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0 72246 48120 2 

MODELAIRFPLANENEWS.COM

CONTENTS 

FLIGHT TESTS 

30 GREAT PLANES MODEL MFG. 

SUPER CHIPMUNK 

Aerobatic superstar 

BY ROBERT REID 

40 NORTHEAST SAILPLANE 

PRODUCTS 

ULTIMATE EPP BIPE 

Two wings are more fun than one! 

BY DAVE HARRIS 

48 FALCON TRADING 

BEAVER EXPERIMENTAL 

Unconventional construction, 

outstanding performance 

BY JET THOMPSON 

64 TOWER HOBBIES 

UPROAR 40 ARF 

A roaring good time! 

BY JOHN STEWART 

FEATURES 

70 DIGITAL SERVOS 

More muscle for your plane 

BY JOHN REID 

82 DESKTOP AVIATION 

AT ITS BEST 

"Flying" the Ikarus Aerofly 

Professional Deluxe 

90 ENGINE REVIEW: 

EVOLUTION .36NT 

A new player in the 

"more power" game 

BY BRUCE SMITH 

104 HOW TO: THE ART 

OF AIRCRAFT TRIMMING 

8 steps to maximize your 

model's performance 

BY RICK BELL 

118 RCX 

The big show is back! 

BY THE MODEL AIRPLANE NEWS CREW 

CONSTRUCTION 

125 MINIWAVE EDF 

An electric-powered jet that 

| really performs! 

BY RICH URAVITCH 

MAY 2005 VOLUME 133 NUMBER 5 

BME Aircraft 

27% Pitts Challenger 

Smokin' aerobat 

BY PETER ABBE 

COLUMNS 

98 SCALE TECHNIQUES 

Making sliding canopies 

BY VANCE MOSHER 

154 FINAL APPROACH 

Spirit of Wenatchee 

BY MOLLY O'BYRNE 

DEPARTMENTS 

10 Editorial 

12 Airwaves 

14 Tips & Tricks 

16 Pilot Projects 

| 20 Air Scoop 

134 ProductWatch 

138 Classifieds 

151 Source Guide 

153 Customer Service Information 

153 Index of Advertisers 

>ON THE COVER: Great Planes' Super Chipmunk is captured in flight by John Reid. See the review by Robert Reid on page 30. 

>ON THIS PAGE: Peter Abbe reviews BME Aircraft's 27% Pitts Challenger (page 54; photos by Peter Abbe & Cheri Sassman).

Precision control 

BY DEBRA CLEGHORN 

COMPUTER RADIOS, FLIGHT-STABILIZATION UNITS, ONBOARD MONITORS ... 

these technological advances make it easy for our airplanes to fly 

better than ever. But unless you fly competitively, you may not have 

thought much about digital servos. This month, our "Digital Servos" 

feature takes an inside look at how these little powerhouses work 

and the many advantages they offer over standard servos. In addition 

to their precision control, incredible holding power and superfast 

response time, they offer more torque in a smaller package. 

Check them out and see how the right gear can make all the difference 

to your plane's performance. 

Flight simulators are another of our technological assets: now we 

can fly anywhere, anytime, and attempt any maneuver without risking 

our planes (or our egos!). This month, we test the newest sim to 

hit the market: the Aerofly Professional Deluxe from Ikarus. With 

more than 50 planes and helicopters, great graphics and realistic 

flight performance, this sim has something for everyone. Check out 

our complete review on page 82. 

Small details can make all the difference between a nice scale airplane 

and one that ends up in the winners' circle. The next time 

you're building a fighter, trainer, or homebuilt model of a plane that 

has a sliding canopy, why not incorporate one into your plane? 

Building a functional sliding canopy is easier than you may think; 

turn to our "Scale Techniques" column on page 98, and get started. 

Master modeler Rich Uravitch has designed many of Model Airplane 

News' most popular plans, including his well-known Extra 3.25, A-7 

Corsair and OV-10 Bronco. This month, we're pleased to offer another 

Rich Uravitch original: the 48-inch-span electric MiniWave. This 

4-channel, electric ducted-fan jet is an easy build that features traditional 

construction. It isn't for the faint of heart, however; in the air, it can 

classic. Check it out on page 125. 

reach speeds of 

up to l00mph! If 

you want to be the 

first to show up at 

your field with a 

MiniWave, start 

building one today; 

like all of Rich's 

designs, this one is 

destined to be a 

As this issue went to press, we were saddened to learn of the 

death of Hal "Pappy" deBolt. A true pioneer of RC, Hal contributed 

articles to Model Airplane News from the early '50s, including his 

popular "Golden Age of R/C" column, and his enthusiasm and zest 

EDITORIAL DIREC 

Jon Chappell 

EDITORIAL 

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Debra Cle 

SENIOR TECHNICAL EDITOR Ge 

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Rick Bell 

WEST COAST ASSOCIATE EDITOR 

MANAGING EDITOR Molly Z. O 

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Jill Swia 

CONTRIBUTORS 

Peter Abbe, Bob Aberle, Gar 

Tom Carter, Bernard Cawley, 

Larry Cooper, Budd Davisson 

Dave Garwood, Dave Gierke 

Henry Haffke, Sal lasilli, Mat 

Lachowski, Andy Lennon, Ge 

Vance Mosher, Jim Newman 

Randolph, Mark Rittinger, Da 

Robinson, Rodney Roy, Quiq 

Stewart, Faye Stilley, Michae 

Jet Thompson, Richard Thom 

Pat Tritle, Rich Uravitch, Dick 

Joe Welsh, Dan Wolanski, Ni 

PUBLISHING 

GROUP PUBLISHERS Louis V. 

Yvonne M. DeFrancesco 

COPY 

COPY DIRECTOR Lynne Sewe 

SENIOR COPYEDITOR Paige L. 

COPYEDITORS Corey Weber, 

ART/DESIGN 

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Betty K. N 

SENIOR ART DIRECTOR Leslie 

ART DIRECTOR Gayle Van We 

MARKETING ART DIRECTOR Ch 

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTORS Mi 

Christopher Casey, Victoria 

STAFF PHOTOGRAPHERS Pete 

ADVERTISING 

DIRECTOR OF ADVERTISING RO 

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Alex Ch 

Kathy Gross, Bob Pina 

ADVERTISING TRAFFIC COORDINA 

CONSUMER MARK 

CONSUMER MARKETING DIRECT 

FULFILLMENT MANAGER Stace 

MARKETING ASSISTANT Darlen 

CORPORATE MARK 

CORPORATE MARKETING DIRECTOR 

MARKETING COORDINATOR Marie 

PRODUCTION 

SENIOR PRODUCTION MANAGER 

PRODUCTION MANAGER Christ 

SENIOR PRODUCTION COORDINA 

Sherry Morgan, Bobbi-Jo B 

INTERNET 

WEB DEVELOPERS Leo Ficks, 

WEB PROGRAMMER Jaime To 

CORPORATE 

CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD Aldo 

PRESIDENT AND CEO Louis V. 

EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT Yv 

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Caro

... I had no idea there were so 

many variations on this maneuver. 

HUMPTY BUMP 

I want to tell you how impressed I was with 

Dave Patrick's article "ABCs of the Humpty 

Bump." I had no idea there were so many 

variations on this maneuver. The illustra 

tions were killer! I hardly had to read the 

text—but I did anyway. Dave's ability to 

explain things clearly and point out places 

where mistakes often occur is of great value 

to someone like me. Please tell Dave how 

much we common sport pilots appreciate 

his articles, and ask him to write more! 

PETER MORGAN, WALPOLE, MA 

Peter, we are very pleased to have Dave as a 

contributor. The combination of his knowledge 

and the great illustrations from FX Models 

sure add up to great reading! Don't worry; we 

have articles on other maneuvers in the works. 

GY 

SCALE PROPS 

I just finished reading the February 2005 

issue of Model Airplane News. My favorite 

article was the 25th U.S. Scale Masters 

Championships. The model detail is 

astonishing! Your article raised a ques 

tion regarding WW II warbirds that has 

been on my mind for some time, 

though: why aren't they flown with 

scale propellers? For example, I saw the 

original P-47 "Big Stud" when it was at 

the Champlin Fighter Museum in 

Aiizona. The photo of Max Ficken's 

Thunderbolt (p. 30) clearly shows it 

swinging a wooden 2-blade prop. I often 

see these planes on static display with 

scale-looking props. Could you please 

explain why pilots change to non-scale 

props when they fly these warbirds? I've 

always wanted to have my own scale 

warbird, but it just seems wrong to put a 

2-blade prop on a plane that actually 

used a 3- or 4-blade prop. 

MICHAEL PFEIFER 

COLORADO SPRINGS, CO 

Michael, I'm glad you enjoyed the Scale 

Masters Championship coverage. For most 

scale competitions, the contestants are judged

first in Static and then, after all the models 

have been scored, everyone moves on to the 

flight portion of the event During the Static 

judging, the models are all fitted with the scale 

propellers and spinners that best match the 

modeler's scale documentation. If the model has 

3 or 4 blades, then the static prop and spinner 

have to match the scale drawings. The static 

prop and spinner are then switched to the flying 

setup and are not scored during flight judging. 

Most contestants paint their prop blades to 

match the color of the full-size airplanes, but 

these sometimes break, so they replace them 

with common, everyday wood-colored sport 

props. I suspect that this is what happened to 

Max's Jug! I hope that clears things up. 

GY 

In reference to your fine review of the O.S. 

FL .70 engine in the March 2005 issue, I 

noticed a deviation from suggested break-in 

procedures. You advised that the engine be 

close to maximum rpm at startup and then 

to alternately richen the mixture 

by 300rpm during each of 

the approximately 15 

two-minute runs. Does 

this mean I should start 

at nearly maximum 

rpm for one minute 

and then richen it 

to drop the rpm 

by 300 for the 

second minute, 

or should I 

run it for two 

minutes at 

nearly maximum 

rpm for one run, have the next 

engine run set at 300rpm for two minutes 

and then shut down, cool off and restart? 

In addition, does that mean one continuous 

30-minute run starting at nearly maximum 

rpm for two minutes, then 300rpm 

down for two minutes and then up to near 

maximum again for two minutes, etc. for 

15 cycles or so? I have never broken in an 

ABC or equivalent engine. 

CHARLES W. GREENWOOD 

COLUMBUS, IN 

Charles, sorry for the confusion; allow me to 

try again: 

Start the engine at approximately 1/2 

throttle (for safety purposes). After you have 

When it comes to reducing noise and vibration, it doesn't get any simpler than this. 

Flex Mounts are easy to install - no drilling or tapping. They are light weight (the .50 

to .80 size weighs only 39 grams/1.38 oz complete). They help protect your airframe 

and electronics by absorbing harmful vibration. And they help reduce noise. 

The kit includes a 6061-T6 Aluminum Backplate, Rubber Isolators and hardware. 

They are available in .35-.50 (S275), .50-.80 (S278) and .80-1.20 (S281) engine 

sizes, and replacement parts are available. 

So be smooth. Use a Flex-Mount. 

started the engine, advance the throttle to 

wide open, and adjust the needle valve to 

maximum rpm as measured by a tachometer. 

At that point, richen the needle valve 

until the rpm drop by about 300 from peak 

(max). The engine will be operating near its 

desired operating temperature, and that is 

necessary for stress-relief heat cycling—the 

primary reason for break-in of these 

ABC-type engines in the first place. Run the 

engine for about two minutes, and then shut 

it down to cool (it should be cool to the 

touch). Restart the engine for another two 

minutes (same procedure). Continue this 

procedure until you have at least 30 minutes 

of cumulative run time. That's it! Go fly the 

engine in your favorite airplane. 

DAVE GIERKE 

WRITE TO US! WE WELCOME YOUR COMMENTS AND 

SUGGESTIONS. LETTERS SHOULD BE ADDRESSED TO 

"AIRWAVES," MODEL AIRPLANE NEWS, 100 EAST 

RIDGE, RIDGEFIELD, CT 06877-4606 USA; EMAIL 

MAN@AIRAGE.COM. LETTERS MAY BE EDITED FOR CLARITY 

 

DOUS NUMBERS OF LETTERS WE RECEIVE, WE CANNOT 

RESPOND TO EVERY ONE.

Tool time 

How often during the building of a kit are your tools scattered 

all over your workbench? If you're like most modelers, it's proba 

bly most of the time. Here is an Inexpensive answer to that 

problem. Take an old cigar box and the cardboard tubes from 

some empty rolls of covering material. Cut the tubes Into differ 

ent lengths, and hot-glue them Into the cigar box. Now, all your 

tools are neat and orderly In one place for quick use. 

Carl Malta, Jamestown, NY 

Get a grip 

To get the best possible bond when gluing wing halves together, 

lightly score the root ribs in a Crosshatch pattern with a sharp 

modeling knife. Scoring the root ribs In this way allows for more 

surface area for the epoxy to adhere to, and that provides a 

tighter, stronger bond. You can also use this technique on other 

wood-to-wood joints. 

Steve Higgins, Muncie, IN 

Better engine runs 

During the life of an engine, the clicker that prevents the needle 

valve from rotating during flight can become fatigued because 

of vibration. To prevent the needle valve from vibrating and 

changing settings while In flight, place a small O-ring around 

it and the clicker. You could also use a very thin slice of fuel 

tubing in place of the O-ring. 

Harold Nance, LeSage, WV 

Powerful pliers 

You can turn a pair of pliers Into a third hand by tightly wrap 

ping a thick rubber band around the handles. The pliers can 

securely hold small objects, leaving both of your hands 

free to work. I use this trick all the time when soldering. 

Tim Richards, Concord. NC 

Illustrations by Richard Thom 

SEND IN YOU IDEAS. Model Airplane News will give a f

1/4-scale Fokker D.VIII 

John Ferguson 

Red Deer, Alberta, Canada 

John made this Balsa USA kit his own by modifying the cowl, 

fuselage, tail section, landing skid and the entire cockpit! 

Another modified feature is John's 3-piece wing. For easy 

transportation, he constructed the wing to disassemble into 

sections and uses large-scale aluminum joiner tubes to 

reassemble it once on site. He powers his Fokker D.VIII with 

a Saito 1.70R 3-cylinder radial engine and a JR 8103 radio 

system. John explains that his radial engine "... adds a lot 

of realism in flight, and the model is a hoot to fly!" 

Classic Bipe 

Graeme Rose 

Hastings, New Zealand 

Although originally scratch-built from Model Airplane News 

plans, this Classic Bipe came to Graeme as a wreck. You 

would never know that the nose and fuselage have been 

entirely rebuilt. The nose was lengthened by 1 inch, and 

Graeme also added a vented cowl to cool the engine during 

flight. He powers his model with 6 servos, a U.S. 

.41 gas engine and Futaba radio gear. 

Composite-ARF Extra 330 

Dave Stoik 

Prunedale, CA 

This gorgeous Extra took Dave only 45 hours to assemble! With a 

wingspan of 118 inches and a weight of 351/2 pounds, this Extra 

needs quite a bit of power to get into the air, and the Desert 

Aircraft 150cc engine provides it. Dave souped up his model with 

a set of Dalton Aviation carbon-fiber exhaust canisters, an 

Emcotec DPSI power box, dual Fromeco 4400mAh 7.4 lithium-ion 

batteries, 9 JR 8611 servos, 1 Hitec 5925 high-speed digital 

servo for throttle control, a Fromeco 2100mAh Li-ion battery for 

ignition, Airmodels' 32x11 propeller and, of course, mid-grade 

gasoline with a 100:1 Amsoil premixed fuel. Dave's Extra is sure 

to keep your eyes on the sky! 

>Richmond RC Harvard II 

Jim Meagher 

Naperville, IL 

Check out all of the high-tech modifications in this ARF! Jim 

has dressed up his plane with scale lights, a red rotating 

beacon, dual-wingtip Xenon strobe lights and an LED in the 

cockpit. He also modified the wing to accept 2 servos instead 

of the recommended 1 for the model's ailerons. Jim's Harvard II 

even uses flaperons. He powers his model with a GMS .61 

engine and also outfitted the plane with a Slimline Pitts 

muffler, a Futaba T6XA radio, 7 Hitec RCD servos and 

a Hydrimax 1450mAh battery pack. 

PARKZONE 

WILD HORSE P-51D 

The most successful fighter of WW II, the P-51D Mustang 

still thrills thousands today in airshows and air races around the 

world. Now you can experience Mustang thrills on a smaller scale 

with this fully aerobatic charge-and-fly reproduction from ParkZone. It 

comes with a 3-channel FM transmitter, a 9-cell, l000mAh NiMH battery 

and a peak-detect charger. Two flight modes allow less experienced 

pilots to have greater stability and expert pilots to perform 

high-energy maneuvers such as loops, victory rolls and Cuban-8s. Its 

receiver is equipped with an X-Port connector, and its receiver/ESC 

module and two servos can even be removed and used in other electric 

aircraft The ParkZone P-51D costs $180. 

ParkZone; distributed by Horizon Hobby Inc. (800) 3384639; 

horizonhobby.com. 

YOUR INSIDE SOURCE FOR WHAT'S HOT & WHERE T 

SPORTSMAN AVIATION 

RYAN STA 

The Ryan STA is a classic aircraft known for its great handling when modeled. 

This version, finished in YPT-16 military-version colors, combines classic looks 

with easy assembly and nice flight characteristics. It features an all-wood, handcrafted 

airframe with iron-on covering, a fiberglass cowl, easy-to-install wheel 

spats as well as wing struts, simulated flying wires, clear windscreens and all the 

necessary hardware. It requires a .28 to .46 2-stroke or .52 4-stroke engine and 

a 4-channel radio. Specs: wingspan—57 in.; wing area—488 sq. in.; length— 

41 in.; weight—60 to 68 oz.; wing loading—17 to 20 oz./sq. ft. 

Sportsman Aviation; distributed by Global Hobby Distributors (800) 854-8471; 

globalhobby.com. 

INTERNET-RC 

NOVAROSSI ENGINES 

Engine enthusiasts have reason to celebrate: Novaros 

well-respected, high-performance line of airplane and h 

copter powerplants will now be available in the U.S. fro 

Internet-RC! These competition-grade machines have 

been manufactured in Italy for the past 40 years and 

have earned a reputation for offering high rpm and ple 

of horsepower, as well as in-flight mixture controls. Ch

SPORT FLYERS 

WILD WING 

Developed for performance sport flying, this EPP-foam electric 

flying wing is fast and maneuverable, and it has 290 square 

inches of wing area for superior low-speed control. All of the 

radio-system slots are molded into the one-piece wing, so it's 

a super-fast build. And, of course, it's EPP which means ft will 

take a beating and keep coming back for more. Although the 

wing can be flown "bare," you can apply the included strapping 

tape for even more durability. The Wild Wing also features 

corrugated plastic fins and a vacuum-formed skid; it 

comes with a motor mount and hardware. Specs: wingspan 

—35 in.; weight—15 to 18 oz.; wing loading—7.5 to 

9 oz./sq. ft.; motor req'd—Speed 400; radio req'd— 

3-channel w/elevon mixing and 2 servos. 

Sport Flyers; distributed by Hobby People (800) 854-8471; 

hobbypeople.net 

GWS 

FORMOSA 3D 

The GWS line of sport-scale electric park and backyard flyers is 

popular because the planes are easy to build, look great and fly 

beautifully. Now GWS is stepping into a new arena: 3D aerobatics! 

The first in a new line of 3D foamies, the GWS Formosa 3D is a 

profile design that's made of Depron foam and comes with a 350C 

motor. It also comes with a gorgeous set of decals to enhance its 

showstopper antics. We've heard through the grapevine that GWS 

will soon offer 3D warbird aerobats. We cant wait! 

GWS (909) 5944979; gws.com.tw. 

HOBBY LOBBY INTL. 

THE JUDGE EDGE 540 

With its large control surfaces, this plane can perform wild aerobatics, but with reduced control 

throws, it's also great for learning 3D. It features preprinted-foam construction with carbon-fiber 

reinforcement for outstanding strength and stiffness. You don't have to wait for calm conditions 

to fly this one; it is rock-solid in the air and retains energy throughout all maneuvers. The kit 

includes printed foam parts reinforced with carbon fiber, lightweight foam wheels, motor mount 

and hardware. Specs: wingspan—381/2 in.; length—37 in.; wing area—287 in; weight—16 oz.; 

radio req'd—4-channel w/5 servos. The Judge Edge 540 costs $60. 

Hobby Lobby Intl. (615) 373-1444; hobby-lobby.com. 

GIANTSCALEPLANES 

PAIR OF MUSTANGS 

These ARF 1.40- and .50-size P-51Ds are sure to please! They fea 

ture laser-cut wood construction, a great-looking covering scheme 

fiberglass cowl and factory-applied decafs with clear paint over th 

The 1.40 version has scale sectioned flaps to aid in low-speed ha 

dling and takeoffs. Specs 1.40-size: wingspan—72 in.; length—6 

in.; wing area—915 sq. in.; weight—10.2 to 10.4 lb.; radio req'd 

5- to 6-channel w/6 or 7 servos; engine req'd—1.30 to 1.50 

4-stroke. Specs .50-size: wingspan—53 in.; length—46 in.; wing 

area—481 sq. in.; weight—6 to 6.2 lb.; radio req'd—4- to 5-chan 

w/5 or 6 servos; engine req'd—.40 to ,46 2-stroke or .52 to .63 

4-stroke. The 1.40 Mustang costs $280; the .50 costs $200. 

GiantScalePlanes.com (610) 282-4811: giantscaleplanes.com.

"Whether you're building 

or flying it, YOU CAN'T 

GO WRONG WITH THIS 

SUPER CHIPMUNK!"

GREAT PLANES MODEL MFG

WING ASSEMBLY 

Wing construction begins with the installation 

of the ailerons using the supplied hinge 

material. Position the hinge slots in the 

wing and drill a 3/32-inch-diameter hole in 

the center to allow the CA to wick in. Do 

this for the ailerons and flaps, install the 

hinges, and attach the ailerons and flaps. 

Cut the covering away from the aileronand 

flap-servo openings, and when you 

install the aileron servos, make sure that the 

servo arms are pointing toward the wingtips. 

When you install the flap servos, make sure 

that the servo arms are pointing toward the 

root on the right wing and toward the 

Two aluminum rods join the stabilizer to the fuselage. 

wingtip on the left wing. By doing this, you 

will line up the servo arms with the plywood 

plate on the aileron and flap. The 

instructions for installing the pushrods that 

connect the servos with the control surfaces 

are very detailed and even offer tips on soldering 

the pushrods. Then epoxy the two 

nylon anti-rotation pins into the root of 

each wing half. 

Now glue the aluminum wing joiner and 

two 1/8-inch-thick plywood wing joiners into 

the center section of the wing. After the glue 

has dried, check the fit with the fuselage and 

wing halves. Center the joiner in the wing's 

center section, and slide the wing halves 

SPECIFICATIONS 

MODEL: Super Chipmunk 

MANUFACTURER: Great Planes Model Mfg. 

TYPE: sport-scale aerobat 

LENGTH: 62.5 in. 

WINGSPAN: 81 in. 

WING AREA: 1,000 sq. in. 

WEIGHT: 13 to 14 lb. 

WING LOADING: 29 to 32 oz./sq. ft. 

ENGINE REQ'D: .91 to 1.08 2-stroke or 

1.20 4-stroke 

RADIO REQ'D: 6-channel w/7 servos 

PRICE: $380 

COMMENTS 

The Great Planes Super Chipmunk is a 

well-built ARF and comes with very 

clear, detailed instructions. In the air, 

it's as smooth as a pattern ship and 

can do all the maneuvers its big 

brother can. 

HIGHLIGHTS 

>Great fiberglass fuselage, cowl 

and wing belly pan 

>Complete hardware package 

>Detailed instruction manual 

with many photos 

onto the joiner. The wing halves are held in 

place with two 1/4-20 wing bolts that have 

knurled heads. This attachment method 

gives you the flexibility to either leave the 

wing as one piece or disassemble it into two 

or three pieces for easier transportation. 

To install the landing gear, cut the covering 

away from the slot in the bottom of the 

wing and install the landing gear with nylon 

The wing center belly pan with the plywood/aluminum wing 

joiner In place.

SUPER CHIPMUNK-BALLERINA WITH AN ATTITUDE 

BACK IN THE DAY, AEROBATIC FLIGHT was considered an art— 

a ballet. Whereas today's airshow pilots depend on speed and 

brutal, not-to-be-believed gyroscopic maneuvers, airshow pilots 

of the past valued grace and beauty, and the supreme practitioners 

of that three-dimensional dance were Hal Krier and Art 

Scholl and their Super Chipmunks. 

Few airplanes are as aptly named as the de Havilland 

DHC-1 Chipmunk. It was born to frolic and is still the standard 

by which the smoothness of all other airplanes is measured. 

Even as it rolled out of the factory with its puny 145hp Gypsy 

engine—the same one as powered the Tiger Moth—it was an 

absolute delight to fly. The ailerons are light and smooth, and 

in a stock 'Munk, there's no doubt that you're flying on the 

wing—not the engine—because there's plenty of the former 

and not much of the latter. 

The airplane is obscenely pleasurable to fly, but the 

instant the nose comes up, it's abundantly apparent that the 

4-cylinder boat anchor under its long nose isn't sufficiently 

powerful. This was of no consequence in its original role as 

primary trainer for the Canadian and English air forces, but if 

it intended to be a serious aerobat, things had to change. 

And they did. 

Hal Krier was among the first notable American airshow 

pilots to discover the delights of the Chipmunk, and he injected 

performance into it in the form of a 6-cylinder, in-line 200hp 

Ranger from an old Fairchild. Krier's supersmooth shows in 

the airplane inspired a generation of young aerobats (this 

writer included) to attempt to emulate his choreography and 

style. It also inspired Art Scholl to carry the art of Chipmunk 

straps. The wheel pants are also held on 

with nylon straps, but you'll need to glue 

two fiberglass landing-gear fairings onto the 

struts just above the wheel pants. Nothing 

difficult here! 

FUSELAGE AND TAIL FEATHERS 

Great Planes has included a handy fuselage 

stand that you attach to the fuselage with 

two 1/4-20 nylon wing bolts. This is extremely 

useful while you work on the fuselage and 

especially when you attach the tail feathers 

and mount the engine. The horizontalstabilizer 

halves are joined by two aluminum 

tubes, in the same way as the wing 

is joined. You must hinge the elevator 

halves to the stabilizer. To attach the stabilizer 

to the fuselage, apply epoxy to the stabilizer 

fairing, slide the stabilizer and its 

joiner into the fuselage and press it firmly to 

modification to an extreme. 

Scholl, often called "Wile E. Coyote" by his friends, had a 

more aggressive style than Krier's. He wanted more performance 

from the 'Munk, so he chose a GO-435 Lycoming as 

his engine. This was a geared, 260hp flat-four that grumbled 

along at more than 3,000rpm while the big prop was turning 

less than 2,500rpm. 

The Chipmunk airframe hadn't been designed to take the 

abuse of serious aerobatics, so the Scholl/Krier airframe modifications 

became standard. Three feet were whacked off each 

wingtip, effectively increasing the strength, which was also bolstered 

by internal mods. The fuselage was usually reskinned 

or double-skinned because the original skin was little thicker 

than a sheet of tinfoil. The distinctive de Havilland cough-dropshape 

rudder was replaced by the much larger surfaces 

required for handling additional power and for low-speed 

maneuvering. 

Scholl's primary machine featured a truly radical modification: 

a retractable gear (RG). Although he had two 'Munks— 

one with fixed gear, one with retractable—it is the RG airplane 

that he's most closely identified with. This modification 

required massive engineering changes in the wings and center 

section, and although many pilots who came after him have 

copied his other mods, none are known to have gone as far as 

sucking the wheels inside. 

"Super Chipmunk" is a great name for this airplane. It's a 

fun-loving craft with an attitude, and that's a good thing. 

—Budd Davisson 

Visit Budd on the Web at airbum.com. 

the fuselage. Hold this in place with masking 

tape while the epoxy cures. Now hinge 

the rudder to the fin. 

To attach your engine of choice (I used a 

Magnum 1.20), cut out the appropriate 

engine template from the back of the manual 

and tape it to the firewall; be sure to align it 

with the dashes on the firewall. Drill the 

holes and install the supplied engine mount. 

Great Planes has even built the right thrust

IN THE AIR 

A Magnum 1.20 4-stroke with a stock muffler, Master Airscrew 16x8 

prop and 15% 2- and 4-cycle Wildcat fuel provide plenty of power to pull 

this 13.5-pound plane with authority. 

CONTROL THROWS 

Elevator: ± 1 in. (high); ± 5/8 in. (low) 

Aileron: ± 1 in. (high); ± 3/4 in. (low) 

Rudder: ± 4 in. (high); ± 21/4 in. (low) 

Flaps: l7/8 in. down 

GENERAL FLIGHT CHARACTERISTICS 

>Stability: this plane handles very well at high and tow speeds; it's rocksolid 

in the air. 

>Tracking: with its wide-stance landing gear, ground handling is very 

easy with very little right rudder needed. In the air, it goes where you 

point It. 

>Aerobatics: the Super Chipmunk does all the aerobatic maneuvers that 

the full-size plane can do and is as smooth as a pattern ship. 

>Glide performance: because it has a large wing area, deadstick landings 

into the plane! Install the engine, the included 

fuel tank and the plywood servo tray that is 

pushed against the tank and then screwed 

into the fuselage. 

Now it's time to install your radio gear. I 

used 7 Hitec HS-425BB servos that fit perfectly. 

The rudder and tailwheel are controlled by a 

pull-pull system, and again, the instructions 

are very detailed with many photos that show 

how to set this up. Great Planes also provides 

great instructions for the cowl installation, 

from making the cutout for the engine to noting 

exactly where to put the screws that hold 

the cowl on. 

FINAL TOUCHES 

The Super Chipmunk comes with a pilot, a 

canopy and a neat cockpit that you glue to 

the fuselage. I had to cut about 1/4 inch off 

the bottom of the pilot to make it fit under 

the canopy. Apply the high-quality decals, 

and you're almost ready for the field. 

Before you can fly your Chipmunk, you'll 

need to balance it. Great Planes extensively 

test-flies its models to arrive at the best CG 

for a successful first flight. In this case, the 

manual notes that you should set the balance 

point at 43/4 inches from the front of 

the wing. The manual also states that the 

prototype needed 20 ounces of lead in the 

nose to achieve this balance point. I fastened 

my battery pack to the bottom of the 

engine mount, so I needed to add only 15 

ounces of lead. 

My hat is off to Great Planes for another 

fine product. If you're looking for a scale 

plane that flies great, I highly recommend 

the Super Chipmunk. You can't go wrong 

with this one! 

See the Source Guide on page 151 for manufacturers' 

contact information. 

are no problem, as this plane is a floater and easy to land. 

>Stalls: by cutting the throttle to idle and pulling the nose up, the plane 

will go into a gentle stall that's easily recoverable, 

PILOT DEBRIEFING 

On the ground or in the air, the Super Chipmunk draws a crowd, but 

the greatest feeling comes when you start the engine and taxi out onto 

the runway. After about a 75-foot takeoff run, when you add a little elevator 

input, the plane will head for the sky. Once in the air, the fun begins 

because this plane was designed to perform all the aerobatics the original 

did: snap rolls, hammerheads, Cuban-8s. outside spins, tail slides 

and—if you're daring enough—an inverted ribbon pick-up. This plane 

is a joy to fly, and the extra 15 ounces in the nose did not affect 

its performance. 

The Magnum 1.20 was a perfect fit; it flew the Chipmunk with 

authority. Landing this plane Is easy; with such a large wing area, it slows 

down to a walk with no tendency to tip-stall. Touchdowns are smooth, 

and rollout is about 50 feet. In subsequent flights, I played with the flaps; 

they make the Chipmunk even more of a floater.

Air SCOOP 

Soaring the Neutral Zone 

If an enemy battle-star launches an attack on your local 

slope-soaring site, you can be on full-alert patrol to repel 

the aggressor with the new Toucan 60R—a larger version of the original 

Toucan from DCU Models. With lower wing loading and higher Reynolds numbers 

than the original 43-inch version, this 60-inch-span version flies like a dream. If you 

liked the original, you're going to love this one. The kit features a fiberglass fuselage, 

foam-core/balsa-sheeted wings and all the hardware to make the wings removable. The 

wing area is 470 square inches, and it weighs 30 to 32 ounces. Separate elevator and aileron- 

control servos are used, and mixers are unnecessary. Contact DCU Models, 45 Steel Rd., Wylie, 

TX 75098; (214) 429-0440; fax (214) 442-1899. 

These limited-production aviation 

Signature Collection Cards are 

made of fine-quality aluminum. Some of 

the finest and most famous figures of 

aviation in the past 60 years, including 

test pilots, record-holders and Aces, are 

represented with the planes they flew. 

On the front of each card is an action 

photo of a history-making aircraft 

and an inset photo 

of the famous 

pilot and his or 

her signature. The 

plane's specifica- 

tions and a short informative paragraph 

are on the back of each card. Signature 

cards sell for $5.95 (S&H included). A 

percentage of each sale will go to the 

Flight Test Historical Foundation for the 

construction of an aviation museum at 

Edwards Air Force Base. For more infor 

mation, contact Aerospace Marketing, 

P.O. Box 850, Victorville, CA 92393; (800) 

440-5095. 

Flair now offers the venerable deHavilland Tiger Moth in their Quarter 

Scale Classic Series of kits. This impressive DH-82 Tiger Moth has an 

88-inch wingspan and is sure to be a crowd-pleaser at an IMMA event or 

at your local field. Flair promises superb engineering and a long list of 

scale details and innovations made possible by the model's large size. 

Here are just a few examples: sprung and dampened telescoping undercarriage; 

durable lightweight wheels with deHavilland-logo hubcaps; 

stainless-steel flying wires with terminators; complete closed loop 

(pull/pull) control system for rudder and elevators; die-stamped steel 

bracket; die-cut, lite-ply parts; fiberglass cowl and external detail moldings. 

Power requirements are .90 to 1.20 2-stroke or 1.20 to 1.50 4-stroke. 

For more information, contact Hobby Supply South, Inc., 5060 Glade Rd., 

Acworth, GA 30101; (800) 250-3683, (770) 974-0843; fax (770) 974-6243; 

email: hss@hway.net; homepage: www.hway.net/hss. 

WORLD RECORD HOLDER 

In 1949 this freeflight 

helicopter, 

built by Taiwanese 

modelers Wang 

Kung and Liu Li- 

Tien, set a world 

record for duration 

of 22 minutes, 27 

seconds. They 

later set a distance 

record of 

18.038 kilometers 

with a model of 

the same type.

NORTHEAST SAILPLANE PRODUCTS 

ULTIMATE 

FPP BIPE

"... from scale flying 

to high-inertia 3D 

maneuvers, the 

Ultimate EPP Bipe 

gets the job done" 

Two wings are more fun than one! 

SINCE ITS RELEASE, THE ULTIMATE HAS BEEN ONE OF THE 

MOST COVETED and most replicated biplanes. Radiocontrol 

model enthusiasts and manufacturers agree that the Ultimate 

Bipe is the ultimate flying machine. The Northeast Sailplane Products 

Ultimate EPP Bipe is no exception: its small size and rugged construction 

make it the perfect backseat companion and an excellent reason to 

take the long way home from work. 

MAY 2005 41

NORTHEAST SAILPLANE PRODUCTS ULTIMATE EPP BIPE 

The kit's major components are hot-wire-cut 

out of EPP foam, and that is a great choice 

for an aerobatic model like the Ultimate, as 

it can take the abuse. The Kevlar and molded 

carbon-fiber landing gear is perfect for 

absorbing those less-than-perfect landings. 

The outer cabane struts are made of EPP 

foam, and the center cabane struts are made 

of a fiberglass material to add stiffness and 

strength. The kit includes carbon-fiber spars 

to stiffen the wings and carbon-fiber rods for 

the struts to tie the top and bottom wings 

together. The result is a very stiff and very 

tough airframe. The kit includes all of the 

necessary hardware, and the detailed 

instruction manual makes building the 

Ultimate an enjoyable task. 

PUTTING IT TOGETHER 

I started construction by inventorying and 

sorting out all of the parts. You'll need a 

large work area to lay out complete assemblies 

such as the wings and the stabilizer. 

>Fuselage The fuselage takes very little time 

to complete because most of the work has 

already been done for you. The top half of 

the fuselage is blue and has a nice tapered 

shape to it. The cabane struts are factory 

The rudder and elevator servos are installed under 

the clear canopy. 

installed, and that saves a lot of assembly 

time. An EPP hatch covers the battery compartment 

at the front of the model, and I 

used self-adhesive Velcro* tape to attach it. 

Installing the recommended Axi 2212/26 

brushless outrunner motor is a snap. Just use 

5-minute epoxy to glue the precut composite 

firewall to the fuselage. When the epoxy 

has cured, use screws to secure the motor to 

the firewall and you're ready to move on. To 

complete the power package, I used a 

Thunder Power 3-cell (11.1V) 1320mAh Lipoly 

battery and a Castle Creations Phoenix 

25 brushless ESC. Northeast Sailplane 

Products provided this recommended drive 

system with the review plane, and its website 

offers these products as well as a vast 

selection of other power systems. 

>Wing assembly The Ultimate's two, onepiece, 

hot-wire-cut EPP foam airfoiled wings 

incorporate flat carbon-fiber spars glued into 

recessed areas on the underside of each 

wing. The upper and lower wings are slightly 

different; you should mark them after 

they have been identified so you don't mix 

them up. The four ailerons are also wire-cut 

and shaped to follow the wing's airfoil. 

Before you install the ailerons, thoroughly 

clean all of the surfaces. I used denatured 

alcohol to remove oil from the areas being 

hinged. Listed in the manual, there are several 

techniques for attaching the ailerons, 

and I elected to use hinge tape made out of 

clear, reinforced duct tape. Attaching the 

ailerons is simple: just flip the wing upsidedown, 

align the surfaces leaving a 1/16-inch 

gap and apply the tape to the hinge line. 

Temporarily secure the ailerons with masking 

tape to prevent them from moving; then 

flip the wing over, double-check the aileron 

alignment and apply the hinge tape so it's 

centered over the hinge gap. Remove the 

masking tape, and you've finished. 


MODEL: Ultimate EPP Bipe 

MANUFACTURER: Northeast Sailplane 

Products 

TYPE: aerobatic electric biplane 

WINGSPAN: 31.5 in. 

WING AREA: 400 sq. in. 

LENGTH: 31 in. 

READY-TO-FLY WEIGHT: 14 oz. 

WING LOADING: 5 oz./sq. ft. 

RADIO REQ'D: 4-channel w/3 microservos 

MOTOR REQ'D: brushless 

FLIGHT DURATION: 10 to 15 min. 

PRICE: $89.95; Axi airplane motor 

system, $194.95 

COMMENTS 

The Ultimate EPP Bipe is a nearly indestructible, 

fun-to-fly biplane. Its large 

flying surfaces permit it to maneuver 

quickly, and its high power-to-weight ratio 

allows unlimited vertical performance. 

HIGHLIGHTS 

>Quick assembly 

>Very light airframe 

>Strong construction 

>Highly aerobatic 

The underside of the bottom wing contains the 

aileron servo. 

The Ultimate has plenty of bracing to prevent the 

wings from flexing.

The battery goes In this easy-to-access compartment 

in the front of the landing gear. 

>Tail feathers I hinged the elevators and rudder 

to the horizontal and vertical stabilizers 

with CA hinges. You have to cut the hinge 

slots, so make sure that you space them 

evenly in the control surfaces to accept the 

hinges. Once you have cut the slots and 

centered the hinges, wick in a little CA to 

secure them. With the hinging completed, I 

used a hot-glue gun to attach the vertical fin 

to the fuselage. 

Radio installation and final assembly Because 

of the enclosed fuselage, installing the radio 

gear takes a little longer than it does on other 

planes, but the payoff is well worth it. The 

Ultimate requires three servos: one for the 

ailerons, one for the elevator and one for the 

rudder. Embed the aileron servo in the bottom 

wing, and install the rudder and elevator 

servos under the clear canopy with their 

linkages running inside the fuselage. Under 

the nose, the battery hatch allows access to 

the ESC and the receiver. Unlike a flat profile 

model, this bird sports clean lines and has no 

exposed wires or hardware to detract from its 

scale appearance. 

After I had installed the radio gear, I 

installed the transparent canopy, balanced 

the model and headed to the field! 

BUILDER'S THOUGHTS 

Northeast Sailplane Products' Ultimate EPP 

Bipe is fun to fly, and the Axi outrunner motor 

provides remarkable power. I recommend this 

biplane for intermediate and advanced pilots 

who want an inexpensive, easily transportable 

model that's tough enough to handle a few 

unintentional landings. 



IN THE AIR 

For the Ultimate Bipe, I used an Axi 

2212/26 brushless outrunner, a 

Thunder Power 3-cell, 1320mAh 

Li-poly battery and a Castle Creations 

Phoenix 25 ESC. This combination 

provides plenty of power, so the model 

literally leaps off the ground and flies 

out of sight in just a few seconds. 


Elevator: ± l3/4 in. (high); ± 3/4 in. 

(low); 70% expo 

Aileron: ± 11/2 in. (high); ± 3/4 in. (low); 

50% expo 

Rudder: ± l1/2 (high); ±3/4 in. (low); 

50% expo 


>Tracking: the Ultimate EPP Bipe has 

an excellent reputation for performance 

and tracking, and NSP's version is no 

exception. Just point the plane in the 

direction you choose; it does the rest. 

>Glide performance: on the first goaround, 

I overshot my landing area by 

about 50 feet, so on my second 

attempt, I used full up-elevator and no 

throttle, and the result was an almost 

vertical landing (just awesome glide elevators!). 

>Stalls: NSP seems to have found a way 

to eliminate stalls because in the dozen 

or so flights I have made on the Ultimate 

EPP Bipe, I haven't experienced one yet. 


With a flying weight of only 14 ounces 

and 21 ounces of available thrust, the 

Ultimate has unlimited vertical and hovering 

ability. During your initial flights, 

give yourself time to get used to the 

aggressive maneuvering this plane is 

capable of, and take a little extra time 

to properly flight trim it. If you use a 

computer radio (as I recommend), use 

lots of exponential for the ailerons and 

elevator; this will lessen the effects of 

the aggressive flying surfaces and make 

the plane more docile. 

The Ultimate has a wide speed 

envelope. In a mild headwind, with a 

little up-elevator and throttle, the model 

descends vertically with hardly any 

forward movement and without wing 

rocking—a real crowd pleaser. This bipe 

is also capable of effortless inverted 

flight with only minimal input. I'm also 

able to hover, torque roll and then blast 

vertically out of sight in seconds. I then 

knife-edge the Ultimate to the other end 

of the flying field. Low knife-edge passes 

and rolling circles are easy to do. 

The Ultimate EPP Bipe is a real winner; 

from scale-flying to high-inertia 3D 

maneuvers, this plane is the one that 

gets the job done.

FALCON TRADING 

BEAVER 

EXPERIMENTAL 

Unconventional construction, 

outstanding performance 

FEW BUSH PLANES ARE MORE STORIED OR MORE FAMOUS 

than the de Havilland Beaver. Between 1948 and 1968, de Havilland 

Aircraft of Canada built more than 1,600 Beavers, and any one of them 

was a sight for sore eyes for thousands of weary, lonely men living in 

the wilderness and waiting for groceries, mail and supplies. 

Manufactured in Italy by Modelfly and distributed in the U.S. by Falcon 

Trading, the Beaver Experimental is a fairly accurate re-creation of this 

historic and beloved plane, and it boasts excellent engineering and 

great flight characteristics.

"This is a UNIQUE, 

WELL-DESIGNED 

STAND-OFF-SCALE 

PROJECT for flying 

from land or water.

FALCON TRADING BEAVER EXPERIMENTAL 

GETTING STARTED 

I was excited to review the Beaver 

Experimental because it's so versatile and can 

easily be set up for land- or water-based operation. 

Falcon Trading also offers an optional set 

of floats that's designed to work with it. 

The Beaver's construction is a bit unusual in 

that it is made entirely of molded plastic. This 

means that the whole plane is waterproof! It's 

a quick build, and the parts all fit perfectly. 

You'll have to sand a bit to remove some 

flashing, but that's about it. Because it comes 

molded in white plastic, you have to paint 

only the parts of the plane that you want. I 

chose to paint the cowl, wingtips and rudder. 

The instruction manual comes with a 

large poster with photos of each of the 48 

construction steps. Each photo is captioned 

in Italian, but the accompanying multilingual 

instruction book has excellent English 

translations of each step. 

WINGING IT 

The wing comes in two pieces, but unlike the 

rest of the plane, the molded plastic halves 

are filled with foam that adds rigidity and 

strength and prevents the plane from sinking 

The engine head aligns perfectly with the precut 

cowl. 

if it is swamped. A doubler piece that fits 

over the root of each piece joins the halves. 

This piece sets the dihedral and ensures that 

the wing halves have the correct incidence. 

All of the control surfaces come molded 

and permanently attached to the flying surfaces, 

so you don't have to hinge them. 

Installing the aileron actuation mechanism is 

a simple matter of gluing root caps onto the 

aileron root ends and then inserting torque 

rods into place. 

The wing struts aren't functional but really 

enhance the scale look of the plane. They are 

hinged at both ends and are permanently 

attached to the wing. When it's time to 

attach the wing, swing down the struts and 

simply slip them over tabs that are glued to 

each side of the fuselage. You don't have to 

remove any screws for the struts; the wing 

itself is held in place by one large screw 

through its center. Four dots that are aligned 

with the corners of the wing saddle prevent 

the wing from shifting in flight. I wondered 

All of the surfaces are airfoiled, and the rudder is 

pull-pull. 


MODEL: Beaver Experimental 

MANUFACTURER: Modelfly 

DISTRIBUTOR: Falcon Trading 

TYPE: semi-scale 


WINGSPAN: 613/4 in. 


WEIGHT: 61/2 lb. 

WING LOADING: 24.79 oz./sq. ft. 

ENGINE REQ'D: .46 2-stroke or .52 

4-stroke 

RADIO REQ'D: 4-channel w/4 servos 

PRICE: $180 

COMMENTS 

This all-plastic plane is a nimble, light 

flyer that's easy to build and comes 

with a complete hardware package. 

HIGHLIGHTS 

>Unique, well-engineered 

construction 

>Versatile—easily set up for 

float flying 

>Very good flight characteristics 

how effective that would be for holding the 

wing in place, so I tried to twist it out of 

alignment. I had to push pretty hard to 

move the wing, so I am very confident that it 

will stay put. 

MAIN COURSE 

The one-piece fuselage has molded-in details 

such as rivets, panel lines and doors. Putting 

the fuselage together is essentially a matter of 

The fuselage has plenty of room for the radio 

components.

IN THE AIR 

The Beaver is a spirited plane that flies light and is quite responsive to 

control inputs. My O.S. .46FX has plenty of power and allows the plane to 

climb far more aggressively than a real Beaver ever could. 


Elevator: ± 1/2 in.; 30% expo 

Aileron: ± 1/2 in.; 30% expo 

Rudder: ± 1 in.; 15% expo 


>Stability: the Beaver's reasonable wing loading and airfoiled surfaces 

give it predictable handling. 

>Tracking: it flies a straight line but exhibits a bit of pitch coupling 

with rudder. 

>Aerobatics: basic scale-like aerobatics are a blast. 

assembling three bulkheads and gluing them 

into place. The forward bulkhead acts as the 

firewall. A molded recess in the rear of the 

firewall houses a ring that holds three nuts 

that secure the engine mount. A hole in the 

center of the firewall mates with the front of 

the fuel tank and has notches that accept the 

cowl-mounting tabs. This assembly fits in the 

fuselage; you have to glue it into place with 

medium CA. I ensured that it remained watertight 

by painting the seam with a mixture of 

epoxy and alcohol. This also prevents dirt and 

oil from getting into the rest of the fuselage. 

The center bulkhead is positioned to the 

rear of the windscreen, where the main 

landing gear is attached to the fuselage. The 

landing gear fits through holes in the fuselage, 

and its root ends meet to form an inverted 

"V" in the middle of the center bulkhead. This 

configuration looks as if it would be weak, but 

the point at which the gear meets the fuselage 

sides forms a lever; as pressure is placed on the 

bottom of the wheels, the mount is pressed 

into its seat. 

Position the rear bulkhead to the rear of 

where the cabin doors would be; it primarily 

serves as the mounting point for the bolt that 

holds the wing to the fuselage. It is fitted up 

against the top of the fuselage, so the tighter I 

make the wing bolt, the stronger the joint 

becomes. This bulkhead also provides a 

mounting point for the servo tray. 

SHAKE A TAIL FEATHER 

The horizontal stabilizer comes in two pieces 

that I glued together with epoxy. A wooden 

spar runs through the halves to give them 

rigidity. A plastic piece that also serves as the 

elevator control horn connects the elevator 

halves. The elevator is fitted to the fuselage so 

that the control horn is on the top side and is 

aligned with a hole at the rear of the fuselage 

that provides access to the elevator pushrod. 

The manual recommends that you attach this 

assembly to the fuselage with thin CA. I carefully 

checked to make sure that the horizontal 

stabilizer was perfectly square with the 

fuselage centerline, as that measurement is 

crucial to the plane's flying true. 

>Glide performance: the moderate wing loading balances out the thick 

airfoil and makes deadstick landings easy. 

>Stalls: straightforward stalls are no problem, but it takes patience to 

recover from induced spins. 


When I received this plane, I thought that it might be too heavy for the .46FX 

that I planned to use, but I was wrong It's a jolly good flyer and actually more 

stable than some trainers! It draws lots of attention at the field because it 

looks great, and folks aren't used to seeing an all-plastic plane with this level 

of quality. In the air, it handles very positively and flies very light, and 

although the O.S. 2-stroke engine doesn't give the Beaver unlimited vertical 

performance, it provides sufficient power for basic aerobatics. It might seem 

childish, but I like to imagine that I'm an Alaskan bush pilot skimming the 

trees and making tough landings to deliver supplies to remote places. 

The one-piece vertical stabilizer has a control 

horn glued to the bottom of the rudder. 

The rudder is actuated by a pull-pull mechanism 

whose cables exit the fuselage through 

two small molded exits. The plane also has 

supplemental instructions and hardware for a 

steerable tailwheel. 

WRAPPING UP 

My side-mounted O.S. .46FX fit in the cowl 

perfectly. The fuselage, cowl and firewall 

have recesses to accommodate a stock muffler. 

The engine head fits through a precut 

hole in the cowl, and there was just enough 

room to allow the thrust washer to protrude 

a few millimeters from the front of the cowl 

while the fuel lines pass unobstructed 

through the firewall at the rear of the engine. 

The servo tray has plenty of room for 

three standard servos side by side, but I had 

to enlarge the opening a bit to accept the 

length of the servos that I used. Last, I 

checked the balance and mounted the battery 

under the fuel tank for a good center 

of gravity. 

I was quite impressed by this high-quality 

kit; the parts fit perfectly. The Beaver flies 

very well as a land-based plane, and I'm 

eager to try it out as a floatplane. This bird 

gets an "A"! 



MONTH 2005 51

This gorgeous 

model has a 

HIGHLY 

AEROBATIC 

FLIGHT ENVELOPE.

Smokin' aerobat 

I HAVE ALWAYS BEEN FASCINATED BY MUSCLE 

BIPLANES, AND Sean Tucker's Oracle Challenger is no 

exception. Although the Challenger may not appear to be 

much different from many other muscle bipes, it is a one-ofa-kind, 

custom-built aerobatic machine that consists of modified 

Pitts Super Stinker wings mounted to an Eagle I fuselage 

and driven by a 360hp Lycoming engine. BME Aircraft's 

Pitts Challenger reproduces the excellent quality and 

performance of the original in 27-percent scale. Featuring 

lightweight, built-up balsa and plywood construction and a 

high-quality fiberglass cowl and wheel pants, this model 

quickly assembles into a gorgeous replica of the original. 

MAY 2005 55

BME AIRCRAFT 27% PITTS CHALLENGER 

KIT CONTENTS 

The model was well packed in a large box 

with all the components, hardware and 

decals individually bagged. The quality of 

construction and the covering job were as 

nice as any I have ever seen on an ARF; however, 

a close examination revealed several 

small dents in one of the wing panels. I contacted 

BME and was promptly sent a replacement 

panel. 

My only complaints about the kit concern 

the instruction manual and hardware package. 

Although the manual contained many 

photos, certain construction phases were difficult 

to follow. BME's phone support proved 

very helpful in clarifying the assembly issues 

not addressed in the manual. The hardware 

package consisted of the wheels and landing 

gear, CA hinges (later kits have been upgraded 

to include hinge-point-style hinges) and most 

of the bolts required to complete the assembly. 

1 found it necessary to replace all of the 

supplied 4-40 bolts because the cap heads did 

not fit a standard-size driver, and some of the 

other bolts were of the incorrect length. The 

builder must supply a fuel tank, control 

horns, linkages and an engine mount. 

TAIL FEATHERS 

The fin and stabilizer are epoxied into place 

The aileron linkages are very short and tight. 

Du-Bro control horns, clevises and ball links were 

used throughout. 

after removal of the covering where they contact 

the fuselage. When you hinge the control 

surfaces, it's important to keep the gaps 

as tight as possible without limiting controlsurface 

deflection. I found it necessary to 

place an 1/8-inch-plywood shim beneath the 

aft elevator-servo mounts to provide adequate 

clearance for the servos inside the fuselage. I 

used a reversing Y-harness to keep the elevators 

moving in the same direction; this could 

also be done using digital servos and reversing 

one servo's rotation. 

FUSELAGE 

The cabane struts pass through cutouts on 

the top of the fuselage and are bolted inside 

the fuselage with 4-40 bolts. I enlarged these 

cutouts slightly to ensure a proper fit. Don't 

hesitate to use thread-lock liberally on the 

bolts because after the firewall has been 

installed, it's very difficult to access these 

bolts, and you don't want them to vibrate 

loose in flight! 

I mounted the BME 50 to the firewall using 

a Du-Bro 1.20 vibration-reduction engine 

mount. Offsetting the engine 3/l6 inch to the 

left, I used 1/8-inch-plywood shims behind the 

Cabane struts are bolted to the tab on the center 

plywood rib on the top wing. I wrapped the aileronservo 

extension wires around the cabane struts 

and secured them with zip-ties. 


MODEL- 27% Pitts Challenger 

MANUFACTURER: BME Aircraft 

TYPE: giant-scale aerobatic biplane 

WINGSPAN: 64 in. (top wing), 62 in. 

(bottom wing) 

TOTAL WING AREA: 1,420 sq. ft. 


WEIGHT: 17 lb. 

WING LOADING: 27.6 oz./sq. ft. 

POWER REQ'D: 40 to 60cc gasoline 

engine 

RADIO REQ'D: minimum 4 channels 

with 6 high-torque servos for control 

surfaces and 1 standard servo for 

throttle 

PRICE: $499.99 

COMMENTS 

BME's Pitts Challenger is a high-quality, 

completely built-up balsa and plywood 

model with excellent fiberglass parts 

and matching film covering. 

HIGHLIGHTS 

>Finished appearance 

>Lightweight, built-up construction 

>Stable, aerobatic performance 

left mount to achieve the proper 3 degrees of 

right thrust. I chose a 33/4-inch Tru-Turn spin 

ner for my Challenger because this brand is 

second to none. 

After you've glued and pinned the firewall 

into the fuselage, it's easy to position and 

mount the cowl using 4-40 bolts. Be certain 

to cut ample clearance between the cowl 

and the spark-plug cable. I gave mine only 

1/4-inch clearance, and the engine vibration 

from the first flight caused the cowl to cut 

deeply into the spark-plug boot. 

The wheels and wheel pants are attached 

to the main gear using the supplied axles and 

bolts. The gear is then bolted to the fuselage, 

and the center portion is concealed by a cov- 

Each elevator half is actuated by independent 

servos; I used a Du-Bro pull-pull cable system on 

the rudder.

ered balsawood block that is bolted into 

place. The high-quality tail-gear assembly is 

screwed to the fuselage and is actuated by 

springs that run between its tiller aim and a 

tiller on the rudder. The spring tension was 

very tight, so I reduced the tension by 

installing a short piece of music wire between 

the end of the spring and the tailwheel tiller. 

Ample room is provided inside the fuselage 

to install the radio gear and the rudder and 

throttle servos. I mounted the rudder servo on 

two spruce rails and used a Du-Bro pull-pull 

cable system to actuate the rudder. It is very 

important that the rudder-servo mount be 

securely attached to the inside of the fuselage. 

There is considerable tension on the cables, 

and a weak mount could break loose during 

flight. It is also important to ensure that the 

elevator-servo extensions are secured to prevent 

them from flopping around inside the fuselage. 

I secured mine by drilling a small hole through 

one of the formers and attaching them to the 

former with a zip-tie. 

WINGS 

The wing panels are much easier to handle 

before they are joined, so I chose to install the 

ailerons, servos and linkages first. The wings 

are joined with epoxy and plywood dihedral 

braces. A tabbed plywood rib is sandwiched 

between the center portion of the upper wing 

panel. Be extremely careful that this rib is 

installed with the tab facing downward (in the 

same direction as the interplane strut tabs). If 

this rib is installed upside-down, it will render 

the wing useless. 

An incidence meter is an absolute necessity 

for proper installation of the wings. When the 

lower wing's incidence is set at zero degree, the 

top wing's setting of -1 11/2 degrees can easily be 

referenced off the lower wing. To achieve the 

proper incidence, I needed to redrill one of the 

holes in the center rib on the top wing. Take 

your time and be patient here; I wasn't satis 

fied with the final setup until I had taken inci 

dence readings for about two hours. The wing 

installation is completed by gluing the built-up 

balsa belly pan to the lower wing. 

FINISHING UP 

The professional-looking vinyl decals are easy 

to apply. After lightly marking their positions 

on the airframe, use the supplied transfer sheet 

to remove them from their backing and then 

carefully position them on the model, remove 

the transfer sheet and smooth out any air bub 

bles. Applying the larger decals is a two-person 

process because applying them by yourself will 

likely result in their destruction! 

To prevent scratching or denting the canopy, 

I always install it last. I chose to screw it into 

place with a few small wood screws so it would 

be easily removable, if necessary. 

CONCLUSION 

BME Aircraft's 27% Pitts Challenger is a top- 

notch aerobatic ARF. The quality of its con 

struction, finish and flight performance 

makes this gorgeous model stand out on the 

flight line and in the air. Couple this airframe 

with a BME 50 engine, and you will have an 

unlimited muscle bipe with a thrust-to- 

weight ratio that would make Sean Tucker 

green with envy! 



The Pitts Challenger balanced out at 

the suggested center of gravity (CG) 

location of l1/2 inches ahead of the bot 

tom wing without adding any extra 

weight. This proved to be a conserva 

tive starting point in flight: however, the 

model had a tendency to nose over 

when taxiing in rough grass. Moving the 

CG further aft would simultaneously 

cure this problem and improve the 

Challenger's 3D performance. 


Elevator: ±40 deg. (high); ±20 deg. (low): 

20 to 30% expo 

Aileron: ±35 deg. (high); ±17 deg. (low): 

20 to 30% expo 

Rudder: ±40 deg.; 20 to 30% expo 


Stability: the model is very stable at 

high and low speeds. It is comfortable to 

fly and has no bad habits. 

>Tracking: the Pitts Challenger is the 

most responsive model I have ever 

flown. Even with aileron and elevator low 

rates set to 50 percent of control-surface 

deflection, the model rolls and snaps in 

the blink of an eye. 

Aerobatics: pilot skill and setup are the 

only limiting factors here. By changing the 

CG and control throws, it can be tailored 

to suit virtually any style of aerobatics. 

Glide performance: gliding is one 

maneuver this biplane does not perform 

well. If the prop stops turning, you do 

not have the luxury of leisurely gliding 

back to the runway. So far. I have had 

one deadstick landing and one long 

walk to retrieve my airplane! 

>Stalls: the model has to be slowed con 

siderably and brought to a moderately 

high angle of attack before it drops its left 

wingtip. Recovery is quick when elevator 

pressure is released and power is added. 


Loops track very well, and rolls are 

lightning fast and axial. The rudder has 

enormous authority: very little input is 

necessary to maintain knife-edge flight. I 

did notice a considerable amount of roll 

coupling and a strong tendency for the 

model to pitch toward the gear when 

excess rudder was applied: some mixing 

is necessary to correct this. 

The wings have a fairly thin and sharp 

airfoil, which makes the model very sensi 

tive to control input. Even with my elevator 

and aileron low rates set to 50 percent of 

control-surface deflection, things hap 

pened very quickly. If you're looking for 3D 

performance, you will have to move the 

CG back from the recommended starting 

point. The BME 50 engine has ample 

power for prop-hanging maneuvers and 

yields unlimited vertical performance.

JPBOAB 40

"... The Uproar ARF is 

an excellent FUN-FLY 

AIRPLANE for intermediate 

to advanced pilots. 

A r o a r i n g good time! 

SOMETIMES, THE MOST ENJOYABLE PART OF THE RC FLYING 

experience is just getting away. Fast-paced lifestyles and hectic work 

schedules make flying time precious. Ironically, the high-tech aspects of our 

work lives have now spilled over into our hobby. Who would have ever 

dreamed that we would have fuel-injected model airplane engines or that 

real-time, onboard flight-monitoring systems would become a reality? All 

this technology is great, but every pilot's hangar needs a bird that is just 

plain fun! That's where the Tower Hobbies Uproar ARF fits in. This all-balsa 

and plywood design incorporates a permanently attached wing, and the 

result is a strong structure with a flyaway weight of about 4 pounds. Add to 

that great looks, minimal build time and a wide-ranging flight envelope that 

is stable and predictable yet still capable of outlandish 3D maneuvers, and 

you have a model that's perfect for any fun seeker. 

MAY 2005 65

TOWER HOBBIES UPROAR 40 ARF 

IN THE BOX 

With the wide selection of sport-aerobatic, 

3D-capable, .40-size ARFs on the market, 

selecting the "right" one is a matter of weighing 

quality, appearance, performance and 

price. Based on these criteria, the Tower 

Hobbies Uproar 40 ARF is a winner. The 

all-balsa and plywood airframe is expertly 

constructed and has been covered with ironon 

material in an attractive multicolored 

scheme. The kit also features 3/16-inch main 

landing-gear wire, 21/2-inch main wheels, a 

1-inch tailwheel, an adjustable molded-nylon 

engine mount, an 8-ounce fuel tank, CA-style 

Glue the wing into place by sliding it out of position 

by about 1/4 Inch; then apply epoxy, and slide 

It back Into position so the epoxy Is between the 

wing and the fuselage structure. 

I used clear nail polish to hold the pointed ends of 

the graphics down. I've found that this method 

helps the decals stay put even after numerous 

cleanings. 

hinges, wooden servo trays, a tinted canopy, 

a hardware package and photo-illustrated 

instructions. Best of all, this ARF builds fast 

and straight; in 10 hours or less, you will 

move from the workbench to the flightline 

for some exhilarating fun. 

CONSTRUCTION 

>Attaching the wing and tail feathers 

Permanently attach the one-piece wing to 

the fuselage by removing the covering material 

from the fuselage at the wing cutouts and 

then sliding the wing into position. The fact 

that a built-up balsa and plywood wing can 

be slid into position through two fuselage 

cutouts is testimony to the high quality and 

accuracy of this ARF's construction. After 

you've properly positioned the wing, mark 

the area on it where you'll remove the covering 

material. Slide the wing out, remove the 

covering material, reinstall the wing and 

then glue it to the fuselage with 30-minute 

epoxy. Make sure that the wing is accurately 

positioned while the epoxy cures, and be 

sure to clean off any excess epoxy with denatured 

alcohol and paper towels. 

The elevator is in halves that are joined by 

a stiff U-shape wire. All the pieces have been 


MODEL: Uproar 40 ARF 

MANUFACTURER: Tower Hobbies 

TYPE: fun-fly 


WINGSPAN: 48 in. 


WEIGHT: 4 lb. 1 oz. 


ENGINE REQ'D: .32 to .46 2-stroke or 

.40 to .52 4-stroke 

RADIO REQ'D: 4-channel with 5 

standard servos (rudder, elevator, 

throttle, 2 ailerons) 

PRICE: $84.99 

COMMENTS 

This is a quick-building ARF that is versatile 

enough for seat-of : 

the-pants 3D 

aerobatics or gentle touch-and-go's. 

Whatever your preference, the Tower 

Hobbies Uproar 40 ARF aims to please. 

HIGHLIGHTS 

>Laser-cut parts and topnotch 

construction 

>Assembles fast and straight 

>Permanently attached wing 

minimizes weight 

prefit, so assembly is a snap. I epoxied the 

halves together and allowed the assembly to 

cure on a flat surface. The horizontal and 

vertical stabs interlock onto the fuselage 

easily and precisely. Prefit these parts to 

check for proper alignment and then attach 

them with 30-minute epoxy. Again, make 

sure that everything stays in alignment while 

the epoxy cures, and be sure to clean off any 

excess epoxy. After you've put the wing and 

tail feathers into place, attach the ailerons, 

the elevator and the rudder/tailwheel assembly 

with the included hinges. 

Engine mount, fuel tank and landing gear 

The fuselage comes with blind nuts installed 

This picture shows the wing in place. The fact that you can slide a built-up balsa and plywood wing into 

position through two fuselage cutouts testifies to the quality and accuracy of this ARF.

for attaching the adjustable engine mount. 

All that's needed here is to install your 

engine on the mount and to attach the 

throttle linkage. With the engine in place, 

install the supplied fuel tank on a layer of 

1/4-inch RC foam rubber, run your fuel lines 

and secure the fuel-tank hatch with the provided 

screws. The instruction manual states 

that the model will typically require tail 

weight if you install a heavier engine. In this 

case, to minimize the amount of weight 

needed, position the engine as far back on 

the mount as you possibly can. Since I was 

installing an O.S. FX .46, I positioned the 

engine all the way to the back of the engine 

mount and left just enough room to run the 

fuel lines. The last step here is to attach the 

landing gear and lightweight foam wheels. 

>Radio installation Access to the radio compartment 

is through a hatch at the bottom of 

the plane. The removable hatch also includes 

two cutouts that I used to install a switch 

and a battery-charging jack. Install the servos 

in the fuselage as instructed, and then attach 

the control rods with the provided hardware. 

The ailerons use twin servos. You can 

connect the two servos using a Y-harness or, 

if you're going to use a computer radio, you 

can choose to install the ailerons on separate 

channels. I opted to use separate channels 

because this allows more control options 

such as aileron differential or flaperons. 

With the O.S. FX .46 installed and the battery 

pack mounted as far back as possible in 

the radio compartment, I ended up burying 

3 ounces of lead in the tail to balance at dead 

center of the recommended range. I felt that 

3 ounces in the tail was a small price to pay 

in exchange for bolting the powerful O.S. FX 

.46 on the nose. 

FINAL TOUCHES 

The next order of business is to cut out and 

attach the tinted canopy. I used Formula 560 

canopy glue from Zap to achieve a strong, 

clear bond. As an additional step, I dabbed 

clear fingernail polish on the pointed edges 

of the iron-on graphics. Although the graphics 

were well attached at the factory, it has 

been my experience that fuel residue and 

cleanups tend to cause those delicate edges 

to curl up. Clear fingernail polish prevents 

this, and it also works well as thread-lock. 

All that's left now is to set the control 

throws, double-check the model's CG and— 

by all means—take a few minutes to go 

through the checklist at the end of the 

instruction manual so that your first flights 

are successful. Now it's off to the field. 

CONCLUSION 

The Tower Hobbies Uproar ARF is an excellent 

fun-fly airplane for intermediate to 

advanced pilots. The flight characteristics of 

this great-looking ARF will easily meet the 

needs of laidback weekend fliers as well as 

hot-dogging extremists. If you're looking for 

an attractive, great-flying plane that's light 

and priced right, take a look at the Tower 

Hobbies Uproar ARF. It will put a smile on 

your face—guaranteed! 



IN THE AIR 

IN THE AIR 

The Tower Hobbies Uproar has power 

to spare. Its ground-handling characteristics 

are solid, and It lands like a trainer; 

but it's what happens between takeoffs 

and landings that makes this ARF 

a blast to fly. Lightening-fast rolls, 

incredible snaps and extremely tight 

loops can be flown with ease, yet this 

bird is just as comfortable settling 

down for some split-S maneuvers, stall 

turns, or inverted flight. 


Elevator: ±3/4 in. (high); ±1/2 in. (low); 

expo 40% 

Aileron: ±3/4 in. (high); ±1/2 in. (low); 

expo 40% 

Rudder: ±l1/4 in. (high/low); expo 40% 


>Stability: this plane is stable and predictable 

throughout all throttle settings 

both on the ground and in the air. 

>Tracking: the Uproar tracks nicely in 

all attitudes, and the control responses 

are crisp and accurate. 

> Aerobatics: yes! If you can provide 

the input, the Uproar will carry out the 

command! 

>Glide performance: outstanding; 

during one flight, I deadsticked the 

Uproar at about 40 feet with zero airspeed. 

I simply pushed the nose over 

to regain airspeed and gently landed 

without incident. 

>Stalls: with such light wing loading, 

you really have to work to stall this airplane. 

When the Uproar does stall, the 

stall Is gentle, and there is no tendency 

to drop a wingtip. 


One thing I like about the Uproar is its 

permanently attached wing. The plane 

is quite literally ready to fly once you 

arrive at the field. 

Very little runway is needed to get 

this plane airborne, and once in the air, 

the light airframe allows altitude to be 

gained quickly. The plane flies consistently 

throughout alt power settings, 

and despite the oversize control surfaces, 

the Uproar does not tend to get 

"twitchy" at higher airspeeds. This 

plane goes exactly where you point it. 

This plane is completely aerobatic 

and is capable of almost any maneuver, 

but it is also exceptionally stable and 

easy to fly. Slow-speed flight is 

completely predictable, and the control 

surfaces never feel sluggish or unresponsive. 

Light wing loading and a fully 

symmetrical airfoil allow this plane to 

bridge varying flight envelopes to meet 

the needs of almost any flier.

BY JOHN REID PHOTOS BY DERON NEBLETT 

W 

WHY SHOULD I SPEND THE EXTRA MONEY 

for digital servos?" This is probably the 

number-one question that fliers ask me 

whenever I talk to them about radio gear. 

There are many reasons why digital servos are 

worth the extra expense, but there are a few 

reasons why it may not be worthwhile to buy 

them. Before we discuss any of their pros 

and cons, however, let's talk about how digital 

servos work. 

DIGITAL

THE DIGITAL ADVANTAGE 

On the outside, digital servos look like high-quality analog 

(standard) servos. They have the same motor (and sometimes 

the same gear train); however, a digital servo contains a 

microprocessor that provides quicker response time and stronger 

holding power. The presence of the microprocessor (a tiny 

computer) is the primary difference between a digital servo and 

a standard servo. It significantly affects the way a digital 

servo functions. 

A conventional servo compares the receiver's command with 

the actual position of its output shaft each time the receiver 

sends a new pulse command. The pulse is just one part of the 

body of digital information being transmitted to the receiver. 

Depending on the brand of radio and the number of channels 

being transmitted, information is typically sent about 40 to 50 

times per second. 

A digital servo's microprocessor meters the position of the 

output shaft much more frequently—typically, at 300 times per 

second—and that is six times faster than a standard servo's capa 

bility. This rapid updating gives the digital servo a much quicker 

response time than a standard servo can provide. 

Ace Hobby's new line of digital servos offers power and performance. 

Available with JR- and Futaba-compatible connectors, the 

DS1013 and the DS1211 offer up to 180.5 and 149.9 oz.-in. of 

torque, respectively. 

Digital servos don't have to be giants. This Polo Digi 4 from 

Multiplex has a case that measures l1/4x7/8X1/2 inches. It features 

a 3-pole ferrite motor, metal gears and dual ball bearings, and It 

delivers 39 to 49 oz.-in. (4.8 to 6 volts) of torque. 

As you can see, digital servos come in all shapes and sizes. Big or small, there's one that's perfect for any applicatio

The Hitec Digital Servo Programmer can also be used to test any brand of 

transmitter for the pulse sent to the receiver as well as the servo voltage 

and proper servo-arm movement. 

A digital servo's rapid updating also creates a stronger 

control-arm command. For example, if you try to rotate the 

servo arm of a digital servo from the position it has been commanded 

to hold, it will attempt to correct that position six 

times faster and thereby develop its maximum torque much 

more quickly than a standard servo. A standard servo does 

not develop its maximum torque until the servo arm has been 

displaced many degrees from its desired position. In contrast, 

the digital servo reaches its maximum torque after a much 

smaller rotation of the servo arm. This gives the digital servo 

a much greater centering position and much more power. 

That is why you'll often notice a high-pitched hum emanating 

from a plane that uses digital servos. The sound is generated as 

the digital servos labor to continue holding the output 

shaft's position. 

CUSTOMIZE YOUR DIGITAL SERVOS 

With their precision and powerful performance, digital servos 

have a lot to offer, and some brands even allow you to reprogram 

their microprocessors. All Hitec digital servos are programmable 

with the HFP-10 Digital Servo Programmer that 

allows modelers to change the travel direction, servo speed, 

neutral point, endpoints and fail-safe position. 

Of course, you could program all of that through higher-end 

computer radio systems, but if you program the servos, you'll 

be able to use less equipment inside the aircraft, and that saves 

weight. For example, dual flaps or dual-elevator surfaces require 

one servo to operate clockwise and another to operate counterclockwise. 

This typically requires two extra channels on the 

receiver for each servo plug, and then the appropriate channels 

have to be mixed together. With the HFP-10, each digital servo 

can be programmed with the correct rotation, identical deadband 

width, neutral points and endpoints. Now the two servos 

can be plugged into a Y-harness and then into one channel on 

the receiver without any radio mixing. 

The latest generation of Hitec servos comes with a custom-designed, 

programmable circuit and the super-durable Alumite/MP gear train. The 

powerful HS-5645MG is perfect for high-torque applications, while the 

HS-5245MG Is Ideal when a small, lightweight, high-speed, high-torque 

servo is needed. 

MAY 2005 73

Mike McConville smiles for the camera 

while he takes a break at the 2004 

Don Lowe World Masters. 

Digital servos in competition 

ONE OF THE MOST SIGNIFICANT TECHNOLOGICAL ADVANCES IN RECENT 

years to aid in aerobatic flying is undoubtedly the advent of digital 

servos. Whether you are into precision aerobatics, 3D, or just simple 

sport aerobatics, you must not overlook them. 

Because I'm a serious aerobatics competitor, I'm always interested In 

getting the absolute most out of my airplanes, so I was quick to give digital 

servos a try. Also, being blessed with the opportunity to work for Horizon 

Hobby—the exclusive Importer of JR radios—I was fortunate to be among 

the first in the U.S. to try digital servos. I'll never forget my amazement 

when I first installed JR 8411 digital servos in a 40-percent Carden CAP 

232 back in early 1999. The difference in feel was very evident—and 

very good. 

The real advantage of using digital servos is the holding torque. Simply 

put, a digital servo achieves its maximum torque when it is pushed off its 

commanded position by just a few degrees. Typically, an analog servo 

does not achieve its full torque until it is deflected from its commanded 

position by more than 20 degrees. 

This holding torque makes a huge difference In the way a model flies. 

When an airplane flies, the control surfaces are subjected to many forces. 

Turbulence and other aerodynamic forces can be very strong on the 

JR servos are a very popular choice 

among competition and sport fliers 

alike. The 8231 features tremendous 

holding power compared with a standard 

analog servo, and it has 5,900 

steps per 120 degrees of resolution. It 

control surfaces and will move them aw 

from the position they are supposed to 

holding. The lower the holding torque of 

servo connected to the surface, the mor 

external forces will affect control-surface 

tioning. When this happens, the airplan 

reacts as if this was a commanded inpu 

As a result, the model does not lock on; 

moves around, so it won't track straight 

through loops, the wings wiggle, and co 

feels mushy. 

Let's assume you know that a partic 

model requires 100 oz.-in. of torque to h 

the ailerons at neutral under normal flig 

loads, and you install an analog servo th 

rated for that much torque. Flight loads 

push the aileron away from the position 

servo is trying to hold until the servo is m 

more than 20 degrees; at that point, it p 

duces 100 oz.-in. of torque. 

Look at the same scenario with a 100 oz.-in. digital servo installe 

aileron can only be moved until the servo has been pushed a few de 

it then produces 100 oz.-in. of torque and stops the movement. The 

is that the model feels much more solid; it tracks better, and control 

feels crisp and responsive. I've found that when I switch a model from 

log to digital servos, I need to increase the amount of expo. This is g 

evidence that the digital servos are pushing the surface more positiv 

and aren't allowing the forces of the flight loads to win the battle, an 

eliminates the mushy feeling. 

Using digital servos has a few drawbacks, though. Digital servos 

cally cost more than analog servos. The new sport digital servos suc 

the JR 811, however, reduce that cost differential significantly. The o 

other issue is that digital servos use a little more battery power than 

analogs. Because they fight much harder to hold their positions, the 

works harder. That's why digital servos make a high-pitched buzzing 

sound. The motor is being pulsed at a high frequency, and thus, it wo 

harder and faster. For me, this isn't a big issue; I simply use a slightly 

larger battery pack. 

Regardless of the type of aerobatics you fly, give digitals a try. I'm 

ing to bet that you'll never look back. 

—Mike McC

To satisfy the power requirements of digital servos, you can use various 

types of power supplies that range from Airtronics' more powerful, 

standard-size Ni-Cd ll00mAh to the larger Extra 3000mAh Ni-Cd from 

JR. For longer flight times, trying using lithium-ion batteries from 

Duralite or Li-poly batteries from manufacturers such as Multiplex. 

Pump it up! 

DIGITAL SERVOS' POWER CONSUMPTION IS A DRAWBACK; 

to supply their remarkable precision and holding power, digital 

servos use more power than standard servos. Although it isn't a 

significant disadvantage, it's something to be aware of. 

Once you've made a decision to use digital servos in your air 

craft, keep in mind that you'll need more battery power. You could 

use one larger battery or separate power supplies for each group 

of servos (easily done if you use JR Matchbox or Futaba MSA-10 

servo-matching systems). Using a 6V power supply (5-cell NiMH or 

Ni-Cd) would be preferable to using 4.5V (4-cell) batteries. Li-polys 

and Li-ions are also excellent choices for power, but their output 

voltage will have to be brought down to 6 volts with a regulator. 

It's a good idea to add an onboard battery monitor to check 

the battery's condition. At the very least, you should have easy 

access to the batteries so that you can check their power levels 

with a hand-held meter. Buy a 12V battery charger for the type of 

cells installed. In that way, the batteries can be topped off just 

before the flight and guarantee the maximum power reserve. 

As you can see, the one downside to using digital servos 

(other than cost) is easily overcome. With the proper power supply 

and monitoring, digital servos provide precision, solid control and 

safety to models of any size. 

Futaba is no stranger to high-quality radio gear and servos. Its 

S-series of digital servos continues the tradition. The massive S5 

delivers 264 oz.-in. of torque, while the S9152 provides an impres 

278 oz.-in. of torque; both come with metal gears. 

This same programming advantage can be used when yo 

"gang" digital servos together for a single control surface. 

can custom-tune digital servos so that they all have iden 

movements, and that allows the servos to be slaved toge 

for a common task without their fighting over the ne 

position. This will prevent unnecessary draining of the 

borne battery pack. 

MAY 2005

The JR Matchbox and Futaba M5A-10 allow you to synchronize up to 

four servos so they move in harmony with one another. This is important 

when using two digital servos on one control surface because if 

they are not synchronized, they will quickly drain the flight battery. 

Working together 

WITH THE TREMENDOUS HOLDING POWER THAT DIGITAL SERVOS 

have, you might think that there would be no reason to use more 

than one of them on any control surface, but you would be wrong. 

Many available models are so large (or have such large control sur 

faces) that the only way to achieve a safe positive control is to 

gang up the servos on each control surface. Because of their pre 

cise response to control-stick inputs, digital servos are the perfect 

choice when you have to use more than one servo on a control 

surface. 

When you have multiple digital servos on a control surface, 

each servo must be precisely matched to the other to minimize 

excessive draining of the flight batteries because the servos will 

fight each other if their travel points are different. To achieve this 

harmony amongst the servos, you can use devices such as JR's 

Matchbox or Futaba's MSA-10. 

The Matchbox and MSA-10 allow you to synchronize the neu 

trals, endpoints and servo direction of up to four servos from a sin 

gle receiver channel. Precision control of each servo's movement 

guarantees that all the servos on a single control surface will work 

together efficiently and in harmony. These servo-matching systems 

allow each set of servo groups to have its own independent power 

source (battery), and that allows all the power from the main flight 

battery to go directly to the receiver. 

To minimize the number of servo leads and their length, the 

Matchbox and MSA-10 can be mounted close to the control sur 

faces. Each servo plug can go into the servo-matching system, and 

then, just one servo wire is connected from the Matchbox or 

MSA-10 to the appropriate receiver port. This eliminates the mas 

sive clutter of wires that snake their way through the inside of the 

aircraft to the receiver. 

If your plane requires multiple digital servos for each control 

surface, servo-matching systems will make installation easier and 

allow all of the servos to work in concert. 

Airtronics offers a complete line of digital servos. Available with p 

or metal gears, these servos can be operated on 4.8 to 6 vol 

range from 73 to 115 oz.-in. of torque. 

This is just a sample of the advantages offered by 

servos, and we've only scratched the surface of the Hitec 

Servo Programmer HFP-10's programming capabilities! 

ARE DIGITAL SERVOS FOR YOU? 

Many non-digital, high-torque/high-speed servos are a 

and they may meet your plane's needs without your ha 

switch to digital servos. If you're on a tight budget, i 

sense to continue using standard servos. Standard servos 

a better choice for control surfaces that tend to jam, 

flaps, retracts and spoilers. A jammed digital servo will 

deplete battery power and will add significant stress to a 

linkages. Don't use a high-powered digital servo to ove 

binding linkage; the servo will simply fight with full po 

ing to overcome the bad linkage setup. 

Use digital servos when you need precision control o 

holding power. If you need higher torque in a small ser 

tal servos are a good choice. Just remember: the faster th 

flies or the larger the control surfaces, the more you wil 

from using digital servos in the plane. Ask any pilot w 

used digital servos; he will tell you to switch. 

See the Source Guide on page 151 for manufacturers' con

82 MODEL AIRPLANE NEWS 

BY GERRY YARRISH 

PHOTO BY DERON NEBLETT 

IN TODAY'S PC-, CD- AND DVD-FILLED WORLD, IT'S TOUGH TO REMEMBER TIME 

when there weren't any RC aircraft flight simulators. Almost 20 years into this 

virtual wonderland, we almost take them for granted; they're viewed as a fully 

established part of our hobby. There is a plethora of flight simulators to choose 

from, and each has its own distinct flavor and style. Compared with the pro 

grams we used just a few short years ago, the newest generation of sims is simply 

amazing. The Aerofly Professional Deluxe from Ikarus is one of the newest, and it 

has a lot to offer. 

Flying: the Ikarus Aerofly Professional Deluxe 

At a glance, this impressive flight sim offers more than 50 extremely well-detailed 

aircraft to fly, and that includes 3D aerobats, turbine-powered jets, scale and sport 

airplanes, biplanes, gliders and helicopters. Aerofly offers many enjoyable 

landscapes in which to fly, such as club flying fields, farm pastures and even the 

deck of the aircraft carrier USS Enterprise. If you like what you've read so far, hold 

on; there's a whole lot more to see. Let's take these virtual airplanes for a spin!

This turbine-powered Learjet is a blast 

to fly! No fear of damaging an expensive 

Model Specialties aircraft here; the 

model looks, sounds and reacts just 

like Mark Frankel's older Top Gun-competing 

Learjet 35A! 

GET CONNECTED 

Getting your ticket for this first-class flight 

sim is as easy as dropping the CD into your 

PC and hitting the install button; the Install 

Wizard takes care of everything. Once you 

have the program installed, plug in the USB 

cable, attach the adapter plug that matches 

your transmitter and start the sim. 

Remember to turn your transmitter on! I 

used a Hitec Optic 6, and it worked perfectly. 

From here, it's all about the menus. 

The main screen has several options to 

investigate. At the top of the list is the 

Aircraft button (there are actually two aircraft 

buttons, so you can fly with someone else if 

you like, as long as you have a second controller). 

When you click the button, it brings 

up a screen that features 35 airplanes, 5 gliders 

and 15 helicopters to choose from. Each 

aircraft is shown in the main window, and 

when you highlight it, a small description 

that provides the model's basic information 

is displayed. You can also edit the aircraft's 

specifications and add your own setups to 

the list of choices. 

The scenery button brings you to the 

environment-selection screen. There are 14 

locations that range from club flying fields 

and farmers' pastures to airstrips in the Alps 

complete with rustic log cabins. You could 

also choose a full-size airport or an indoor 

basketball court complete with scoreboard, 

ceiling beams and bleachers—the perfect setting 

for flying the many electric slow flyers 

available. "Sparling Field" is my favorite: it's 

a dead ringer for my local club facility, and 

it's complete with safety fences, parking lot 

and a pit area. 

CONTROL SETUP & LOCATIONS 

Being able to use your own radio with the 

sim is a great feature. It allows you to adjust 

the controls with your radio's own menu or 

go to the Controls screen and assign the 

channels and control directions. With multiple 

channels, controls such as flaps and 

retracts are available to you. Simple things, 

such as using the servo-reversing switches 

and dual-rate switches on your transmitter, 

T he 

make Aerofly feel very real. If you have 

enough channels, there's even a function 

that controls the sweep-back action of the 

F-14 Tomcat's wings! 

The amount of control you have isn't 

limited by the radio you use; the General 

Options menu allows adjustment for wind 

speed and turbulence (including thermal 

action), surface roughness, the operational 

speed of the sim itself, playback speed, the 

restart time after a crash (from 1 to 60 seconds 

and much more). 

On the help screen, you'll find useful 

shortcut information. The keystrokes 

quickly bring up information sub-windows 

and different views. You can view the 

model from a fixed point on the ground, 

from the cockpit and in follow mode 

(where you view the model from a chaseplane 

vantage point). The follow window 

is also great for exploring the various virtual 

landscapes available in the program. 

There's a lot more to see besides the 

confines of the local flying field. You can 

fly through city blocks and between skyscrapers, 

through and under bridges, over 

and under highway overpasses and 

between trees; you can even land on top of 

aircraft-choice window shows all the models, 

so you Just point and click on the one you want. 

The aircraft you select appears in a larger-view 

window with a brief description. 


IKARUS AEROFLY 

PROFESSIONAL DELUXE 

MANUFACTURER: IPACS 

DISTRIBUTOR: Ikarus USA 

FUNCTION: RC flight 

simulator for home PC 

PRICE: $179 (CD with USB 

cable and transmitter 

adaptor plugs); $229 

(including USB game 

Commander joystick 

controller); $79.95 

(Aerofly Pro Update—cables 

and CD exchange required) 

MINIMUM COMPUTER 

SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS 

>Pentium III/4 or AMD 

Athlon/64 processor with at 

least 1GHz 

>128MB RAM 

>1GB free hard-drive memory 

>Windows 98/ME/2000/XP 

with DirectX version 9.0 

or higher 

>DirectX sound card 

>CD-R0M drive 

>0pen GL Graphic card with 

at least 64MB 

>1 free USB port 

>l transmitter with a trainer 

output socket 

RECOMMENDED SYSTEM 

>Pentium 4 or AMD 64 

processor with at least 

1.5GHz 

>512MB 

>Open GL graphic card with 

at least 128MB 

SIMULATOR TESTED WITH 

>EPOX 8ROA Athlon 

Processor with 2100MHz+ 

>Windows XP Pro 

>512MB DDR 

>52X/24X/52X CD-ROM 

>GeForce Ti4200 AGP video 

card with 64MB 

COMMENTS 

The Ikarus Aerofly 

Professional Deluxe is a 

great flight simulator with 

many impressive features 

and functions. Out of 

the box. most of the 

program's model 

airplanes have a totally 

convincing, realistic feel.

This close-up shows the surface. 

reflection qualities of the Gee Bee 

Model R-l racer. Notice the flight 

info data window in the lower 

right-hand corner. 

Here's a scene straight out of the 

movie "Top Gun"! The F-14 Tomcat 

is a perfect model to fly off the 

USS Enterprise aircraft carrier! 

The aerobatic Christen Eagle biplane is 

one of my favorites. It's just one of the 

many aircraft that are featured in the 

Aerofly flight sim. 

snow-covered mountain peaks. Once you 

start exploring, it becomes very obvious that 

a lot of work went into developing Aerofly. 

CLOSE UP AND PERSONAL 

I think the thing that makes everything seem 

so real is the program's attention to detail. 

The outer surfaces have a reflective quality 

that changes as the airplane taxis by. The 

control surfaces move according to your control 

settings (a little for low rate and a lot for 

high rates). Some planes have servos and 

pushrods showing, and the Ikarus Shock 

Super Star 3D indoor profile flyer even has a 

prop protector complete with small rubber 

band to hold the prop in place. When you're 

at a flying field, you can taxi up to the pit 

area and see things like the sign over the 

clubhouse door and a field box on a work 

table. The detail is everywhere, and that 

includes the hangar deck of the aircraft 

carrier! And yes—you can even fly your 

model into and through it! Another very 

convincing detail is how your model reacts 

to surface roughness. When you taxi the 

model, there are little jolts and bounces that 

look totally real. I love it! 

ADD SOME RAZZLE-DAZZLE 

So, what else can you do with this impressive 

package of VR RC? Well, there are several neat 

special features you can try out for size. In the 

View menu, the Trace option paints a very 

long translucent ribbon behind your airplane 

as it flies. I thought this was a great visual aid 

that shows you where you have already been. 

If you want to fly maneuvers in an aerobatic 

box, you're able to see exactly where your last 

heading was in relation to your entry and exit 

points! How about smoke? Sure, we got 

smoke; you can even change its density and 

color! 3D maneuvers such as hovering and 

torque rolls are also possible.

LEARNING TO FLY A HELICOPTER 0ft TRYING NEW MANEUVERS can 

be a time-consuming and expensive venture. When machine and 

earth meet for an unscheduled arrival, the dirt always wins. Enter 

flight simulators, which have evolved from primitive wire-frame 

models that flew against a stark blank background to what they 

are today: highly detailed models that fly exceptionally well in a 

variety of realistic venues. 

Aerofly Professional Deluxe (AFPD) has taken the flight-sim 

world by storm, and after I logged some hours on it, it was easy to 

see why. AFPD offers 15 helis that range from the fixed-pitch 

Piccolo Fun micro hell to multi-blade scale ships to all-out 3Dcapable 

mounts. No flight sim can completely capture the actual 

RC experience, but AFPD comes very close—especially with helicopters. 

Let's take a took. 

m 

Here, our virtual pilot hovers the Three Dee Inverted. The Raptor 30 is a great heli for learning the basics of hovering. 

After I loaded the program but before I started to fly, I had to 

assign the channels to match my transmitter. You'll find the channel-assignment 

screen under the Control option on the main 

menu. I used a Futaba 9C, and this procedure was pretty straightforward. 

Next, click the Advanced button on the bottom of the window 

and activate the heli-specific functions such as cyclic, pitch, 

tail rotor, etc. With this basic setup, you're ready to fly; however, if 

you want to maximize the flight sim's capabilities, you have to go 

one step further. At the top of the Advanced menu screen are four 

bar graphs that move in sync with the throttle stick. Disable numbers 

2, 3 and 4 by changing the default value from 100 to 0. 

Doing that allowed me to use the radio's idle-up throttle-curve programming. 

Now you can fine-tune the virtual model's performance 

by using the programming features available in your transmitter. 

I flew all of the available helicopters and found all of them to 

be fun to fly and realistic. They can be grouped in three categories: 

scale, electric-powered and aerobatic/3D. All six of the scale 

machines have that characteristic heavier feel to them, and if 

you've ever flown a scale heli, you'll feel right at home. Two of the 

scale helis, the Eurocopter EC135 and the MD900 Explorer, have 

flybar-less, multi-blade heads. Most multi-blade hells tend to pitch 

up in forward flight and when exiting turns. AFPD minimizes this 

tendency, and that makes the helis a lot easier to fly. My favorite 

scale heli is the MD900 Explorer; it's stable and solid, and it can 

do mild aerobatics if you're so inclined. 

What about a little competition? In the Contest menu, you're able 

to set the scene for a pylon race or a drag race, or a spot landing and 

balloon-popping contest, and you can adjust the time limits. Go into 

the Graphic menu, and you can control visual elements such as 

exhaust, smoke and the aircraft's surface reflective qualities. Add fog 

and clouds, or change it to rainy cloud cover. For an added bonus, 

several of the scenery choices are photo-realistic. These do come at a 

price, though; you can't fly in the follow or the cockpit-view modes. 

So there you have it. With the Aerofly Professional Deluxe, you 

If you like scale hells, the 

MD900 Explorer will really whet 

your appetite. 

If you're into electric power, AFPD has you covered; it offers 

four models, including the popular ECO 8. It's available in a 

brushed-motor version and, for more skilled aerobatic pilots, a 

brushless option is available. Here's a tip to get the most performance 

from the electric helis, especially if you plan to do aerobatics: 

access throttle-curve idle-up 1 or 2 in your radio's programming, 

and change all of the points in the curve to 100 percent. 

Now when you do maneuvers, the power wont sag as you apply 

negative pitch. 

For all-out 3D antics, there are five models to choose from—all 

sparkling aerobats. If you're a fan of the Raptor 30, you're in luck; 

AFPD's rendition is very good. For the big boys, you can choose 

from Miniature Aircraft's flagship the Fury or Robbe's popular 

Millennium 60. My favorite, though, is the Three Dee; if the actual 

model flies anything like the virtual model, I want to get one! Talk 

about outstanding performance, this heli can do it all! I learned 

very quickly how to do maneuvers with this heli that I couldn't do 

with other helis on other flight sims. What more can I say? 

As you can see, Aerofly Professional Deluxe has a lot going for 

it. The models look and feel great, and I really like using my own 

transmitter to program and adjust the models' flight characteristics. 

I can't wait to amaze my flying buddies with the new tricks 

I've learned! 

—Rick Bell 

truly are lord and master of all you survey! You can adjust the 

qualities of the graphics, fine-tune the airplanes to your liking 

fly virtually anywhere. For the serious aerobatic pilot who wan 

to hone his precision or the sport flier who simply wants to fly 

the middle of winter, Aerofly Professional has a tremendous 

amount to offer. It is not only entertaining and exciting but als 

valuable learning tool for improving your flying skills. I highly 

recommend it to pilots of all skill levels. 

See the Source Guide on page 151 for manufacturers' contact information.

Air SCOOP 











TX 75098; (214) 429-0440; fax (214) 442-1899. 











of the famous 













440-5095. 













Acworth, GA 30101; (800) 250-3683, (770) 974-0843; fax (770) 974-6243; 




helicopter, 


modelers Wang 





seconds. They 


record of 



the same type.

A new player in 

the "more power" game 

ECENT ADVANCES IN MODEL ENGINE TECHNOLOGY 

have enabled designers to capture more performance 

from less displacement, even when compared 

with newer engines. Capitalizing on this 

technological race for the holy grail of power is 

the new offering from Horizon Hobby—the 

Evolution .36NT. This engine reestablishes performance 

boundaries found not only in the .36ci 

2-stroke glow-engine class but also in the larger 

.40 and .46 classes. To further enhance the 

Evolution .36NT's performance, I selected a variety 

of one-piece mufflers and tuned pipes from 

Macs Products and dialed in the right header 

size, length and tuned-pipe choice for this very 

potent, scrappy fighter of an engine. 


ENGINEREVIEW BY BRUCE SMITH PHOTOS BY BRUCE SMITH & DERON NEBLETT 

The Evolution .36NT can 

be taken apart completely 

using one Allen wrench. 

The engine's quality Is 

obvious throughout.

SPECIFICATIONS! 

Engine: Evolution .36NT 

Displacement: 354ci 

Bore: 0.806 in. 

Stroke: 0.695 in. 

Carburetor bore: 0.295 in. 

Practical rpm: 2,000 to 16,000 

Weight w/out muffler: 10.3 oz. 

Prop-shaft size: 1/4-in.x28 

Price: $79.99 

ENGINE HIGHLIGHTS 

> Excellent performance. 

> Great packaging. 

> Tools included. 

> Comes with 2 muffler gaskets and 

2 replacement backplate screws. 

The Evolution .36NT is an ABC 2-stroke 

with a standard muffler with two gaskets 

and attachment bolts and a hex wrench; 

a 2-needle-valve carb with high-speed 

needle assembly at the backplate; a 

Hangar 9 glow plug; instruction booklet; 

and a 2-year warranty. 

FEATURES 

As does the entire line of Evolution engines, 

the .36NT possesses all of the user-friendly 

features that make it extremely easy to start 

and operate. The "Set Right" needle-valve 

system is the cornerstone of the Evolution 

line. From the first flip, my test engine ran 

and kept on running—a first for any ABC 

engine that I have run to date. Featuring a 

dual-ball-bearing-supported crankshaft, 

anodized propeller thrust washer and 

needle-assembly parts as well as distinctive 

cooling-fin styling, the .36NT continues to 

prove that the manufacturer's goal of providing 

a ready-to-mount-and-fly, dependable 

and well-made product has been 

irrefutably secured. All Evolution engines so 

far have provided a no-hassle experience 

for modelers. 

The stout, nicely counterbalanced crankshaft has 

a generous intake port opening. 

The piston and bushed conrod are held together 

by a hollow wristpin that's secured in the piston 

skirt with a molded-nylon endcap. 

The stock muffler comes with a fuel-system 

pressure tap. 

The Evolution .36NT comes with a lightweight, 

reasonably quiet muffler, a Hangar 9 

glow plug, a 2-year warranty and a comprehensive 

instruction booklet. 

RUNNING THE .36NT 

The .36NT is very easy to start. Attach the fuel 

line, choke the venturi opening with your finger, 

and flip the prop several times until fuel 

fills the line between the remote needle valve 

and the carburetor. Open the throttle to about 

1/4 turn, attach the glow driver, and flip the 

prop again to start. My engine fired up and 

ran continuously from the very beginning. 

The little pin in the end of the "Set 

Right" needle-valve system limits how 

much high-end adjustment you can 

make. It works great! 

PORT OPENS (deg.) CLOSES (deg.) DURATION (deg.) 

All measurements are from TDC 

Key: TDC = top dead center; BDC = bottom dead center; A = after; 

104

ENGINIEREVIEW 

TUNED PIPES OFFER ANY 2-STR0KE ENGINE 

a substantial Increase in power output. 

The principle Is pretty simple: 2-stroke 

engines are designed to have a certain 

amount of time—or overlap—when 

both the Intake and the exhaust ports 

are open. This occurs during the power 

stroke, or downstroke, of the piston 

(after combustion). The overlap Is 

designed to use outgoing exhaust force 

to draw In the next intake charge 

before the next combustion event. This 

is also the reason that 2-stroke glow 

engines spit out a certain amount of 

unburned fuel, which also helps to cool 

the engine. 

A tuned-pipe system comprises a 

header pipe, a silicone-tube coupler 

I tested the engine with Macs Products one-piece 

mufflers in place of the stock one. The Performance 

Evaluation Tests chart shows how well they did. 

I used the recommended 9x6 prop for the first 

few runs. Evolution engines are promoted as 

needing 6 94 95 no 97 break-in, 

93 

and this is true; my test 

engine's performance was flawless and steady 

from the get-go, and it had good throttle transition. 

Nevertheless, you should still run a couple 

The Evolution .36NT was tested 

with Macs Products tuned pipes 

and headers (see the chart below 

for details). 

and the expansion-chamber muffler. 

The tuned" aspect refers to determining 

the header length that enables the 

engine to obtain the greatest rpm gain. 

Tuning an expansion-chamber system 

requires cutting the header's length a 

little at a time and testing the system 

for an rpm reading at each Interval. 

Typically, shortening the header raises 

the rpm until you reach a point at 

which the rpm reading decreases. 

That's when you stop cutting. 

The performance principle at work 

with a tuned system Is a basic form of 

supercharging. A tuned-exhaust system 

creates supercharging by Increasing the 

intake of the engine to a volume 

greater than It would normally draw In. 

The "overlap" of the Intake and exhaust 

ports allows this overflow of Intake to 

pass through the engine and partly Into 

the expansion chamber. The sound 

wave from the previous exhaust stroke 

travels to the end of the chamber and 

is then reflected back to the engine, 

acting like a plunger forcing the overabundance 

of mixture back into the 

engine. The net result is a cylinder 

that's packed with more combustion 

mixture than It would obtain If normally 

"aspirated"—thus, It's supercharged. 

The tuning of the system Is actually 

"timing" the moment the pressure 

wave returns to the exhaust port before 

the port closes for the next combustion 

event or power stroke. The increased 

volume of Intake charge makes more 

power—end of story. 

My two favorite publications for 

additional reading on tuned-exhaust 

systems are "All About Engines" by 

Harry Higley and "Basics of Model 

Marine Engines" by Alan Hobbs— 

published by Air Age Media. 

The bottom line on tuned pipes is 

more power, rpm and fuel consumption. 

Temperature: 70 deg F 

Humidity: 29% 

Barometer: 30.13 

Fuel: Wildcat 10% nitro/18% oil (80/20 mix synthetic/degummed castor) 

Fuel consumption: 1 oz. per min. (8.75x5 @ 17,650rpm) 

Propellers: all APC 

Decibels measured at 3 meters 

Prop 8.75x5 9x5 9x6 9x6N 10x3 10x4 

dB 95 95 96 95 96 95 

Rpm 16,900 16,350 15,200 16,650 16,050 14.550 

With Macs Products muffler no. 6340 for .21 to .38 engines 

Prop 8.75x5 9x5 9x6 9x6N 10x3 10x4 

dB 96 96 94 95 96 95 

Rpm 16,410 16,020 15,150 16,620 16,350 15,350 

With Macs Products muffler no. 6650 for .35 to .46 engines 

Prop 8.75x5 9x5 9x6 9x6n 10x3 10x4 

Rrpm 16,500 16,250 15,300 16350 16,320 15,150 

With Macs Products header no. 2650 for .40 to .44 engine & Macs tuned pipe no. 1230—6.5c 

Prop 8.75x5 9x5 9x6 9x6N 10x3 10x4

ENGINEREVIEW 

The main carburetor body and the remote highend 

needle-valve assembly are connected by a 

short piece of fuel tubing. The needle valve is held 

in place with two of the backplate bolts. 

The .36NT 

belts out impressive 

p e r f o r m a n c e n u m b e r s 

The .36NT's performance is impressive 

and exceeded my expectations. For my evaluation, 

I selected a variety of APC propellers 

and very carefully balanced them all. As the 

performance tables with the standard muffler 

suggest, the .36NT cranks up some pretty 

high revs, and changing to a tuned-pipe system 

opens the envelope even wider. In addition 

to testing the engine's tuned-exhaust 

performance, I wanted the Macs one-piece 

mufflers to prove their merit. I used two 

Macs mufflers of different volumes and 

dimensions, but they had the same attachment-bolt 

spacing. The smaller one (item no. 

6340) is designed for .21 to .38ci engines, 

and the larger unit (no. 6650) is suggested for 

.36 to .46 engines (refer to the Performance 

Evaluation Tests chart). These mufflers are a 

great alternative to the stock unit and offer 

similar performance as well as low noise, 

lighter weight and economy of design—all 

wrapped up in a trick matte-black finish. 

FINAL THOUGHTS 

The .36NT belts out impressive performance 

numbers with both short and long (lowpitch) 

propellers, so it's a great choice for 

fun-fly, sport, aerobatic and Quickie 500 

designs. Run it with the stock exhaust or the 

tuned-exhaust system, and for the price, I 

think you'd be hard-pressed to find an 

engine of any displacement that can match 

the Evolution .36NT. I like the tuned-pipe 

option, but again, that's me. You decide! 

See the Source Guide on page 1S1 for manufacturers' 


EVOLUTION .36NT AND THE PIPE 

NOT KNOWING HOW THE EVOLUTION .36 would 

respond to a tuned-exhaust system raised 

the question of which header/pipe combination 

to use. As David McAllister of Macs 

Products pointed out, some engines prefer 

more backpressure than others. I could find 

the solution only by testing two individual 

exhaust systems, the first one being used 

typically for .21 to .36ci engines (1/2-inch 

header tube) and the second being typical of 

larger, .40ci, displacement engines (5/8-inch 

header tube). Both systems were Macs 

"muffled" pipes. After a few hours of tinkerng 

with the smaller system without its showing 

much improvement, I switched to the 

larger one; it was clear which system worked 

better and was easier to tune: the .40ci system 

with lower backpressure 

(header no. 2650; tuned 

pipe no. 1230). The 

optimum header 

length is with 1/2 

inch removed 

from the header. 

With significant gains in 

rpm across the prop chart, the 

Evolution .36NT responded very well 

t 

o the higher performance Macs 

tuned-pipe system. With the increased 

flow of fuel and air, the high-speed 

needle valve needs a few more turns richer. 

Although I didn't experience any significant 

air-bleed problems with the needle backed 

out that far, I'd prefer the manufacturer to 

add an additional O-ring, as the needle has 

a fair amount of play and wiggle room. A 

piece of large-i.d. silicone fuel tubing over the 

needle-valve stem and sleeve will remedy the 

loose fit and potential for problems and will 

also minimize needle vibration. That said, I 

found that the Macs pipe and the .36NT 

were a sweet combination!

M A K I N G S L I D I N G 

C A N O P I E S 

BY VANCE M0SHER>PH0T0S BY VANCE MOSHER & DERON NEBLETT 

ONE OF THE FIRST THINGS PEOPLE LOOK AT 

on a scale model is its cockpit. Anything that 

makes the cockpit look more realistic con 

tributes greatly to the model's realism. And, of 

course, a sliding canopy does that; so let's make 

one. Real airplane canopies have metal 

frames to make them strong and rigid, but this 

usually isn't necessary with models. Molded 

canopies are stiff enough, and canopy frames are 

required only when you are making a super- 

scale or giant-scale plane. Since we aren't 

installing frames, we'll just talk about making 

the sliding parts. 


Photo 1 

The parts needed for a canopy slider are 

a base strip (balsa), one I-beam section 

and two C-beam sections. These plastic 

sections are available from Plastruct. 

Photo 2 

Use CA to glue the first 

C-beam to the balsa base strip.

Photo 3 

With the slider removed, you can 

permanently glue the second 

C-beam into place; then trim the 

base flush with the plastic parts. 

Photo 4 

Here, the I-beam has been set 

Into place. Carefully tack-glue 

the second C-beam Into place. 

Photo 5 

This shows the slider and channel assembly glued into place in the model. 

Photo 6 

With the sliders in the forward position, the canopy has been glued into place. | 

For this technique, "Goop" glue works well. This common 

variety store adhesive is sold under a bunch of names, such as 

"Household Goop," "Plumber's Goop" and "Shoe-Goo." It's all 

the same stuff, and any brand will work. Zap's "Zap-A-Dap-A- 

Goo" is somewhat thinner, and I prefer to use that, as it is 

easier to apply in precise amounts. 

Note that the canopy slides shown angle upward a bit at 

the rear so the canopy lifts up and away from the fuselage 

slightly when it is slid back. The fuselage also narrows toward 

the top, so the slides (which are parallel to each other) stick 

out of the fuselage a bit at the rear. This is intentional. The 

canopy can be removed by pulling the sliders all the way out 

of the rear of the channels. I use a removable stop at the rear 

of the channels to prevent the canopy from falling off during 

flight. 

The canopy channels on some aircraft don't stick out of the 

fuselage sides and, thus, can't slide out. If you want the 

canopy to be removable, you'll have to screw it to the sliders 

instead of gluing them on. Full bubble canopies usually use 

slide channels that point upward. 

FABRICATING SLIDES 

I make my slides and channels out of Plastruct, a material 

that's available at most model-railroad hobby shops. Molded 

of plastic, these structural shapes are available in a variety of 

shapes and sizes. Plastruct comes in black ABS and white 

styrene. The black ABS pieces tend to be stronger and easier to 

disguise. The shapes used here are 3/l6-inch I-beams and 

C-beams. It's advisable to use CA when you glue Plastruct. 

STEPS FOR INSTALLING SLIDES 

Select a base to glue the plastic parts to; this will make assembly 

easier. The piece shown is 1/l6-inch-thick by 1/4-inch-wide 

balsa cut to the desired length of the canopy slide. All of these 

dimensions will vary according to the size of your aircraft. If 

you don't want to use balsa, Evergreen Scale Models makes 

strip styrene in a wide range of sizes, and it's perfect for making 

the base strips (see photo 1). Using glue sparingly, glue the 

first C-beam section along one edge of the base strip with the 

open side toward the center of the base (see photo 2). Nest the 

I-beam slide in the open side of the C-beam, and place the second 

C-beam on the base with its open side toward the slide. 

This captures the slide between the two C-beams. Do not 

squeeze the slide tightly between the two beams. Slide the 

APRIL 2005 99

SCALE TECHNIQUES 

I-beam back and forth to check its fit. Use a toothpick or 

another fine-tip applicator to tack-glue the second C-beam to 

the base. Don't use a lot of glue (see photo 3). Test the movement 

of the I-beam slide, and remove it for now. Now firmly 

glue the C-beam to the base. Trim away any part of the base 

i that protrudes past the outer channel sections (see photo 4). 

Measure the width of the base and both sides of the cockpit; 

cut a long slot in the fuselage side sheeting to fit the channel 

assembly. Cut the canopy I-beam sliders to the correct 

length, and install them in the channels. This isn't always necessary, 

but it might be if the slides in your airplane can't be 

removed later (see photo 5). Carefully fit the channels into the 

fuselage slots so that their outer edges are flush with the fuselage 

sheeting. Hold them in place with pieces of tape or several 

angled pins pushed into the fuselage. 

Carefully glue the channels to the sheeting. Use a fine-tip 

applicator, and let the glue wick into the joint between the 

wood and the channels. Don't get any glue on the sliders 

(see Figure 1). 

To protect their surfaces, cover the outer faces of the sliders 

where the canopy will be glued to them with masking tape. 

You can now paint your model. Don't get any paint down in 

the channel, though. Glue the canopy onto the sliders. Cut a 

slit that's a bit longer than the sliders in two pieces of wax 

paper and fit them between the sliders and the channels. This 

will prevent the canopy glue from getting into the channels. 

Move both sliders to their forward positions, and test-fit your 

canopy to make sure that it will fit properly against the windshield 

and the aft fuselage. Remove the masking tape from the 

slider faces and apply some Goop. Fit the canopy over the sliders, 

and hold it in place with tape until the glue has dried. Set 

the model aside for a couple of hours (see photo 6). Remove 

the tape and the wax paper, and then—when no one is watching—slide 

your canopy back and forth as much as you like (see 

photo 7). 

There; see how happy your pilot looks now that he can get 

out of the airplane? Adding a sliding canopy to your model 

>>>>BUBBLE-CANOPY RAILS 

For a full bubble canopy, you will need one more part. Cut a piece 

of L-beam to the same length as the slider, and glue It to the top of 

the slider with its vertical portion facing outward. Some aircraft, 

such as the T-28 Trojan, have a canopy channel that also runs 

down the top centerline of the rear fuselage just behind the 

canopy. This requires a third channel and slider set. This slider 

requires that a hard, wooden wedge be glued to its top to match 

Photo 

Because of the slight upward angle of the sliders, as the canop 

slid back, it moves slightly up and away from the top of the fusela 

Photo 

This Is one happy p 

increases its scale appearance and is a great way to add some 

excitement to your model. It isn't all that difficult; give it a try! 

See the Source Guide on page 151 for manufacturers'contact information.

Air SCOOP 











TX 75098; (214) 429-0440; fax (214) 442-1899. 











of the famous 













440-5095. 













Acworth, GA 30101; (800) 250-3683, (770) 974-0843; fax (770) 974-6243; 




helicopter, 


modelers Wang 





seconds. They 


record of 



the same type.

Nothing flies better than a 

well-trimmed aircraft, as 

this Hangar 9 Aresti 40 

demonstrates. 

The Art of Aircraft Trimming 

8 STEPS TO MAXIMIZE YOUR MODEL'S PERFORMANCE BY RICK BELL 

No matter 

how straight 

you build 

your model, 

IT WILL 

LIKELY 

NEED 

MINOR 

TRIM 

TWEAKS 

TO FLY CORRECTLY, an airplane must be in 

proper trim, flight-trimming involves mak 

ing many flights and observing your plane's 

reactions in various situations. By making 

corresponding adjustments, you're attempt 

ing to make the plane fly neutrally. In other 

words, if you apply right rudder while flying 

straight and level, the plane will yaw to the 

right and not show any tendency to dive or 

climb. Though this is the ultimate goal, it's 

often very difficult to achieve because of 

many factors—primarily, the model's design. 

It is, however, possible to minimize design 

faults considerably by making subtle trim 

changes, radio mixing corrections and center 

of gravity (CG) adjustments. 

All trim flights should be made in calm 

conditions, and all maneuvers must be 

entered dead-on straight and level. If the 

entry isn't level, the maneuver will be 

skewed, and you'll misinterpret what the 

plane is doing. Having an observer carefully 

watch the plane is extremely helpful, as he 

can provide real-time feedback. Do each 

maneuver several times to make sure that a 

small gust of wind isn't affecting it. 

Throughout the process, you'll make several 

flights, and it's important to change only one 

thing at a time and to test the plane after 

each change. Following are eight ways to rec 

ognize—and solve—any problem that you 

might encounter.

CONTROL CENTERING 

>>During the Initial flights, you 

should check the controls for centering. 

Perform several loops and 

[rolls. Does the plane return to 

straight-and-level flight or does it 

wander? If It wanders and never 

returns to a locked-on neutral, there 

could be a binding, or a stiffly moving 

pushrod or a servo that never 

returns to the same true center. 

Maybe the control surfaces aren't 

centered when at neutral. 

Investigate, and correct as 

necessary. 

CONTROL NEUTRAL 

>>No matter how straight you 

build your model, more than likely, 

it will need some minor trim tweaks 

to make it fly level. Obviously, the 

straighter the model is built, the fewer 

trim adjustments it will need. 

Fly the model straight and level, 

let go of the sticks, and observe 

what it does. Adjust the transmitter 

trims to correct any deviation from 

straight and level, and land the 

plane. Adjust the clevises to move 

the control surfaces to match the 

transmitter trims, and then center 

the trims. Fly the model and repeat 

the tests until it will fly hands-off 

straight and level with the trim 

levers centered. 

1 

HERE, THE ELEVATOR IS IN THE NEUTRAL POSITION. 

COMPARE THIS WITH THE PHOTO BELOW. 

IF THE ELEVATOR SERVO DOESN'T CENTER PROPERLY, A 

LITTLE UP- OR DOWN-ELEVATOR AT NEUTRAL WILL BE THE RESULT. 

2 Screw the clevis in or out to adjust the trim for 

• 

level flight. Be sure to center the transmitter trim 

after you've adjusted the clevis. 

YOU CAN CHANGE HOW MUCH THE CONTROL SURFACES MOVE BY ADJUST

HOWTO>THE ART OF AIRCRAFT TRIMMING 

CENTER OF GRAVITY 

>> The most critical component of flight trimming is finding the 

correct CG. Checking the CG can be tricky, and there are several 

ways to do it. The most popular way is to roll the model into a bank 

of 45 to 60 degrees and then release the sticks. The plane should 

continue to fly in this attitude for a reasonable distance. If its tail 

LATERAL BALANCE 

>> This is tough to test for, as there are many variables: warped or 

twisted elevators can make a model's wing drop and make it look as 

though one wingtip is heavy. One test is to roll the plane inverted and 

then release the aileron stick. Does either wingtip drop? If ft does, 

add weight to the higher one. Another test is to perform tight loops 

flying away from yourself. If the plane exits the loop with the right 

wing low, that wingtip is heavy; add weight to the left wingtip. 

drops, the CG is too far aft; move It forward by moving t 

(if possible), or add nose weight. If its nose drops, do th 

Use only the ailerons to establish the bank; don't touch 

tor, and do the bank In both directions to ensure that yo 

ing the CG accurately.

"All TRIM 

FLIGHTS should be 

made in calm 

conditions, and all 

maneuvers must be 

entered DEAD-ON 

STRAIGHT AND 

LEVEL" 

LEFT & RIGHT THRUST 

>> This test is best done by flying the plane away from yourself 

and pulling ft into a vertical climb. Does its nose veer to the 

left or to the right? If the nose pulls to the left, increase right 

thrust; if it pulls to the right, reduce right thrust. 

ROLL DIFFERENTIAL 

>> Whenever you roll an airplane, the aileron that moves 

wards generates more drag than the aileron that moves up 

This induced drag caused by the down aileron will pull the 

model's nose off a straight line. In other words, if you roll t 

left, the aileron differential will cause the plane's nose to y 

slightly to the right. A simple test is to fly the model towar 

and then pull up in a vertical climb. Neutralize the controls 

perform a half-roll. Did the model's nose change its headin 

the direction opposite that of the roll or in the same direct 

the roll? If the change was in the direction opposite the ro 

increase aileron differential. If the heading change is in th 

tion of the roll, decrease aileron differential.

"FLIGHT TRIMMING 

involves making many 

flights in various 

situations." 

>HOWTO>THE ART OF AIRCRAFT TRIMMING 

PARTING THOUGHTS 

These trim tests are the most common ways to get the most out of your model. Aircraft trimming is a 

| constant process. Every time you change something, there Is a chance that It will affect something 

else. Just stick with It and understand what's happening and why. The process Isn't difficult, but It is 

time-consuming. Don't be surprised If you fly more than 30 flights to get through this list. Follow these 

tips and your plane will be easier to fly, and you'll be a better pilot as you really come to 

understand why your plane flies the way It does. Happy landings!

Air SCOOP 











TX 75098; (214) 429-0440; fax (214) 442-1899. 











of the famous 













440-5095. 













Acworth, GA 30101; (800) 250-3683, (770) 974-0843; fax (770) 974-6243; 




helicopter, 


modelers Wang 





seconds. They 


record of 



the same type.

On May 21 and 22, 2005, Air Age Media and Vision 

Entertainment will once again host RCX—the world's ultimate 

Radio Control Expo—at the Anaheim Convention Center in 

California. The first two RCX events were spectacular, but 

this year's event promises to be bigger, better and even more 

exciting, so get your tickets early! 

Top pilots will perform 

unbelievable 3D aero- 

batics in two huge Fly 

Zones where you'll 

see the latest back- 

yard flyers and micro helicopters up close and in 

person. The off-road track will have longer 

straightaways for high-speed action and larger 

jumps for sick, big-air stunts. The boat pond has 

been enlarged to allow nitro-burning deep-vees, 

tunnelhulls and catamarans to churn out wet-and- 

wild wave action. 

RCX will be a rubbernecking experience unlike 

any other because full-throttle excitement will be 

everywhere you look: RC airplanes and heli 

copters will perform jaw-dropping aerobatic 

demos; there will be nitro-burning 1/8-scale buggies 

and monster trucks pulling stunts on the freestyle 

track; and look for nonstop racing mayhem on 

Hobby People's "Try Me Track," where you can 

take the controls for yourself. 

You can check out all of the hottest RC products 

at the RCX Shopping Mall and meet major RC 

manufacturers, retailers and aftermarket compa 

nies. Industry giants such as Ace Hobby, Du-Bro, 

Great Planes, GWS, Hitec/Multiplex, Hobby 

People, Horizon Hobby, Kyosho, MS Composit, 

Tamiya and many more will display their latest gear. 

In addition, you won't want to miss the 

International Die Cast X Collectors Expo that will be 

held with RCX. Join thousands of collectors, traders 

and manufacturers at this inaugural event; it 

promises to be a die-cast lover's dream come true. 

We'll be giving away prizes worth big bucks, 

so get ready to rock at RCX 2005! Tickets are on 

sale now at rcx.com; log on for all of the latest 

show info. 

—the Model Airplane News crew

Top pilots like Jason 

Shulman know that all-out 

aerial stunts might damage 

their airframes, but what's a 

broken wing when you're 

performing at the hottest 

show-in town? A little glue, 

and this 3D aerobat was 

back in business!

An electric powered jet that really performs! 

A QUICK LOOK AT MODEL AIRPLANE NEWS—or any 

other RC publication—over the last several years provides 

a clear indication of the two most explosive areas 

of growth in the hobby: almost-ready-to-fly (ARF) 

planes and electric power systems. ARFs are proliferating 

faster than rabbits on Viagra, and they're getting 

better all the time. The electric-power segment is also 

growing by leaps and bounds, and it has allowed many 

new fliers to become involved with the hobby. 

Eventually, some expand their horizons and look to 

higher-performance models, not the least of which are 

electric ducted-fan models (EDFs.) 

MAY 2005 125

Main landing gear Is simple and is held In place 

with straps. 

Huge breakthroughs in propulsion systems, 

including Li-poly batteries and brushless 

motors, have enabled us to achieve power 

and thrust that we simply couldn't get with 

glow engines. Looking back over my 30-plus 

years of building and flying ducted-fan jets, I 

can recall the early anguishes of high-nitro 

fuel, tuned pipes, blown glow plugs and other 

impediments to successful ducted-fan operation. 

EDFs have introduced a level of reliability 

never before seen in jet modeling. 

Those with deep pockets may argue that 

turbines possess the same qualities, and I'd 

agree—but those qualities come at significantly 

higher costs. EDFs are also easier to 

operate at existing flying fields and require 

far less support equipment, and that (among 

other things) drove my development of the 

MiniWave. 

The MiniWave was inspired by Dave 

Piatt's turbine-powered Heatwave sport jet— 

With the MiniWave's split-tail arrangement, the WeMoTec fan unit is simply bolted Into place out in 

open. Note the ruddervator servo Just below the fan on the side of the fuselage. 

a no-nonsense, all-wood, easy-to-build model. 

The same qualities carry over to the smaller 

MiniWave. In less than a week's worth of spare 

time, it can be built easily with conventional, 

off-the-shelf materials that include balsa and 

lite-ply. But before you jump into this project, 

please recognize that the propulsion system 

required for jet-like performance does not 

come cheap. The fan unit, motor, electronic 

speed control (ESC) and the brushless motor 

cost about the same as a .91 glow ducted-fan 

package. 1 also caution you that this is a highperformance 

sport jet that's capable of speeds 

around l00mph. Exposure to the whine and 

whistle of the MiniWave during a high-speed 

pass is likely to hook you; let's get started. 

WING CONSTRUCTION 

The wing is built upside-down in sepa 

panels over the plans. After you've cut 

all the parts, slide the rear portions of 

ribs into the slots cut in the main spar, 

then slip the front section of the ribs 

position. Place the entire assembly over 

plans, and glue all of the ribs and spar in 

sections together. Glue the trailing-e 

stock and the tip rib into place. Install 

front center rib assembly and the hardw 

landing-gear block. Repeat this sequence 

build the opposite panel. 

Place both panels over the plans, 

temporarily shim them 1/16 inch above 

building surface to provide clearance for 


MODEL MiniWave 

TYPE: electric ducted fan 

WINGSPAN: 481/4 In. 

LENGTH: 47 In. 


WEIGHT: 78 to 82 oz. 


MOTOR REQ'D: Hacker B50-9XL, 

Chill Pepper CP 50, or similar 

FAN UNIT: 90mm WeMoTec Midi-Fan 

BATTERY REQ'D: 55 (18.5V) Li-poly or 

16 NiMH cells 

RADIO REQ'D: 4-channel (rudder, 

aileron, throttle, elevator); V-tail mixing

This vacuum-formed canopy can be used to replace the balsa-sheet structure 

shown on the plans. 

The aileron servos are In the wing panels. The short linkage run 

minimizes control-surface play. 

With the main hatch removed, you are able to change the flight pack, and you have 

access to the nose-gear assembly and other onboard equipment. 

There's plenty of room in the fuselage for the onboard radio and power-management gear. 

THOUGH THE ORIGINAL MINIWAVE WAS FLOWN USING THE HACKER MOTOR/ESC combination fed 

by a Thunder Power 5S4P 8000mAh pack, i spent some time looking around for an 

acceptable system that could offer similar performance yet not put such a dent in the old 

wallet. My feeling is that although performance costs, and the MiniWave is a high-performance 

jet—not a park flyer—more of you might be willing to try this exciting form of modeling 

if less expensive components were used. 

The package shown here might be the answer. The system uses the same WeMoTec 

Midi fan, but it is driven by a preproduction Chili Pepper CP-50 motor controlled by the same 

Jeti-Hacker 70 ECS. The battery, however, is the new, fourth-generation 5S1P (3250mAh) 

pack. It fits the MiniWave perfectly, and its compact size allows it to be positioned well forward 

for balance purposes. The overall weight reduction is significant; the downside is that 

its capacity is less than half that of the Thunder Power. Nothing for nothing, right? 

In static testing, the output appears very similar to the original's, but the proof, as 

they say, is in the flying; we'll let you know how we make out. There are certainly other 

options that can be explored; if you decide to build the MiniWave, let us know about 

your choices and successes.

1/16-inch sheeting that you'll add later. Slide 

the lite-ply wing joiner into place, and 

install the 1/4x1/4-inch aft spars. Check the 

alignment of the joined panels, and apply 

glue to all the joints. Install the rear center 

rib assemblies; then add the 1/16-inch balsa 

sub-leading edge and the front wing joiners. 

Attach the 1/16-inch balsa leading-edge sheet 

ing and center-section sheeting. Sand the 

leading-edge sheeting flush with the sub- 

leading edge, and allow the glue to dry com 

pletely. Remove the wing from the building 

surface, turn it over and add the leading- 

edge and center-section sheeting. Sand the 

leading-edge sheeting flush with the sub- 

leading edge, glue the 3/16x1 -inch balsa lead 

ing edge into place, and then carve and sand 

it to shape. 

Glue the aileron-servo rails into place, and 

install a rolled-paper conduit to guide the 

servo leads. Drill a hole through the leading 

edge to expose the dowel receptacle in the 

center rib, and glue a length of 1/4-inch dowel 

into place. Cut the ailerons out of the trail 

ing edge, and temporarily install the hinges. 

Sand the wing smooth to finish it. 

FUSELAGE 

The fuselage is a basic box structure with tri 

angular stock added to the edges to make it 

stronger and provide more gluing surface. 

Each side can be cut out of a single 

3/32x4x48-inch sheet of balsa, but the splice 

joint shown on the plans permits the use of 

36-inch-long material. Since the fuselage is a 

constant width from F-6 aft, you can glue 

formers F-6, -7, -8 and -10 to the right fuse 

lage side. Make certain that the formers are 

perpendicular to the building surface. 

Assemble the aft fuselage section, and glue 

the assembly into position. Add formers 

F-10 and F-ll; they provide the forward and 

rear attachment points for the ruddervator. 

Glue the left fuselage side into place, and 

then glue F-9A to former F-9 to provide a 

gluing surface for the vacuum-formed inlet 

ramp. Pin the fuselage into place over the 

top view of the plans, and install the top 

cross-grain sheeting. Install the fan-unit 

mounts and the tail crosspiece (FE). Remove 

the fuselage from the building surface, turn 

it over and sheet the bottom. Note that the 

bottom sheeting aft of F-9 does not com 

pletely enclose the aft fuselage. 

These notches are where the V-tail ruddervators will be installed. 

Nothing complicated here—to minimize linkage lengths, the ruddervator servos are in the 

Build the main hatch on top of the fuse 

lage, and then add 1/16-inch balsa sheeting to 

create the canopy. Remove the hatch from 

the fuselage, install the 1/8-inch hold-down 

dowel, and drill a corresponding hole in the 

nose block to accept the dowel. Two plastic 

landing-gear straps and screws secure the aft 

edge of the hatch. 

RUDDERVATORS 

Build the ruddervators flat over the plans, and 

then sheet them on both sides with 

1/16-inch balsa. Each root end must be beveled 

to a 30-degree angle. Make the elevator sec 

short lengths of balsa into plac 

the detailed drawing section of t 

LANDING GEAR 

Bend the main gear wires to sh 

porarily install them in the 

nylon gear straps and screws. 

strut should be installed so th 

matches that shown on the p 

vides a slightly positive deck an 

EQUIPMENT 

I used a WeMoTec 90mm fa 

Hacker B50-9XL brushless mo

Ted Ruffo holds up the second prototype MiniWave for the camera. Even standing still, It looks fast! 

wheel steering servo, so installation of 

these components is a breeze—likewise for 

the receiver and ESC that are between for 

mers F-7 and F-8. The aileron servos are in 

the wing panels and are connected to the 

receiver with a Y-harness. The two rudder- 

vator servos are installed in the fuselage 

sides below the ruddervators. Short 

threaded rods and ball-link fittings con- 

nect the ruddervator servos to the elevator 

surfaces. Install the control horns and 

linkages to all of the control surfaces. 

Cut away the sheeting forward of F-9 to 

accept the vacuum-formed inlet ramp. 

Four screws threaded into the ply FM parts 

hold the fan unit in place. Route the 

motor wires through the side of the fuse 

lage and into the equipment bay and 

attach them to the ESC. That basically 

completes your MiniWave. 

COVERING & FINISH 

No doubt, as you build the MiniWave, you 

will imagine it airborne and sporting a color 

scheme that will dazzle your flying buddies. 

MonoKote and UltraCote coverings on the 

three prototypes produced similar results 

(Ted Ruffo built the Marines version with 

the sprayed-on green camo scheme). 

Reinstall all the equipment, check the CG, 

verify correct radio and motor operation and 

get set for the flying field. 

FLYING 

the plans, control response is comfortably 

quick and smooth. The model is easily 

capable of most scale-type aerobatic 

maneuvers—but no 3D antics, please! It is 

fast enough to be impressive but is able to 

slow down nicely for landings when 

there's a gentle headwind. Yaw control 

with the ruddervators is effective even in a 

slight crosswind—not as good as a conven 

tional vertical fin but close enough. In 

fact, I may try deactivating the rudder 

function (except for nosewheel steering) 

and try to fly it with aileron and elevator 

control only. 

In short, the MiniWave does everything 

Designed by Rich Uravitch, this 

to-build, electric, ducted fan is 

reliable and reaches flight spee 

the l00mph range. It uses trad 

balsa, lite-ply and aircraft plywo 

struction and is finished with ir 

film covering. Plans show alt of 

parts required to build the mod 

vacuum-formed plastic and las 

wooden parts are available. 

that I had hoped it would, and I 

pleased with the result. Besid 

an easy-to-build, nice-flying 

provides valuable experience 

scale EDF projects. 

I have a plastic set that comp 

inlet ramp and a clear plastic c 

replace the wooden parts require 

canopy shown on the plans. Ple 

richuravitch.com for details. 

Hangar (hobbyhangar.com) also p 

laser-cut, wooden-parts packa 

includes all of the parts shown on 

template sheet; check its website 

tional information. 4 

See the Source Guide on page 151 for man 

contact information.

Air SCOOP 











TX 75098; (214) 429-0440; fax (214) 442-1899. 











of the famous 













440-5095. 













Acworth, GA 30101; (800) 250-3683, (770) 974-0843; fax (770) 974-6243; 




helicopter, 


modelers Wang 





seconds. They 


record of 



the same type.

PRODUCT 

SLOFLY 

Prop Saver 

Flexible-propeller Insurance 

How many times has it happened to you? You bring your model in for a 

landing and then, just as the plane comes to a stop, it ever so slowly 

tips up onto its nose—just enough to break your propeller! Argh! I hate 

when that happens. In a worst-case scenario, that landing could even 

bend the motor shaft What's the solution? The Slofly Prop Saver! 

This great little add-on costs $5 and will pay for itself the first 

time your airplane noses over. Machined out of aluminum, the Prop 

Saver fits 3mm motor shafts and comes with two attachment 

screws that double as the anchor points for the rubber band that 

holds the prop hub against the Prop Saver. The unit fits GWS 6x3 

through 12x8 props. To install the Prop Saver, slide it onto the 

motor shaft with the step facing out, and tighten the two screws to 

lock it into position. Place the prop against the step, and slip the 

rubber band into place as shown. The rubber band holds the prop in 

place and automatically centers it on the shaft; the rubber band/Prop 

Saver combination allows the prop to "give" if it bumps against the 

ground! The entire unit weighs only 1 gram, including the screws. 

Nothing could be simpler! —Gerry Yarrish 

slowfly; slowfly.com. 

GLOW STARTER 

Glow True 

Safe, convenient starts 

Now you can eliminate the clutter in your field box by having just one 

glow-plug igniter. The typical sub-C glow igniter will generally provide 

only about 15 minutes of continuous operation, but the Glow True 

from Fun Time Technologies will provide more than 80 minutes of 

continuous glow ignition. It's powered by four AA batteries. The unit's 

durable, fuel-resistant, plastic housing protects the key components, 

and it's connected to an all-steel, quick-release clip by a heavy- 

gauge 24-inch wire. 

The Glow True provides a variety of safety and convenience features 

that aren't typically found on glow-plug igniters. Before attaching the 

Glow True to the glow plug, switch it on to check the status of its bat 

teries. If the battery-check light comes on, then you're good to go. Then 

turn off the unit and connect the quick-release igniter clip to the glow 

plug. At this point, a continuity-check light will come on to indicate that 

the glow plug is good and is ready for ignition. Then turn on the Glow 

True, and start the engine. 

When a glow igniter is removed after an ignition, the engine will 

sometimes quit abruptly; this often happens when an engine isn't 

completely broken in. With the Glow True, everything remains con 

nected, and its power is easily turned on and off. So if the engine 

starts to sputter, the Glow True switch can be flipped back on to 

keep the engine running. Instead of having to restart the engine 

repeatedly (as you must do with other igniters), this allows you to 

fine-tune the engine until it remains running even after the Glow 

True is switched off. At that time, you just disconnect the igniter 

from the glow plug. 

The Glow True is a great addition to anyone's field box and is 

perfect for the modeler who has everything. Although a bit pricey, 

with its well-made construction, it's most likely the last glow 

igniter you'll buy. It costs $69.99. —John Reid 

Fun Time Technologies (260) 241-2543; funtimetechnologies.com.

PRODUCT 

Micro Wireless 

Micro Cam 2 wireless video system 

Eyes from above 

The Micro Cam 2 is a supersmall color-video system that can take aerial 

videos from your RC plane or helicopter. The camera features a high- 

resolution, 380-line color-image sensor with a 2.4GHz transmitter and 

an audio microphone in a package that weighs a scant 1/2 ounce and is 

only 1 square inch in size. The receiver has a four-position switch that 

allows you to use four cameras simultaneously. Standard RCA 

video/audio cables are included, so you can plug the receiver into most 

TVs, VCRs and camcorders. The antenna can receive signals from the 

camera from up to 1,000 feet from your line of sight. Besides the 

camera and the 4-channel receiver, the package includes an adjustable 

metal camera mount, AC adapters for the camera and receiver, a 9V 

CASTLE CREATIONS 

PHX-LINK 

PC programming 

Castle Creations' Phoenix line of brushless speed controls offers an 

outstanding array of custom settings, but programming them can 

take a bit of time and patience. Now you don't have to hassle with 

battery cable and instructions. For great reception, high-gain antennas 

are also available. 

To put the camera to the test, I installed it on my electric GWS Slow 

Stick with double-sided tape. This allowed me to move the camera around 

for best viewing. I also mounted the 9V battery with double-sided tape, 

and that took care of the airborne system. The camera's receiver can be 

powered by the AC power adapter or directly from a 12V power source. 

I used a 12V car battery during the flight tests. I also plugged the receiver 

into a camcorder so that I could record and watch the flights. (You need to 

make sure that the camcorder has an analog input; many camcorders 

don't) If you use a glow-powered model or helicopter, make sure that the 

camera is out of the engine's exhaust stream because the oil residue will 

quickly foul the lens. 

After a ground check, it was time to take to the skies. I tried three 

camera positions: straight down, straight through the prop and angled 

downward at 45 degrees. The camera worked very well, and the recep 

tion was great! With the camera pointing straight down, the scenery 

was rather two-dimensional—sort of like looking through a bombsight. 

When the camera was pointing through the prop, it was difficult to see 

things on the ground. To do so, I needed to point the nose of the model 

downward. Plus, as the prop was spinning, it gave the video a strobe 

effect. The best camera position was with it pointed 45 degrees down. 

It was very cool to look at the surroundings from 400 or 500 feet. 

Performing aerobatics with a bird's-eye view was a real hoot; it almost 

made me dizzy! 

This $129.95 system adds excitement to your flying. Pick one up for 

a unique view of the world around you. — Rick Bell 

Micro Wireless (817) 715-1989; microwireless.net. 

moving your transmitter sticks and waiting for beeps and flashes; 

just plug your Phoenix brushless ESC into the Windows-compatible 

PHX-LINK, and insert its 7-foot cord into a USB port on your PC! 

Download the user-friendly program from the Castle Creations web 

site, and you'll easily be able to check, set up, or change your 

Phoenix speed control's settings. 

Click on the appropriate function, and a drop-down menu 

allows you to select the desired settings with point-and-click 

ease. Customize basic ESC settings such as cutoff voltage, cut- 

off type, brake type, throttle type, soft start and rotation direc 

tion, or reset all settings to the defaults. You can also customize 

advanced ESC settings such as motor advance, current settings 

and PWM frequency. 

The new PHX-LINK is truly a time-saving tool that's well worth its 

price tag of $25. You'll need a PC with Windows 98, ME, 2000, or XP, 

a USB port and access to the Internet so you can download the pro 

gram and related updates. —John Reid 

Castle Creations (785) 883-4519; castlecreations.com. 

AT MODEL AIRPLANE NEWS, we not only tell you what's new. but we also try it out first so we can bring you mini-reviews of the stuff we like 

best. Manufacturers frequently send us their latest support equipment, and if we think a product is good—something special that will make your modeling experiences 

a little easier or just plain more fun—we II let you know here. From retracts and hinges to glow starters and videotapes, look for it in Product Watch.

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HYDE CUSTOM SOFT MOUNTS—Independent engineering 

testing conclusion: "Single Isolator Hyde Mounts" considerably 

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on servos, pots, gears, etc. For all DA, 3W, ZDZ, BME and others. 

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BOB'S AIRCRAFT DOCUMENTATION, NEW 2005/6. World's 

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R/C FLIGHT INSTRUCTION in North Central Georgia Mountains 

"Blairsville"; (706) 745-8667. [9/05] 

JETS, JETS, JETS. Ducted-fan jet kits. Fly an F-15 Regal Eagle 

with a .61 engine; rcjets.com. [2/05] 

COMPOSITE KITS TO REPLACE BROKEN ARFs—$15 TO $65. 

For catalog, send two stamps to Willairco, P.O. Box 57, 

East Palatka, FL 32131; (386) 546-3222. [2/05] 

RARE EARTH MAGNETS. Perfect for hatches, etc. SUPER 

STRONG 1/4x1/8-in. disc—$1 ea.: 3/8x1/8-in. disc—$1.25 

ea.; plus $1 shipping & handling in U.S. Send SASE for more 

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TURN YOUR AIRPLANE AND ROCKET DESIGNS INTO CASH! We 

laser-cut your designs for small or large production requirements. 

Please visit laserimageworks.com. [5/05] 

HOBBYIST 

FREESTYLE 45 looks great, lands gently and performs superior 

aerobatics. Photo in December issue's "Pilot Projects." Easier 

self-jigging construction, rolled AutoCAD drawings, detailed 

building guide and materials list plus bonus drawings; only 

$22.95 plus $6.95 S&H. Email LLCRCAERO@yahoo.com, 

or call (860) 739-6846 for full description and photos. [2/05] 

FOR SALE: SUPER CYCLONE (PRE-WW II) & ROCKET MOTOR 

ignition engines, Arden 19 glow engine, excellent fins & compression; 

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best reasonable offer. Bob Cowherd Sr. (315) 655-3864 'til 9 pm 

Eastern time. [205] 

FOR SALE: Top Flite 1 -in. Scale P 

Master JN-40 "Jenny" 44-in. Con 

nal boxes. (618) 566-2757. 

BACK ISSUES, MODEL MAGAZINE 

CT 06033-3237; davidbrown46@co 

P47D THUNDERBOLT 1/6-SCALE M 

Models Inc. kit. Completely finis 

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fler, dummy radial, Robart air retra 

wheel, all servos installed/Airtronic 

and receiver batteries. Full cockpit 

display prop. Never flown, but rea 

able. Best offer over $4,500, FO 

Chase, 1520 Goldfield Ave., Carso 

fechase@aol.com. 

R/C VIDEO: featuring aerial view 

1/3-scale J-3 Cub, 1/5 Beech Staggerw 

VHS tape—$7.50; DVD-R—$10. Sen 

1200 E. Davis St., Ste. 115, Box 192, M 

USED ENGINES WANTED: pre-197 

100 Smyrna, West Springfie 

(413) 732-3859. 

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WANTED: A COMPLETE SET OF 

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MAY 2005 1 53

FINAL APPROACH 

BY MOLLY O'BYRNE > PHOTOS BY GUY C. CRILLY 

The full-size "Miss Veedol" and 

Bob Heikell's 1/4-scale model strike 

a bright orange pose for the camera! 

Spirit of Wenatchee 

FULL-SIZE AND 1/4-SCALE REPLICAS CELEBRATE AVIATION HISTORY 

The collaborators in the Spirit of Wenatchee 

project (left to right): Bob Heikell, David 

Knannlein, Frank Wright and Gene LaFond 

with their 1/4-scale Miss Veedol. 

Bob Heikell shows off his handiwork as the 

model takes shape on his workbench. 

WHEN STUNT FLIER EXTRAORDINAIRE Clyde 

"Upside Down" Pangborn belly-landed his 

Bellanca Model J "Miss Veedol" at the 

Wenatchee, WA, airfield on October 5, 1931, 

he probably had no idea that his recordshattering 

transpacific flight would be commemorated 

70-plus years later by teams of 

hard-working builders and modelers. 

Always eager for a challenge, Pangborn 

and his navigator, Hugh Herndon, stumbled 

in their attempt to beat Wiley Post in 

an around-the-world competition. But 

when a Japanese newspaper subsequently 

offered $25,000 to whomever made the first 

nonstop flight from Japan to the U.S., 

Pangborn jumped at the chance. A few days 

before takeoff, however, he had second 

thoughts; he feared that his fuel supply 

would be insufficient, so he rigged a device 

that would allow him to jettison his landing 

gear once airborne, thereby saving 

weight and increasing his plane's range by 

600 miles. It worked—sort of; when the 

gear struts failed to release, the one-time 

barnstormer crawled out onto the wing to 

loosen them by hand! 

Calling themselves "The Spirit of 

Wenatchee Committee," a dedicated team 

of builders spent five years constructing a 

full-size, flying replica of Pangborn's "Miss 

Veedol" that made its first flight in 2003. 

To help promote the project nationwide, 

modelers Bob Heikell, Frank Wright and 

David Knannlein collaborated on a 1/4-scale 

version that took 1,500 man-hours to complete. 

The 150-inch-span, 41-pound model 

has logged nearly 170 flights and was most 

recently flown at the U.S. Scale Masters 

Championships in Gardner, KS. It's powered 

by a 4.75hp Zenoah G62 engine 

swinging a 22x8 prop, and Bob Heikell tells 

Model Airplane News that it "... has been 

mistaken on occasion for the 'real thing' by 

spectators!" 

The model-building team consists of 

Washingtonians Heikell, a former director of 

the Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University; 

Wright, a retired sheet-metal fabricator and 

master craftsman; and Knannlein, a relative 

newcomer to modeling who provided much 

of the documentation. The three friends 

have been assisted by Wenatchee hobbyshop 

owner Gene LaFond, an expert in the 

operation of large-scale aircraft. 

As Bob explains, "The modelers and the 

Spirit of Wenatchee group maintained close 

contact throughout. It is sincerely hoped 

that this may in some small way assist in 

bringing the worlds of full-scale aviation 

and aeromodeling closer together." 

Congratulations to all involved for creating 

such beautiful aircraft!

5 FLIGHT TESTS NORTHEAST SAILPLANE PRODUCTS ...

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