Geiranger fjord, a deep bay with dark blue water 

pushing through lush towering mountains, 

are the best yet. One of the Hurtigruten coastal 

steamers, a lifeline for the fjord communities, 

motors out of an idyllic village in the upper reaches 

of the bay. I saw exactly this image on a postcard 

when I was a child. 

Toineke Westen and Hugo Meiland chase twoyear-old 

Jasper back off the road. 

The family packed their trusty Toyota Land 

Cruiser a month or so ago, and have driven 

through Denmark, Sweden and Finland. Now 

they are on their way home to Holland. 

“We were just quarreling about what it was 

most like. Hugo says the Rocky Mountains. I 

think Austria,” Westen says. “Either way, it is a big 

contrast to back home, which is completely flat.” 

They have been living in their rebuilt Land 

Cruiser. “We have bought fresh salmon and reindeer, 

and prepared it in the campsite kitchen. Although 

we can’t tell Jasper that the reindeer meat 

comes from those cute animals we saw in northern 

Sweden.” 

Down in Geiranger, you can tell this isn’t tourist 

season. During the summer, the 150 or so cruise 

ships that stop at the harbor discharge more than 

300,000 passengers. Today, the 240-strong population 

has the village to themselves. Our chances 

of finding bacalao seem slim. 

A small white timber house by the harbor looks 

like it belongs in an outlet village. The sign says 

Posten, which makes it sound like a post office, 

but inside people are eating. The waiter shakes 

Trollstigen 

THE FACT SHEET 

WHERE TO STAY 

Thon Hotel Kristiansund 

Clean, bright hotel standing on the site 

of an old klippfisk dock. The jetty looks 

out over Kristiansund harbor. Doubles 

from €120. 

Fiskergata 12, Kristiansund. 

Tel: +47 71 57 30 00. 

www.thonhotels.no 

Rica Seilet Hotel 

Dubai’s Burj al Arab in miniature, a glass 

sail tethered to Romsdal Fjord and 

Aker Stadium. Doubles from €165. 

Gideonvegen 2, Molde. 

Tel: +47 71 11 40 00. 

www.rica-hotels.com 

Hotel Union 

Luxurious family-owned hotel reminiscent 

of the Alps’ classic spa hotels. Insist on a 

room overlooking Geirangerfjord. Doubles 

from €200. 

Geiranger. 

Tel: +47 70 26 83 00. 

www.hotelunion.no 

Juvet Landscape Hotel 

The only flat screen in your stripped-down 

pine cabin is a floor-to-ceiling window 

tuned permanently to the nature channel. 

€195 per person, including breakfast. 

Alstad, Valldal. 

Tel: +47 95 03 20 10. 

www.juvet.com 

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK 

Smia 

Kristiansund is Norway’s bacalao capital 

and Smia does the best and most authentic 

in town. 

Fosnagaten 30, Kristiansund. 

Tel: +47 71 67 11 70. 

www.smia.no 

Posten 

Unassuming on the outside, this brasserie 

measures itself against Noma – and 

delivers. Perhaps its Michelin stars are in 

the mail. 

Geiranger. 

Tel: +47 93 04 49 14. 

www.brasserieposten.no 

Villa de Sving 

Hippie-chic café with the best cappuccino 

in western Norway. 

Geiranger. 

Tel: +47 97 64 94 78. 

www.geiranger.no 

 


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FJORD FIESTA 

Road less traveled: 

Trollstigen’s winding 

hairpin bends 

his head when we ask for bacalao. “We’re inspired 

by Noma, so bacalao doesn’t really fit.” 

Comparing yourself to Noma, the world’s best 

restaurant, is gutsy – especially if you’re a halfempty 

onetime post office in Geiranger harbor. 

But the creamy fish soup of blue mussels, Salma 

salmon, spring onion, pale ale and crème fraîche 

delivers. 

Crossing the tiny street afterward, we’re transported 

once again, this time via the Alps and Scottish 

Highlands to Topanga Canyon, Los An geles. 

Villa de Sving has the sort of hippie-chic vibe for 

which Californian café owners would give one of 

their dreadlocks. 

“Californians like this place. It was while I was 

traveling there that I started to dream of a café 

like this,” Camilla Rönneberg says, bashing out 

the grounds after making yet another cappuccino. 

The black wooden cottage is full of secondhand 

furniture, plastic details in Seventies orange, tea 

lights, family games, and 1960s detective novels. 

Even if the summer brings much-needed income, 

Rönneberg looks forward to the off-season. 

And perhaps a gentle hike in the mountains? 

“No, no. In summer, we work around the clock, 

so when fall and winter come we don’t want to go 

walking around on some mountain. Not all Norwegians 

are nature lovers. In winter, I just want to 

sit here, drink wine and take it easy.” 

We have almost come to the end of the road, but 

there’s still time for one last detour. Erik Hil drestrand, 

chef at the Juvet Landscape Hotel, will be 

serving bacalao to night. We jump in the car and 

drive the small winding roads up to the hotel. 

The salt cod, dried on Averøya, has been rinsed 

un der running water for 24 hours. Hildrestrand 

puts it in an oven tray together with a tomato 

reduc tion of chili, garlic and peppers. 

“Good bacalao needs to have a kick, a real kick,” 

Hildrestrand says, sliding the tray into the oven. 

A couple of hours later and we’re finally about 

to get a taste of what the average Norwegian eats 

a kilo of each year (10kg if you’re Portu guese). It 

does have a kick and, yes, it’s salty... 

It’s almost worth the drive alone. 

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END OF THE ROAD 24 HOURS IN ÅLESUND 

GRAB A LATE BREAKFAST. Wake up 

with industrial-strength coffee and a bowl of 

homemade muesli at Invit, an espresso barcum-interior 

design store with raw concrete 

walls, exposed pipework and pared-down 

furniture. Apotekergata 9. www.invit.no 

STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN. The best way to 

get your bearings and take in the town is to 

climb the 418 steps up Mount Aksla to Fjellstua 

lookout. www.fjellstua.no 

LUNCH WITH THE LOCALS. Having 

worked up an appetite, head to Lyst for good 

old-fashioned home cooking and dishes such 

as klippfisk with Serrano ham, potato purée 

and buttered vegetables. 

Kongensgate 12. www.lystmeny.no 

GO TO A MUSEUM. Ålesund’s art nouveau 

architecture is the result of a devastating 

fire in 1907. The Jugenstilsenteret (Art 

Nouveau Center) has exhibits on everything 

from jewelry to advertising. Admission: 

$12.50. Apotekergata 16. 

www.jugendstilsenteret.no 

SPLASH OUT ON DINNER. Right on the 

docks, the seafood restaurant Sjøbua is a 

favorite for fresh fish or bacalao, and even 

has its own lobster farm. Brunholmgata 1. 

Tel: +47 70 12 71 00. www.sjoebua.no 

STAY Housed in an old fish warehouse 

by the water, Hotel Brosundet’s rougher 

edges – bare brick walls and untreated 

pine – have been smoothed over by Norwegian 

starchitects Snøhetta. Those 

with money to burn should ask for room 

No.47, a lighthouse perched at the end of 

the Molja seawall on the Ålesund Strait. 

Rooms from €175. Apotekergata 5. 

Tel: +47 70 11 45 00. www.brosundet.no 

Additional reporting Hedvig Andersson 


FJORD FIESTA 

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Edited by Elna Nykänen Andersson 

Illustration by Bo Lundberg 

Stockholm 

CITYGUIDE STOCKHOLM 

SCANORAMA 

CITY GUIDE 

SCANORAMA GO TO STOCKHOLM FEBRUARY Stockholm 2013 is SAS’s gateway to Sweden. Book your trip at www.flysas.com. 

61 

Use money or your EuroBonus points, or combine points and money.

SCANORAMA’S STOCKHOLM 

HOTELS 

Top notch 

Ett Hem 

Stockholm’s latest luxury 

hotel gets its name from 

the Swedish for “a home” 

and that’s exactly what it 

feels like. Take a bath in the 

marble tub by the window, 

have a glass of champagne 

in the living room, or invite 

your friends over for dinner. 

Ilse Crawford has furnished 

the early 20th-century town 

house with a mixture of 

modern classics and specially 

commissioned pieces. Rooms 

from €445. 

www.etthemstockholm.se 

Skeppsholmen 

Ett Hem 

Romantic 

Hotel 

Skeppsholmen 

Found on the island of the 

same name this stylish hotel 

is the perfect getaway for 

those who have eyes only 

for each other, whether 

over a candlelight dinner 

or tennis net. Built in the 

17th century, the hotel once 

served as barracks for the 

Royal Swedish Navy but has 

since been modernized by 

local design trio Claesson 

Koivisto Rune with Dux beds 

among the creature comforts. 

If you can tear yourself away 

from your room, the Museum 

of Modern Art is next door. 


www.hotelskeppsholmen.com 

Esplanade 

Classic 

Hotel Esplanade 

This charming, familyowned 

hotel occupies a 

grand art nouveau building 

on fashionable Strandvägen. 

Maria Sand and her family 

took over in 1986 and have 

restored it lovingly, keeping 

many of the original details 

such as the wood-paneled 

walls and furnishings by 

luxury department store NK. 


www.hotelesplanade.se 

Eccentric 

Hotel Örnsköld 

Wedged in between a bakery 

and a sushi bar this tiny 

hotel is easy to miss, as it’s 

literally just a door in the 

wall. Consequently, it’s one 

of Stockholm’s best-kept 

secrets and a favorite among 

actors performing at the 

neighboring Royal Dramatic 

Theater. The Chesterfield 

sofas and general homeliness 

have charmed us, too. If 

you’re on a budget, book one 

of the windowless cabins. 


www.hotelornskold.se 

SHOPPING 

Crafts 

Svensk Slöjd 

Owned by the National 

Association of Swedish 

Handicraft Societies, this 

boutique sells traditional 

handiwork from all over 

Sweden. Stop by for 

Dalahorses, Sami jewelry, 

textiles, ceramics, basketry 

and embroidery. 

www.svenskslojd.se 

Interior design 

Asplund 

The best address in town 

for contemporary Swedish 

design, Asplund commissions 

pieces from emerging and 

established names. The 

collection includes modern 

classics, such as Tomas 

Sandell’s cabinet Snö and the 

Tati series from Broberg & 

Ridderstråle. 

www.asplund.org 

Svenskt Tenn 

This store on Strandvägen 

is a cultural institution. Its 

playful, eclectic approach 

to interior decor, with 

bright colors, bold patterns 

and handmade furniture 

designed by, among others, 

Josef Frank, is a cornerstone 

of Swedish design. 

www.svenskttenn.se 

Design House 

Stockholm 

This quintessentially 

Scandinavian store and 

platform for independent 

designers sells modern and 

affordable furniture, lighting 

and tableware by, among 

others, Nina Jobs and Form 

Us With Love. 

www.designhousestockholm.com 

Fashion 

Biblioteksstan 

The city’s chicest shopping 

district has a good mix of 

Swedish and international 

brands. Acne, J. Lindeberg, 

Ralph Lauren, Boss and 

Burberry have stores here 

and, this month, Stella 

McCartney opens too. 

www.bibliotekstan.se 

Asplund 

Sara Clausin 

This store on Södermalm has 

an expertly curated collection 

of women’s clothes, shoes 

and accessories from Diane 

von Furstenberg, Missoni, 

Sonia Rykiel and Rika, among 

others. 

www.saraclausin.com 

Haberdash 

Men of all ages will love 

this store, which focuses on 

heritage and niche brands. 

Pick up a US Navy peacoat 

from Fidelity, jeans from 

Indigofera or handmade 

shoes from Crockett & Jones. 

www.haberdash.se 

Vintage 

Modernity 

If you’re on the lookout for 

20th-century Scandinavian 

design – and aren’t afraid 

to spend a small fortune on 

it – Modernity is the place 

with furniture, lighting, 

ceramics and glassware by 

Hans Wegner, Alvar Aalto, 

Arne Jacobsen and Tapio 

Wirkkala. 

www.modernity.se 

Judits and 

Herr Judit 

Bursting at the seams 

with vintage clothing and 

accessories from every 

decade of the 20th century, 

as well as select pieces by 

contemporary designers, 

Judits (womenswear) and 

Herr Judit (menswear) never 

go out of fashion. 

www.judits.se 

www.herrjudit.se 

 

PETER CEDERLING, MATTIAS EDWALL 


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scanorama’s Stockholm 

The street 

Krukmakargatan 

This street at the heart 

of trendy Södermalm is 

the preferred address 

for independent fashion 

retailers such as Nitty 

Gritty – Isabel Marant and 

House of Dagmar, among 

others – and menswear 

label Our Legacy. Wigerdals 

Värld and Brandstationen 

stockpile vintage furniture 

and accessories, including 

men’s watches and toys, while 

Papercut has a well-edited 

selection of magazines, books 

and DVDs. 

www.nittygrittystore.com 

www.ourlegacy.se 

www.wigerdal.com 

www.papercutshop.se 

R&R 

Nordic Spa at the 

Grand Hôtel 

This is your one-stop shop 

for beauty treatments, 

massage and the Nordic 

Bathing Ritual – a birch 

sauna followed by a dip in an 

ice-cold pool that is sure to 

banish jet lag. 

www.grandhotel.se 

Restaurants 

Nordic Spa 

Classic 

Tennstopet 

A change of ownership has 

done nothing to diminish 

the old-world charm of this 

cherished haunt of writers 

and artists. It still feels like 

the home of an elderly relative, 

crammed with curios 

and memories. Go for the Biff 

Rydberg (diced steak with 

fried potatoes and onion). 

www.tennstopet.se 

New Nordic 

Gastrologik 

Only the day’s ingredients are 

revealed at this ultra-refined 

newcomer to Stockholm’s 

fine dining scene. Guests 

simply opt for either three 

or six courses and wait to see 

what unfolds, from deepfried 

dill and fennel flowers 

in sourdough to spruce 

shoots in aquavit and parsnip 

ice cream. 

www.gastrologik.se 

Hip and happening 

Taverna Brillo 

An ice cream parlor, pizzeria, 

bar, deli and bakery sit side 

by side in this bustling Italian 

restaurant-cum-food court, 

which opened its doors to 

immediate acclaim at the 

end of last year. Try a clam, 

mint, coriander, chili and 

lime pizza – or enjoy a glass 

of wine and cold cuts at 

the bar. 

www.tavernabrillo.se 

Family friendly 

Boqueria 

Cool, informal and buzzing, 

this tapas bar is the perfect 

setting for a family gathering 

with porchetta, pimientos de 

padron (fried peppers) and 

beet salad with hazelnuts 

and chèvre among the small 

plates whizzing out of the 

open kitchen. 

www.boqueria.se 

After work 

AG 

A buzzing bar, killer 

hamburgers, tapas and an 

industrial chic space with 

exposed vents and white tiles 

signed Jonas Bohlin (who 

also designed Sturehof, Riche 

and Stadshuskällaren) make 

this former silver factory the 

perfect hangout after a tough 

day at the office. 

www.restaurangag.se 

Cocktails 

Svartengrens 

Mixology tends to be 

a man’s world, but at 

Tennstopet 

Svartengrens women rule 

the bar. Madeleine Rapp 

and Josephine Sondlo more 

than hold their own in the 

art of cocktail-making, with 

creations built on seasonal 

ingredients. Try the Alibi 

(cognac, Bénédictine, lemon, 

sugar, egg white and soda). 

www.svartengrens.se 

Late night 

Lilla Baren 

at Riche 

A perennial favorite among 

the city’s media, art and 

fashion crowd, Riche’s 

backroom is always packed. 

Check the website to see 

who’s playing. 

www.riche.se 

Culture 

Museums 

Fotografiska 

In just a couple of years, 

this museum housed in an 

art nouveau customs house 

by the water has rapidly 

developed into Sweden’s 

focal point for photography. 

Recent exhibitions include 

David LaChapelle and Anton 

Corbijn. 

www.fotografiska.eu 

Galleries 

Lars Bohman 

Gallery 

Representing among 

others Bjarne Mellgard, 

Johan & Nyström 

Coffee culture 

Swedes are crazy about coffee 

– most drink at least 

five cups a day – and there’s 

even a verb for having it. 

Fika, though, means so much 

more than just taking a coffee 

break. Used as an excuse 

to meet up, chat and, more 

often than not, a timeout 

from work, fika usually entails 

something sweet to go with 

your brew such as cinnamon 

buns or bondkakor (farmer 

cookies). Some cafés even 

double as offices. 

Traditional fika: Vetekatten. 

www.vetekatten.se 

Specialty coffees: Johan 

& Nyström. johanochnystrom.se 

Coffee bar/office: Coffice. 

www.coffice.coop 

Ernst Billgren and Maria 

Miesenberger, this gallery in 

a converted warehouse on 

chic Östermalm is a muststop 

when Stockholm’s art 

lovers do their Saturday 

rounds. 

www.larsbohmangallery.com 

u 

mattias edwall, camilla lindqvist 

64 february 2013 Scanorama

Business 

& Pleasure 

Carlsberg Museum & Business Centre is 

probably the most exciting business venue 

in Copenhagen. 

Built in 1882 as museum for the brewer’s 

extensive art collection, this incredible venue 

offers great meeting and conference facilities. 

A gourmet kitchen combined with historic 

surroundings makes Carlsberg the best 

choice for your next business event. 

Visit Carlsberg is a must-see tourist 

attraction in Copenhagen with both 

Carlsberg’s authentic brewery and 

fascinating architecture. 

Visit Carlsberg is open daily for visitors from 

10-17 (closed on Mondays). The entrance 

fee includes two beers/soft drinks. 

Visit Carlsberg Booking 

(+45) 3327 1020 

booking@carlsberg.dk 

HISTORY ARCHITECTURE ATMOSPHERE BEER FOOD EVENTS MEETINGS VISITCARLSBERG.COM

SCANORAMA’S STOCKHOLM 

Debaser 

CHILD’S PLAY 

Gun Gallery 

This shooting star run by 

Greger Ulf Nilson and Karolina 

Strömberg focuses on 

photography, showcasing 

works by the likes of Lars Tunbjörk 

and Pentti Sammallahti. 

www.gungallery.se 

intermissions in the opulent 

Golden Foyer. 

www.operan.se 

Pop/Rock 

Debaser 

Chances are you heard 

them here first. Stockholm’s 

premier stage for new talent 

also attracts heavyweights 

such as Bob Dylan and 

The Strokes. Avoid lines 

by booking a table in the 

restaurant. 

www.debaser.se 

Rum för barn 

Kids love Kulturhuset, 

Stockholm’s center for the 

arts, which has dedicated 

most of its fourth floor 

to them. The “room for 

children” features a 

sprawling library that they 

can literally curl up in with a 

book and an art studio. 

www.kulturhuset.stockholm.se 

Swedish Museum 

of Natural History 

Dinosaurs, sharks, butterflies 

and a giant squid – this 

museum delves into the 

natural order of things, 

from the way our planet 

was formed to the life that 

can be found on it. Don’t 

leave without seeing a film 

at Cosmonova, a combined 

planetarium and Imax 

theater. 

www.nrm.se 

Kronobergsparken 

This park, one of Stockholm’s 

prettiest, has a large playground 

with plenty of climbing 

frames and swings where 

the kids can run off some 

steam. Grab a hot chocolate 

at the café. 

www.kronis.se 

Helsinki by Pentti Sammallahti 

Gallery Pascale 

Stockholm’s premier design 

gallery showcases cuttingedge 

furniture, glassware, 

ceramics, textiles and graphic 

design, and commissions 

its own limited-edition 

pieces. 

www.gallerypascale.com 

Opera 

The Royal 

Swedish Opera 

For a swanky night out, 

book a ticket for the opera. 

The grandiose baroque 

architecture, complete with 

massive crystal chandelier, 

is a spectacle in itself. 

Champagne is served during 

Cinema 

Bio Rio 

Share a martini with James 

Bond in the 35-seater 

Salong 4 while you order 

snacks from the upstairs 

restaurant. Sofas, armchairs 

and personal minibars make 

this a surround-lounge 

experience. 

www.biorio.se 

Sport 

Ice hockey and soccer vie for 

the title of Sweden’s top sport, 

with AIK and Djurgården 

the teams to watch in both. 

Atmosphere-wise it’s hard 

to beat Sweden’s and AIK’s 

new soccer ground, the 

50,000-capacity Friends 

Arena, while Ericsson Globe is 

the home of Swedish hockey. 

www.friendsarena.se 

www.globearenas.se 

DJURGÅRDEN 

Time was when the king used 

to hunt deer on this island just 

off Strandvägen, today it’s overrun 

with museums, cafés and 

restaurants. Jog, walk, row, 

horse ride and then have a plate 

of meatballs at Ulla Winbladh 

followed by coffee at Rosendals 

Trädgård. Or, weather permitting, 

picnic on the grass. There’s 

plenty of fun to be had for children, 

with Skansen open-air 

museum, Gröna Lund amusement 

park and Astrid Lindgren’s 

storybook Junibacken 

among the draws. More grownup 

pursuits include a game of 

boules at Prince Bertil’s Boulehall, 

art at Liljevalchs or Prins 

Eugens Waldemarsudde museum, 

Swedish culture at Nordiska 

Museet – or a show or concert 

at Cirkus. 

www.ullawinbladh.se 

www.rosendalstradgard.se 

www.skansen.se 

www.gronalund.com 

www.junibacken.se 

www.boulebar.se 

www.liljevalchs.se 

www.waldemarsudde.se 

www.nordiskamuseet.se 

www.cirkus.se 

ERIK OLSSON 


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PERFECT TABLES 

CHRISTOPHER HUNT 

Perfect 

tables 

Ten restaurants that will have 

you coming back for seconds 

Words by Hedvig Andersson 

1. Matbaren 

The more “rustic” of Mathias Dahlgren’s 

Michelin-starred restaurants at 

Stockholm’s Grand Hôtel is anything 

but. Office workers rub shoulders with 

hipsters in this spin on a corner restaurant, 

where Vico Magistretti’s bright red 

Carimate chairs and lamps by Verner 

Panton, Poul Henningsen and Jørn 

Utzon give you an inkling as to what 

Sweden’s top chef means by “traditional 

cuisine presented in a different [read 

more refined] form”: steamed bun of 

smoked pork with spicy apple, pickled 

cucumber, crispy onion; sashimi of 

scallop and fallow deer with coriander, 

pickled onions, yuzu; leaves, sprouts, 

herbs from Ugglarp. 

Grand Hôtel. Södra Blaiseholmshamnen 6, 

Stockholm, Sweden. 

Tel: +46 8 679 3584. 

www.mattiasdahlgren.com 

GO TO STOCKHOLM Stockholm is SAS’s gateway 

to Sweden. Book your trip at www.flysas.com. Use 

money or your EuroBonus points, or both. 

 



GO TO MILAN SAS takes you to Milan. Book your 

trip at www.flysas.com. Round-trips to Milan start at 





GO TO PARIS SAS takes you to Paris. Book 

your trip at www.flysas.com. Round-trips to Paris 

start at 30,000 EuroBonus points from airports 

in Scandinavia and Finland. Taxes and fees apply, 

from €48. 

2. Chez Omar 

You need a thick hide and razor-sharp 

elbows to get past the velvet ropes 

of Paris Fashion Week, but even the 

fashionistas drop their guard at this 

couscous house in the Marais. The classic 

brasserie decor – dark wood paneling, 

mustard-yellow walls and brass 

fittings – is slightly outdated but charming 

nonetheless. The no-reservations 

policy means nobody jumps the line, 

so turn up early for barbecued merguez 

sausages, pepper steak or couscous royal 

(a combination of lamb, chicken and 

merguez). 

47 Rue de Bretagne, Paris, France. 

Tel: +33 1 42 72 26 36. 

HÅKAN ELOFSSON, TONY ZUGNA 

3. Il Bagutta 

It’s not just the paintings on the walls 

that give this restaurant the air of a 

salon. This is where Milan’s art cognoscenti 

have dined for almost a century 

even if the food – interpretations of 

Italian classics such as veal ragout and 

chicken and beef scaloppini – arguably 

plays second fiddle to the conversation. 

Legend has it Italy’s oldest literary prize, 

the Premio Bagutta, was founded here 

after novelist Riccardo Bacchelli and 

his cronies meted out a fine to a late arrival 

who paid up on condition that the 

money be used to reward a literary work 

of their choosing. 

Via Bagutta 14, Milan, Italy. 

Tel: +39 02 76002767. 

www.bagutta.it 

 



4. Fiskeriet 

These Oslovians could teach the English 

a thing or two about fish-and-chips. This 

is far from your standard chippy, with 

no deep-fat fryers in sight, just a sleek 

fish counter and bar. Fiskeriet uses only 

the best catch, and the rémoulade and 

fries are made from scratch. The seafood 

counter packs fish so fresh you could 

have hauled it from the sea yourself: 

mackerel in May, lobster in October, 

shrimp January through March. 

Youngstorget 2B, Oslo, Norway. 

Tel: +47 22 42 45 40. 

www.fiskeriet.com 

GO TO OSLO Oslo is SAS’s gateway to Norway. 

Book your trip at www.flysas.com. Use money 

or your EuroBonus points, or combine points and 

money. 

GO TO SHANGHAI SAS takes you to Shanghai. 

Book your trip at www.flysas.com. Round-trips to 

Shanghai start at 80,000 EuroBonus points from 



5. Qian Li Xiang 

They almost can’t roll out the dumplings 

fast enough at this hole-in-the-wall 

breakfast shop on the outskirts of 

Shanghai. Miss Ryo, however, pinches 

the small bundles of paper-thin dough 

filled with ground pork at the speed of 

light and serves them in a bowl of hot 

broth with rice vinegar and sliced ginger. 

Wolf them down at one of the makeshift 

tables outside if you can snatch a 

stool. 

112 Wenxi Road, Shanghai, China. 

CAMILLA LINDQVIST. BOBO OLSSON 



6. Minetta Tavern 

The Black Label burger at Minetta 

Tavern, comprising brisket, chuck, short 

rib and skirt steak, is undisputedly New 

York’s finest. Heavyweight restaurateur 

Keith McNally (Odeon, Balthazar, 

Pastis...) added this Greenwich Village 

institution to his belt five years ago, 

but the original interior of red velvet 

drapes and booths is still standing, just 

like the boxing champs in their pomp 

decorating the walls. 

113 MacDougal Street, New York, USA. 

Tel: +1 212 475 3850. 

www.minettatavernny.com 

GO TO NEW YORK SAS takes you to New York. 

Round-trips to New York start at 40,000 EuroBonus 

points from airports in Scandinavia and Finland. 

Taxes and fees apply, from €63. 

ALEX BERG. ERIK OLSSON 

7. The Eagle 

Long before anyone had even heard 

of the term “gastro pub,” The Eagle in 

Clerkenwell, east London, started serving 

food that was as good as any restaurant. 

Suddenly the idea of going to the pub for 

dinner wasn’t a joke. Today, more than 

20 years after opening its doors, the chefs 

are still preparing grilled sardines, orecchiette, 

Greek-style lamb, tapas, squid 

and chorizo at the small cooking station 

behind the bar. The plates and cutlery 

don’t match and the room is a jumble 

of old chairs and tables, but one thing is 

always faultless – the food. 

159 Farringdon Road, London, England. 

GO TO LONDON SAS takes you to London. 

Round-trips to London start at 30,000 EuroBonus 

points from airports in Scandinavia and Finland. 

Taxes and fees apply, from €69. 

 



8. Schønnemann 

If there’s one restaurant that captures 

the essence of Copenhagen, it’s 

Schønne mann. This chic cellar bar 

in the center of town has been open 

for lunch since 1877, with traditional 

smørre brød (open-faced sandwiches) 

served on Royal Copenhagen Blue 

Fluted porcelain. There are more than 

100 sandwiches to choose from, including 

the Sun over Hauser Plads (smoked 

salmon, grated radish, chives and egg 

yolk) and the Virgin’s Midnight Snack” 

(chicken salad, smoked potato, bacon 

and fried carrot, and liver paste with 

fried mushrooms, bacon and parsley). 

Hauser Plads 16, Copenhagen, Denmark. 

Tel: +45 33 12 07 85. 

www.restaurantschonnemann.dk 

GO TO COPENHAGEN Copenhagen is SAS’s gateway 

to Denmark. Book your trip at www.flysas.com. 

Use money or your EuroBonus points, or combine 

points and money. €54. 

FREDRIK SKOGKVIST 



9. Celler Sa Premsa 

You get the feeling not much has changed 

down the years at this traditional Majorcan 

tavern, with its yellowing bullfighter 

posters, grandfather clocks and antique 

wine barrels – not least the clientele. 

The food is simple and tasty, with grilled 

cuttlefish, peppers de piquillo in shellfish 

sauce and frito mallorquín (lamb’s offal 

with fried potato, aubergine and peppers) 

gratefully scooped up by the regulars. 

Plaza Obispo Berenguer de Palou 8, 

Palma, Spain. 

Tel: +34 971 723 529. 

www.cellersapremsa.com 

GO TO PALMA SAS takes you to Palma. Roundtrips 

to Palma start at 40,000 EuroBonus points 

from airports in Scandinavia and Finland. Taxes and 


CAMILLA LINDQVIST 

 


10. The Winding Stair 

They say you should never judge a book 

by its cover, but this restaurant and 

bookstore in a gorgeous Georgian town 

house overlooking Dublin’s River Liffey 

doesn’t disappoint. A literary hangout 

since the 1970s, it sells new and used 

books on the ground floor. Sure enough 

a spiral staircase leads to a spacious 

dining room with sash windows, high 

ceilings, stripped wooden floors, and 

bistro-style bentwood chairs. The 

food is traditional Irish with a twist: 

O’Doherty’s black pig blood sausage 

salad with baby potato, Gubbeen chorizo 

and toast; a polenta sandwich with 

spinach, Cashel Blue, wild mushrooms 

and cheesy cauliflower; bread and butter 

pudding with whiskey sauce. 

40 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin, Ireland. 

Tel: +353 1872 73 20. 

www.winding-stair.com 

GO TO DUBLIN SAS takes you to Dublin. Roundtrips 

to Dublin start at 30,000 EuroBonus points 

from airports in Scandinavia and Finland. Taxes and 


ERIK OLSSON 


O F F I C E 

WWW.DIAGONALE.NO 

Illustrations: Lund Hagem og Atelier Oslo 

PRESTIGIOUS OFFICE BUILDING 

AT THE WATERFRONT OF OSLOS 

NEW CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT 

Prime office space available for occupancy in 2016. Essentially at the door steps of Oslo Opera House 

and the new Deichmanske library in Bjørvika. Diagonale will provide 12 400 sq. m of high-end, efficient 

office space in a spectacular full service building designed by architects Lund Hagem Arkitekter and 

Atelier Oslo. 

HAV Eiendom AS is a subsidiary 

of Oslo Port Authorities. The 

undertaking of HAV Eiendom AS 

is to plan and arrange for urban 

development in Bjørvika through 

real estate development. 

Bjørvika is a destination for cultural and recreational experiences, shopping, living and businesses alike. 

Conveniently located waterfront and near Oslo Central Station, Bjørvika offers diversity and is currently 

being transformed into the new central business district of Oslo. 

For further information, please make your enquiry to: 

Eiendomshuset Malling & Co / diagonale@malling.no / (+47) 24 02 80 00

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for an explanation of something unexpected, to determine 

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THE WEEKENDER 

Words by MARCUS JOONS 

Photographs by DANIEL MÅNSSON 

SUN, SEA 

& SAND 

BUNKERS 

VALE DO LOBO, ALGARVE Portugal’s 

largest resort is a utopian village where 

everyone gets a shot at their dream 

vacation, whatever their sport 

The 16th hole at the 

Royal Golf Course 


THE WEEKENDER 

Oceano Clube 

Royal Golf Course 

There’s a clear sense 

of before and after 

on Portugal’s Algarve 

coast. Before 

and after Vale do Lobo. 

Fifty years ago, the Dona 

Filipa hotel heralded the arrival 

of tourism in the Algarve. At 

the same time as an airport 

opened outside Faro, and 

paved roads and hotels started 

popping up in charter destinations 

such as Albufeira and 

Portimao, Vale do Lobo grew 

into a full-fledged resort three 

times the size of Monaco. 

Besides 1,500 homes, 

50 or so restaurants, two 

Europa Tour golf courses, 

tennis courts, soccer fields, 

a gym, spa and 2km sandy 

beach, it has a grocery, pharmacy, 

art gallery, and onsite 

minibus service. But even if the 

security guards in their ATVs 

suggest otherwise, Vale do 

Lobo is no gated community. 

It is fine to turn up at Praça 

Beach, say, for lunch, a drink 

or a dip in the sea under the 

Algarve’s signature red cliffs 

without being a resident. 

www.valedolobo.com 

The whole-in-one 

From the tee at the 16th hole 

on the Royal Golf Course, you 

have Vale do Lobo in miniature. 

To the left, below the 

red cliffs, the Atlantic waves 

roll ashore. To the right: rows 

of white apartments, with 

lighthouse-style chimneys, 

so close to the fairway that 

inaccurate golfers searching 

for wayward balls are a garden 

feature. In the distance, the 

high-rise skyline of Albufeira 

looms like a metropolis. As 

if those distractions weren’t 

enough, the par-three hole is a 

demanding 235 yards, and on 

the way to the green you have 

to hit across a red sand ravine 

and avoid two bunkers. 

Green fee (18 holes) plus 

double room from $130 per day. 

Handicap required: men 28; 

women 36. 

Different strokes 

If golf isn’t your cup of tea, the 

Vale do Lobo Tennis Academy 

has 14 courts – 10 hard courts; 

four with artificial grass – at 

your disposal. Coach and former 

pro Pedro Frazão is also on 

hand to help you improve your 

game. Or, if you come during 

August when the ATP Champions 

Tour is in town, you can sit 

in the bleachers and study John 

Breeze 


THE WEEKENDER 

Vale do Lobo Tennis Academy 

Praça Beach 

McEnroe, Ivan Lendl, Goran 

Ivanisevic, Stefan Edberg, and 

other living legends. 

www.premier-sports.org 

The scenic run 

Even if the asphalt isn’t mixed 

with rubber to make running 

easier on the knees à la 

Monaco, the back roads around 

Vale do Lobo could have been 

made for joggers. It is hilly but 

not especially hard going, and 

there’s plenty to look at – not 

least the luxury villas engaged 

in a beauty contest on the 

Oceano Clube beachfront. Or 

you could kick up some sand. 

Where to be seen 

You really do have to hold onto 

your cap, or to be a bit more 

Vale do Lobo your sports cap, 

at the aptly named Breeze. 

This Santa Monica-style beach 

house and pool complex 

does the obligatory salads, 

smoothies and coffee frappés, 

or you can jazz things up at the 

champagne bar on the upper 

deck. But that’s only so much 

froth; here you hang out just to 

hang out. 

www.breeze-algarve.com 

Where to eat 

Right alongside Breeze is 

Sandbanks Fish and Seafood, 

the most authentically Portuguese 

of the resort’s restaurants 

– here you can run the 

full gamut of British to Chinese 

– with portions fit for triathletes. 

We order the calamari 

with new potatoes, and get 

three squid and a mountain of 

potatoes. It may be basic, but 

it’s so good nothing more than 

a dash of lemon is required. 

Tel: +351 289 398 429. 

www.sandbanks-algarve.com 

Where to relax 

After all those rounds of 

golf and hours of tennis, and 

not least all that talk at the 

clubhouse brasserie about the 

birdie on the 14th or that exquisite 

drop shot at set point in 

the second, you could do with 

some alone time. The Royal 

Spa is the ideal retreat, a sanctuary 

of steam, babbling water 

and the kind of Oriental music 

that can loosen up the tightest 

knots in your muscles. Treatments 

range from chocolate 

body wraps to Vichy showers 

and ayurvedic massage. 

Where to stay 

Vale do Lobo manages to 

be luxurious without ever 

The tuna salad at Sandbanks 

 


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THE WEEKENDER 

being snobby. Accommo dation 

ranges from functional 

apartments ($115 per night) 

to Malibu-style beachfront 

villas ($13,000 a week). 

During the off-season, 

upgrades are likely. We were 

given a third-floor apartment 

in a block where Real Madrid 

players stayed during a training 

camp last summer. The elevator 

takes us straight into the 

hallway, which leads to two 

bedrooms, a living room, two 

bathrooms, a kitchen, three 

balconies in three different 

directions and, one floor up, 

a rooftop hot tub. If it’s good 

enough for Cristiano Ronaldo, I 

think to myself, soaking in the 

bubbles one evening under a 

star-strewn Algarve sky. Or you 

could get a room at the lavish 

Dona Filipa (www.donafilipahotel.com) 

for $275 per night. 

Royal Spa 

GO TO VALE DO LOBO SAS takes 

you to Faro. Book your trip at www.flysas.com 

or use your EuroBonus points. 

Round-trips to Faro start at 40,000 

points from airports in Scandinavia 

and Finland. Taxes and fees apply, 

from €55. 

Water the family tree. 

Between boating, diving, snorkeling and splashing on the beach, The Florida Keys offer 

an almost unlimited variety of ways to help your family grow even closer together. 

fla-keys.com 

ISLAMORADA 

KEY LARGO 

KEY WEST BIG PINE KEY & THE LOWER KEYS 

MARATHON 



WISH WISH YOU YOU WERE HERE 

Breaking the ice 

ÅNNSJÖN, SWEDEN, 12.51PM: “When winter comes, this lake in 

the north of Sweden, close to the Norwegian border, is always 

one of the first to freeze over. The day this picture was taken a 

bunch of us had got up at the crack of dawn to go skating. The 

ice was as clear as glass since it hadn’t snowed. It was really 

cold, though, and you could hear the ice squeaking as it continued 

to set.” 

MATTIAS FREDRIKSSON, CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHER 


SCANORAMA SPECIAL ADVERTISING: Reader’s Guide 

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FROM GENERATION TO GENERATION 

A signet ring showing the family coat of arms is worn with pride by generation 

after generation. Jovenia Juveler has many years of experience making 

signet rings; it is a workmenship that demands high precision and skills. 

Engraving can be performed in all gemstones, even in diamonds. The most 

common stone is a stratyfied onyx in different shades of colours. Jovenia 

Juveler has a large stock of various rings. 

JOVENIA JUVELER – Mäster Samuelsgatan 2 – 111 44 Stockholm – Sweden 

Tel. +46 08-611 25 66 – www.joveniajuveler.se 

TERJE RAKKE/NORDIC LIFE/WWW.VISITNORWAY.COM 

JUHLS’ SILVERGALLERY KAUTOKEINO 

Finnmarks first silverworkshop (est.1959) offers traditional and exlusive 

modern jewellery made one the premises. The Tundra collection designed 

by Regine Juhls ist recognised as modern classics within scandinavian 

jewellery design. Tundra ..the eternal wasteland of the arctic 

has inpired her to create timeless unique jewellery throug 50 years. Juhls 

Silvergallery is truly a cultural oasis in the heart of Norwegian Lapland, 

which reinforces the experience of the arctic landscape through art and 

design. An architectural gem: personal,exiting and surprising. 

JUHLS’ SILVERGALLERY – 9521 Kautokeino – Tel. + 47 78 48 43 30 

branch: Juhls’ Silvergallery – Bergen – Tel. + 47 55 324740 – www.juhls.no 

CHASE THE NORTHERN LIGHTS TONIGHT! 

Depending on the latest Aurora and Weather forecasts, we will drive 

you along the coast or all the way to the Finnish border until we find the 

magnificent Aurora. 

Departs every evening at 18:30 from Rica Ishavshotel (Tromsø) 

Price: NOK 950 pp. Duration five to seven hours. Period October 15th to 

March 31st. 

Book now: +47 928 09 057/ +47 922 07 901 

www.arcticguideservice.com

For advertising inquiries contact: www.dgmedia.dk 

VIDBYNÄS, CONFERENCE & HOTEL 

Vidbynäs Gård is a modern conference and meeting facility located in beautiful 

surroundings, just 35 minutes outside Stockholm. The facility offers both 

the mystics of the old buildings and the comfort and light of the new and rebuilt 

sections.We can comfortably host meetings with up to 140 participants 

in the largest meeting hall. 

Please let us know if you would like your next meeting or event to take place 

at Vidbynäs Gård. We can offer an inspiring environment and very good conditions 

for a successful meeting. 

VIDBYNÄS, CONFERENCE & HOTEL 

info@vidbynasgard.se · +46 (0)8 554 90 700 · www.vidbynasgard.se 

CAREFUL HOUSEHOLD REMOVALS 

 

 

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of “Bohag 2010” (Sweden) and “General Conditions” (rest of Europe) 

 

and storage facilities in Örnsköldsvik, Stockholm, Cannes and Paris. 

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IT WON’T HELP YOU CATCH MORE FISH 

Two big interests in the life of James’The Major’Grant were high quality 

single malt whisky and fishing adventures. As a single malt whisky 

producer, he introduced new techniques to create the fresh malty flavour 

and clear colour that characterise Glen Grant single malt whisky to these 

days. As a fisherman, he often travelled to faraway places to explore the 

world’s best waters. Naturally, he always brought along a box of Glen 

Grant on his journeys. It probably didn’t help him catch more fish, but 

certainly it made his fishing experience even more delightful. 

www.glengrant.com 

WELCOME TO BINDESBØL 

At BINDESBØL we welcome you with a team of competent and 

dedicated employees who are eager to give you the best shopping 

experience in town, within men and women´s fashion respectively. 

Starting from an exclusive shop with a pleasant atmosphere, we make 

it a point of honor to give you a personal service an experience that 

makes you want to visit us again. Designs from: Armani Collezioni, 

Armani Jeans, ETRO, Moncler, Pal Zileri, Jacob Cohën Jeans, La Martina, 

Belstaff, Fratelli Rossetti and more. 

BINDESBØL – Kgs. Nytorv 20 – 1050 Copenhagen K – Denmark 

www.bindesboel.dk

QUALITY AND HSE - A LIABILITY? 

OR A METHOD TO ACHIEVE CONTINUOUS 

IMPROVEMENT AND INCREASED VALUE? 

playdesign.no 

QUALITY and HSE systems have become a part of most companies’ everyday life, often due to laws 

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Please contact us at +47 938 72 913 or post@zirkel.no

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PHOTO HEIDI WIDERØE/ INNOVASJON NORGE 

THE MAJOR CHALLENGE FACING OIL 

AND GAS RECOVERY IN THE FUTURE IS A CCESSING 

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ENVIRONMENTS. DEVELOPING OIL AND GAS FIELDS 

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PROJECT MANAGER Christian Berg, +47 940 06 963 

DESIGN Irene Arnestad PRINT Datagraf AS 

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“We are now increasing our focus on 

workplace safety with more structured and 

preventive processes and when working in 

the oil & gas industry we are meeting even 

more of our customers’ requirements with 

our new certifications,” explains Solfrid 

Kolby, QEHS Director at Pon Power and 

continues “Our employees are our most 

important asset and we hold a number of 

authorizations to keep our high standard 

in products, solutions, sustainability and 

employee safety & morale.” 

Pon Power is also certificated according 

to ISO9001, ISO14001 and Achilles – just to 

mention the ones relevant to the oil & gas 

industry. “Keeping our certificates is not 

a goal in itself, so we keep improving our 

business – also by adhering to our processes 

in the daily work,” ends Solfrid Kolby. 

With facilities in Norway, Denmark, 

Swe den and The Nether lands Pon Power 

is delivering Cat engines, engineered to 

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in Esbjerg, Denmark, the quality of the 

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generator sets for ConocoPhillips for the 

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Wintershall Norge stepping up in the North Sea 

ENTERING THE 

TOP LEAGUE 

 

 

 

 

By Inger Lise Welhaven 

WINTERSHALL NORGE IS investing both 

money and manpower to step up their activities 

on the Norwegian Continental Shelf. 

Alv Bjørn Solheim, who just started as new 

Manager of Production Operations, arrived at 

an exciting time. With a recently signed deal 

that will see the company take operatorship 

of its own production field for the first time in 

Norway, and the decision on how to develop 

the Maria Field scheduled for the first half of 

2013, he will spearhead Wintershall Norge’s 

transition from an exploration-centric firm to 

a producing operator. 

Alv arrived at Wintershall on October 

1st, and the very same day he was flown to 

London to help finalize the biggest deal in 

the company’s history: the acquisition of 15 

percent in Gjøa, 30 percent in Vega and 32.7 

percent in the Brage Field. The Statoil deal 

meant divesting a 15 percent stake in the 

young Edvard Grieg field, but was a necessary 

sacrifice according to the new manager, 

“ 

Through this cooperation 

with Statoil, we 

are moving a big step 

forward in realizing our 

growth strategy and expanding 

our activities 

right at the source. This 

enables us to become one 

of the leading producers 

in Norway and balance 

our global portfolio even 

more effectively. 

” 

Rainer Seele, Chairman of the Board 

of Executive Directors of Wintershall. 

who is excited about the future. 

– To take over an operatorship is a very 

challenging project with many people involved 

both in our company as well as in Statoil. 

Dur ing this project we have to implement 

many IT-systems and we also have to expedite 

the ongoing implementation of a Governing 

Do cu ment system in the company, he explains. 

Originally Alv has a background as an 

entre preneur, and now he feels a similar sense 

of possibility at Wintershall Norge: – We will 

be among the operators taking a really long 

view on the NCS. We are bringing production 

towards us, swapping production in the long 

term for production in the short term. We are 

filling the gap between 2013 and our ambitions 

in 2015. This will give us a lot of experience 

for our development projects Skarfjell and 

Maria and other future discoveries. 

To run the day-to-day business related to 

Brage, Wintershall will open an office in Bergen 

and take on between 60 and 100 employees 

in addition to more than 120 people 

offshore to run the Brage installation. 

WINTERSHALL NORGE 

Wintershall, a subsidiary of BASF, is 

Germany’s largest international active 

crude oil and natural gas producer and 

has produced oil and gas for the European 

market for more than 80 years. Wintershall 

Norge came to Norway in 2006, bought 

the exploration company Revus in 2008 

and holds today about 50 licences in the 

North Sea (Norway and UK), being the 

operator of about half of them.

Ill.: Studio Slingshot 

See more at 

wintershall.no


Essential eyes 

and robotics 

- 3000 meters below sea surface 

Oceaneering’s clients get a 

powerful set of eyes, arms 

and hands far below the sea 

surface with Remotely 

Operated Vehicles (ROV). 

If you lose the ROV, you 

can’t see, you can’t work, 

and you can’t drill. 

The “Oceaneeering Magnum Plus ROVsystem” 

is a powerful cage deployed ROV, 

fully equipped to operate at 3000 meters 

under the sea surface. A tether providing 

power and fiber optics connects the ROV 

to the deployment cage. At worksite, the 

ROV system is normally the first thing 

into the sea. The ROV is first used to set 

the rig’s anchors. Then the ROV-crew take 

a seabed survey to make sure there are no 

environmental issues or obstructions to 

deal with before commencing work. 

The ROVs “eyes” consist of several cameras 

displaying digital video in high definition or 

in 3D. The ROV performs different types 

of work with the help of two hydraulically 

powered robotic manipulator arms. The 

arms provide movement and function fully 

as human shoulders, elbows, wrists and 

hands. This gives the ROV-pilot formidable 

strength and precise detail coordination 

during operation. 

Every subsea activity, from site inspection to 

subsea equipment installation to drilling, 

is assisted by the Oceaneering crew. From 

a control room or van on the asset, the 

pilot flies the ROV from a complex control 

chair with a joystick in each hand. Several 

toggles, foot pedals, minor joysticks and a 

touch screen add more functions. The pilot 

simultaneously controls manipulator arms 

and cameras, tether payout and retraction, 

thruster down and up, forward and back 

etc. Oceaneering ROV-personnel are vital 

players in the functioning of the rig. They 

are in constant communication with key 

personnel on the rig during planning and 

operations. The ROV is the eyes of the 

operation and it can’t happen without the 

ROV-crew. 

“If you lose the 

ROV, you can’t 

see, you can’t 

work, and you 

can’t drill!” 

Everything the ROV monitors subsea, 

together with key operational data, is 

displayed in the ROV control room. A live 

video feed from the ROV can be transferred 

to both on- and offshore, letting team 

members follow the subsea operation in 

real time. 

This year Oceaneering is celebrating 40 

years in Norway! We checked in with Erik 

Sæstad, GM & VP for ROV Operations in 

Norway to get his comments. “Our plan is to 

still be here 40 years from now! As drilling 

takes its first steps into arctic waters and 

everincreasing depths, ROVs becomes indispensable 

to the process. During the last 

12 months Oceaneering AS has 114000 

ROV diving hours and uptime is 99.84% 

in the Norwegian sector! Who can beat 

that number? To succeed with innovative 

technology and operations, it is essential 

to have a solid organisation with technical 

expertise and support. In the future we will 

continue to be best in class. Continuous 

improve-ment is very important in our 

industry and experience must be maintained 

to strengthen new projects.” 

Oceaneering is a world leader in the provision 

of subsea products and services to the 

oil & gas industry. 

For more information visit 

www.oceaneering.no

AVEVA Everything3D 

Plant Design for Lean Construction 

AVEVA’s vision for the Future of Plant Design allows project teams to move 

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Plant Design for Lean Construction. AVEVA Everything3D TM (AVEVA E3D TM ) 

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AVEVA AS | sales.no@aveva.com | Tel +47 67 12 87 00 

AVEVA E3D IS THE CORE DESIGN APPLICATION WITHIN THE AVEVA PLANT PRODUCT PORTFOLIO. 

IT IS FULLY INTEROPERABLE WITH ALL OTHER AVEVA ENGINEER, DESIGN AND MANAGE PRODUCTS. 

AVEVA AS has been presented the 

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APPROVED BY 

AMERICAN BUREAU 

OF SHIPPING (ABS) 

Condition Monitoring department of Karsten Moholt AS 

receives a certification from ABS. 

In March 2011, Karsten Moholt was 

the first company in the world to be 

certified by Det Norske Veritas (DNV) 

to perform condition monitoring services 

on mobile offshore units. Now, 

Karsten Moholt is the first company to 

be certified by two classification societies 

– DNV and ABS. 

In September this year, Karsten 

Moholt was certified by ABS to perform 

condition monitoring services 

including vibration analysis, thermography 

and high voltage testing. 

‘This will greatly benefit our customers 

in the shipping and drilling industries, 

making it much easier to start 

using condition based maintenance,’ 

says Tommy Glesnes, head of the 

Condition Monitoring Department at 

Karsten Moholt. 

In cases where approval from a 

classification society is required, 

it is both easier and faster for the 

customer to use a company that has 

already been approved by the classification 

society. 

‘Many of our customers have some 

ships that are classed by DNV and 

others that are classed by ABS,’ 

says Glesnes. ‘It is therefore a great 

advantage that Karsten Moholt now 

can handle both. Our approval by two 

classification societies also confirms 

that our procedures and services are 

of the highest quality.’ 

Design by Colours 

Switchboard: +47 55 94 34 00 

Fax: +47 55 94 34 35 

Email: firmapost@kmoas.no 

Postal address: 

Pbox 2458 Solheimsviken 

5824 Bergen 

Norway 

Visiting address: 

Michael Krohnsgate 86 

5057 Bergen 

Norway 

www.karstenmoholt.no

FlightGuide 

All you need to know about traveling with SAS, 

from route maps to frequent-flyer programs 

Melting point 

While airplanes are built to withstand extremely 

cold weather (the average temperature at 

10,000 meters is -50C) ice buildup – especially 

on the wings and tail – can disturb airflow during 

takeoff. That’s why, when temperatures on the 

ground dip to between zero and -3C, pilots call 

in the deicing trucks to pelt the plane with hot 

water and glycol. 

PYSSE HOLMBERG 

SCANORAMA MAY FEBRUARY 2012 2013 97

HEAD SAS TRAVEL GUIDE 

Before takeoff 

Flexible check-in 

SAS offers several alternatives to standing 

in line at the check-in desk: 

 

 

or the link sent with the check-in 

info text message. 

 

Mobile service 

If you check in via text message or the 

 

 

routes. To be able to use the Mobile 

Boarding Pass, you must have access 

to mobile Internet. 

To keep you informed about the status 

of your flight we'll send a text message 

with news of any cancellations or 

delays 22 hours before departure. 

Up in the air 

Food and drink 

There is always a great selection of food 

onboard SAS flights, from the free breakfast 

served on domestic Scandinavian 

flights to the pre-departure drink and 

superior meal service offered on intercontinental 

Business flights. 

Choices vary depending on destination 

and type of ticket but coffee and tea is 

free on all SAS flights. 

Seating 

From the Business Sleeper that offers a 

52cm/20” wide seat and 200 cm/79” of 

living space, to adjustable neck and leg 

rests in Economy Extra, and Economy’s 

ergonomically designed seats, we always 

make sure you are sitting comfortably. 

Free checked baggage 

Economy 

1 checked bag (23 kg) 

+ 1 hand luggage (8 kg) 

Economy Extra 

2 checked bags (23 kg) 


Business 

2 checked bags (32 kg) 


EuroBonus Silver and Gold members have 

additional baggage benefits. 

Entertainment 

Intercontinental flights offer movies, 

music and games on individual screens. 

Economy Extra and Business passengers 

can enjoy on-demand services, and there 

are power outlets to charge your laptop. 

Fast Track 

SAS Fast Track is the quickest way 

through security when flying Business 

or Economy Extra. As a Euro Bonus 

Gold member you can take along one 

guest, or family members, if they are 

traveling on a same-day ticket with 

SAS, Blue1, Widerøe or on any Star 

Alliance member carrier in Copenha- 

 

Airport lounges 

There are 14 SAS lounges at 10 different 

airports in Europe and America. As part 

of Star Alliance, SAS EuroBonus Gold 

members have access to more than 800 

Star Alliance lounges. SAS also offers 

Business passengers access to 50 contracted 

lounges around the world. SAS 

passengers traveling in Economy Extra 

and Economy can use the Business 

lounges at Copenhagen, Stockholm- 

 

for a $37 fee. 

SAS Smart Pass 

 

attach to your cell phone for identification 

at self-service machines, safety 

control and the gate. The SAS Smart 

 

vian Euro Bonus Gold members when 

flying from Stockholm, Copenhagen 

 

Now you can be just as productive in the air as you are on the ground. SAS Wi-Fi Onboard 

is a powerful connection that supports both Wi-Fi and telephone communication. The service, 

currently being rolled out across SAS's fleet, is free for Business and Economy Extra 

passengers, as well as EuroBonus Gold members. In Economy there is a small fee for using 

the service. Everyone gets free access to online newspapers, podcasts, games, EuroBonus 

and SAS Crew Guides. 

...and always with SAS 

With SAS, what you see is what you get. 

There are no hidden charges because we'd 

rather offer you added value with your ticket 

price – such as child discounts, free baggage 

and seat reservations. Also, we offer you 

more choice with the most comprehensive 

timetable to and from Scandinavia. 

Traveling with SAS can save you both time 

and money. 

 

online community where you take part in shaping 

the airline of tomorrow by sharing your 

experiences and suggesting improvements to 

the services SAS offers both in the air and on 

 

0¢ 

Free checked baggage 

No seat reservation fees 

Child discount 25%-90% 

Newspapers, coffee and tea 

included in the ticket price 

24 hour money-back guarantee 


Worldwide reach 

SAS and our partners can carry you to 

more 1,290 airports in 189 countries 

SAS Group airlines 

Blue1, SAS, Widerøe. 

Star Alliance and other airline partners 

Adria, Aegean, Aeroflot, airBaltic, 

Air Canada, Air China, Air New Zealand, 

ANA, Asiana Airlines, Atlantic Airways, 

Austrian, Brussels Airlines, City Airline, 

Croatia Airlines, EgyptAir, Estonian Air, 

 

 

Lufttransport, Qantas, Rossiya, Singapore 

Airlines, South African Airways, Swiss, 

 

 

 

Frequent flyers 

Fly with a bonus 

SAS EuroBonus is the leading bonus program in the Nordic countries, 

with countless reasons to join – both on the ground and up in the air 

Seats for points 

 

flights 

 

combination of points and cash. 

 

 

children aged 2-11. 

Earn points on: 

 

and several other airlines. 

 

 

terCard and earn points on purchases. 

 

 

 

The perks 

EuroBonus Silver 

As a EuroBonus Silver 

member you are entitled 

to Business check-in, an extra piece of 

baggage, 15 percent more Basic points 

on all SAS Group and Estonian Air 

flights and more. 

Spend points on: 

 

and several other airlines. 

 

Alliance flights. 

 

 

 

Check your points 

Find your up-to-date balance by 

logging on to Flysas.com 

Not yet a member? 

Sign up and read more on partners, benefits 

and offers on Flysas.com/eurobonus 

 

EuroBonus Gold 

In addition to the Silver 

benefits, Gold members 

get Fast Track and SAS and Star Alliance 

lounge access, 25 percent more Basic 

points on flights with SAS Group and 

Estonian Air. 

Young flyers 

No other airline takes better care of your 

kids. SAS offers an unaccompanied minor 

service to ensure they are looked after 

throughout the trip. The service enables 

children aged 5–11 to fly alone. 

The service is optional for travelers aged 

12-15 years. Read more at Flysas.com 

Doing business 

SAS has the right 

solution for your 

company, giving you 

the tools to manage 

your travel more effectively, 

from booking to payment. 

You can also earn bonus trips. 

SAS Credits 

SAS's corporate program gives 

companies credits for every flight, 

which results in bonus trips. SAS 

Credits is free to join and can be 

combined with EuroBonus. 

SAS Travel Pass 

 

 

as you fly. 

 

business for more information. 

TALK TO SAS 

SAS Customer Care www.flysas.com/feedback. Or call the SAS head office: +46 8 797 00 00 

Flysas.com For all information related to 

flying with SAS. Or visit our local websites: 

sas.se, sas.dk and sas.no 

Facebook.com/SAS 

Become a fan, share your 

stories and ask your questions 

Twitter.com/SAS 

Catch up with SAS 

and jot us a line 

Youtube.com/flySAS 

Check out SAS’s 

latest videos 


SAS FLEET 

SAS 

Airbus A340-300 

Number of aircraft 7 

Number of seats 245 

Max. takeoff weight 

275.0 metric tons 

Max. payload 


Length 

63.7 m 

Wing span 

Cruising speed 

Range 

Fuel consumption 

Engine 

60.3 m 

875 kmph/545 mph 

12,800 km 

0.039 liters per seat/km 

CFM56-5C4 

MD-82 





Max. payload 


Length 

45.1 m 

Wing span 


Range 


Engine 

32.9 m 


2,400 km 


P&W JT8D-217C/219 

CRJ900 NG (Next Generation) 




Max. takeoff weight 233.0 metric tons 

Max. payload 


Length 

63.7 m 

Wing span 


Range 


Engine 

60.3 m 


10,100 km 


RR Trent 772B 




38 metric tons 

Max. payload 


Length 

36.2 m 

Wing span 


Range 


Engine 

23.4 m 


2,100 km 


GE CF34-8C5A1 

Blue1 






Max. payload 


Length 

44.5 m 

Wing span 


Range 


Engine 

34.1 m 


3,800 km 


IAE 

Boeing 717 





Max. payload 


Length 

37.8 m 

Wing span 

28.5 m 



Range 

2,800 km 

Fuel consumption 0.037 liters per seat/km 

Engine RR BR 715A1-30 

Widerøe 

Airbus A319/A320 

Number of aircraft 4/2 

Number of seats 141/168 

Max. takeoff weight 75.5/73,5 metric tons 

Max. payload 

16.7/18,0 metric tons 

Length 

33.8/37,6 m 

Wing span 

34.1 m 



Range 

5,100/3,500 km 

Fuel consumption 0.033/0.029 liters per seat/km 

Engine 

IAE V2524-A5/ V2527-A5 

Dash 8-Q400 





Max. payload 


Length 

32.8 m 

Wing span 


Range 


Engine 

28.4 m 


1,500 km 


P&W PW150A 

Boeing 737-600/700/800 

Number of aircraft 28/24/23 

Number of seats 123/141/186 

Max. takeoff weight 59.9/69.6/ 


Max. payload 13.2/15.2/19.6 metric tons 

Length 

31.2/33.6/39.5 m 

Wing span 

34.3/35.8/35.8 m 



Range 

2,400/4,400/4,200 km 

Fuel consumption 0.038/0.032/0.028 

liters per seat/km 

Engine 

CFM56-7B 

Dash 8-Q300 





Max. payload 


Length 

25.7 m 

Wing span 


Range 


Engine 

27.4 m 


1,500 km 


P&W PW123 

Boeing 737-400/500 

Number of aircraft 2/5 

Number of seats 150/120 

Max. takeoff weight 68/57.8 metric tons 

Max. payload 

17.3/13.5 metric tons 

Length 

36.4/31.0 m 

Wing span 

28.9 m 



Range 

3,150/4,100 km 

Fuel consumption 0.034/0.039 

liters per seat/km 

Engine 

CFM56-3C 

Dash 8-Q100 





Max. payload 


Length 

22.3 m 

Wing span 


Range 


Engine 

25.9 m 


750 km 


P&W PW121

NORDIC ROUTES 

950 daily SAS Group departures 

within Scandinavia 

Hasvik 

Nordkapp 

Honningsvåg 

Hammerfest 

Mehamn 

Berlevåg 

Båtsfjord 

Vadsø 

Vardø 

BARENTS SEA 

Ørsta/Volda 

Sandane 

Florø Førde 

Trondheim 

Page 44 

Fjord wheel drive 

Round-trip from 

10,000* EuroBonus 

points 

*From airports in Scandinavia 

and Finland. Taxes and fees apply, 

from €48 

Kristiansund 

Molde 

Ålesund 

NORWEGIAN 

SEA 

DOVREFJELL 

L O F 

Røst 

Sandnessjøen 

Brønnøysund 

Rørvik 

Namsos 

Trondheim 

Stokmarknes 

O T E N 

Leknes 

Mo i Rana 

Mosjøen 

Andenes 

Svolvær 

Bodo 

Hemavan 

Indalsälven 

SWEDEN 

Tromso 

Narvik 

HORNAVAN 

Vilhemina 

Bardufoss 

Harstad/Narvik 

Kiruna 

Umeälven 

Örnsköldsvik 

Åre/Östersund 

Kramfors 

Arvidsjaur 

Lycksele 

Sundsvall/ 

Härnosand 

Sørkjosen 

Luleälven 

L A 

Torneälven 

Gällivare 

Skellefteå 

Umeå 

Alta 

Arctic Circle 

P L 

Luleå 

Lakselv 

A N 

D 

GULF OF BOTHNIA 

Vaasa 

(Vasa) 

Pori 

Kittilä 

INARI 

Kokkola/ 

Peitarsaari 

Tampere 

(Tammerfors) 

Oulujoki 

Kirkenes 

Kuusamo 

Oulu (Uleaborg) 

FINLAND 

PÄIJÄNNE 

RUSSIA 

Kuopio 

HAUKIVESI 

SAIMAA 

KOLA 

PENINSULA 

PIELINEN 

Lappeenranta 

Glomma 

Bergen 

Haugesund 

Stavanger 

Sogndal 

Kristiansand 

NORTH SEA 

HARDANGER- 

VIDDA 

DENMARK 

JYLLAND 

Bilund 

NORWAY 

Skien 

Ålborg 

Hamburg 

Oslo 

Sandefjord 

Århus 

FYN 

Sønderborg 

SJÆLLAND 

GERMANY 

Halmstad 

Copenhagen 

Klarälven 

Karlstad 

Göteborg 

VÄNERN 

Helsingborg/ 

Ängelholm 

Malmö 

RÜGEN 

Örebro 

Dalälven 

Norrköping 

Linköping 

VÄTTERN 

Jönköping 

Rønne 

(Bornholm) 

Växjo 

Ronneby 

Kalmar 

Visby 

ÖLAND 

ÅLAND 

Stockholm 

GOTLAND 

BALTIC SEA 

Gdansk 

POLAND 

Wisla 

Turku 

(Åbo) 

HIIUMAA 

SAAREMAA 

Palanga 

RUSSIA 

Kaliningrad 

Nemunas 

Riga 

Helsinki 

(Helsingfors) 

Tallinn 

ESTONIA 

Daugava 

RUSSIA 

*From airports in Scandinavia and Finland. 

LITHUANIA Taxes and fees apply, from €40 

Vilnius 

BELARUS 

St. Petersburg 

Stockholm 

Page 28 

LATVIA 

Dine like a Nobel 

prizewinner 

Round-trip from 10,000* 

EuroBonus points 

Minsk 

© 2005 LIBER AB. Stockholm, Sweden. September 2012 


EUROPEAN ROUTES 

Reach 181 countries 

around the world 

Reykjavik 

ICELAND 

NORWEGIAN 

SEA 

London 

Page 23 

A life on Mars 



*Taxes and fees apply, from €69 

FAEROE ISLANDS 

Arctic Circle 

Trondheim 

A T L A N T I 

C 

O C E A N 

ORKNEY 

ISLANDS 

SHETLAND 

ISLANDS 

Bergen 

Stavanger 

NORWAY 

Oslo 

SWEDEN 

Aberdeen 

Kristiansand 

Faro 

Page 79 

Sun, sea and sand 

bunkers 

Round-trips from 40,000* 



Lisbon 

PORTUGAL 

Faro 

Tejo 

Malaga 

Dublin 

REP. OF 

IRELAND 

BAY OF BISCAY 

Madrid 

SPAIN 

Ebro 

P 

Alicante 

Y 

UNITED KINGDOM 

R 

Edinburgh 

Manchester 

Birmingham 

Loire 

E N E E 

ANDORRA 

Newcastle 

S 

M 

London 

Seine 

FRANCE 

Barcelona 

E D 

Paris 

Rhone 

MALLORCA 

Palma a de Mallorca 

I T 

NORTH SEA 

Brussels 

BELGIUM 

Lyon 

Marseille 

Amsterdam 

E R R 

NETHER- 

LANDS 

LUXEM. 

Luxembourg 

A L P 

CORSICA 

SARDINIA 

Rhine 

S 

DENMARK 

Bremen 

Hanover 

Dusseldorf 

GERMANY 

Zurich 

LIECHT. 

SWITZERLAND 

Geneva 

Milan 

Frankfurt 

Stuttgart 

Bologna 

Nice MONACO 

Florence 

Munich 

Venice 

Po 

Göteborg 

Copenhagenn 

Hamburg 

SAN 

MARINO 

Berlin 

Elbe 

Prague 

CZECH 

REP. 

Linz 

A P P E N I N E S 

VATICAN 

STATE 

Rome 

ITALY 

Danube 

Vienna 

AUSTRIA 

Graz 

Ljubljana 

SLOVENIA 

Zagreb 

CROATIA 

Pula 

BOSNI 

HERZEG 

Split 

Rabat 

MOROCCO 

Algiers 

ALGERIA 

A N E A N 

Tunis 

SICILY 

TUNISIA 

MALTA 

S E 

A 

Not on the map: Las Palmas and Tel Aviv. 


White Sea 

FINLAND 

LAKE 

LADOGA 

Stockholm 

B A LT I C 

S E A 

Helsinki 

(Helsingfors) 

Palanga 

Tallinn 

ESTONIA 

LATVIA 

Riga 

St. Petersburg 

Volga 

RUSSIA 

Moscow 

Paris 

Lapping it up 




Page 23 

LITHUANIA 

Gdansk 

RUSSIA 

Kaliningrad 

Vilnius 

iu 

Minsk 

POLAND 

BELARUS 

KAZAKHSTAN 

Poznan 

Warsaw 

Wroclaw 

Lodz 

Kiev 

Volga 

Katowice 

UKRAINE 

Dnepr 

Don 

b 

Bratislava 

SLOVAKIA 

Budapest 

HUNGARY 

IA AND 

GOVINA Belgrade 

SERBIA 

Sarajevo 

CARPARTHIAN MTS 

ROMANIA 

AEGEAN 

SEA 

Dnestr 

MOLDOVA 

Chisinau 

Danube 

MONTE- 

NEGRO Priština BULGARIA 

Dubrovnik 

KOSOVO Sofia 

Podgorica 

Skopje 

Tirana MACEDONIA 

ALBANIA 

A 

GREECE 

Thessaloniki 

Chania 

Athens 

Bucharest 

Izmir 

Heraklion 

CRETE 

Istanbul 

Bodrum Antalya 

Dalaman 

Kos 

Rhodes 

RHODES 

CRIMEA 

BLACK 

Ankara 

Larnaca 

CYPRUS 

SEA 

TURKEY Mallorca 

Page 35 

Cape crusader 

Round-trip from 

40,000* EuroBonus 

points 

Alanya 


Beirut 

LEBANON 

CAUCASUS MTS 

CASPIAN SEA 

GEORGIA 

Tbilisi 

Baku 

AZERBAIJAN 

ARMENIA 

Jerevan 

IRAN 

SYRIA 

Bagdad 

IRAQ 


Damaskus 


S 

S 

INTERCONTINENTAL ROUTES 

1,160 destinations 

around the world 

r 

O 

SVALBARD 

(NOR.) 

Alaska 

(USA) 

Arctic Circle 

VICTORIA 

ISLAND 

BAFFIN 

ISLAND 

GREENLAND 

(DENMARK) 

Longyearbyen 

BJØRNØYA 

(NOR.) 

Vancouver 

Seattle 

Tropic of Cancer 

R O C K Y M O U N T A 

I N S 

CANADA 

Calgary 

EASTER IS. 

(CHILE) 

Tropic of Capricorn 

A N 

D 

E 

(USA) 

PUERTO 

ORICO 

(PORT.) 

TRINDADE 

(BRAZ.) 

FAROE IS. 

(DENM.) 

SHETLAND IS. 

(UK.) 

IRELAND 

MEXICO 

PERU 

Lima 

DOM. REP. 

BOLIVIA 

BRAZIL 

PARAGUAY 

GUYANA 

SURINAM 

French 

Guyana 

Reykjavik 

Page 27 

ICELAND 

ASCENSION 

(UK.) 

UNITED 

KINGDOM 

CÔTE 

D’IVOIRE 

GHANA 

ST. HELENA 

(UK.) 

A 

l p s 

MED I TER R A N E A N 

TOGO 

NORWAY 

BENIN 

Oslo 

Copenhagen 

SWEDEN 

Portland 

Quebec 

Ottawa 

Minneapolis 

Toronto Montréal 

St. John's 

UNITED STATES 

Detroit 

FRANCE 

Chicago 

Cleveland 

Halifax 

Las 

Indianapolis 

Boston 

Denver Kansas 

Pittsburg 

Philadelphia 

SPAIN 

Vegas 

New York 

San Francisco 

City 

AZORES 

ITALY 

Saint Louis Cincinnati 

nnat Washington D.C. 

(PORT.) PORTUGAL 

Greensboro 

o 

Los Angeles 

Memphis Nashville 

Raleigh 

Phoenix Dallas Atlanta Charlotte 

MADEIRA 

TUNISIA 

Austin 

Jacksonville 

BERMUDA 

(UK.) 

MOROCCO 

Houston New Orlando 

Tenerife 

Orleans Tampa West 

Palm Beach 

CANARY ISLANDS 

ALGERIA 

Fort Lauderdale 

dale 

(SPAIN) Gran Canaria 

LIBYA 

Miami 

BAHAMAS 

ATLANTIC 

Westsahara 

CUBA 

OCEAN 

Mexico City 

JAMAICAA 

HAITI 

San Juan 

MAURITANIA 

MALI 

BELIZE 

ST. KITTS & NEVIS 

ANTIGUA & BARBUDA 

CAPE 

NIGER 

GUATEMALA HONDURAS DOMINICA 

VERDE 

SENEGAL 

CHAD 

ST. VINCENT 

ST. LUCIA 

EL SALVADOR 

GAMBIA 

NICARAGUA 

A 

BURKINA 

GRENADA 

BARBADOS 

GUINEA-BISSAUAU 

FASO 

CLIPPERTON 

TRINIDAD & TOBAGO 

GUINEA 

NIGERIA 

(FR.) COSTA RICA 

Chicago 

SIERRA LEONE 

CENTRAL 

PANAMA VENEZUELA 

EZU 

Get a pizza the action 

AFRICAN 

LIBERIA 

REP. 

COLOMBIA 


EQU. CAMEROON 

Equator GALÁPAGOS 

GUINEA 


(ECUADOR) 

Equator 

SÃO GABON 

TOMÉ & 

ECUADOR 


PRÍNCIPE KONGO 

(Rep.) KO 

(De 

Stockholm 

ANGOLA 

NAMIBIA 

CHILE 

ARGENTINA 

URUGUAY 

TRISTAN 

DA CUNHA 

(UK.) 

Cape Town 

FALKLAND ISLANDS 

(UK.) 

SOUTH GEORGIA 

(UK.) 

SOUTH SANDWICH ISLANDS 

(UK.) 

SOUTH ORKNEY 

ISLANDS (UK.) 

BOUVETØYA 

(NOR.) 


FRANS JOSEFS 

LAND 

(RUSSIA) 

Alaska 

(USA) 

NOVAJA 

ZEMLJA 

Arctic Circle 

BERING SEA 

FINLAND 

U R A L M O U N T A I N S 

R U S S I A 

KAZAKHSTAN 

MONGOLIA 

SEA OF 

OCHOTSK 

KAMTJATKA 

Shanghai 

Page 69 

Perfect tables 




Sapporo 

ALEUTIAN ISLANDS 

(USA) 

International Date Line 

UZBEKISTAN 

KYRGYZSTAN 

Beijing 

NORTH 

KOREA 

JAPAN 

TURK- 

TAJIKISTAN 

SOUTH 

MENISTAN 

Qingdao KOREA 

Tokyo 

GREECE 

CHINA 

Osaka 

SYRIA 

AFGHANI- 

Fukuoka 

STAN 

Nanjing 

Tel Aviv 

IRAN 

Shanghai 

Chengdu 

Cairo 

KUWAIT 

PAKISTAN 

RYUKYU IS. BONIN IS. 

NEPAL 

(JAPAN) 

(JAPAN) 

BAHRAIN Dubai 

Xiamen 

EGYPT 

QATAR 

Guangzhou 

SAUDI- UNITED ARAB 

TAIWAN 

EMIRATES INDIA BURMA/ Hanoi 

Hongkong 

ARABIA 

MYANMAR 

OMAN 

LAOS 

THAILAND 

SUDAN ERITREA 

VIETNAM 

YEMEN 

ANDAMAN IS. 

(INDIA) 

CAMBODIA Manila 

DJIBOUTI 

Bangkok 

LACKADIVES 

PHILIPPINES 

(INDIA) 

SOUTH Addis Abeba 

NIKOBAR IS. 

SUDAN ETHIOPIA 

(INDIA) 

SOMALIA 

MALDIVES 

SRI 

BRUNEI 

MICRONESIA 

UGANDA 

LANKA 

PALAU 

KENYA 

MALAYSIA 

Nairobi 

Equator 

RWANDA 

SINGAPORE 

ONGO 

Mombasa 

BURUNDI 

PAPUA 

em. Rep.) 

I N D O N E S I A NEW GUINEA 

Zanzibar SEYCHELLES CHAGOS IS. 

TANZANIA 

(UK.) 

EAST TIMOR 

COMORES 

COCOS IS. 

ZAMBIA MALAWI 

(AUSTR.) 

SE 

A 

TURKEY 

ZIMBABWE 

IRAQ 

BOTSWANA 

MOZAMBIQUE 

Johannesburg 

SWAZILAND 

LESOTHO 

SOUTH 

AFRICA 

MADAGASCAR 

MAURITIUS 

REUNION 

(FR.) 

H I M A L A Y A S 

INDIAN OCEAN 

BHUTAN 

BANGLA- 

DESH 

Chang Mai 

Phuket 

Kuala Lumpur 

Krabi 

Ho Chi Minh 

Saigon 

Singapore 

Perth 

AUSTRALIA 

Tropic of Cancer 

GUAM 

(USA) 

NORTHERN 

MARIANA 

ISLANDS 

(USA) 

Tropic of Capricorn 

PACIFIC 

OCEAN 

MARCUS 

(JAPAN) 

SOLOMON 

ISLANDS 

VANUATU 

NEW 

CALEDONIA 

(FR.) 

WAKE 

(USA) 

MARSHALL 

ISLANDS 

NAURU 

TUVALU 

FIJI 

ISLANDS 

KERMADEC IS. 

(N.Z) 

NEW AMSTERDAM 

(FR.) 

Sydney 

CROZET IS. 

(FR.) 

PRINCE EDWARD 

ISLANDS 

(S. AFRICA) 

KERGUELEN 

(FR.) 

HEARD ISLAND 

(AUSTR.) 

Melbourne 

TASMANIA 

Auckland 

NEW 

ZEALAND 

CHATHAM IS. 

(N.Z) 



FLYSAS.COM 

One-stop shop 

Flysas.com is Scandinavia’s 

largest travel website with 

70 million visitors annually. 

Book and rebook flights 

(always with a 24-hour 

money-back guarantee), 

insu rance, rental cars and 

hotels, and learn about your 

destination, all in one place 

Be inspired 

SAS and its partners can carry you to 1,160 

destinations worldwide. For more information 

– or just some inspiration – check out 

the route map and city guides under the 

Destinations tab. 

HELSINKI 

IS JUST 

A CLICK AWAY 

flysas.com 

Find bargains 

With the Flysas.com low price calendar it’s 

easy to get an overview of the cheap est 

tickets. So, if your travel dates are flexible, 

you can quickly see which are the smart est 

days to travel. 

Cancel without cost 

When booking tickets at flysas.com you 

always get a 24 hour money-back guarantee, 

even with the cheapest fares. 

Get the extras 

We may be an airline but there’s more 

to Flysas.com than airfares. With a range 

of hotels to suit all wallets, plus cars and 

insurance at your fingertips, you can plan 

your entire trip on one website. 

Keep in touch 

The easiest way to keep an eye on travel 

offers is to join EuroBonus, SAS’s frequent 

flier program, and subscribe to the newsletter. 

Here you’ll find out about all the big 

campaigns and special offers before everyone 

else. 

Stay updated 

Sign up to Flysas.com to enjoy the convenience 

of our online travel service. Remember 

to keep your profile updated to ensure 

that you will recieve text messages, offers 

and more. 

*SAS flies to Helsinki. Book your ticket at 

Flysas.com or use your EuroBonus points. 

Round-trips to Helsinki start at 10,000 

points from airports in Scandinavia and 

Finland. Taxes and fees apply, from €33 

GET THE APPS 

GUIDES Download SAS's 

City Guides and Crew Guide 

at Flysas.com/apps 

GETTY IMAGES 

106 FEBRUARY APRIL 2012 2013 SCANORAMA

etreat 27 

no.020

Fjord fiesta - Scanorama

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