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�� THE SAS MAGAZINE SINCE 1972 WWW.FLYSAS.COM 

SCANORAMA 

no. 12 /01 

28 CHICAGO 

The foodie city 

24 SICILY 

Super natural gelato 

84 MADRID 

Here, piggy piggy 

69 INNSBRUCK 

To ski or not to ski... 

99 BASEL 

Picasso’s kind of town 

50 New broom 

at the inn 

The good food craze 

sweeping London’s pubs

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PHOTO: CHRIS HOLTER 

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Welcome to nature

SCANORAMA 

EDITOR IN CHIEF 

Rikard Lind 

(responsible under Swedish press law) 

SENIOR EDITOR EXECUTIVE EDITOR ART DIRECTOR 

Dan-Marcus Pethrus Graeme Nadasy JohnJohn Wedin 

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Hedvig Andersson Louise Dyhrfort 

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Get in touch at www.tissot.ch 

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IN TOUCH WITH YOUR TIME

SAS WELCOME 

Networking the SAS way 

IT’S A SMALL WORLD, AND WITH SAS it just keeps getting smaller. After all, we’d 

like you to see as much of it as possible. 

No other airline can match our route network in the Nordic region. Today 

we fly to close to 70 destinations in Sweden, Norway, Denmark and Finland. 

We actually restructured our route network recently, to make it much easier 

for passengers traveling from Finland to connect with Scandinavia and 

beyond. 

If Scandinavia and Finland is SAS’s home turf, Europe is our backyard. 

Today we fly to some 50 destinations in Europe. You will find an airport that 

suits your needs, regardless if you are in town for the day on business, 

enjoying a weekend city break or skiing in the Alps. 

SAS also flies direct to both Asia and the US from Scandinavia. Being a 

network airline carrier our grid stretches much further than that, though. 

Together with Star Alliance our reach extends to 1,356 airports in 193 

countries. 

Wherever you’re headed to next, we’ve got you covered. 

Welcome onboard. 

Rickard Gustafson 

President and CEO, SAS Group

Széchenyi thermal bath, Budapest 

GO TO BUDAPEST 

SAS takes you to Budapest. 

Book your trip at www.fl ysas. 

com. Use money or your Euro- 

Bonus points, or combine points 

and money. Taxes and fees apply. 

� SCANORAMA 

no. 12/01 

JONAS GRATZER 

8 SAS NEWS 

SAS in Finland; new summer destinations; 

around the world with SAS 

10 SAS FAVORITES 

Exploring eternally charming Rome 

12 SAS PERKS 

The 45 new routes launching in 2013 

14 SAS MOMENTS 

Ready for departure? The pilot’s checklist 

16 EDITOR’S LETTER 

20 THE HIT LIST 

From beach life in Mallorca to a classic Milanese 

café and the man revitalizing Chicago dining 

36 THE TRAVELER 

Talk about round-the-world travel: 

Meet the fi rst Scandinavian to go into orbit 

50 NOTHING TO GROUSE ABOUT 

In London there’s never been a better time to 

go to the pub for some extraordinary grub 

69 PERFECT INNSBRUCK 

Exploring the streets – and the slopes – of the 

unoffi cial capital of the Alps 

84 HAMMING IT UP 

A pig and an oak – the secret behind the world’s 

fi nest ham in Extremadura, Spain 

99 THE WEEKENDER 

Basel has become world famous for its art fair 

but that is just one of its many charms 

104 WISH YOU WERE HERE 

All alone in the frozen wilds of British Columbia 

145 FLIGHT GUIDE 

SAS Travel Guide; Fleet; Maps; Flysas.com 

SCANORAMA DECEMBER 2012/JANUARY 2013 

The Churchill Arms, London, 

photographed by 

Bobo Olsson 

7

SAS NEWS 

More 

sun this 

summer 

DESTINATIONS SAS will launch 

45 routes in 2013, including the 

fi rst direct fl ight to San Francisco 

from Scandinavia. Closer 

to home your choice of cities 

continues to grow, with Prague 

and Budapest among the new 

destinations. Or you could head 

to the Med and the beaches of 

Turkey (Alanya and Antalaya), 

Greece (Thessaloníki and Athens), 

and Italy (Cagliari, Sardinia, 

and Palermo, Sicily). Read 

more about new and existing 

destinations on page 12 and pages 

149-153. Book your ticket at 

Flysas.com. 

Give someone the 

trip of a lifetime 

TRAVEL Fly around the world with SAS and Star Alliance. Explore the ancient ruins 

of South America, the pristine beaches of the South Pacifi c, wander medieval European 

streets or escape to Africa. With more than 21,000 departures daily to 1,356 

airports in 193 countries, planning your trip is easy with SAS and its 26 Star Alliance 

partners. Let the adventure begin at www.fl ysas.com. 

Stockholm-New York-Los Angeles-Auckland-Shanghai-Copenhagen-Stockholm 

from €3,000. 

SAS launches a new route to 

San Fransisco this spring 

SAS brings 

Finland under 

its wing 

FINLAND SAS is increasing its presence in Finland, both 

in the air and on the web. Finnish passengers now 

have 130 destinations in Europe, Asia and America to 

choose from via Copenhagen or Stockholm. As always 

with SAS, you get 23kg baggage allowance, free tea 

and coff ee, and newspapers. 

Book your ticket at www.sas.fi 

8 DECEMBER 2012/JANUARY 2013 SCANORAMA 

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Not only that, it’s also crucial to 

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we’re introducing new standards 

for how we enable our customers 

to make confident long term 

financial decisions - decisions 

that can reach far beyond national 

borders. If you’d like to know more 

about how we can help to optimise 

and strengthen your international 

business, please visit 

newstandards.dk

SAS FAVORITES 

This month in 

Rome 

The Eternal City is forever 

reinventing traditions 

ART: The Scuderie del Quirinale (old papal 

stables) hosts the city’s fi rst major retrospective 

of Jan Vermeer, the 17th-century 

Dutch master known for his realistic depictions 

of domesticity. Through January 20. 

$15. www.scuderiequirinale.it 

SHOPPING: The late-night Christmas market 

at Piazza Navona spreads the festive cheer, 

with nativity scenes, merry-go-rounds and 

stalls selling everything from tree ornaments 

to panettone. Through January 6. 

FOOD: Celebrity chef Filippo La Mantia plates 

up traditional Sicilian fare with a twist in the 

fi n de siècle dining room of the Majestic 

Rome, one of Via Vittorio Veneto’s grandest 

hotels. www.hotelmajestic.com 

GO TO ROME SAS takes you to Rome. Book your trip at 

Flysas.com, using EuroBonus points, money or a combination 

of both. Round-trips to Rome start at 40,000 

EuroBonus points from airports in Finland and Scandinavia. 

Taxes and fees apply, from €37 

Antica Salumeria, Rome 


ERIK OLSSON

SAS PERKS 

The world 

at our feet 

NETWORK SAS has an extensive network covering 

130 destinations in Scandinavia, Europe, 

USA and Asia. With an unbeatable coverage in 

the Nordic region, a great network throughout 

Europe and many intercontinental key destinations, 

SAS is ready to take you around the world. 

During 2013, 45 new routes will launch, 

including the fi rst direct fl ight to San Francisco 

from Scandinavia. As a member of Star Alliance, 

SAS works in partnership with 26 other 

airlines to reach 1,356 airports in 193 

countries. Book you trip at Flysas.com 

New routes in 2013 

COPENHAGEN: San Francisco, Budapest, Prague, 

Biarritz, Cagliari, Palermo, Alanya, 

Thessaloniki, Pula, Newcastle 

OSLO: Budapest, Berlin, Santorini, 

Cagliari, Palermo, Pristina, Valencia, 

Malta, Lisbon, Athens, Tenerife, 

Pula, Salzburg 

BERGEN: Dubrovnik, Antalya 

STAVANGER: Antalya 

TRONDHEIM: Split 

STOCKHOLM: Pula, Palermo, Cagliari, Thessaloniki, 

Tel Aviv, Pristina, Alanya, Innsbruck 

GOTHENBURG: Nice, Pristina, Östersund 

HELSINKI: Östersund, Geneva, 

Paris, Rome, Prague 

TAMPERE: Kittilä 

TURKU: Kittilä 

BRICK BRICK 


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Folke Viking

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and challenge 

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Opportunities – challenges – work and life balance 

These are all job attributes that we offer our employees. The underwater world is demanding; 

but overcoming the biggest challenges gives the greatest results. If you want to be part of the 

future oil and gas industry, this is your opportunity – reach for it! 

www.fmctechnologies.com/careers

SAS MOMENTS 

APRIL 26, 2012, 12.40PM 

COPENHAGEN AIRPORT 

SAS Captain Michael Rosenkvist and First 

Officer Joakim Sivander prepare for takeoff 

14 DECEMBER 2012/JANUARY 2013 SCANORAMA

Ticking the boxes 

SAS CAPTAIN MICHAEL ROSENKVIST and First Offi cer Joakim Sivander perform 

safety checks onboard an MD-80 at Copenhagen Airport before 

taking off for Stockholm-Arlanda. All 67 boxes on the checklist, which 

covers everything from warning systems to fuel, have to be ticked before 

they can start the engines. More checks are carried out as the plane 

taxis to the runway, including reviews of the departure route and takeoff 

speed. Once airborne, there are separate checklists for climb and 

descent, approach and parking. “All systems, functions, lights and indicators 

are listed, eliminating the risk of forgetting anything,” Sivander says. 

OSKAR HAMMARKRANTZ 

PYSSE HOLMBERG

THE EDITOR 

Art for the heart’s sake 

Riding a bike to work has its 

advantages. You might, for 

instance, develop an interest 

in art. 

Many years ago, I used to cycle each 

morning past a particular gallery, one I 

hadn’t even noticed until the morning of 

The Great Discovery. Suddenly, it was as 

if someone in the gallery was dazzling me, 

using a mirror to refl ect sunlight into my 

eyes. A work hanging in the window – a 

startlingly intense optical illusion made by 

Beck & Jung from multiple layers of yellow 

plexiglass – drew me off my bike. The 

exhibition, I read, would open the coming 

weekend. 

The week felt painfully long. From out 

of nowhere, I was smitten – if not by art in 

any larger perspective then at least by this 

particular artwork. There was something 

about it that spoke straight to me. There 

was no question that I had to have it. 

The day of the exhibition arrived. 

Alas, so did half of the city’s art collectors. 

Even though I turned up before 

the gallery opened, the line outside was 

already long. My hopes died a quick, cruel 

death but I took a number, marinating 

in the sweat of despair. Yet when I fi nally 

got my turn, nobody had laid claim to the 

piece I wanted. The vividly colored dream 

of my morning cycle ride was still there, 

ready for me to pop a “Sold” sticker on it – 

a moment of undiluted happiness, squared 

and framed. 

RIKARD LIND 

Editor in chief 

Visit us online at www.scanorama.com 

CONTRIBUTOR: JOHANNA EKMARK, PHOTOGRAPHER 

For this issue you visited Innsbruck in 

Austria’s Tirol. How was it? 

I was surprised actually because there’s 

so much more to do than ski. It’s a university 

town that just happens to have great 

skiing . 

What’s the fi rst thing a visitor should do? 

Take the Hungerburg funicular to enjoy 

the view. You have the town stretching 

out below you and the mountains in the 

distance. London-based architect Zaha 

Hadid designed the stations, which are 

very futuristic. They light up at night and 

That was the gateway to an interest 

that has brought me much more than just 

things to hang on the walls. My tastes have 

changed and developed since then, but I’ll 

never sell that fi rst work. A sentimental 

AN INTEREST IN ART 

BROUGHT ME MORE 

THAN JUST THINGS TO 

HANG ON THE WALLS 

connection to a piece of art can be worth at 

least as much as its market value. If something 

knocks you off your feet – if it was a 

case of love at fi rst glance – then its style or 

investment value is less signifi cant. 

The Swiss town of Basel attracts art 

collectors and exhibitors like few other 

places. The reason is Art Basel, which has 

grown into a world-leading art fair that has 

colored the entire city. Even if you aren’t 

especially interested in art, we suggest you 

head straight to Basel. Chances are you 

will fall in love right away, maybe even on 

a bike ride. 

Alternatively in this issue you can read 

about cute piglets in Extremadura, try 

the world’s best Sicilian gelato, join in a 

London pub crawl or enjoy a visit of the 

capital of the Alps, Innsbruck. There is 

something here for everyone. 

Happy travels. See you in February. 

their soft contours 

make you think of 

mushrooms popping 

out of the 

ground. 

What else 

shouldn’t you 

miss? 

There’s the Grassmayr 

Foundry (www.grassmayr.at), which 

has been making church bells since 1599. 

When we were there they were working 

on one going to Tibet. This is also a 

The Publican. Hit List, page 28 

Carlos Tristancho. Hamming It Up, page 84 

great town for foodies. Restaurant Sitzwohl 

(www.restaurantsitzwohl.at) is a must 

for a hearty lunch of homemade rigatoni 

and fi sh ragout or coq au vin. And Italians 

come to Innsbruck just for the apple strudel. 

Describe your perfect day in Innsbruck. 

I’d start with breakfast at Café Munding 

(www.munding.at), where they make a 

great hot chocolate. Then I’d take a stroll 

through the center of town along the river 

Inn. After lunch, I’d head up to the mountains 

and spend the rest of the day skiing. 


FREDRIK SKOGKVIST, CAMILLA LINDQVIST

Dr Bill Lumsden Head of Distilling 

and Whisky Creation 

The wine-loving 

whisky-maker 

Wine has moved on in the last decade; the old rule book has 

been torn up and emerging regions are producing exciting 

new varieties. In the spirit of confronting outdated prejudices, 

wine lovers should reach for the single malt. 

Hailed as a pioneer in the world of whisky, the charismatic 

Dr Bill Lumsden, Head of Distilling & Whisky Creation at 

Glenmorangie, constantly strives for perfection when making 

his award-winning single malt. Unusually, however, his love of 

good wines – which began during his student days – informs his approach 

to whisky-making; there are no quick fixes and, at each stage, only the best 

will do. 

“In the last 10 to 15 years I have developed a genuine appreciation of 

fine wine. First, because of my role; I am looking to make the very best 

whisky I possibly can and, as a result, I take an interest in the finest wines 

and spirits and visit their regions. Secondly, I have had the good fortune 

to be exposed to excellent wines over the last decade because of all the 

travel I have undertaken.” Maintaining Scotland’s long-standing affection for 

French wine, Dr Lumsden has a fondness for Champagne, white Burgundy 

and the classic red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. However, his perfect 

evening will always begin with a glass of Glenmorangie Original. 

The natural elegance of Glenmorangie, with its complex and multilayered 

style, allows Dr Lumsden to draw comparisons with wine; “There 

are parallels with the great estates in the way I approach making whisky; at 

harvest, the very finest fruit is cherry-picked, production is tightly controlled, 

the best casks are selected and bottling doesn’t take place until the wine 

is ready.” 

Glenmorangie’s equivalent of grape selection lies in Dr Lumsden’s 

insistence on using only the highest quality Scottish barley. The raw 

materials will impact on the complexity of the liquid in the bottle so nothing 

is left to chance; Dr Lumsden rejects sub-standard barley in the same way 

a winemaker will discard unripe fruit. 

Furthermore, terroir can be expressed through Glenmorangie’s own hard 

water source, the Tarlogie Springs. In terms of production, Glenmorangie 

has the tallest stills in Scotland, the necks tower at an impressive 5.14 

metres; only the very lightest and purest spirit can make it over the top of 

the elongated necks resulting in a more elegant and less oily whisky. The 

descriptions of Glenmorangie’s floral and citrus characteristics would not be 

out of place in a wine writer’s notebook. 

After distillation comes maturation; no-one knows more about wood

than Glenmorangie, the pioneers of the concept of extra maturation in the 

1980s. As with winemaking, the finest oak casks are selected – made from 

air-seasoned, slow-growth, American white oak – but, unusually, they are 

only used twice. It is common for casks to be used five times or more in 

the whisky industry but Dr Lumsden’s view is that the maximum extraction 

of flavour during maturation is essential to deliver Glenmorangie’s trademark 

taste profile and mouthfeel; “About 60% of the flavour comes from the cask, 

that is why we are passionately and scientifically committed to creating the 

perfect casks in which to mature our precious spirit.” 

Furthermore, the Glenmorangie team searches the world for exceptional 

casks that will provide additional, intriguing layers of flavour to the whisky’s 

original character. For example, the voluptuous Quinta Ruban is extramatured 

in port pipes the full-bodied Lasanta in Oloroso sherry butts, 

and the sumptuous Nectar D’Òr in sauternes barriques. Dr Lumsden has 

brought together single malts and fine wine casks with remarkable results: 

Glenmorangie Tain l’Hermitage 1975 is accepted as one of the distillery’s 

finest expressions ever; Glenmorangie Margaux 1987 Cask Finish was fruity 

and spicy with notes of nectarines and toffee, hardly surprising considering 

its provenance. 

The creation of the latter exposed Dr Lumsden to the wines of Château 

Margaux; “I marvelled at just how good great wine can be.” This, in turn, 

has led to the 2011 launch of Glenmorangie Pride 1981, a remarkable 28 

year old whisky that has spent 10 years maturing in barriques from one of 

the world’s top wine estates, Château d’Yquem, only upon maturation in the 

very best American white oak casks for 18 years. 

At Glenmorangie the artisan approach is used which is usually associated 

with only the finest wines. Lumsden says: “Over the past decade, I have 

built up relationships with excellent contacts supplying the great estates of 

France and Italy. I have huge respect for the makers of exceptionally fine 

wines. I find that some, like the finest whiskies, can literally make you weep.” 

Dr Lumsden remains a man on a mission; “I face a challenge; in my 

experience, most whisky aficionados love and appreciate fine wine. However, 

the reverse is not true as wine-lovers can be suspicious of whisky.” With 

Glenmorangie, a whisky of peerless elegance and complexity, Dr Lumsden 

is well-placed to reverse this misperception. 

Glenmorangie Advertorial 

Clockwise from top left: 

Glenmorangie’s own hard water spring; 

the finest oak casks; Glenmorangie’s Quinta Ruban, 

Nectar D’Òr and Lasanta; view of the Distillery

Oceanfront lunch, Mallorca ��Fjord focus, Oslo � Sweet thoughts, Sicily 

Food entrepreneur, Chicago � Pieces of cake, Milan � Sole searching, London 

�The Hit List 

Editor RIKARD LIND 

Bay watch 

1RESTAURANTS Gran Folies Beach 

Club, close to the south western 

city of Andratx and the coast 

known as Cala Llamp, offers the beautiful, 

raw essence of Mallorca. 

When you first reach the small bay, with 

its palm-frond parasols and honey-tinted 

houses clinging to the sheer cliffs to keep 

from falling into the wild sea, it looks like 

the tropical beach club. This is, unsurprisingly, 

a popular postcard view. 

The entire village is owned by Gran 

Folies but you don’t have to stay here to 

get access to the beach club (open 10am- 

midnight) with its spa treatments, saltwater 

pool, bar and 130-seat restaurant run by 

head chef José Marín. 

It’s a perfect place to stop before or after 

a visit to Mallorca’s equally dramatic west 

coast, so park your car, get a table under 

the parasols and order the Beach Club’s 

signature dish – saffron-rich Paella Marisco. 

With its oh-so-fresh squid and cockles, it 

tastes as fresh and natural as the view of 

the wild blue Mediterranean. 

Gran Folies Beach Club 

Cala Llamp, Port d’Andratx, Spain. 

Tel: +34 971 671 094 

www.granfolies.net 

MARCUS JOONS 

� GO TO MALLORCA SAS takes you to Palma. Book 

your trip at www.flysas.com or use your EuroBonus 

points. Round-trips to Palma start at 40,000 points 

from airports in Scandinavia and Finland. Taxes and 

fees apply, from €30. 


DANIEL MÅNSSON

MEET OUR MAN IN 

SÃO PAULO 

Every day on his way to work, 

Nick Robinson passes by one of 

Brazil’s lead- 

ing department 

stores. Together 

with his team, 

Nick Robinson 

selects Latin 

American equities 

on behalf of 

Danske Invest, 

and back in 

2005 he invested 

in shares in this chain, which has 

department stores throughout Brazil. 

“Within recent years, the middle 

class in Brazil has grown by 35 

million people. This is generating 

greater purchasing power and we 

Knowledge at work 

When you invest through 

Danske Invest, you 

benefit from the local 

knowledge gained by 

investment experts across 

the world. Nick Robinson is 

one of them. 

expect even more affluent consumers 

in Brazil in the years to come. With 

its 11 different 

brands targeting 

various customer 

and age segments 

the chain of department 

stores 

enjoys a strong 

market position. 

Moreover, the 

chain has a strong 

management 

team – in our view one of the best 

teams in Brazil.” 

Successful cards 

One of the reasons behind the department 

store’s success is the launch of 

a customer card that can be used in 

all chain stores. 

“The customer card has been 

a great success and is a potential 

growth area for the Brazilian department 

store in the future.” 

Important to know the management 

Nick Robinson meets with the 

management team on a regular basis 

to gain insight into the company’s 

development and growth potential. 

“It’s vital for us to know the 

management team and its qualities as 

well as their plans going forward.” 

You can learn more about Danske 

Invest at danskeinvest.com.

2HOTELS In January 2013, a new hotel steals 

into the heart of Oslo. Located in the city’s 

coolest neighborhood on the Tjuvholmen 

peninsula, the Thief has 119 rooms, many 

with balconies and water views, a wine bar 

with rooftop terrace, its own boat to ferry 

guests to and from the city center and an 

art collection assembled by Swedish curator 

Sune Nordgren. 

The Thief stands next door to the Astrup 

The Thief 

Landgangen 1, Oslo, Norway 

+47 24 00 40 00 

www.thethief.com 

Smooth criminal 

Fearnley Museum of Modern Art, designed 

by Italian architect Renzo Piano, and thanks 

to a partnership between the two properties 

the Thief can borrow pieces for display. 

There are five meeting rooms, including one 

with space for 40 guests and impressive 

views over the Oslo fjord. 

Despite its criminal past – Tjuv holmen 

means “thief island” and it was once an 

execution site – the area has been reformed 

and reborn and is now home to stores, bars, 

cafes, restaurants, and 1,200 apartments, 

all easily accessible from the popular Aker 

Brygge area. Just the place to do time. 

Doubles from $330. 

ANDERS LANDÉN 

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The cook, the 

café, the cakes 

and the cream 

3Caffe Sicilia Corso Vittorio Emanuele 3, Noto, Italy Tel: +39931 835013 

SCANORAMA DECEMBER 2012/JANUARY 2013 25 

�

THE HIT LIST 

CAFÉS How good can an ice cream be? 

Or marmalade? Or a pastry? 

The answer is, in the hands of Corrado 

Assenza it can be sensational. When you 

bear in mind that Italians are already famed 

for their gelato and dolce, you realize just 

how great an achievement this is. 

The 52-year-old confectionery king is 

a native of Noto in southeastern Sicily, 

where he has made Caffè Sicilia (which 

was founded in 1892) even more famous 

than the strikingly beautiful baroque town 

in which it sits. 

Assenza is a fourth-generation ice cream 

maker, born and raised at the café. He 

spent his early years in the kitchen, learning 

the art of ice cream making. Then he studied 

entomology (the study of insects) at 

the University of Bologna. While researching 

bees he learned almost everything 

there is to know about honey but then his 

aunt, who was running the café at the time, 

asked him to take over. Assenza packed 

up and returned to Sicily. These days his 

wife, Nives, can be found greeting guests 

and serving the world-renowned ice cream 

from behind the counter while Assenza 

is busy at culinary conventions, swapping 

ideas with some of Italy’s top chefs, or 

Something sweet: Almond granita 

served with a brioche, and ( below ) 

a delivery of fresh Sicilian oranges 

developing new mouth-watering mixtures 

using the finest local ingredients. He’s considered 

a pioneer for his innovative fusions 

of flavors, such as strawberry with Sicilian 

tomato, basil and a hint of garlic; saffron 

and orange; vanilla and Szechuan pepper; 

or bergamot with candied pumpkin. 

Assisting Assenza in the basement 

kitchen are Reiko Akata, who moved from 

Japan seven years ago to apply for a job 

after hearing about the cafe, and Corrado 

Lucci, pastry chef and Assenza’s fellow 

innovator for 24 years. 

Assenza travels the region to source 

the best ingredients. He uses much of the 

almond harvest in the region around Noto 

to make his rich, concentrated almond 

paste. When the rare Sicilian wild strawberry 

plant was endangered, due to its low 

profitability for the farmers, Assenza started 

cultivating the plant himself in his garden. 

He’s also lobbying farmers to stick to 

traditional agricultural methods, earning an 

international reputation as a green chef. 

The sorcerer and his apprentices: 

Corrado Assenza (above right) with co-workers 

( from left) Luca Torneo, Reiko Akata and 

Corrado Lucci, who has worked with 

Assenza for 24 years 

HEDVIG ANDERSSON 

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your trip at www.flysas.com. Use money or your 

EuroBonus points, or combine points and money. 

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THE HIT LIST 

4Wise guy 

RESTAURANTS Chef Paul Kahan is to Chicago’s 

dining scene what mobster Al Capone 

was to the city’s infamous underworld: a 

figure who stays in the shadows but who is, 

slowly and inexorably, taking over the city, 

one neighborhood at a time. 

The New American cuisine at Blackbird 

in the newly hot West Loop district 

earned him a Michelin star. Right next door 

he opened an extremely simple wine bar, 

Avec, which could be described as, well, a 

place with tables, chairs, wine and a simple 

menu. 

Not far away, in Chicago’s even hotter 

Meat Packing District, Kahan runs the 

butcher shop and café Publican Quality 

Meats, as well as The Publican which 

resembles a central European beer hall. Pictures 

depicting every possible porcine motif 

cover the walls and pork makes up much 

of the menu. A brunch of pork belly carbonara 

or red wine poached eggs, la quercia 

prosciutto, sourdough bread and béarnaise 

sauce may be just what you need after a 

late night at another Kahan establishment, 

the Violet Hour. 

This esteemed Wicker Park cocktail bar 

is known for its hard-to-find entrance and 

house rules that range from “No Cosmopolitans” 

to “Please do not bring anyone 

to the Violet Hour that you wouldn’t bring 

to your mother’s house for Sunday dinner.” 

The cocktail list is extensive and feels like it 

could date from one of the original speakeasies 

back in Capone’s days. Try the Violet 

Hour Old Fashioned, made with Old Weller 

Antique 107-proof whiskey, demerara syrup 

and Angostura bitters. 

Across the street is Kahan’s taqueria, Big 

Star, where the jukebox is full of country 

music, the bar serves micro-brewed beer, 

and the fish tacos taste as though it is the 

Rio Grande and not the Chicago River that 

flows through the city. 

Star attractions: A quartet of tacos and a glass 

of lemonade from Big Star (left) and the dining 

room at The Publican 

Fact Sheet 

Blackbird 

619 West Randolph Street 

+1 312 715 0708 

www.blackbirdrestaurant. 

com 

Avec 

615 West Randolph Street 

+1 312 377 2002 

www.avecrestaurant.com 

Publican Quality 

Meats 

825 West Fulton Market 

+1 312 445 8977 

www.publicanqualitymeats.com 

The Publican 

837 West Fulton Market 

+1 312 733 9555 

www.thepublicanrestaurant.com 

The Violet Hour 

1520 North Damen 

Avenue 

+1 773 252 1500 

www.theviolethour.com 

Big Star 

1531 North Damen 

Avenue 

+1 773 235 4039 

www.bigstarchicago.com 

MARCUS JOONS 

� GO TO CHICAGO SAS takes you to Chicago. 

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FREDRIK SKOGKVIST

THE HIT LIST 

SCANORAMA DECEMBER 2012/JANUARY 2013 29

THE HIT LIST 

If it’s good 

enough for Gucci… 

PASTRIES When your shopping bags begin 

to weigh you down on Corso Buenos Aires 

in Milan, console yourself with the knowledge 

that one of the city’s great pasticcerias 

is close at hand. Just look for Angelo Bernasconi’s 

open-topped Fiat 500 from 1953 

parked by the sidewalk on Via San Gregorio. 

There are 22 kinds of brioche behind the 

counter at Pasticceria San Gregorio, whose 

owner is just as skilled at making a refreshing 

Sicilian almond milk drink as he is at fi xing 

an espresso. For 30 years, Bernasconi 

has been here every day from 5am to 9pm. 

When Italy celebrated its 150th birthday 

last year, he gave everyone who dropped 

in a piece of his Italy-shaped cake. Other 

customers, including members of the Gucci 

family, come here for their daily cannoncino 

– a little canon-shaped pastry fi lled with 

vanilla cream. 

LARS COLLIN 

� GO TO MILAN SAS takes you to Milan. Book 

Pasticceria San Gregorio 

your trip at www.fl ysas.com or use your EuroBo- 

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nus points. Round-trips to Milan start at 40,000 

Via San Gregorio 1, Milan, Italy. 

points from airports in Scandinavia and Finland. 

www.pasticceriasangregorio.it Taxes and fees apply, from €43. 

MAURO 


THE HIT LIST 

Tricker’s 

67 Jermyn Street, London, England. 

Tel: +44 20 7930 6395. 

www.trickers.com 

Taylor’s 

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SHOES The statues in a city say something 

about that city’s soul. On London’s Jermyn 

Street, you can find a statue of Beau Brummell 

(1778-1840), a man who went down 

in history not for winning a war or curing a 

disease but because he took five hours to 

get dressed, coined the expression “dandy” 

and recommended that boots should be 

polished with champagne. 

After bowing down to Beau Brummell’s 

statue, you are so close to Tricker’s shoe 

temple you could crawl there if you wanted. 

There are many shoe brands that trace 

their ancestry to Jermyn Street. And 

although Tricker’s is nowhere near as established 

as Church’s, for example, it does 

make some of the world’s most desirable 

shoes. 

Tricker’s was founded in 1829 in 

Northampton, up in the East Midlands, 

where its shoes are still manufactured, “in 

the heart of English shoemaking country.” 

Tricker’s brogues are better looking than 

anyone else’s. Apart from the classic low 

brogues, there are the boots, à la Doc Martens, 

which place you somewhere between 

an elegant skinhead and a tough businessman. 

A pair of Tricker’s will set you back 

around $400, but on the plus side your 

shoes will probably age better than your 

feet. 

The sales clerks at Tricker’s are elderly 

gentle men who have probably never heard 

of the fashion bloggers who praise their 

shoes, but they know everything about calf 

upper leather and oak bark-tanned soles. 

JAN GRADVALL 

HUNT 

� GO TO LONDON SAS takes you to London. Book 

your trip at www.flysas.com or use your EuroBonus 

points. Round-trips to London start at 30,000 points 

from airports in Scandinavia and Finland. Taxes and 

fees apply, from €68. CHRISTOPHER 


L I M I T E D 

EDITION 

IF IT’S GOOD ENOUGH FOR ME, 

IT’S GOOD ENOUGH FOR YOU!

THE TRAVELER 

Christer Fuglesang 

Visiting the 

fi nal frontier 

Words by Oskar Hammarkrantz 

On December 9, 2006, Christer 

Fuglesang became the 

fi rst – and so far the only – 

Scandinavian to travel into 

space. Traveling aboard the Space Shuttle 

Discovery he entered orbit around the 

Earth and later docked with the International 

Space Station. The 55-year-old 

Swede, who started his career as a physicist, 

has spent 26 days and 17 hours in 

space, and has done fi ve space walks. 

Fuglesang began his space training in 

1992 at the European Astronaut Centre 

in Cologne, Germany. He also spent 

three years at Star City in Russia before 

he transferred to Houston and NASA in 

1996 where he completed his training as a 

NASA Mission Specialist. 

These days, Fuglesang lives in the Dutch 

city of Leiden, working as head of research 

for the European Space Agency (ESA). In 

his spare time, he has just published his 

third children’s book, Vattenvärlden (Fri 

Tanke Förlag; only available in Swedish). 

After traveling in space, is it hard to 

get a thrill from traveling on earth? 

No, it would be pretty depressing if I had 

to head into space every time I wanted 

a powerful experience. I can still enjoy 

a beautiful archipelago, a mysterious 

ancient forest or a dramatic sunset. 

We’ve all seen thousands of images of 

the Earth taken from space. How impressive 

is it to see that view yourself? 

It doesn’t matter how many photos you’ve 

seen, the reality is more amazing than you 

can imagine. The problem with the Space 

Shuttle and the International Space Station 

is that you don’t want to sleep. You 

want to look out all the time. 

What was the most 

fascinating thing to see? 

Thunderstorms rolling across the landscape 

and small points of light that are 

really big cities. The Mediterranean in particular 

is fascinating, with the contours of 

Italy and all the landmarks you recognize. 

Having a dad who was an astronaut must 

have been cool for your children when 

they were growing up. 

We lived in Houston, Texas, for nearly 14 

years and in our neighborhood many people 

were astronauts or something similar 

so it would have been more impressive if I 

were a policeman or fi reman. 

Can you enjoy science fi ction fi lms 

or do you get irritated by silly mistakes? 

I love Star Wars. It’s pure fantasy in a 

futuristic setting. But it gets harder when 

fi lms try to be more realistic, like in Armageddon. 

When they are fl ying behind the 

moon they are almost shaken to pieces by 

the g-force. But in fact you are weightless 


COURTESY OF NASA 

the whole way around the moon. And 

there is a long, drawn-out scene when 

they crash into the asteroid – it must go 

on for 30 seconds. A crash doesn’t take 

30 seconds. That makes me crazy. 

Could the aviation industry 

learn from the space industry? 

Historically it has been the other way 

around, with the space industry being a 

spin-off from aviation. Flight engineers 

and pilots were behind the fi rst space missions. 

But research about weightlessness 

can be of use to aviation as people fl y 

higher and higher. And there are exciting 

new materials, like a new alloy developed 

by the space industry which will be used 

in airplane engines to save weight, and 

that saves fuel. 

You are 55 now. Could you cope 

with another journey into space? 

Yes. You don’t need to be as strong as 

people think. The only physically demanding 

bit is the acceleration on liftoff but 

most people in perfect health can handle 

that. On space walks, you might need 

some physical strength because hatches 

and stuff can get stuck. The most impor- 

The Gear 

The fi rst time I traveled to the 

Space Station, I took along a 

Frisbee I had designed myself. 

I wanted to see how it worked 

in zero gravity. I was part of 

introducing Frisbee sport to 

Sweden and won a gold medal 

for “maximum time aloft” 

in the 1978 Swedish championships. 

I might still pack a 

Frisbee on my vacation trips. 

5 MUST-DO 

Earth-bound space attractions 

Kennedy Space Center, Orlando, USA 

This is where it all starts. An obvious stop for everyone 

who grew up in the Space Age, it also has a fun 

souvenir shop. 

www.kennedyspacecenter.com 

Space Museum, Moscow, Russia 

You get real respect for the fi rst Russian cosmonauts 

when you see their vessels, which almost look 

homemade. 

www.space-museum.ru 

CERN, Geneva, Switzerland 

Not space-related in the traditional sense, but if you 

are the least bit interested in physics, guided tours 

tant thing is that you are in perfect health 

so you don’t take any bacteria to the 

space station. 

When will space charters 

become a reality? 

If you mean shorter trips in an Earth orbit, 

then they are already here. If the Russians 

have any spaces left over on their space 

missions they usually sell them. It usually 

costs $20-30 million. And Richard 

Branson and his Virgin Galactic always 

say “next year.” They’ve been saying that 

for a few years now but the safety issue is 

much more important with tourists. They 

need more preparation. So once again, 

it’s just a question of money because 

we already have the technology and the 

knowledge. 

Should we return to the moon, 

or do we already know everything 

there is to know about it? 

It is defi nitely important and reasonable 

to go there again. We have a lot to learn 

there. And you could build telescopes 

there to see even further out into space. 

Visiting the moon is also an important 

preparation for future Mars expeditions. 

though the laboratories at CERN are a must. 

www.outreach.web.cern.ch/outreach 

THE TRAVELER 

Visualization Center C, Norrköping, Sweden 

Here they are good at making physics and science 

understandable, partly through their 3D fi lms. 

www.visualiseringscenter.se 

Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum, 

Washington DC, USA 

The Smithsonian gives you a clear picture of all 

the developments over the years, thanks to its 

large collection of airplanes and spacecraft. 

www.airandspace.se.edu/museum 

When I was accepted as an astronaut in 

1992 I always thought that I would get to 

fl y to the moon but for political and fi nancial 

reasons there haven’t been any more 

moon shots. And now it is too late for 

me. About one European a year gets into 

space and it won’t be my turn again for a 

while. 

When do you think that we 

will be back on the Moon? 

I think we will be there again in 12 years. It 

is just a question of who it will be. In China, 

it is a little easier to take political decisions 

about going for it, so they will probably 

be the fi rst. They will have their own 

space station around 2020. And I think 

we will see humans on Mars in around 25 

years. We already have the technology. It 

is just the fi nancial and political will that is 

stopping us. 

What do people sitting next 

to you on planes say when you 

tell them you are an astronaut? 

I usually say I work with physics research, 

which is true. I am head of research at 

ESA. After that I don’t often get so many 

more questions! 


37

taste of 

NORWAY IN CHILE 

In 1982, shipowner Dan Odfjell set sail from the Norwegian coastal city of 

Bergen, totally unaware that his journey would end on a fruit farm in Chile’s 

Maipo Valley. When he arrived there, it was love at first sight, and proof that 

natural beauty can leave even the most well-travelled shipowner lost for words. 

He quickly saw the land’s potential to produce characterful, full-bodied wines, 

and set about making his dream come true. 

Unfortunately, Odfjell came to Chile at a 

time when the country was in the grip of 

a military dictatorship and experiencing 

an economic crisis. The fruit-tree farm 

he was hoping to buy had been taken 

over by the state bank and there was 

a lot of interest when it was put up for 

sale. The situation seemed hopeless 

– should he let the love of his life slip 

away and be snapped up by one of 

the bank’s major customers? He was 

about to give up when fate intervened. 

A fighter plane crashed on the farm and 

destroyed part of the property. The 

other interested parties withdrew their 

offers and, as the only bidder, Dan 

Odfjell was finally able to realize his 

dream. 

His family quickly replaced the fruit- 

trees with mature vines from some of 

the best-known wine-growing regions 

in France and laid the foundations 

for what would become a Norwegian 

wine adventure in Chile. As a qualified 

architect, it was only natural that 

Dan Odfjell’s oldest son, Laurence 

Odfjell, should create the spectacular 

mountainside winery with views over 

the extensive vineyard. He designed 

the winery with function in mind – 60% of 

the building is below ground, meaning it 

has a naturally low, constant temperature. 

To make production less industrial and 

preserve the subtle characteristics 

of the fruit, Laurence used gravity to 

great effect when planning the deep, 

dark passageways under the property. 

This careful attention to the production 

process means that the different grape 

varieties are apparent in the wines. 

One particular range of wines is called 

“Armador”, which has a modern, fruit- 

driven, full-bodied style and distinctive 

oak finish. The name means “ship- 

owner” in Spanish, and was inspired 

by the family’s rich maritime heritage. 

A particularly exciting development 

came in 1987 when the family arranged 

for Norwegian fjord horses to be flown 

to the vineyard. When the valley’s 

wine industry began over 150 years 

ago, workhorses were used to carry 

the grape harvest from vineyard to 

winery – in honour of this tradition, the 

Norwegian horses have now taken on 

this role. The family also breeds horses 

and operates a riding centre providing 

therapy for physically disabled children. 

It is important to the Odfjell family to 

allow nature to do its work with as little 

interference as possible, so the vineyard 

is farmed in a completely organic way, 

and the grapes are picked by hand. This 

process ensures that the fruit is of the 

highest possible quality when it reaches 

the winery. 

Odfjell Vineyards now owns organic 

vineyards in several places in Chile. 

They are regarded locally as one of 

the best wine producers in the country. 

By growing grapes partly using biodynamic 

principles and restricting 

production levels at its vineyards, 

Odfjell makes wines characterized 

by the soil the grapes were grown in. 

Armador Cabernet Sauvignon is one 

of Odfjell’s most popular wines – fruity 

with notes of red berries and liquorice, 

the wine is round on the palate, 

concentrated and full-bodied. 

These qualities have made it threetime 

winner of the prestigious Wine 

Spectator magazine’s Best Buy award.

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ICELAND, NICELAND – LAND OF ICE 

THE NAME ICELAND – LAND OF ICE – AWAKENS THE URGE IN ANY ICE CLIMBING 

ENTHUSIAST TO PAY THIS NORTHERLY ISLAND A VISIT SOME TIME. 

GUÐ GU G MUND MUNDUR UR T TTÓMAS 

ÓMAS ÓMA SON 

However, getting up close and personal with the Icelandic weather conditions 

should be part of any trip. In the middle of winter you can experience proper winter 

conditions or more summer-like weather; it all depends on the position and severity 

of the Icelandic low-pressure system. 

Some old friends from Iceland got in touch, sent me some amazing pictures 

and wrote a line that immediately made me sit up and take notice: “Hey Albert – 

conditions are the best they’ve ever been.” The idea was simply brilliant. We were 

looking forward to the next chapter in our adventure anthology. 

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By Albert Leichtfried 

We were more than surprised to step off the plane in Reykjavik into a distinctly 

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thermometer read +5°C. Not exactly ideal temperatures for ice climbing. It became 

clear that we would have to postpone our coastal ice climbing and head to higher 

ground to escape this sudden onset of warm weather. 

Some 700 kilometers away from Reykjavik, after an endless drive through bizarre 

lava, volcanic and glacial landscapes, we reached our objective in the southeast of 

the island on the outskirts of the village of Eskifjördur, right on the East Fjords. We 

immediately felt at ease and the ice climbing possibilities high up above the Fjord 

looked promising too.

Over the next few days, we climbed three lines in this unique, totally peaceful, 

wild setting, directly above the Fjord. “Welcome to Iceland”, 300 meters, WI5/6R, 

climbed a gulley straight up onto the impressive high plateau. The crux on 

“Niceland”, 200 meters, WI6, went over a massive ice roof that has been shaped 

by the sea breeze, the kind of formation you could only ever find near the sea. We 

spent almost a whole day climbing the wonderfully varied route “Four by four”, 500 

meters, WI5/6. The local climbers confirmed to us that nobody had ever climbed on 

these mountains in winter.It is always a special feeling to be in a place that nobody 

has ever been to before. 

GUÐ GU GUÐ GU MUN MUND MUN MU UR TÓMAS T ÓMAS ASSON SON 

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After our three tiring first ascents, the next warm front pushed across Iceland. With 

rain and temperatures over +10°C the ice formations suffered greatly. You could 

watch them melt away by the hour. And so it was time to say goodbye to this 

wonderful land and postpone our dreams of first ascents right above the Fjord for 

a future visit. 

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CHRISTIAN WEIERMANN R 

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LONDON PUBS 

Nothing 

to grouse 

about 

LONDON, ENGLAND Gone are the days when a 

pint and a packet of pork rinds was enough to keep 

pulling in the punters. In order to survive, Britain’s 

pubs have had to up the quality of their grub 

Words by Stephen Whitlock Photographs by Bobo Olsson 


A glass half full: 

After-work drinks at one 

of Mayfair’s oldest pubs, 

the Coach and Horses 


XXXXXX

LONDON PUBS 

In a pub in London a pair of men in scruffy 

work clothes sit at a small round table 

drinking pints of beer beneath a giant 

flatscreen TV blaring sports reports. The 

bartender climbs up onto a chair to post a notice 

in the window: “Drinks £2 from 6am-6pm.” At the 

bar, a middle-aged man in a gray suit knocks back 

white wine at a steady rate. It’s half past seven in 

the morning. 

The pub is called The Hope and I’m here with 

Bobo, the photographer, because we’ve heard it 

serves a great breakfast that’s popular with workers 

from nearby Smithfield meat market. We’d 

hoped The Hope would be a classic Victorian pub 

packed with jovial cockneys enjoying a hot meal at 

the end of a long night spent carrying pig carcasses 

on their shoulders. In fact, The Hope is hopeless 

and lifeless. We’d leave only we’re too hungry, 

and so we order the Full English: a breafast of bacon, 

sausages, baked beans, fried eggs and toast. 

Expectations are low. Looking around the room 

it’s a sorry sight, decorated with a faded photo of 

Frank Sinatra and a framed newspaper clipping of 

Bob Hope’s top 100 one-liners. But then breakfast 

arrives – and it’s warm and tasty and comes with 

more hot buttered toast than we can manage. We 

wolf it down. At the bar the man in the light gray 

Breakfast delivery: 

It won’t win prizes 

for presentation 

but The Hope’s Full 

English was tasty 

We’d hoped 

The Hope 

would be 

a classic 

Victorian pub 

suit checks his watch, polishes off the last of his 

wine, and heads to the office. 

THE GREAT BRITISH PUB, an institution that can trace 

its origins back to places that provided sustenance 

to Romans when they were busy building 

roads across ancient Briton, is said to be in decline. 

This might seem hard to believe if you are 

in London on a Friday night. In Mayfair, for instance, 

the Coach and Horses (established 1744) 

is packed with young men in pinstripe suits with 

Prince Harry grins, while up the street at The 

Punch Bowl (established 1750, now owned by Guy 

Ritchie, Madonna’s ex) well-fed financial managers 

in tuxedos spill out onto the sidewalk. And 

yet, according to reports in The Daily Telegraph, 

a dozen pubs are closing each week. The British 

Beer & Pub Association (BBPA) says about 8,000 

pubs have closed over the past eight years. 

“Pubs remain the hub of social life in our villages, 

towns and cities, but we all have more leisure 

options than we have had in the past,” says 

Neil Williams of the BBPA. “Our homes are becoming 

entertainment zones, with state-of-theart 

TV and music systems, and people travel to 

other countries more. We are also drinking more 

at home. But nothing can replace the pub at the 


Abandon Hope: 

The atmosphere 

is cold but at least 

the toast is warm 


XXXXXX 

�

LONDON PUBS 

Order, order: 

Lunch at the Harwood 

Arms (right) where 

dishes might include 

Yorkshire grouse ( below) 

Not what you expect?: The exterior of the Harwood 

Arms gives no inkling of what you’ll find inside 

heart of the nation’s social life so we are pressing 

for the government to bring forward more supportive 

policies for pubs.” 

The BBPA says the tax levied on beer has risen 

42% since March 2008, and red tape and regulations 

are strangling pubs. Yet in one respect pubs 

are thriving. As the 2013 Good Pub Guide reports, 

more and more people now choose pubs over 

restaurants as dining venues. “Forty years ago 

you would be lucky to find a sandwich in a pub,” 

Williams says. “Today, pubs are the most popular 

places to eat out, selling more meals than all of 

Britain’s restaurants combined.” 

Decades ago, when pubs first started to serve 

meals, everything seemed to come in a basket. 

Chicken in a basket. Scampi in a basket. They 

would have put soup in a basket if it was thick 

enough. The basket added to the novelty of eating 

in a pub and helped disguise the likelihood of your 

meal being factory-made and microwave-heated. 

Nowadays you not only get a plate, but the food on 

it is better than ever. 

So it is that on an overcast Tuesday afternoon 

we’re walking through the quiet, largely residential 

streets of Fulham in west London, headed to 

the Harwood Arms, a stout building the color of 

uncooked liver. From the outside it looks like a 

traditional working-class London pub. Someone’s 

hung their laundry out to dry in an upstairs 

window. Step inside though and you find a bright 

and airy dining room, with stripped floorboards, 

wooden tables and arty black-and-white photographs 

of a pheasant hunt on the walls. It’s the 

sort of place where the butter comes on a square 

of slate and the cutlery is wrapped in a white cloth 

napkin tied with brown string. When you go to the 

bathroom they refold that napkin for you. 

The Harwood Arms has entered an elite club: 

it’s one of 13 pubs in Britain to have earned a 

Michelin star – and the only one in London. A 

friendly Canadian waitress comes over to take our 

Just peachy: 

Raspberry sorbet 

with poached peach, 

lemon thyme and 

salted almonds 


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LONDON PUBS 

It’s my round: 

Getting in the 

lunchtime beers 

at The Eagle 

orders. She’s in London to 

study taxidermy. “I make 

artworks that include 

taxidermy and London’s 

the best place to learn 

about it,” she says. She’s 

the first waitress I’ve met 

who could not only tell me 

the day’s specials but also 

stuff them for me. I opt for 

the three-course set lunch 

($40, available Monday- 

Friday) and a glass of British “champagne” – sparkling 

rosé wine from Hush Heath Estate in Kent. 

First up is beet soup and buttermilk biscuits, 

then Yorkshire grouse. The claws and feathers are 

still attached to the ends of the grouse’s legs so the 

little fellow looks like he’s wearing socks. For dessert, 

brown sugar donuts with sea buckthorn curd 

for me, poached peaches with raspberry sorbet 

for Bobo. It’s one of the best meals I’ve eaten in 

London in a long, long time. To drink there’s beer 

on tap, of course, but also a wine list that ranges 

from $6.50 glasses of house red or white to bottles 

of Château Lafleur for $800 (“layered richness 

and ferocious tannin”) and Grands Échézeaux 

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti for $1,900. 

‘We are going 

to Paris but 

a friend said 

we had to 

come here’ 

Looking around the 

room, there are signs that 

the Harwood is still a pub 

and not just another restaurant. 

A couple of punters 

(as pub customers 

are known) are standing 

at the bar while a couple 

more sit on the leather sofas 

by the fireplace, each 

with a pint. The Harwood 

even hosts a weekly pub 

quiz. However, most of the space is given over to 

diners. A man in a brass-buttoned blazer is having 

a romantic lunch with a blonde who may or 

may not be his wife, while two slick young men 

in sharp suits at the corner table talk too loudly 

about how much they drank last night. There’s 

also an Australian couple: “We’re on a tour of Europe, 

eating at all the best places,” the wife says. 

“We’re going to Paris next week but a friend said 

we had to come here.” 

ONCE UPON A TIME, not so long ago, pubs didn’t attract 

foodies. The pub was where people (usually 

men) came to drink (usually beer) and smoke 

(usually cigarettes, occasionally a pipe). They’d 

There’s the beef: 

The Eagle’s 

famous steak 

sandwich 


�

LONDON PUBS 

House and garden: 

Lunch on the terrace at 

the Sir Charles Napier 

(right) can begin with 

champagne on the lawn 

( below) and a scallop 

starter ( far right) 

talk (or not) and perhaps play darts. If they were 

hungry they might have some salt-and-vinegar 

potato chips, a pickled egg or a bag of pork scratchings 

– chewy nuggets of pork rind that often still 

had pig hairs attached. Sophisticated it was not. 

Growing up in a small village in Yorkshire in 

northern England in the 1970s, I saw the twilight 

days of that world. Sometimes my brother 

and I would sneak into the local pub, the Fox and 

Hounds, to buy a packet of potato chips with our 

allowance. It was a dark and dingy place of sticky 

surfaces, beer-soaked carpets and stale tobacco. 

Edgar the landlord, cigarette stuck to his lower 

lip, would take our money, hand over the chips 

and then yell at us to get out. 

How times change. That same pub in Yorkshire 

is now smoke-free and has things never seen in 

Edgar’s day: cutlery, napkins, pinot noir, children. 

Some changes, such as the smoking ban, have 

been forced on pubs but other changes are voluntary. 

Landlords have become increasingly aware 

that warm beer, a vinegary egg and a game of darts 

are no longer enough to entice people from the 

comfort of their homes. After all, you can buy beer 

more cheaply at the supermarket. So pubs have 

started to offer something you can’t always get at 

home – great food. 

THE PUB WIDELY CREDITED with being the first to offer 

top-notch food stands on a drab street in Clerkenwell, 

East London, one of those areas that no one 

seemed to go to until it became wildly fashionable 

a few years ago. During the week, when the people 

who work here are at their desks, the streets 

are fairly quiet but at the weekend it’s like one 

of those films in which a zombie virus has wiped 

out all the Londoners. The Eagle landed here in 

1991, opposite a multistory parking lot, but no one 

comes here for the view. They come for the food 

and the atmosphere, and this Sunday lunchtime 

both are in fine form. 

A group of old men occupies the green Chesterfield 

sofas, a young couple with a baby sit at 

the next table, and a young lad, presumably a relative 

of one of the employees, is perched at the bar 

drinking a Coca-Cola and reading the cartoons in 

the Sunday paper. Behind the bar a pair of boisterous 

Italian chefs work in a space not much larger 

than the galley of a small yacht. Plumes of flame 

regularly shoot up from the hob as they prepare 

and plate up grilled sardines, orecchiette, Greekstyle 

lamb, tapas, squid, chorizo... The menu, like 

the staff, is European with English influences. 

I order a pint and browse the menu, written on 

a chalkboard behind the bar, deciding on Yorkshire 

lamb that’s been roasted for seven hours 

($20). Bobo chooses a steak sandwich ($15). The 

lamb is so tender it falls apart if you look at it 

sharply; the sandwich is huge. The food is served 

on mismatched plates with mismatched cutlery. 

The only thing that’s consistent, judging from the 

faces around me, is that everything is delicious. 



XXXXXX 

Sun or shade?: 

Julie Griffiths 

(right), owner of the 

Sir Charles Napier �

LONDON PUBS 

The Eagle showed that pub 

food could be wonderful. But 

it turns out the gastro-pub 

may have been invented outside 

the capital. 

CATCHING A TRAIN FROM Marylebone 

Station, it’s amazing 

how quickly the gray of the 

city gives way to rolling green. 

Soon we’re chugging through some of the costliest 

real estate in England, past towns with names that 

sound like they come straight from Jane Austen’s 

address book: Cleverdon, Saunderton, Bicester 

Wood, Thame Parkway. 

We alight at Princes Risborough, a village 45 

minutes west of London. The first store we see 

sells model trains to people who feel their garden 

needs a private railroad. It’s market day and as we 

walk past the Literary Institute & Snooker Club a 

street vendor shouts out, over and over, “Lovely 

English Victoria plums! Lovely English strawberries!” 

Hard as it is to tear ourselves away, we 

have a lunch appointment to keep and hop a cab 

to the Sir Charles Napier, a country pub sitting 

A wonderful 

juxtaposition 

of Thai and 

traditional 

high in the Chilterns, the 

ridge of chalk hills that 

runs through southern 

England. In the words of 

Jay Rayner, The Observer’s 

restaurant critic, the Sir 

Charles “could reasonably 

be described as the godfather 

of the gastro-pub 

revolution, not least because 

it began life in exactly the same way as its 

modern counterparts: as an old 18th-century pub, 

sold off to somebody whose sensibilities lay less 

with beer taps and more with what could be put 

on the plate.” 

Getting out of the cab, it seems ordinary 

enough: a redbrick building on a quiet country 

lane with a fluttering Union Jack. Inside, there’s 

a small bar with a rather underwhelming dining 

room behind it. So far, so so-so. But then we step 

outside onto an unevenly paved terrace covered 

with a canopy of grapevines that leads to an immaculate 

lawn with a large bronze snail in the 

middle of it. Two small girls are climbing on the 

snail while their parents sit beside the flower- 

Blooming amazing : 

The exterior of the 

Churchill Arms 

is smothered with 

window boxes and 

hanging baskets 


�

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LONDON PUBS 

filled border and share a bottle of champagne. It’s 

a perfect English day. The owner, Julie Griffiths, 

flits from guest to guest, taking orders for lunch 

and offering a choice of tables. “Sun or shade?” 

she asks, which is not a question you’re used to 

hearing in England, even in the summertime. 

We take for a table on the terrace in the shade of 

the vines. None of the chairs or tables matches; as 

at the Eagle, not being too matchy-matchy seems 

to signal that you’re not a formal restaurant. The 

guests don’t match either, but they do have one 

thing in common: all appear to be well off, even 

the paunchy man wandering around in flip-flops 

and camouflage shorts with his shirt hanging 

open. In the parking lot a scarlet AC Bristol, a classic 

British sports car, stands alongside a number 

of sleek German automobiles. However, there are 

more ostentatious ways to arrive. 

“We saw one man arrive by helicopter and walk 

up the lawn with a girl on each arm,” says Vic Gaffin, 

who is dining with his wife, Linda, at the next 

table. Vic and Linda have been regulars at the Napier 

for 35 years, and plan to celebrate their wedding 

anniversary here. “I’ve eaten at a lot of restaurants 

all over the world with my job, traveling 

to more than 50 countries, and this is my favorite 

place,” Vic says. “It’s because of the ambience. The 

food is good but the ambience is even better.” 

For lunch, I choose crab salad with a glass of 

Viognier, then ox cheek with burgundy. Bobo 

starts with scallops and Riesling, then grouse with 

Côtes du Rhône. The food is impeccable. It’s easy 

to appreciate why the Sir Charles is also one of 

those Michelin-starred pubs. 

After lunch, Vic and Linda give us a lift back 

to the station. Despite the wonderful food and 

setting, I can’t shake the feeling that something 

has been lost along the way. It’s hard to think of 

anywhere nicer to dine on a sunny day, but a truly 

great pub can be enjoyed regardless of the weather. 

As the line blurs between pubs and restaurants, 

there’s a danger that pubs can lose their pub-ness. 

IN 1943, GEORGE ORWELL WROTE an essay on his favorite 

pub, The Moon Under Water. He specified that 

a perfect pub should have “draught stout, open 

fires, cheap meals, a garden, motherly barmaids 

and no radio… The barmaids know most of their 

customers by name, and take a personal interest 

in everyone. They are all middle-aged women – 

Called to the bar: 

The cheerfully 

cluttered – and 

ever-popular – 

Churchill Arms 


�

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Champagne region. Blended and bottled at one of the few cognac houses 

still traditionally run by the same family. www.braastad.com 

Walking among cognacs 

that are this old, I feel 

respect. Knowing some of 

them were casked by my 

grandfather, I feel pride. 

RICHARD BRAASTAD, Master blender

LONDON PUBS 

THE FACT SHEET 

PUB VERDICT ADDRESS PINT FROM 

RATING 

The Harwood 

Arms 

The Sir 

Charles Napier 

The Jerusalem 

Tavern 

The Hope 

The Churchill 

Arms 

The Eagle 

What the pint 

glasses mean: 

Unbelievable food but you 

can still just stop in for a pint. 

Idyllic on a sunny day, but 

don’t expect a proper pub. 

Character, charm, history, and 

great beer – what more could 

you want? 

Hopeless 

(despite the excellent fry-up). 

Victorian pub meets Thai 

restaurant: an unexpectedly 

good combination 

The place that changed 

pub grub forever. 

two of them have their hair dyed in quite surprising 

shades – and they call everyone ‘Dear,’ irrespective 

of age or sex.” He then revealed that The 

Moon Under Water is imaginary, a dream of how 

a pub should be. My own must-have list would 

include a sense of history, small-batch beer, no 

music, and an atmosphere that makes it easy to 

engage other customers in friendly conversation. 

The Churchill Arms comes close. Orwell would 

have loved the architecture of this Victorian boozer 

on the border of Kensington High Street and 

Notting Hill as he preferred pubs with “the solid, 

comfortable ugliness of the 19th century.” From 

the outside it’s an astonishing sight, covered with 

a riot of hanging baskets and blooming window 

boxes so that the entire building looks like a huge, 

over-decorated birthday cake. 

Inside, copper tankards hang from the beams 

and pictures of the Queen Mother, Winston 

Churchill and other great Britons smother the 

walls, alongside a clutter of mirrors, street signs 

and assorted memorabilia. It has heavy darkwood 

furniture and the same boldly patterned 

burgundy carpet you always fi nd in Victorian 

pubs. A lively mix of punters fi lls the bar: loud 

Australians in rugby shirts, a bickering husband 

and wife with a dog, an elderly dandy wearing a 

Walham Grove, 

Fulham, London. 

www.harwoodarms.com 

Sprigs Holly, 

Chinnor, Oxfordshire. 

www.sircharlesnapier.co.uk 

55 Britton Street, 

Clerkenwell, London. 

www.stpetersbrewery.co.uk 

94 Cowcross Street, 

Smithfi eld, London. 

119 Kensington Church 

Street, London. www. 

churchillarmskensington.co.uk 

159 Farringdon Road, 

Clerkenwell, London. 


$6.50 

$6.50 

$5 

$6 (with 

$3 specials) 

$5.50 

Local hero Halfway house Bottom of the barrel 

$5 

�

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CHEERS! 

The 2013 Michelin guide 

awarded stars to 13 UK pubs, 

including The Harwood Arms 

and the Sir Charles Napier. 

The Hand & Flowers is the 

only pub with two stars. 

* The Sir Charles Napier 

Chinnor, Oxfordshire 

www.sircharlesnapier.co.uk 

* The Harwood Arms 

Fulham, London 

www.harwoodarms.com 

** The Hand & Flowers 

Marlow, Buckinghamshire 

www.thehandandflowers.co.uk 

* The Pipe and Glass Inn 

South Dalton, East Yorkshire 

www.pipeandglass.co.uk 

* The Butchers Arms 

Eldersfield, Gloucestershire 

www.thebutchersarms.net 

* The Hinds Head 

Bray, Berkshire 

www.hindsheadbray.com 

* Red Lion 

East Chisenbury, Wiltshire 

www.redlionfreehouse.com 

* The Masons Arms 

Knowstone, Devon 

www.masonsarmsdevon.co.uk 

* The Black Swan 

Oldstead, North Yorkshire 

www.blackswanoldstead.co.uk 

* The Stagg Inn 

Titley, Herefordshire 

www.thestagg.co.uk 

* The Sportsman 

Whitstable, Kent 

www.thesportsmanseasalter.co.uk 

* The Nut Tree 

Murcott, Oxfordshire 

www.nuttreeinn.co.uk 

* The Pony & Trap 

Chew Magna, Somerset 

www.theponyandtrap.co.uk 

� GO TO LONDON SAS takes you to London. Book your trip 

at www.flysas.com or use your EuroBonus points. Round-trips 

to London start at 30,000 points from airports in Scandinavia 

and Finland. Taxes and fees apply, from €68. 

trilby hat and a touch of makeup, a man who looks 

like a Beat poet dressed all in black who regularly 

steps out for a hand-rolled cigarette. What’s totally 

unexpected is that in back there’s a lively Thai 

restaurant serving dishes such as chicken khao rad 

na (rice stir-fry with vegetables and gravy) and 

kaeng ped phed yang (roasted duck with red curry) 

in a room where orchids and tropical vines hang 

from the ceiling. It’s a wonderful juxtaposition of 

Thai and traditional – Bang-cockney? – but what 

robs The Churchill of its cigar is its own success. 

It’s simply too busy for our liking. 

The following afternoon we’re back in Clerkenwell. 

After a few wrong turns down narrow Dickensian 

streets, the Jerusalem Tavern appears like 

a stage set left over from the filming of Oliver! It 

dates from 1810 and once housed a watchmaker, 

hence the huge windows to let in as much light as 

possible. The interior is old and inviting, all dark 

gray stone and woodwork painted seaweed green, 

with engravings and decorative blue-and-white 

tiling on the walls. St. Peter’s Brewery from Suffolk 

owns the pub and makes the ales, including 

cream ale, organic bitter, grapefruit ale and even 

(a sign of the times) gluten-free ale. A sign headed 

“Serious Pig” lists ham and salami to nibble on, 

and there are sourdough sandwiches. Today’s special 

is sea bream. What more could you ask? 

The quiet is disturbed only by the slow ticking 

of an old clock and an American couple whose conversation 

ranges over presidential politics, British 

art and their shared love of Buffy the Vampire 

Slayer as they drink their pints of winter ale. In the 

front bar twentysomething Matt Higgins sits by 

the window reading The Economist over a pint of 

St. Peter’s mild. We strike up a conversation and in 

just a few words he sums up the simple pleasures 

of a pub. 

“I’m off work this week,” he says. “I’ve got my 

newspaper, I’ve got my beer. Life is grand.” � 

Lazing on a 

sunny afternoon: 

Enjoying a weekday 

pint at the 

Jerusalem Tavern 


XXXXXX

Illustrations: Lund Hagem og Atelier Oslo 

PRESTIGIOUS OFFICE BUILDING 

AT THE WATERFRONT OF OSLOS 

NEW CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT 

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and the new Deichmanske library in Bjørvika. Diagonale will provide 12 400 sq. m of high-end, efficient 

office space in a spectacular full service building designed by architects Lund Hagem Arkitekter and 

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Bjørvika is a destination for cultural and recreational experiences, shopping, living and businesses alike. 

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O F F I C E 

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HAV Eiendom AS is a subsidiary 

of Oslo Port Authorities. The 

undertaking of HAV Eiendom AS 

is to plan and arrange for urban 

development in Bjørvika through 

real estate development.

Words by Lars Collin 

Photographs by Johanna Ekmark 

Equal parts classic ski resort 

and cool university town, Austria’s 

self-styled capital of the Alps offers 

the best of two winter worlds 

PERFECT INNSBRUCK 



The relaxed interior 

of Restaurant Sitzwohl 

1. The restaurant 

Amid the palatial banks of the city 

center, an old school-turned-restaurant 

offers a master class in Tirolean cuisine. 

Sitzwohl’s owners, Elisabeth Geisler and 

Irmgard Sitzwohl, also bring into play 

Mediterranean influences, as can be 

seen from their Oktopusgröstl – classic 

Tiroler gröstl (pork-and-potato hash) 

topped with octopus. Geisler calls their 

style of cooking a marriage of simplicity 

and good produce. The adjoining 

Geislerei deli sells Sitzwohl’s own 

chutneys, jams and soups. 

Stadtforum. 

Tel: +43 512 562888. 

www.restaurantsitzwohl.at 

2. Architectural highs 

Innsbruck’s take on the subway is a 

cable car. The ultramodern Hungerburg 

funicular climbs from the old town via 

the Alpine Zoo to Mount Hungerburg 

through futuristic glass stations 

designed by Zaha Hadid, the architect 

behind the recently revamped Bergisel 

Ski Jump. Originally built in 1928, the 

90-meter landmark immortalized in 

the 1964 and 1976 Winter Olympics was 

crowned with a viewing platform and 

panoramic café when it was remodeled 

10 years ago. $7 round-trip. 

Hungerburgbahn www.nordkette.com 

Bergisel Ski Jump www.bergisel.info 


The Nordkette’s slopes attract 

visitors and locals 



�


Elisabeth Geisler of Sitzwohl, 

with the restaurant’s cookbook 

3. The farmers market 

Was es da alles gibt (“here you can find 

everything”) says a sign at Markthalle, 

Tirol’s largest farmers market. In the 

case of this functionalist treasure that 

means hams, sausages, cheeses, wines 

and obstler (fruit schnapps). There have 

been markets at the bridge over the river 

Inn, for which Innsbruck is named, for 

more than 200 years. You should make a 

beeline for the west wing of the market 

hall, a gorgeous art nouveau building 

that, early in the morning, provides a 

taste of most of the produce from the 

surrounding countryside with farmers 

carting in honey, homemade schnapps, 

newly baked bread and freshwater fish. 

Don’t miss the mountain cheese from 

Tiroler Schmankerl-Alm. 

Herzog-Siegmund-Ufer 1. 

www.markthalle-innsbruck.at 

4. Required reading 

Apart from a granite table with fresh 

tulips, it is wall-to-wall books at 

Buchhandlung Haymon. Local architect 

Rainer Köberl has won numerous 

awards for the stripped-down interior 

of this shiny black temple to the written 

word, including one for new architecture 

in Tirol. Outside, the recently spruced 

up Sparkassenplatz turns into a 

miniature Rockefeller Center in winter, 

complete with outdoor ice rink. 

Sparkassenplatz 4. 

www.haymonbuchhandlung.at 

5. Cram in a run 

Lest you forget, the slopes are always 

tantalizingly within reach of Innsbruck. 

Everyone seems to be shouldering their 

skis or cradling their snowboards, not 

least the town’s university students. 

The Nordkette mountain range is just 

a 20-minute cable car ride from the 

lecture hall so there’s time to hurtle 

down the Hafelekarrinne, one of the 

steepest runs in Europe, and still make it 

Browsing the shelves of 

Buchhandlung Haymon 


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Some of the many meats 

at Speckschwemme 

back to class after lunch. Those inclined 

to stay at 2,000 meters either position 

their sun loungers facing south at the 

Alpenlounge Seegrube & Hafelekar 

Restaurant (Tel: +43 664 88447817) for 

spectacular views of Innsbruck or glide 

into the Cloud9 Igloo Bar to enjoy the 

après-ski. 

www.nordkette.com 

6. The sausage factory 

The rich arome tells you just how 

many sausages they have squeezed into 

Speckschwemme, which doesn’t so 

much resemble a deli as a hunting cabin. 

Connoisseurs have been visiting this 

hole-in-the-wall since 1950. It’s chockfull 

of aromatic air-dried hams, smoked 

sausages made from venison and wild 

boar, Bauernspeck from Alpbach and 

Tirolean sourdough bread. Next door 

is another tiny Innsbruck institution: 

Culinarium (Pfarrgasse 1), a wine and 

schnapps boutique that stocks more 

than 200 Austrian wines. 

Stiftgasse 4 

7. Cloud five 

The glass elevator at The Penz, 

Innsbruck’s first designer hotel, 

whisks you up to the fifth floor and the 

American Bar where you can drink in 

the city, the Alps and the stars through 

panoramic windows. Our guide to the 

night sky is bar manager Greg Wardle, 

an Australian who has got a taste for 

Mitteleuropa. Everyone from skiers 

and local politicians to Prince Albert of 


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Monaco orders the Hugo, Innsbruck’s 

favorite cocktail, a blend of prosecco, 

soda, elderflower cordial, lime and mint. 

Rooms from $180. 

Adolf–Pichler Platz 3. 

Tel: +43 512 575657. 

www.the-penz.com 

8. The hot cocoa 

Café Munding, Tirol’s oldest café, is 

full of charming reminders of the past. 

Founded in 1803, the interior recalls 

its early days as purveyor to Archduke 

Eugen of Austria and Prince Ludwig 

of Saxe-Coburg-Koháry, but there 

are also details dating from the 1940s 

and a spluttering Faema E61 espresso 

machine. Munding has roasted its own 

coffee for more than a century, but its 

signature drink is the hot chocolate 

served on a silver tray: a highball glass of 

warm milk with Valrhona chocolate and 

a bowl of whipped cream on the side. 

Kiebachgasse 16. 

www.munding.at 

9. The change of scenery 

Just 15 minutes from Innsbruck, Igls 

has been a full-fledged spa resort since 

1902, with Emperor Franz Josef and 

the Russian aristocracy summering 

here. But this Alpine village has 

plenty going for it in winter, too. The 

classic Sporthotel Igls has Mount 

Patscherkofel, the Olympic bobsled 

track and memories of two Winter 

Shopping in the Markthalle (left) and a 

chocolate treat at Café Munding (below) 

Sporthotel Igls near Mount Patscherkofel 


�

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The rooftop bar 

at The Penz 

Games right on its doorstep. In 1976, 

the entire nation held its breath for two 

magical minutes when the 22-year-old 

downhiller Franz Klammer was going 

for gold. Rooms from $90. 

Hilberstrasse 17, Igls. 

Tel: +43 512 377241. 

www.sporthotel-igls.com 

10. The museum 

There were plenty of kings in 16thcentury 

Europe, but the Pope only 

crowned one of them and he lived 

in Innsbruck. Inside the Hofkirche, 

or Court Church, is a cenotaph to 

Maximilian I – he’s actually buried in 

Wiener Neustadt, outside Vienna – with 

the church’s majestic nave dominated � 


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dedication. The world of wine, in particular 

the Douro region, is a family passion since the 

foundation in 1842. Dirk Niepoort now leads 

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A Progressive Centre 

of large-scale Industry 

and Sustainable Energy 

IDEALLY POSITIONED IN CENTRAL 

DENMARK, RIGHT NEXT TO THE 

MOST IMPORTANT SHIPPING 

ROUTES TO AND FROM THE BALTIC, 

THE PORT OF GRENAA HAS SEEN 

RAPID DEVELOPMENT IN RECENT 

YEARS. AND WITH OWNERS AND 

MANAGEMENT DETERMINED TO 

FURTHER PROVE ITS POTENTIAL, THE 

PORT IN EASTERN JUTLAND IS EN 

ROUTE TO BECOMING A LEADING 

INDUSTRY PORT. 

By Mikkel Drewsen 

Various factors weigh in when 

considering a port’s merits and its 

suitability for large-scale industrial 

operations — such as the assembly 

and installation of offshore wind turbines. 

At Port of Grenaa Ltd., they are 

well aware of this fact. And they have 

shaped their business strategy and the 

port’s development to cater to exactly 

these sorts of enterprises, focusing on 

making the port of Grenaa an attractive 

choice for anyone looking for a port capable 

of handling vessels of almost any 

size, carrying practically any sort of cargo. 

– No doubt that our many efforts to 

improve our port — including the expansion 

of the area surrounding the new 

northern port as well as the increase of 

depth of water to 11 metres — and our con- 

tinued work to draw attention to the port’s 

strengths and advantages are now paying 

off in great measure, states Henning 

Laursen, Managing Director at Port of 

Grenaa Ltd. 

– The determined collaborative initiatives 

of the port and a cluster of local businesses 

have led to the selection of Grenaa as the 

pre-assembly port during the installation 

of the 111 wind turbines that comprise 

Anholt Offshore Wind Farm. The pre- 

assembly and installation have been underway 

for a while and are taking place over 

the next few years, creating jobs and stimulating 

industrial and environmental development, 

not just in Grenaa but throughout 

Denmark, says Henning Laursen, adding 

that the port’s recent successes have not 

caused him or his colleagues to rest on 

their laurels: 

– We’re eager to capitalise on the positive 

attention we’ve received recently, and to 

continue developing. We want to challenge 

ourselves and keep improving both the 

physical surroundings at our port and the 

way we conduct business with our clients. 

Ambitions to go further 

Port of Grenaa Ltd. has invested in a 

number of areas, among other things 

securing and preparing large open spaces 

for future business ventures. With 

an efficient infrastructure and through 

close relationships with local and national 

businesses alike, the port is making a 

name for itself as a location and a partner 

to be considered when searching for a 

place to establish one’s business, or when 

in need of a reliable port for import and 

export. 

KP Mehlsen, Key Account Manager 

at Port of Grenaa Ltd., points to another 

reason why the port is attractive for many 

types of industry: 

– Our geographical position on the outskirts 

of Grenaa, isolated from private 

homes and the general population, allows 

us to offer clients very favourable conditions. 

We don’t suffer under the limitations 

and imposing conditions that apply for 

many city or town ports, he says. 

To KP Mehlsen, what best describes 

the port of Grenaa is its ability to accommodate 

the needs of large multi-national 

corporations as well as smaller businesses 

that mainly operate through the port of 

Grenaa. 

– We strive to deliver a very high level 

of service to all clients, regardless of size. 

It is imperative that we remain a progressive 

and forward-looking port and 

keep expanding our activities in new areas 

and industries, the energy and recycling 

sectors in particular. But that does not 

mean that we must ever neglect the core 

of businesses that we depend upon — 

those who rely on our services, large tank 

capacities and equipment for importing 

and exporting bulk cargo, biomass etc. We 

have to continue to work hard at providing 

these and other industries with the best 

possible conditions at the port of Grenaa. 

That’s how we ensure that the progress of 

recent years leads to further prosperity for 

our customers, the Key Account Manager 

concludes. 

www.port-of-grenaa.com

Colorful buildings line 

the banks of the Inn 

by 28 bronzes of the Holy Roman 

Emperor’s ancestors, both real and 

mythical. It would take 82 years and 

three generations of artists, including 

Albrecht Dürer whom Maximilian 

patronized, to complete the ornate 

tomb of Carrara marble. Hofkirche is a 

museum by day and a working church 

on weekends and evenings. Admission: 

$12.50. 

Universitätsstrasse 2. 

www.tiroler-landesmuseum.at 

� GO TO INNSBRUCK SAS takes you to Innsbruck. 

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PATA NEGRA 

Oak! Oak!: Carlos Tristancho 

(right) surveys the acorn-rich 

dehesa, the natural habitat of 

the Ibérico pig whose ham – 

pata negra – is considered the 

best that money can buy 


Hamming it up 

MADRID, SPAIN Jamón Ibérico de bellota is the Beluga caviar of 

the ham world. Scanorama trots off to the dehesa in search 

of the acorn-fed pig whose bacon is packed with goodness 

Words by Tara Stevens Photographs by Camilla Lindqvist 

PATA NEGRA 


PATA NEGRA 

It’s lunchtime in Badajoz in Extremadura, 

southwest Spain, and I’m leaning over the 

counter of a vast state-of-the art kitchen 

in the Monasterio de Rocamador examining 

different cuts of meat. This is not any 

old meat mind you, but beautifully sculpted cuts 

of Ibérico de bellota – pork from acorn-fed pigs – 

for which the region is famous. The richly marbled 

meat is as dark as good Bordeaux, almost the 

color of beef. My host, Carlos Tristancho, an actor 

turned pig farmer, is bent over the stove pressing 

his fingers into the top of a pork steak. “You can 

tell when it’s done by the bounce,” he says, before 

rushing off to scrabble in a cupboard for a pot of 

sea salt. 

Perched on a lonely ridge high above the dehesa 

– the rolling landscape of meadows and forests of 

holm oak and cork oak that the native Ibérico pig 

has roamed for mil len nia – the early 16th-century 

Franciscan mon as tery has a certain crumbling 

majesty about it. The unruly gardens seem to 

sprout from the founda tions and huge stork nests 

crown its disused chimney stacks. Inside, the 

rooms are dark and cool with mazelike corridors 

leading from living rooms and bedrooms to sunbaked 

terraces and shady porches. 

For the past 15 years this ancient stone building 

has been a hotel as well as a home, but it is on 

the market now that Tristancho is divorcing. “It 

had 30 bedrooms,” he says. “It was simply too big 

for us.” While I sip a nutty aged Manzanilla from 

Sanlúcar de Barrameda in Andalusia, Tristancho 

flutters about the kitchen. A raw cauliflower salad 

with sunflower seeds and soy sauce is paired with 

juicy slices of pluma (the triangular shaped muscle 

taken from just over the pig’s shoulder), which 

he serves rare – the Ibérico pig is trichina-free so 

you won’t get ill if the meat isn’t cooked through. 

While we eat, Tristancho regales me with stories 

of his acting career, including a role in Pedro Almodóvar’s 

first film Pepi, Luci, Bom (1980). 

It was then that he met his wife, Lucía Dominguín 

Bosé, the daughter of legendary bullfighter 

Luis Miguel Dominguín, whose circle in cluded 

Er nest Hem ing way, Lauren Bacall, Ava Gardner 

and Frank Sinatra, all of whom were avid 

ad mirers of the dashing matador and frequent 

guests at his estate during la temporada taurina 

(the bull fight ing season ). They would turn out 

to cheer him on at the corridas and in so doing 

sprinkle a little stardust over this remote corner 

of Spain. Tristancho, however, attracts a different 

kind of celebrity. 

His company, País de Quercus, supplies charcuterie 

to many of Spain’s top chefs: Andoni Luis 

Aduriz (Mu garitz), Manuel de la Osa (Las Rejas), 

Xavier Pelli cer (Can Fabes) and Joan Roca (El 

Celler de Can Roca), to name a few. Ferran Adrià 

and Britain’s Heston Blumenthal (The Fat Duck) 

swear by his meat. Tristancho, however, insists 

that they also get to know its provenance: the dehesa 

and its inhabitants. 

AND SO IT IS THAT ON A sweltering July day, after a 

late lunch and a long siesta, we find ourselves 

driving across the dehesa in Tristancho’s dusty 

4x4 to the Finca Cantillana, the farm where he 

raises 650 purebred Ibérico pigs, 350 head of 

Retinta cattle and 1,600 merino sheep. I had 

expected wild and untamed country, but the grass 

– or what is left of it since it has largely turned to 

dust now – is manicured to perfection thanks to 

the cattle and sheep that graze here before it is 

turned over to the pigs in the fall. 

The Ibérico pig is indigenous to the Iberian 

Peninsula and is a close descendant of Iberian 

wild boar. Extre madura fa vors two breeds: La 

Colorada, which is distinguished by its russet 

tones and com pact body; and La Negra, which is 

bigger and more cartoonish with an elongated 

snout and coarse black hair. Most have black 

feet – hence the term pata negra, or “black hoof,” 

referring both to the pig and the ham – but what 

differentiates these from just any old grain-fed 

Iberian pig is that during the montanera (fattening 

period) they scamper freely around the dehesa 

on a diet of acorns, fresh air and exercise, which 

Salad days: Tristancho 

(right) in the kitchen of the 

Monasterio de Rocamador , 

which counts Ferran Adrià 

and Heston Blumenthal 

among its guest chefs 


PATA NEGRA 


�

PATA NEGRA 

Four-legged acorn eaters: 

Ibérico pigs cluster in the 

shade on the dehesa 

explains the characteristic marbling and succulence 

of the meat. 

The dehesa of southwest Spain covers 1.6 million 

hectares, a million hectares of which are in 

Ex tremadura, which accounts for two-thirds of 

Spain’s output of jamón Ibérico de bellota (cured 

ham made from acorn-fed pigs). For its ham to 

be classified as such, the pig must be at least 75% 

Ibérico, which leaves a fair amount of room for 

cross breeding, typically with the meatier Black- 

Duroc or Duroc-Jersey pig. They must have had at 

least one montanera before being killed, although 

Tristancho’s have had three before they are “sac - 

rificed.” Through fall and winter, from October 

to February, the pigs feed on at least 6kg-7kg of 

acorns a day, gain ing around 100kg in weight. 

This is what gives their meat its distinctive sweet, 

nutty flavor. The fat, which should melt at room 

temperature, has a level of oleic acids comparable 

to olive oil. Many aficionados consider the fat to 

be the best part of the jamón, going so far as to 

claim it helps lowers their cholesterol. 

“In the old days the ham was even sweeter, because 

the acorns were supplemented with figs,” 

Tristancho says, as we judder to a halt in the shade 

of a small copse where a herd of 30 or so pigs jostle 

for space around what remains of a mud hole that 

has dried up in the sun. “The bigger farms stopped 

doing it because it increased their workload and 

costs. My pigs still eat figs.” 

Some might consider it a wise in vestment. At 

cur rent prices, Tristancho’s ham goes for $65 a 

kilo, meaning a whole leg could easily cost you 

upward of $525. 

His pigs are fine beasts: bright-eyed with cute, 

corkscrew tails that wiggle when they walk, and a 

ruddy black skin that is almost bloody in appearance, 

which is typical of the Colorada pig – the undisputed 

kings of the realm. “Dinner?” Tristancho 

says, rubbing his hands, as the pigs shoot past us in 

a cloud of dust, clearly spooked by the photographer 

in their midst. 

We are to dine with Tristancho’s mom, Doña 

Rita, who’s visiting her two grandsons at his sister’s 

ranch, Las Navas. When we arrive she ushers 

us into the kitchen for a cold supper of local goat 

cheese and thickly cut chorizo, washed down with 

Cruz campo beer. Last year Andoni Luis Aduriz 

and Heston Blumenthal were here, up to their elbows 

in blood and fat making their own sausages 

and breakfasting on fried offal and jugs of homemade 

wine. “They grow more grapes here than 

Rioja but it’s too strong, madre mia,” Rita says, 

crossing herself, as Tristancho shows the boys 


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PATA NEGRA 

how to make spaghetti with burro de salvia (sage 

butter) from herbs grown in the garden. 

EARLY THE NEXT MORNING we’re zipping across the 

chalky countryside to a jaunty soundtrack of 

Ex tre maduran jotas (folk music). I’m struck by 

the emptiness of our surroundings. This region is 

bigger than Holland and has a population of more 

than a million, but all we see are small whitewashed 

villages, grandiose haciendas accented 

in yellow ocher, and the endless dehesa. Pais de 

Quercus’s HQ is in Badajoz, a frontier town just 

4km from Portugal, but we are headed north to Alburquerque 

to meet Manuel Maldonado, Spain’s 

unofficial king of ham and sausages, and the man 

responsible for turning Tristancho’s pigs into 

jamón. “He’s quite simply the best,” Tristancho 

says as we pull up outside the Maldonado curing 

factory. 

The building is unremarkable from the outside: 

squat, square and white with a small store in the 

entrance. Slip behind the blue plastic curtains that 

separate re tail from production, however, and you 

enter a ca thedral of ham. Inside the curing rooms 

and cellars, tawny hams hang seven stories high, 

clustered together in small sections – or chapels, 

if you will – assigned to different producers and 

clearly marked by name. We take in Tristancho’s 

Finca Cantillana hams before strolling the aisles, 

a forest of legs navigated by green, concrete paths. 

“How many are there?” I ask. Maldo nado shrugs. 

“Thousands, though without checking the inventory 

I have no exact figure.” 

The pig’s journey from farm to plate is not a 

quick one. First the legs (jamóns) and shoulders 

(paletas) are placed in wooden boxes filled with 

sea salt where they will stay for roughly one day 

per kilo. After salting they are thoroughly washed 

and dried, and then spend 90 days in a cooler to 

concentrate the flavors. When Maldonado opens 

the door to the walk-in refrigerator the smell hits 

you like a wall: woody, herby, smoky, buttery and 

sweet. Not meaty at all. 

“The ecosystem that creates this pig is really 

a miracle of nature,” says Maldonado, who only 

works with purebred Ibérico pigs. “Dehesa pigs 

are the only species of pig other than wild boar 

that can survive in the wild. It stores fat from 

the acorns during the montanera to live off in the 

summer, and it works like magic. From October 

onward it eats close to 10kg of acorns a day and 

gains a kilo a day. It’s at its fattest at the coldest 

time of year [January/February], which is when 

we have the matanza [sacrifice], allowing us to salt 

it at peak condition.” 

Even the curing process reflects the seasons of 

the dehesa. Upstairs in the curing rooms the windows 

are shut during the day and opened at night 

At home on the ranch: 

Tristancho and mom Doña 

Rita in the kitchen at Las 

Navas; charcuterie from 

last year’s matanza (above) � 


PATA NEGRA 

to let the air circulate. As winter turns to spring 

and summer, incredible changes take place. The 

salted hams begin to sweat in the heat, losing almost 

half their weight as the fat drips away. The remaining 

fat becomes the monounsaturated kind, 

which studies have shown to be good for the heart, 

losing weight and rheumatoid arthritis, among 

other things. Then, as it gets cooler, the hams start 

to dry out and the flavors deepen. These hams will 

spend a year to 18 months in the cur ing rooms before 

going down to the bodega to mature for another 

three to four years, like a Reserva wine. 

Maldonado – the fourth generation of butcher 

in his family – has been honing his craft for the 

past 20 years. His flagship product is Albarragena 

jamón which comes with its own DNA certificate 

as proof of authenticity. It costs in the region of 

$1,955 a leg, making it the world’s most expensive 

ham. “The pigs are handpicked,” he says. “They 

are from the ancient Lampiña breed and eat up 

to 100kg of acorns each montanera. They are fullgrown 

adults when they are killed, which has a 

massive impact on the flavor. There’s great acidity 

in the fat, and in the mouth it’s sensational.” 

In the tasting room Maldonado has put out 

some specialties for us to try, although he’s under 

strict instructions from Tristancho not to give us 

any jamón. (Ever the actor, our host seems to be re - 

Choice cuts: 

Aldebarán in Badajoz is 

the only restaurant in the 

region that serves Pais de 

Quercus’s jámon Ibérico 

de bellota; Maldonado’s 

cathedral of ham (right) 


THE FACT SHEET 

Where to stay 

Convento de la Parra 

The hippest hotel in the 

region is a converted convent 

offering pared-down 

rooms – whitewashed 

walls, stone floors, rustic 

furnishings – and plenty of 

nooks for quiet contemplation, 

whether you’re taking 

cocktails by the pool 

or curled up with a book 

by the fire. The restaurant 

is excellent, too. Doubles 

from $160. 

Calle Santa María 16, 

La Parra, Badajoz. 

Tel: +34 924 682 619. 

www.laparra.net 

Conde de la Corte 

In the heart of the medieval 

town of Zafra, just 30 

minutes drive from Badajoz, 

this renovated palace 

recalls old Spain with 

its marble tiled patio and 

pretty, painted antiques. 

It also pays homage to 

the region’s fighting bull 

breeders with a permanent 

photo exhibition. The lush 

gardens are a delightful 

spot for a plate of ham and 

a glass of wine. Doubles 

from $145. 

Plaza de Pilar Redondo 2, 

Zafra. 

Tel: +34 924 563 311. 

www.condedelacorte.com 

Where to eat 

Restaurante Aldebarán 

Badajoz’s top table is a formal 

space laden with all 

the accoutrements of fine 

dining: chandeliers, white 

linen tablecloths, crystal 

glasses, silverware and fine 

china. Chef Fernando Bárcena 

specializes in sumptuous 

meat dishes such as 

wild mushroom and goat 

kid liver ravioli, and pork 

cheeks stewed in red wine 

PATA NEGRA 

with truffles. Tasting menu, 

$65. 

Avenida de Elvas, Badajoz. 

Tel: +34 924 276 837. 

www.restaurante- 

aldebaran.com 

Pampano 

Piedad Fernández Paredes’ 

sophisticated tapas bar 

specializes in “emotional 

wine pairings” – matching 

wines to your mood, 

not just your food. With 

more than 50 bottles available 

by the glass she has 

something for every occasion, 

with pickled partridge 

and Iberian ham croquettes 

among the small plates. 

Calle Reina Victoria 12, 

Almendralejo. 

Tel: +34 924 670 757. 

Where to shop 

Maldonado 

Manuel Maldonado sells 

his complete product portfolio 

from a pint-size store 

at the front of his curing 

facility. Highlights include 

a sensational salchichón 

Ibérico (a simple cured 

sausage of pork, salt and 

pepper), lomo Ibérico 

doblado (folded pork loin 

with or without paprika) 

and a range of exquisite 

jamóns. 

Calle Concha Espina, 

Alburquerque. 

Tel: +34 924 401 190. 

www.ibericosmaldonado.com 

País de Quercus 

From Ibérico pork to sausages, 

hams and pâtés, 

lamb, kid and beef, and 

Extremaduran goat or 

sheep cheese, País de 

Quercus’s online store is a 

digital farmers market. It 

even does gift boxes and 

hampers. 

www.paisdequercus.com 

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lishing our suspense.) Instead we nibble on lardolike 

papada, spicy chorizo, salchichón – the most 

basic of pork sausages seasoned with nothing more 

than salt and pepper – and a rich morcilla (blood 

sausage) accompanied by Deutz champagne. 

ALDEBARÁN IN BADAJOZ is the only restaurant in the 

region that serves País de Quercus ham and occupies 

an unlikely spot on the outskirts of town 

at the end of a row of nondescript restaurants 

and fast-food joints. The Moulin Rouge-styled 

dining room’s pink-red walls, crystal chandeliers, 

starched white tablecloths, silver cutlery and fine 

china are, however, a suitably theatrical setting 

for such a hotly awaited entrance. 

When two large porcelain plates of gossamerthin 

País de Quercus jamón are brought out and 

placed on the table, our little gathering – Tristancho 

and his friend Violeta; a local sommelier, 

Piedad, and her boyfriend Antonio, the owner of 

a gin-and-tonic bar in Badajoz – falls silent. The 

ham is the same color as the walls of the dining 

room, streaked with silvery fat, perfectly ob long, 

and so intensely flavored and sweet that it catches 

in your throat the same way something spicy does. 

Rest a strip of it on the top of your hand and the 

fat really does melt into something like a herby 

oil. There’s also lomo Ibérico doblado (pork tenderloin 

rubbed with smoked paprika and folded 

over a strip of pork fat – manteca – that gives it a 

buttery texture) and a flowery local cava, Via de la 

Plata, to wash it down. 

And so it goes: arroz caldoso (rice soup) infused 

with pork stock and magro Ibérico (lean pork 

meat) and chopped, raw green peppers; cochinillo 

(slow-roasted suckling pig) on a bed of candied 

lemon peel and a lime sauce vierge. Piedad 

chooses a robust, local Tempranillo from the Ribera 

del Guadiana packed with blackcurrant and 

licorice. Around the table everyone smiles con - 

tentedly: “a miracle of nature” indeed. � 

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THE WEEKENDER 

PALERMO 

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From 

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* Price from airports in Scandinavia and Finland. Taxes and fees apply, from €60. 


BRUSH UP 

ON BASEL 

BASEL, SWITZERLAND The city’s image as a cultural 

metropolis hangs on more than its showpiece art event 

Words and photographs by JÖRGEN ULVSGÄRD 

Historically, Basel 

has languished in 

the shadow of big 

brother Zurich, 

just an hour southeast. That 

might have been why the city 

overwhelmingly voted yes in 

1967 to letting the mayor buy 

two Picasso paintings with 

public funds – a gesture that so 

touched the artist that he gave 

the city three other pieces. 

That in turn led Basel’s many 

well-heeled residents to start 

collecting art like never before 

which, via donations, laid the 

foundations for Basel’s wealth 

of art. 

In 1970, the city’s growing 

collection of galleries joined 

THE WEEKENDER 

forces to create Art Basel, 

which now attracts 60,000 

visitors and more than 300 

of the world’s top galleries. 

Tellingly, Art Basel’s Miami 

spin-off immediately became 

the most important art fair in 

America and in 2013 it will 

debut in Hong Kong (May 23- 

26). However the original, held 

every June, is still the biggest 

and best. 

Not surprisingly, art governs 

city life and has manifested 

itself in, among other things, 

a taste for cutting-edge 

architecture. Herzog & De 

Meuron, arguably the world’s 

most exciting architects with 

Beijing’s National Stadium 

SCANORAMA DECEMBER 2012/JANUARY 99 

�

THE WEEKENDER 

(aka the Bird’s Nest) among its 

works, is headquartered here. 

Many of its ideas have been 

realized around the city, the 

latest of which will be unveiled 

this April when its mammoth 

makeover of the Messe Basel 

exhibition site, which is as big 

as a suburb, is completed in 

time for the 2013 Baselworld 

watch and jewelry fair. 

The art tour 

Each year over six days in 

the second week of June the 

population of Basel grows by 

25%. The world’s largest art 

fair runs June 11–16, with the 

fi rst two days of Art Basel 2013 

set aside for VIPs. Book your 

fl ights and hotel rooms early. 

www.basel.artbasel.com 

The city’s most prestigious art 

museum, Fondation Beyeler, 

sits on the outskirts of town – 

not unlike Denmark’s Louisiana 

Museum – in a pastoral idyll 

populated by grazing cattle. 

This is precisely what the 

owners Ernst and Hildy Beyeler 

had in mind when they commissioned 

Renzo Piano, the 

Pritzker Prize-winning Italian 

architect, to build the museum 

in 1997. Natural light pours into 

this beautiful building through 

a glass ceiling. The new year 

sees a retrospective of the 

Swiss avant-gardist Ferdinand 

Hodler’s late works (January 

27-May 26). Admission: $25. 

Baselstrasse 101, Riehen. 

www.fondationbeyeler.ch 

One of Basel’s most important 

galleries, the Von Bartha 

Garage, owned by the family 

of the same name, stands right 

next door to a gas station 

at the streetcar stop Kannenfeldplatz 

in a former Saab 

workshop. Stefan von Bartha 

puts on fi ve major exhibitions 

of modern art here every year, 

most recently by Swedish 

conceptual artist Christian 

Andersson. “Lots of customers 

come in expecting to pay 

for a tank of gas. Instead they 

get a free art experience. It is 

important for Basel to have 

active galleries that can hold 

Museum Tinguely 

The tram in the old town 

their own internationally,” 

says Stefan, who rates Nicolas 

Krupp (Rosentalstrasse 28. 

www.nicolaskrupp.com) and 

Stampa (Spalenberg 2. www. 

stampa-galerie.ch) among the 

city’s other must-sees. 

Kannenfeldplatz 6. 

www.vonbartha.com 

The Museum Tinguely, 

designed by Switzerland’s 

own Mario Botta, stands on 

the banks of the Rhine. Jean 

Tinguely’s kinetic art sparks 

the imagination of children and 

adults alike – colorful works in 

which the artist communicates 

and interacts with the viewer, 

both seriously and ironically. 

“Art arises when machinery 

is set in motion,” Tinguely 

says, and wandering among 

his remarkable creations is to 

be fi lled with nostalgia for a 

time when machines oiled the 

wheels of progress. From the 

museum café you can watch 

swimmers being carried along 

by the strong currents of the 

Rhine, only to emerge a kilometer 

or so downstream which 

is a popular pastime in Basel. 

Admission: $15. 

Paul Sacher-Anlage 2. 

www.tinguely.ch 

Grand Hotel 

Les Trois Rois 

Once taken lightly, the comic is 

now recognized as an art form 

in its own right. The Cartoon 

Museum takes its subject – 

satirical art – deadly seriously, 

with an unrivaled collection 

ranging from caricatures to 

comic strips. 


St. Alban-Vorstadt 28. 

www.cartoonmuseum.ch 

Kunstmuseum Basel became � 


ROUND THE WORLD fr. €2949 

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THE WEEKENDER 

the world’s first public art 

museum in 1661 when the city 

bought a large Renaissance 

collection from local attorney 

Basilius Amerbach. The 20thcentury 

is also well represented, 

from works by Picasso, 

Braque and Léger to expressionism 

and American art since 

the 1950s. Admission: $15. 

St. Alban-Graben 16. 

www.kunstmuseumbasel.ch 

The Museum für Gegenwartskunst 

is where the 

Kunstmuseum Basel keeps its 

21st-century pieces. When the 

Museum of Contemporary Art 

opened in 1980 it was the first 

in Europe dedicated exclusively 

to art from the 1960s onward, 

with paintings, sculptures, 

installations and video art by, 

among others, Joseph Beuys, 

Bruce Nauman, Rosemarie 

Trockel and Jeff Wall. 


St. Alban-Rheinweg 60. 

www.kunstmuseumbasel.ch 

The architectural tour 

The old Sulzer-Burckhardt 

engineering works at Gundeldinger 

Feld is a must for fans 

of industrial design. Thanks 

to architecture firm Baubüro 

Insitu, factory buildings from 

the 1930s today house everything 

from cocktail bar-cumbistro 

Eo Ipso (www.eoipso. 

ch) and restaurant Blindekuh 

(www.blindekuh.ch) where 

you can eat in pitch darkness 

to microbrewery Unser Bier 

(www.unserbier.ch) and indoor 

climbing at Kletterhalle K7 

(www.kletterhalle7.ch). 

Jump off the Aesch streetcar 

at Ruchfeldstrasse for Schaulager, 

designed by Herzog & De 

Meuron. This is where pieces 

in the Emanuel Hoffmann 

Foundation collection are kept 

when they are not on show 

at Konstmuseum Basel or the 

Museum für Gegenwartskunst. 

The building looks like a gravel 

box that’s been kicked over, 

with the flaps pulled in and two 

Fondation Beyeler Kunstmuseum Basel 

giant screens built into them to 

display works in progress. 

Ruchfeldstrasse 19, 

Münchenstein . 

www.schaulager.org 

Where to eat 

Ever since the owners of Acqua 

Osteria brought the old power 

station at Binningerstrasse 

back to life eight years ago, this 

enormous dining room with 

exposed pipework, concrete 

walls and fairy light chandeliers 

has been a city favorite. 

Binningerstrasse 14. 

Tel: +41 61 564 66 66. 

www.acquabasilea.ch 

On the right bank of the 

Rhine, facing the Old Town, 

Krafft Basel is perfect for 

dining alfresco. This classic 

hotel – Hermann Hesse wrote 

Steppenwolf here – has become 

a local favorite, with the head 

chef, Roland Grünvogel, changing 

the lunch menu daily. 

Rheingasse 19. 

Tel: +41 61 690 91 30. 

www.krafftbasel.ch 

Where to stay 

One of the best hotels is the 

classic Grand Hotel Les Trois 

Rois (rooms from $535; Blumenrain 

8; Tel: +41 61 260 50 

50. www.lestroisrois.com). For 

artist/designer-inspired rooms, 

and an in-house theater, there’s 

Hotel der Teufelhof (rooms 

from $165; Leonhardsgraben 

47-49; Tel: +41 61 261 10 10. 

www.teufelhof.ch). If you’re in 

town on business, or just want 

something straightforward and 

central, Hotel Victoria (rooms 

from $290; Centralbahnplatz 3: 

Tel: +41 61 270 70 70. 

www.balehotels.ch) is a smart 

choice. 

� GO TO BASEL SAS takes you to 

Zürich. Book your trip at www.flysas. 

com or use your EuroBonus points. 

Round-trips to Basel start at 30,000 

points from airports in Scandinavia 

and Finland. Taxes and fees apply, 

from €56 


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1 

Ring in 750/- white gold with 1 brilliant 1.51 ct TW G/VS and 

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ON THE PURCHASE OF DIAMONDS FROM NON-CONFLICT AREAS. 

Foto: Kim Holthe

White open space 

TERRACE, CANADA, 1.30PM: “I was in British Columbia with 

professional freeskiers Per Jonsson (pictured) and Asbjørn 

Eggebø Næss when our helicopter pilot suggested a few days 

at the Anderson Cabin, a small cottage without electricity or 

running water near Mount Remo. The skiing was incredible, 

with nobody or nothing for miles around. It was the ultimate 

wilderness adventure.” 

NICKLAS BLOM, CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHER 

104 DECEMBER 2012/JANUARY APRIL 2012 2013 SCANORAMA

WISH YOU WERE HERE 

SCANORAMA DECEMBER APRIL 2012 2012/JANUARY 2013 105

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FROM GENERATION TO GENERATION 

A signet ring showing the family coat of arms is worn with pride by generation 

after generation. Jovenia Juveler has many years of experience making 

signet rings; it is a workmenship that demands high precision and skills. 

Engraving can be performed in all gemstones, even in diamonds. The most 

common stone is a stratyfied onyx in different shades of colours. Jovenia 

Juveler has a large stock of various rings. 

JOVENIA JUVELER – Mäster Samuelsgatan 2 – 111 44 Stockholm – Sweden 

Tel. +46 08-611 25 66 – www.joveniajuveler.se 

CHASE THE NORTHERN LIGHTS TONIGHT! 

Depending on the latest Aurora and Weather forecasts, we will drive 

you along the coast or all the way to the Finnish border until we find the 

magnificent Aurora. 

Departs every evening at 18:30 from Rica Ishavshotel (Tromsø) 

Price: NOK 950 pp. Duration five to seven hours. Period October 15th to 

March 31st. 

Book now: +47 928 09 057/ +47 922 07 901 

www.arcticguideservice.com 

TERJE RAKKE/NORDIC LIFE/WWW.VISITNORWAY.COM

VIDBYNÄS, CONFERENCE & HOTEL 

Vidbynäs Gård is a modern conference and meeting facility located in beautiful 

surroundings, just 35 minutes outside Stockholm. The facility offers both 

the mystics of the old buildings and the comfort and light of the new and rebuilt 

sections.We can comfortably host meetings with up to 140 participants 

in the largest meeting hall. 

Please let us know if you would like your next meeting or event to take place 

at Vidbynäs Gård. We can offer an inspiring environment and very good conditions 

for a successful meeting. 

VIDBYNÄS, CONFERENCE & HOTEL 

info@vidbynasgard.se · +46 (0)8 554 90 700 · www.vidbynasgard.se 

A WORLD OF BEER IN THE HEART OF COPENHAGEN 

Visit Carlsberg is a must-see attraction in Copenhagen. Enter the massive 

industrial site through the impressive Elephant Gate and explore Carlsberg’s 

authentic brewery and fascinating architecture dating back to 1847. 

Visit Carlsberg is open daily from 10-17 (closed on Mondays). Included in 

the entrance fee are two beers/soft drinks. 

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Challenge for 

excellence 

Westcon aspire to be an excellent partner for our clients. 

We are the preferred partner in the rig market and we work hard to 

keep it that way. We make complicated challenges look easy. 

We are looking for people that can see the broader picture and dig into 

new complicated challenges. Our rewards are as high as our demands. 

Bring your potential to life at Westcon! 

See more at 

westcon.no/ 

careers 

FOR THE SOUTHWEST 

REGION OF NORWAY 2012 

OKTAN��

Lutelandet facilitates both offshore 

decommisioning, windmill construction 

and has a dry dock for ships and rigs. 

By: Tore Friestad 

tore@magnetmedia.no 

Lutelandet is located on the western coast of 

Norway, just north of Bergen, with easy access 

for oil rigs and ships to and from the North Sea. 

This huge onshore area up to 1 400 000 m² is 

developed by Lutelandet Offshore (LLOF) with 

yard, harbour and Europe’s largest dry dock. 

– A perfect match 

Many of the oil and gas installations in the 

North Sea are reaching the end of their operating 

period and also the lifespan of which they 

were designed. Proposals for decommissioning 

them are being prepared by the operators, and 

connected to this a whole new industry is under 

establishment. 

«With the unique facilities at Lutelandet, our 

industrial site will be a perfect match for your 

oil and gas platform for decades to come, says 

CEO of LLOF», Tor Gjertsen. 

Logistic services on hand 

«We are near to our clients offshore projects, 

supporting oil and gas operators and suppliers in 

the oil and gas industry. LLOF can manage their 

onshore storage and integrated logistics services 

of various needs. Large areas are available for 

storage and inspection», Gjertsen explains. 

LLOF can offer third party inspection of critical 

materials, maintenance of equipment and can also 

provide project management and management 

of supply chain contracts and procurement. LLOF 

also cooperate with large international companies 

in order to provide the costumer with the best 

service available. 

Fulfills current and future market needs 

Lutelandet’s unique geographical location and 

infrastructure fulfills the demands of an offshore 

industrial site, both technically and environmentally, 

with the ability to meet both current 

and future market needs. 

«The need for IRM of existing and new vessels 

will always be present as long as wildcat drilling 

and other activities exist offshore. LLOF will win 

shares of this market», says Gjertsen. 

Future in the wind 

Wind energy turbines can be assembled onsite 

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT 

One of a kind 

With one foot in traditional offshore business and one in the future, Lutelandet Offshore focuses on 

decommissioning of oil and gas platforms, logistic services, inspection, repair and maintenance (IRM), 

and windmill construction and support. 

and shipped directly offshore to the North Sea 

with minimum transportation requirements. 

«With wind power set to be the focus of up and 

coming energy business in the North Sea – 

10 000 installations planned within the next 

decade – the time seems right to set up related 

industry covering services needed by the wind 

power players», says Gjertsen. 

Read more about Lutelandet 

Offshore at www.llof.no 

or contact CEO Tor Gjertsen: 

+47 934 46 604 or tor@llof.no.

Meeting complexity 

with quality 

Thanks to its cutting edge risk management expertise and international 

role in the oil and gas industry, Safetec is well equipped to face the future. 

By: Bjørnhild Vigerust 

bjornhild@magnetmedia.no 

Safetec has been delivering risk management 

services in the areas of safety, emergency 

preparedness and reliability since 1984 and 

is currently one of Norway’s largest service providers 

in these fields. Early in 2012 the company 

became part of ABS Group, a subsidiary of the 

leading classification society American Bureau 

of Shipping. One year after the takeover, Safetec’s 

CEO says the company has been strengthened 

as a result. 

“We have been able to draw upon a strong pool 

of expertise and to work across disciplines and 

geographical locations. This has improved our 

comprehensive approach to safety. Our international 

projects will also see an upswing with 

ABS’ presence on all continents,” says Jan Morten 

Ertsaas. 

Read more at: www.safetec.no and www.abs-group.com. 

Safetec’s solid expertise is essential to improve 

safety and avoid major accidents. 

“In order to meet the complex and large-scale 

challenges we are working on, we require cutting 

edge expertise and the ability to see all minor, 

underlying causes as part of a bigger picture 

before analyzing the situation as a whole – drawing 

conclusions and giving advice to our demanding 

clients. Our input helps our clients manage both 

technical and operational risk, and what we do 

have huge impact on project quality, cost and 

safety. This means quality and integrity is of the 

utmost importance,” says Ertsaas, who recently 

was named head of ABS Group’s offshore oil 

and gas solutions, giving Safetec an even more 

prominent role within the oil and gas industry. 

A safe choice 

BIKS is a provider of industrial safety courses to the oil and 

gas industry. “Qualified staff help create a safe working 

environment,” argues the general manager of BIKS. 

BIKS’ office in Bergen includes large training areas where course participants can put theory into practise. 

Read more and see a complete course overview at www.biks.no. 


By: Tore Friestad 

tore@magnetmedia.no 

“It is important to the oil industry that the 

operators on the rigs know what to do to 

maintain safety levels. Our experienced 

and competent course tutors have professional 

backgrounds in onshore and offshore 

industries along with solid expertise in health 

and safety,” explains general manager Bjørn 

Tore Vindenes at BIKS. 

A problem solver for the industry 

BIKS is a certified training company that 

meets normative industry standards and 

issues approved documentation for all its 

courses. The courses offered are based on the 

Norwegian Working Environment Act and 

adapted for the R-003N and R-005N standards. 

The courses offered include rigging, 

hydraulics, cranes and lifting. 

“Being able to use work equipment safely is 

mandatory, and we want to work closely with 

the parties in the industry and to stay one step 

ahead of the industry’s internal health and 

safety standards. BIKS aims to be a problem 

solver for the industry, addressing the needs 

of individual companies in terms of improving 

skills in the use of work equipment.”

A long life offshore has 

come to an end 

From cradle to grave – making use of our specialised knowledge during 

a long life: 

� Concept development, design and 3rd party verification of 

offshore structures 

� Advanced analyses and marine operation simulations 

� Risk based inspection planning (RBI) 

� Maintenance planning procedures (RCM) 

� Asset Integrity Management 

� Material and corrosion analyses 

� Inspection and specialised services, non-destructive testing (NDT) 

� Subsea monitoring of structures, pipelines and risers 

� NDT training and certification. 

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solving, and we need more talented staff to take on 

this work.” 

Hovem stresses that it is at least as important for 

DNV to retain its existing workforce as it is to 

attract new employees. The company is therefore 

continuously focused on maintaining its good 

working environment and to ensure that all employees 

enjoy working for DNV. 

“We are a team of knowledgeable people who work 

together to provide solid contributions to society 

and our clients by working across disciplines 

and through ensuring newly qualified and more 

experienced employees work together and help 

each other out. `I should also emphasize that we 

are a global enterprise with offices in 100 countries. 

This offers opportunities for gaining international 

experience from countries such as China, the US, 

Korea, Brazil and the UK,” says Hovem. DNV also 

offers a variety of social activities such as climbing, 

football, canoeing and golf as well as an art club and 

motoring club. 

Complex future 

She is in no doubt that DNV will still be needed in 

the future. 

“The world is becoming more and more complex, 

and we are noticing a growing demand for a neutral 

party to come in and carry out cross-disciplinary 

analyses. The oil and gas industry is operating under 

increasingly challenging conditions. That, combined 

with a zero tolerance for accidents and a demand for 

cost-effective operations, means there is no doubt 

that DNV will continue to have plenty of interesting 

projects to keep our juices flowing well into in the 

future,” says Hovem. 

DNV is a global provider of knowledge for managing 

risk. More than 10,000 experts in 100 countries 

combine risk methodology, technology expertise, 

independence and in-depth industry knowledge 

to enable our customers to safely and responsibly 

improve their business performance. 

Customers in the maritime, oil & gas and energy 

sectors rely on our independent assessment and 

non-compromising standards of quality, safety 

and integrity to build the trust and confidence of 

their stakeholders. Our services to these industries 

include innovative and world-leading classification, 

verification, testing and advisory services. DNV is 

also one of the world’s largest certification bodies, 

servicing a wide range of industries. 

www.dnv.com

Explore the many 

colours and change 

the look of your 

piece of Changeling. 

Elegant, feminine, 

powerful, sensual, 

sophisticated, casual, 

delicate or fun 

...be creative 

DENMARK 

SJÆLLAND: Frederikssund: Carlo Christiansen Herlev: Aage Holmer Holbæk: Christinas Guld og Sølv 

København K: Stenstrup Juveler København S: Anni Jensen Lyngby: Boutique d’Or Roskilde: Andersen & Enig 

FYN: Ringe: Bona Dea, 

JYLLAND: Haderslev: Poul Normann Horsens: Mørup Ure-Guld Kolding: Lykkes Guld & Sølv, 

Randers: Randers Storcenter: Mørup Ure-Guld 

SWEDEN 

Alingsås: Smycka Guld i Alingsås Borås: Smycka Guld Gnosjö: Ur & Guld 

Göteborg: Guldsmedsmästarn / Wranges Juvelerare Halmstad: Guld & Silversmide Höganäs: Guld-shop 

Karlstad: Guld & Silverdesign Malmö: Prahls Guld & Juveler Skellefteå: City Guld, 

Uppsala: Smyckeboden Ystad: Reutners Guld 

NORWAY 

BODØ:Opal Gullsmedforretning DRAMMEN:Gullsmed Horgen Flisa: Gullsmed Janne-Mari A/S 

GJØVIK:Gjøvik Gullsmedforretning Grimstad: Joh. Gundersen AS Hamar: J. Sten Bøe OSLO, :Gullmesteren 

Tromsø: Pyramiden Gull og Ur Trondheim: G. Pedersen TØNSBERG:Gullsmed Ragnar Rønning 

Ålesund: John Stamnæss A/S / J.S. Refnæs A/S 

www.perborupdesign.dk

The Norwegian Oil Industry Association 

(OLF) has changed its name to the 

Norwegian Oil and Gas Association 

(Norwegian Oil and Gas). 

The Egyptians impressed with 

fantastic tombs for their dead kings. 

Read more at www.norskoljeoggass.no/en 

Oil and gas have made Norway a prosperous country. Ever 

since the fi rst discoveries in the 1960s, value creation by the 

oil industry has benefi ted all Norwegians. Such resource 

management has no equal on a global scale. We will also

continue to benefi t from our oil and gas. The biggest challenges 

still lie ahead. So a great need exists for more good brains and 

clever hands. Brains and hands which will help to shape our 

society in the decades to come. 

Illustrasjon: Statoil 

VI BYGGER NORGE FRA BUNNEN

Materials Management 

made easy 

Discover M 2 . A new and intuitive software for the oil 

and gas industry. Prevent loss and unnecessary costs 

with continuous tracking through the supply chain. 

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DESTINO

Special advertising supplement 

��Nordic information technology / 

Innovation through technology 

» �� 

Bring Supply Services (BSCM) is located in 

Helsingborg in Sweden and handle logistics and 

supply chain management on behalf of customers 

worldwide. Bring Supply Services is responsible 

for the logistics of food deliveries to a leading 

furniture chain globally. 

“The management of the furniture chain was a 

little anxious as to how the roll-out of the new 

system was to be implemented in their organi- 

Turning your knowledge into value 

Merit is a company that specializes in improving 

operational value making processes. The company 

has been a great success from the beginning 

and has grown from just a group of business 

consultants to more than 300 dedicated software 

Merit Consulting AS: 

» 300 employees in 7 countries 

» Revenue 2012 NOK 350 million 

« Offers business solutions from 

Infor M3 and Jeeves 

» Offers software: Merit Application Suite 

» Business consultancy expertise in the 

following fields: Manufacturing, 

distribution and retail, food and 

beverage, equipment and service 

management 

zation. But as it turned out, their worries were 

unnecessary. The implementation process was 

painless, much thanks to the simple interface and 

usability the Merit software represents,” explains 

Acting ICT Manager Flemming Schultz at Bring 

Supply Services. 

Most of the stores globally order their food 

products via the Merit Sales Portal and the feedback 

has been overwhelmingly positive. 

�� 

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developers and highly competent consultants in 

under a decade. 

“Our business idea is simple. We make businesses 

more efficient by offering business consulting and 

software that makes complex business processes 

simple for the end-user. By having the right 

knowledge and intelligent systems work for you, 

there is a lot of potential for value growth,” says 

Merit managing director 

Erik Outzen. 

Advanced operations and 

complex supply chain 

management characterizes 

henrik@bedriftprofilen.no – www.bedriftprofilen.no 

Helping Bring help their clients. A simple user interface 

and functionality is key, says Flemming Schultz (to the 

right) and Anna Öhman at Bring Supply Services. 

Trouble-free 

implementation 

�� 

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Managing director Erik 

Outzen at Merit Consulting. 

Another great feature with the Merit Sales Portal 

system is the fact that the portal can be 

continuously developed in accordance with client 

needs. 

“If the client requests certain functionality in 

order to improve their management control, it 

is easy to implement these changes in cooperation 

with Merit. This gives us a great competitive 

advantage,” concludes Schultz. 

the following industries that Merit work in: 

manufacturing, distribution and retail, food and 

beverage, equipment and service management. 

“Our unique selling points are simpler, better and 

quicker. Complex software or hardware systems 

are made simpler by our software systems. This is 

how our collective expertise can improve business 

operations and make our clients better and more 

competitive,” Outzen states. 

Compared to the large software houses, Merit has 

a clear advantage. 

“We develop our own software bases on very 

specific needs in certain business fields. Then we 

can adapt the software to the specific needs of the 

business. This makes our systems very efficient 

and in turn valuable for our clients,” says Outzen. 

��www.meritglobe.com

» �� 

Reference projects: 

» Crisis, restructuring and growth – a 

study of local businesses in the region of 

Sørlandet, in cooperation with NHH 

(Norwegian School of Economics). Financed 

by Skipskredittfondet (a private fund) and 

the county municipalities of Vest-Agder 

and Aust-Agder, and the municipality of 

Kristiansand. 

» Norges Bank’s regional network for 

monitoring economic cycles 

– Agderforskning has been a supplier of 

financial data and analysis to Norges Bank 

(Norway’s central bank) for 10 years. 

» A life I didn’t choose – studies the young 

disabled in 4 municipalities. Client: NAV/ 

FARVE (governmental support to research 

programs). 

» Children’s living conditions – a study 

of users and non-users of publically funded 

arts programs offered in the following cities: 

Oslo, Bergen, Trondheim, Stavanger and 

Kristiansand. Client: KS. 

» Repurchase – an analysis of the factors 

that influence the degree of repurchase. 

Client: Visit Sørlandet and Arena USUS. 

» Scenarios 2029 – future visions for the 

regions of Bergen, Haugesund, Stavanger 

and Kristiansand. Client: SR Bank. 

“The world is becoming increasingly complex and 

the importance of a well-designed and transparent 

decision-making process is decisive in order to 

maneuver through today’s and tomorrow’s 

challenges. Agderforskning works closely with 

our clients. Our research based methods and 

knowledge, combined with our clients’ experience, 

results in solutions that meet the consumers’ 

objectives,” states C.E.O. Kristin Wallevik. 

Agderforskning is a research facility working 

within the fields of creative industries, welfare 

and innovation. 

�� 

“Culture and commerce involve value creation, 

competition and regional development,” explains 

team leader Kirsti Hjemdahl. 

The Creative Industries team focuses in particular 

on research within tourism, arts and culture, and 

is an important stakeholder and supplier to the 

local cluster network, Arena USUS. 

“We research interaction and innovation processes 

in relation to the cultural sector in close cooperation 

with commercial stakeholders. Our purpose is 

to contribute to increasing the level of innovation 

and competitiveness through research-based 

knowledge,” continues Hjemdahl. 

�� 

“We work with what matters the most in life. We 

deliver relevant knowledge to decisions-makers 


Finding the 

right solutions 

together 

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within the private and public sector that affects 

people’s welfare and living conditions,” says 

Eugene Guribye, team leader for welfare research 

at Agderforskning. 

“In fields related to children’s living conditions, 

the young and disabled, social equality, migration, 

employment and exclusion, we have a solid and 

unique expertise. We have conducted numerous 

significant studies within these areas, both 

regionally and nationally,” he adds. 

�� 

“Innovation is important in order to meet future 

challenges. Agderforskning assists companies and 

public organizations with improving their future 

products, services and processes,” states team 

leader Roger Normann. 

Agderforskning delivers decision-oriented analysis 

and recommendations to public authorities and 

private stakeholders that help shape the framework 

for improving the growth and development 

potential for local businesses. In this role, 

Agderforskning has accumulated substantial 

research-based knowledge within the areas of 

innovation management, innovation practice and 

regional innovation. 

��www.agderforskning.no

OXYGEN.NO 


TACTICAL 

OIL SPILL 

MANAGEMENT 

WHEN AN OIL SPILL HAPPENS, 

TIME IS OF THE ESSENCE. 

APTOMAR’S SECURUS SYSTEM WILL 

ENSURE EARLY DETECTION AND THE 

MEANS TO COMBAT HIGHER VOLUME 

OF OIL IN A SHORTER PERIOD OF TIME 

AT A LOWER COST. 

SECurus provides you with: 

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» �� 

”While the bulk of our loan volume is related to 

the offshore oil and gas sector, supporting 

Norwegian exporters of climate technologies is an 

important part of our objective. Norwegian companies 

compete in a growing international market, 

where global investments in renewable energy 

increased sixfold from 2004 to 2011, reaching 

257 billion US dollars,” says Ivar Slengesol, EVP 

About Export Credit Norway: 

» Founded on June 25, 2012. 

» Wholly owned by the Norwegian 

government represented by the Ministry 

of Trade and Industry. 

» Will administer a loan portfolio of 

approximately 30 billion NOK by year end 

2012, expected to rise to 55–60 billion 

during 2013. 

» Specialises in long-term loans with typical 

repayment terms of up to 18 years 

to customers of Norwegian exporters. 

» All loans must be secured by guarantee(s) 

from The Norwegian Guarantee Institute 

for Export Credits (GIEK) and/or 

acceptable bank(s). 


”Export Credit Norway offers competitive export financing to promote exports from Norway. 

We help Norwegian exporters to succeed abroad,” says Ivar Slengesol, EVP Director of 

Lending – Industry and Renewable energy at Export Credit Norway. 

Helping Norwegian 

exporters succeed 

abroad 

�� 

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Director of Lending – Industry and Renewable 

Energy at Export Credit Norway. 

�� 

A limited liability company wholly owned and 

funded by the Norwegian government, Export 

Credit Norway has been operational since July, 

taking over the export financing services formerly 

run by Eksportfinans ASA. In a volatile financial 

market, the long-term loans provided by Export 

Credit Norway are becoming increasingly sougth 

after, which is reflected in record-level new 

disbursements. 

”New global regulations are forcing commercial 

banks to cut back on their long-term lending, 

and loans with repayment periods beyond five to 

seven years are becoming a scarce resource. This 

creates higher demand for export financing. We 

have seen the outstanding loan balance more than 

triple since the 2008 financial crisis,” Slengesol 

points out. 

�� 

In 2011, renewable energy accounted for nearly 

half of all new power generation capacity added 

worldwide. In 2004, renewables’ share was 10 

percent. While investment levels are increasing, 

the cost of energy is plummeting. 

“This is a positive trend in a climate perspective, 

while offering new global business opportunities. 

In a very short time, new renewable energy such 

as solar energy and wind power has gone from 

alternative to mainstream,” Slengesol states. 

�� 

The projects and companies within this sector that 

have made use of the Norwegian export financing 

scheme include solar power plants in the Czech 

Republic, hydropower projects in Turkey and 

Indonesia as well as an offshore wind farm in 

Belgium. 

”Our owner, the Norwegian government, has 

asked Export Credit Norway to actively contribute 

to realizing projects developing new technology. 

Supporting small and medium-sized businesses 

is another priority area, and many Norwegian 

exporters of climate technologies fall within this 

category. In today’s market, small and medium 

enterprises find it challenging to obtain sufficient 

financing from banks, making our role an 

increasingly important one,” Ivar Slengesol 

concludes. 

��www.exportcredit.no


Ensure your Ballast water is 

always free from unwanted 

organisms. 

Without spacious, ineffective filter systems 

Without active, corrosive chemical substances 

Avoid transferring invasive marine species into new environments via your ballast water. 

KBAL, Knutsen’s groundbreaking ballast water treatment system is likely the most efficient 

system on the market, and the first in the world not to use either filters or chemicals. 

The DNV Type Approved KBAL system is easy to install, easy to operate, and easy to maintain. 

Maritime technology for the future 

........................................................................... 

Contact Knutsen Technology for more information on the KBAL system 

Telephone: (+47) 41 85 78 79 E-mail: knutsen.technology@knutsenoas.com

» �� 

Fjellstrand AS: 

» Fjellstrand develops, markets and 

constructs advanced high-performance 

vessels in aluminum. 

» They were established in 1928 and 

currently have 75 employees. 

» Located at Omastrand in the Hardangerfjord, 

at the west coast of Norway. 

» Owned by Cinus AS and Hans Martin 

Gravdal. 

» A new range of products includes offshore 

vessels for survey, ROV/Construction and 

supply (PSV). 


A complete marine partner 

�� 

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The modern shipyard is located in idyllic 

surroundings at Omastrand, at the west coast of 

Norway, and has a long history of building high 

quality vessels. Today, the company is more 

innovative than ever. 

�� 

The fast growing offshore wind market has 

increased the demand for high-performance 

support vessels that are able to operate in extreme 

sea conditions in a safe way. 

“Fjellstrand has both developed and designed 

the revolutionary concept of the “WindServer”. In 

regards to transportation of technicians and components 

to the windmills, it introduces a new level 

within sea-keeping performance and transport 

efficiency,” claims Olav Kjetil Opheim, Project 

Development Manager for the WindServer. 

In 2011, the WindServer was announced as one 

of 13 shortlisted concepts (out of 450 entries) of 

the Carbon Trust competition. This achievement 

helped to secure an order for six WindServer 

vessels. 

“We are very pleased about the contract and it’s 

a significant step forward for Fjellstrand as we are 

pursuing new markets within renewable energy,” 

he adds. 

The vessels will be equipped with ballasting 

systems to shift between rough weather mode and 

a lightweight transit mode. This, in combination 

with an integrated stabilising foil, ensures a robust 

hull with low maintenance costs. 

“The foil has no moving parts, so by keeping the 

number of complex installations to a minimum, 

you hold both the investment and maintenance 

costs to a minimum,” Opheim explains. 

�� 

Fjellstrand is also introducing a battery driven 

ferry to the Norwegian market. The eco-ferries 

may have a radical effect on reducing the emission 

of NOx, which is both a health threat and causes 

acid rain and CO 2 , which contributes to global 

warming. 

“Domestic sea transport and fishing is behind 

39 percent of all emission of NOx in Norway, and 

ferries alone accounts for 9 percent of the sea 

related emissions. By using eco-ferries on the 

69 routes that we have found viable for this solution, 

the emission can be reduced by a staggering 

50 percent,” says Edmund Tolo, Project Development 

Manager for the eco-ferry. 

The eco-ferries are made of aluminum, and are 

powered by batteries, charged from on-shore 

hydropower while loading/unloading. 

“Fjellstrand is already taking part in a public 

tender, and we plan to launch our first eco-ferry 

at the end of 2014. We are confident that our 

eco-ferry has a huge potential in both the 

Norwegian and the international market, as 

solving our environmental challenges is more 

important than ever,” he adds. 

�� 

Fjellstrand also manufactures vessels from other 

designs, and recently signed a contract with Siem 

Offshore Rederi AS for the construction of an 

Infield Support Vessel (ISV). Ulstein Design and 

Solution AS is behind the design. 

“The ISV will be used in the renewable energy 

and the oil and gas market, for both installation 

and maintenance. Together with the production of 

two large offshore vessels and the six WindServers, 

Fjellstrand is secured high activity until 2014,” 

says Olav Bru, Market & Development Manager. 

��www.fjellstrand.no


» �� 

”We provide world leading software tools which together support the 

entire lifespan of a company’s design process – from initial design, 

analysis and design verification, through prototyping, manufacturing, 

testing and documentation to life cycling, controlling and revisions,” 

states chairman of CCS Group, Lars Kvendbø. 

�� 

From head office in Norway, CCS Group has provided solutions for a wide 

variety of customers since 1988. Today, the company has offices and partners 

all over Scandinavia, and its 50 employees possess a high level of technical 

competence. 

”Our engineers have expert knowledge within their respective fields, 

enabling them to function as technical advisors during the process. Many of 

them are also part-owners, which means they are willing to walk that extra 

mile in order to support our customers in the best possible way,” Kvendbø 

points out. 

The CCS Group has close to 1000 customers, ranging from major global 

corporations to small one-person businesses, electromechanics being their 

common feature. Thus, the software 

systems have supported design processes 

of anything from office chairs to major 

subsea installations. 

Simply Powerful. Powerfully Simple. TM 


Vital solutions throughout 

the design process 

�� 

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“CCS Group stays up-to-date at all times 

and always secures our customers the 

best complete solutions for their needs,” 

says chairman Lars Kvendbø. 

Design & Manufacturing IT-solutions for 

electromechanical industry since 1988. 

�� 

The four different IT solutions in the CCS portfolio complement each other 

in order to cover the entire design process: 

» Pro-M. Self-developed software covering production and MPS. 

» SolidWorks. 3D software tools for design, simulate, publish, and 

data management from Dassault Systems (US). 

» E³.series. Electro/Hydraulic ECAE software from ZukenE3 (Germany). 

» GibbsCAM. Production/CAM software from Cimatron (US). 

”We make sure the software from one or more of these suppliers are fully 

integrated with our customers’ IT systems and infrastructure. All the 

solutions are easily managed, and don’t require dedicated operators, although 

some basic training is necessary. We provide this, as well as upgrades and 

certifications, making sure CCS Group stays up-to-date at all times and 

always secures our customers the best complete solutions for their needs,” 

Lars Kvendbø concludes. 

��www.ccsgroup.net

THIRD PARTY HIL TESTING 

�� 


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Safe software – safe operations 

Marine Cybernetics is an Independent 

Verification & Validation organization with 

headquarters in Trondheim, Norway. The 

company utilizes a simulator based test 

technology, known as Hardware-In-the-Loop 

(HIL) testing to the offshore and maritime 

industry in cooperation with major 

industry partners. Modern vessels have 

advanced computer systems for dynamic 

positioning, power generation and distribution, 

lifting and towing operations. It is 

well known that software problems lead 

to delays as well as compromise safety. 

While the test and verification regime for 

structures and machinery systems is well 

established, most of the computer systems 

on today’s vessels are put into operation 

without sufficient independent testing and 

verification. HIL testing is a well proven test 

methodology from automotive, avionics, 

space, power electronics, robotics, and 

nuclear industries, and is now also gaining 

recognition in the offshore industries. HIL 

testing facilitates systematic testing of 

control system design philosophy, functionality, 

performance, and failure handling 

capability, both in normal and off-design 

operating conditions. This is conducted 

in a virtual test-bed where there is no risk 

to man, vessel, or equipment. For a newbuild, 

independent HIL testing will identify 

software errors before the vessel is put into 

operation, and will also shorten commissioning 

time. For a vessel in operation, HIL 

testing can be used to assess software upgrades 

before they are taken into use, and 

used in troubleshooting to eliminate known 

issues on the rig. Our main goal is to help 

assure our customer’s success in building, 

maintaining and operating their assets. We 

achieve this by keeping an overarching focus 

on maximizing the Customer Value of our 

software testing services. At the core of 

customer value lies the Integrity and responsibility 

inherent in our third party role and 

a continuous focus on delivering the right 

quality in our products and services. The 

right quality is what our customer needs to 

be the leader in their industry. As we are a 

young, vibrant and dynamic company with 

an international background we have the 

tools to succeed! 

www.marinecyb.com


» �� 

When quality 

matters 

�� 

�� 

�� 

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Active Business Solutions is a Norwegian-Danish 

company that provides project management, 

consulting, implementation and development 

services in Microsoft Dynamics NAV. The company 

was formed in 2003 and are located in both 

Norway and Denmark. 

» Active Business 

Solutions has offices 

in both Norway 

and Denmark. 

» Active Business 

Solutions helps 

your company to 

achieve results. 

Active Business Solutions AS 

» Established in 2003 

» Offices in Norway and Denmark 

» Fully owned by the employees 

» Wide range of customers from all over 

Scandinavia 

» Certified partner of Microsoft Dynamics 

NAV 

�� 

Dynamics NAV streamlines your business and 

powers it with the flexibility it needs to adapt to 

new opportunities and growth. Active Business 

Solutions is a certified partner of Microsoft 

Dynamics NAV and has throughout the years steadily 

increased their market share in Scandinavia. 

All of the company’s consultants in Scandinavia 

have worked with the business solution for at least 

ten years, and their focus on quality has not gone 

by unnoticed by the market. 

“Almost a decade of in-depth experience with the 

complete business solution, Microsoft Dynamics 

NAV, provides you with qualified advice and an 

active and dedicated business partner.” 

�� 

Microsoft Dynamics NAV is developed over several 

decades and is today one of the most reliable ERP 

systems avaible. More than a million licensed 

users are daily solving complicated challenges 

within a wide range of branches. 

“Microsoft Dynamics NAV includes everything 

you need to run and develop a successful business, 

no matter how specialised your business are, or 

where you are in the world,” says Messerschmidt. 

�� 

Today people needs easy access to documents and data. How? Active Business Solutions AS has several 

add-on solutions to Dynamics NAV which make it easy for your employers to get access to vital functions 

and GL Account data in Dynamics NAV. Here are two of them: 

�� 

Active Workflow is one of our most spectacular 

solutions which are registered and licensed at 

Microsoft. It is an integrated module that out of 

the box handles incoming Vendor invoices and 

Credit Memos. If the document not is in a PDF 

format from the vendor it will be transformed into 

PDF-files and then processed by the OCR system. 

Everything is configured in Microsoft Dynamics 

NAV and send to a WEB-interface for approval by 

the responsible persons. This solution also handles 

match to Purchase Orders. 

�� 

Active Budget & Reporting is also a registered and 

licensed module at Microsoft. The module expose 

user defined GL Account reports from Dynamics 

NAV to a Web based interface. This module has 

also functionality to handle the Budget functionality 

thru this interface. You don’t need to export/ 

import Excel sheets to your departments any 

more. The users simply enter the budget amounts 

directly to Navision thru the Web interface. 

Forskerforbundet 

Jesper Messerschmidt, 

Managing Director 

Active Business Solutions AS. 

The Norwegian Association of Researchers 

(Forskerforbundet) decided to centralise 

accounting for all local branches. They 

needed a system that could be integrated 

with their existing Dynamics NAV-solution, 

and handle central accounting, allowing 

for decentralized approval procedures with 

approxmitaly 500 approvers. After a 

comprehensive study of different 

solutions, they chose Active Workflow. 

“Active Business Solutions proved to have 

an excellent understanding of our needs. 

With the two modules, we avoided 

expensive third-party solutions,” says legal 

advisor in The Norwegian Association of 

Researchers, Birgitte Olafsen. 

��www.activebs.com

Label printers 

POS PC 

LEXIT GROUP NORWAY AS 

Trondheimsveien 64 

N-2040 Kløfta 

NORWAY 

Phone: +47 63 98 40 80 

Fax: +47 63 98 24 90 

www.lexit.no 

Vehicle Computers 

Panel PC Handheld Computers 

Rugged Tablets 


RFID 

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LABEL PRINTERS 

LABEL SOLUTIONS 

INDUSTRIAL PANEL PC 

HANDHELD COMPUTERS 

WAREHOUSE SOLUTIONS 

BAR CODE SCANNERS 

RETAIL SOLUTIONS 

TRACEABILITY 

LABELS 

LEXIT GROUP SWEDEN AB 

Konstruktionsvägen 1 

S-435 33 Mölnlycke 

SWEDEN 

Phone: +46 (0)31-734 41 00 

Fax: +46 (0)31-734 41 01 

www.lexit.se 

Labels 

LEXIT GROUP DENMARK ApS 

Hejrevang 7-9 

DK-3450 Allerød 

DENMARK 

Phone: +45 43 20 47 00 

Fax: +45 43 20 47 09 

www.lexitgroup.dk

D 

OOO 


» �� 

Everybody is talking about 

the weather but only A+D knows 

�� 

�� 

�� 

constructions and other offshore 

�� 

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�� 

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�� 

Specialized offshore vessels also install sophisticated 

electronic systems to monitor important 

parameters, such as wind, current, waves, vessel 

motions and many others in order to have exact 

data available. 

Also drilling in deeper waters will often bring 

challenges related to fluctuating and unpredictable 

currents. These may have a critical influence on 

both rig location and installation of expensive 

equipment. Current profilers with capability of 

measuring sea currents down to more than 1000 

meters water depth are available and can be tailor 

made to the installation. 

�� 

Instrumentation company A+D in Sandnes, 

Norway is a specialist company in building and 

installing such monitoring systems, typically called 

Experienced staff «flying out» on new missions. 

Typical FWS graphical display with real-time data and a 9 hour forecast giving a clear understanding of 

how the weather conditions develop. 

Environmental Monitoring Systems (EMS), 

Current Monitoring Systems (CMS), Vessel Motion 

Monitoring Systems (VMS) or Helideck Motion 

Monitoring Systems (HMS). These systems typically 

include a suite of sensors to measure these 

parameters, such as wind sensors, meteorological 

sensors, motion sensors, current profilers and wave 

sensors. This information can then be combined 

with data from the vessels motion sensors and other 

data in order to see the complete picture. 

The DADAS software refined by A+D over many 

years is simple and user-friendly and will give 

the user a quick and useful understanding of the 

situation. DADAS can always be tailor-made to the 

specific project in order to give the user exactly 

the data he requires for the project or work task. 

�� 

�� 

A new and exciting development now is the ability 

to combine measured real-time data with very 

accurate forecasts of the next hours and days. 

A+D is now cooperating with the specialist forecasting 

company ConWx Aps in order to develop 

what is called a Forecasting Weather Station or 

FCS. The FCS is a combination of a product and a 

service, where an online weather station is combined 

with smart forecasting technology in order to give 

the user both real-time data showing the present 

situation and a good prediction of the future. 

We all know by experience that a standard computer 

generated weather forecast typically has a 

limited accuracy. By transmitting real-time data 

to the forecasters, this accuracy can be improved 

significantly, giving demanding users a much 

higher quality forecast. This can in turn reduce 

the amount of downtime considerably. 

In applications where downtime costs money 

– this can be a highly profitable investment! 

Contact A+D for further details regarding 

these products. 

��www.automasjon.no

» �� 

�� 

�� 

�� 

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�� 

�� 

In the sixties and seventies, big explosions 

ruptured oil tankers and oil platforms, causing 

severe damage. The tragic events were often 

caused by explosive gas forming and igniting in 

the presence of oxygen. Just like CO2, the single 

most important ingredients for photosynthesis 

and human life, now dubbed the worst threat 

to human kind ever, oxygen is a two-faced gas. 

Essential for human survival, but turning highly 

dangerous in the presence of flammable gases. 

“We are market leaders in separation of gases. 

Our membrane technology, developed in the 

eighties, allows for separating air into nitrogen 

and oxygen. We don’t care much for the oxygen; 

it’s the nitrogen that we’re after”, explains Tom 

Cantero, managing director of Air Products. 

The membrane technology was developed in the 

early eighties on the back of the oil bonanza in 

the North Sea that required innovative safety 

solutions for curbing explosion risk. Air Products 

membrane-based nitrogen generators represented 

a major breakthrough in safety management. The 

success that followed eventually turned the 

company into a global market leader in gas 

processing systems, with a reputation for 

supplying high-quality products backed by 24/7 

support services. 

�� 

Technically, nitrogen is used to curb explosion risk 

in oil tanks and other environments were gases 

might mix to form highly potent combinations 

by replacing the oxygen. Nitrogen is produced 

on location in a generator that uses a membrane 

technology to separate oxygen and nitrogen from 

the air. 

Although its inception was formed out of the oil 

industry’s needs, most nitrogen generators have 

been delivered to vessels. On ships, nitrogen is 

used to prevent explosions during loading and 

unloading LNG. 

�� 

Air Products has an impressive market share of 

95 percentages in the LNG-ship market and just 

landed a landmark contract with Shell Prelude to 

equip the world’s first floating LNG facility with 

nitrogen generators. There has been an increased 

demand for natural gas following the worries 

over nuclear energy that arose after the tragic 


The nitrogen generator. 

Compact and lightweight. 

Managing Director Tom Cantero 

of Air Products AS. 

Nitrogen, a little-known lifesaver 

earthquake in Japan last year, and the market for 

Air Products’ systems is expected to surge in the 

coming years. 

“We are obviously quite proud to deliver our 

membrane to the world’s first floating LNG facility 

and see this as an appreciation of the quality of 

our products”, says Cantero. The LNG ship will be 

the world’s largest vessel, nearly 500 meters long 

and 74 meters wide. 

Moreover, the membrane technology have proven 

to be very successful in other areas as well, such 

as treatment of ballast water, conservation of food 

during transportation as well as conserving the 

vessels tank systems. 

Cantero and his colleagues have also been busy 

exploring new markets for its compact nitrogen 

generators, and found use for it in fruit transport. 

When transporting apples or bananas weeks across 

the world, controlling the ripening process has 

become important. Nitrogen delays the ripening 

process. At last, nitrogen adds a particular taste to 

the English lager or pint, used as propellant when 

beer is tapped. 

��www.airproducts.no

BY MARIE SERNEHOLT 

JOFAMA.COM/FASHION

Where’s the boss? 

Who is most important in your company? 

We built Oslofjord believing that everyone in your 

company plays an important role. As Norway’s 

largest conference center, Oslofjord houses up to 

6,000 people right on site and includes Norway’s 

largest concert hall, media center, conference 

facilities, exhibition space, and the natural beauty 

of the fjord beyond the marina. Here the gap 

between the visionaries and the employees who 

keep your company running virtually disappears. 

oslofjord.com 

Illustration: Berit Sømme 

www.sisteskrik.no

Explore Norway - 

Explore Norway - 

the the easy easy way! way! 

Book tours, hotels and 

Book tours, hotels and 

activities all in one package 

activities all in one package. 

Geiranger & Norway 

in a nutshell ® 

- A taste of world heritage! 

This tour takes you to the 

Geirangerfjord and Nærøyfjord, 

two of Norway’s most beautiful 

fjords that both feature on 

UNESCO’s World Heritage List. 

Other highlights include the 

Raumabanen railway and a beautiful 

sea voyage on the Hurtigruten 

coastal express. Relax and 

enjoy the experience, visit the Art 

Nouveau Centre in Ålesund, stroll 

along Bryggen wharf in Bergen 

or walk in the Flåmsdalen valley. 

Sognefjord 

in a nutshell 

- Huge fjord, huge experience! 

Combine a beautiful boat trip on 

the Sognefjord – Norway’s longest 

and deepest fjord – with a 

spectacular train ride on the Flåm 

Railway, a masterpiece of engineering! 

We recommend an overnight 

stay en route in order to 

fully experience the breathtaking 

scenery of the Sognefjord. 

FOR BOOKING AND MORE INFORMATION: 

Visit www.fjordtours.com or call Fjord Tours Customer phone: +47 815 68 222. 

Norway 

in a nutshell ® 

– Norway’s most popular round 

trip! 

This tour includes the spectacular 

Flåm Railway, the unbelievably 

narrow Nærøyfjord and the steep 

hairpin bends of Stalheimskleiva 

(May – September). Combine an 

overnight stay in Flåm with a fjord 

safari, kayaking or a walk along 

the Nærøyfjord. 

BERGEN 

GUDVANGEN 

STALHEIM 

VOSS 

ÅLESUND 

GEIRANGER 

BALESTRAND 

ULVIK 

FLÅM 

MYRDAL 

ÅNDALSNES 

Geiranger & Norway in a nutshell ® 

Sognefjord in a nutshell 

Norway in a nutshell ® 

DOMBÅS 

OSLO 

��

FlightGuide 

All you need to know about traveling with SAS, 

from route maps to frequent-fl yer programs 

High maintenance 

Every airplane undergoes a Maintenance Service 

Check every 15 days. It’s usually done during 

the night to ensure that the plane is ready 

for takeoff early the next morning. This Boeing 

737-600 Sindre Viking is undergoing a C 

check – a medium-scale checkup occurs every 

three years – during which technicians go over 

the fuselage, look for corrosion and check the 

directional control system. The C4 inspection is 

the most thorough and happens every 12 years. 

The plane is dismantled down to the smallest 

component. Only the exterior remains in place. 

Everything is checked (or double-checked, if 

it is a critical component) before the plane is 

put back together again. With many airplanes 

having around 367,000 individual parts, 

there’s plenty of work to be done. 

SCANORAMA MAY DECEMBER 2012 2012/JANUARY 2013 145

HEAD SAS TRAVEL GUIDE 

Before takeoff Up in the air 

Flexible check-in 

SAS off ers several alternatives to standing 

in line at the check-in desk: 

�� 

�� 

or the link sent with the check-in 

info text message. 

�� 

Mobile service 

If you check in via text message or the 

�� 

�� 

routes. To be able to use the Mobile 

Boarding Pass, you must have access 

to mobile Internet. 

To keep you informed about the status 

of your fl ight we'll send a text message 

with news of any cancellations or 

delays 22 hours before departure. 

Fast Track 

SAS Fast Track is the quickest way 

through security when fl ying Business 

or Economy Extra. As a Euro Bonus 

Gold member you can take along one 

guest, or family members, if they are 

traveling on a same-day ticket with 

SAS, Blue1, Widerøe or on any Star 

Alliance member carrier in Copenha- 

�� 

Airport lounges 

There are 14 SAS lounges at 10 diff erent 

airports in Europe and America. As part 

of Star Alliance, SAS EuroBonus Gold 

members have access to more than 800 

Star Alliance lounges. SAS also off ers 

Business passengers access to 50 contracted 

lounges around the world. SAS 

passengers traveling in Economy Extra 

and Economy can use the Business 

lounges at Copenhagen, Stockholm- 

�� 

for a $37 fee. 

SAS Smart Pass 

�� 

attach to your cell phone for identifi - 

cation at self-service machines, safety 

control and the gate. The SAS Smart 

�� 

vian Euro Bonus Gold members when 

fl ying from Stockholm, Copenhagen 

�� 

Food and drink 

There is always a great selection of food 

onboard SAS fl ights, from the free breakfast 

served on domestic Scandinavian 

fl ights to the pre-departure drink and 

superior meal service off ered on intercontinental 

Business fl ights. 

Choices vary depending on destination 

and type of ticket but coff ee and tea is 

free on all SAS fl ights. 

Seating 

From the Business Sleeper that off ers a 

52cm/20” wide seat and 200 cm/79” of 

living space, to adjustable neck and leg 

rests in Economy Extra, and Economy’s 

ergonomically designed seats, we always 

make sure you are sitting comfortably. 

...and always with SAS 

With SAS, what you see is what you get. 

There are no hidden charges because we'd 

rather off er you added value with your ticket 

price – such as child discounts, free baggage 

and seat reservations. Also, we off er you 

more choice with the most comprehensive 

timetable to and from Scandinavia. 

Traveling with SAS can save you both time 

and money. 

Free checked baggage 

Economy 

1 checked bag (23 kg) + 1 hand luggage 

(8 kg) 

Economy Extra 

2 checked bags (23 kg) + 1 hand luggage 

(8 kg) 

Business 

2 checked bags (32 kg) + 1 hand luggage 

(8 kg) 

EuroBonus Silver and Gold members have 

additional baggage benefi ts. 

Entertainment 

Intercontinental fl ights off er movies, 

music and games on individual screens. 

Economy Extra and Business passengers 

can enjoy on-demand services, and there 

are power outlets to charge your laptop. 

Now you can be just as productive in the air as you are on the ground. SAS Wi-Fi Onboard 

is a powerful connection that supports both Wi-Fi and telephone communication. The service, 

currently being rolled out across SAS's fl eet, is free for Business and Economy Extra 

passengers, as well as EuroBonus Gold members. In Economy there is a small fee for using 

the service. 

�� 

online community where you take part in shaping 

the airline of tomorrow by sharing your 

experiences and suggesting improvements to 

the services SAS off ers both in the air and on 

�� 

0¢ 

� Free checked baggage 

��No seat reservation fees 

��Child discount 25%-90% 

��Newspapers, coff ee and tea 

included in the ticket price 

��24 hour money-back guarantee 


Worldwide reach 

SAS and our partners can carry you to 

more 1,290 airports in 189 countries 

SAS Group airlines 

Blue1, SAS, Widerøe. 

Star Alliance and other airline partners 

Adria, Aegean, Aerofl ot, airBaltic, 

Air Canada, Air China, Air New Zealand, 

ANA, Asiana Airlines, Atlantic Airways, 

Austrian, Brussels Airlines, City Airline, 

Croatia Airlines, EgyptAir, Estonian Air, 

�� 

�� 

Lufttransport, Qantas, Rossiya, Singapore 

Airlines, South African Airways, Swiss, 

�� 

�� 

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Flying children 

No other airline takes better care of your 

kids. SAS off ers an unaccompanied minor 

service to ensure they are looked after 

throughout the trip. The service enable 

children aged 5–11 to fl y alone. 

The service is optional for travelers aged 

12-15 years. Read more at Flysas.com 

TALK TO SAS 

Flysas.com For all information related to 

fl ying with SAS. Or visit our local websites: 

sas.se, sas.dk and sas.no 

Frequent fl yers 

Fly with a bonus 

SAS EuroBonus is the leading bonus program in the Nordic countries, 

with countless reasons to join – both on the ground and up in the air 

Seats for points 

�� 

fl ights 

�� 

combination of points and cash. 

�� 

�� 

children aged 2-11. 

Earn points on: 

�� 

and several other airlines. 

�� 

�� 

terCard and earn points on purchases. 

�� 

�� 

�� 

The perks 

Facebook.com/SAS 

Become a fan, share your 

stories and ask your questions 

EuroBonus Silver 

As a EuroBonus Silver 

member you are entitled 

to Business check-in, an extra piece of 

baggage, 15 percent more Basic points 

on all SAS Group and Estonian Air 

fl ights and more. 

Doing business 

SAS has the right 

solution for your 

company, giving you 

the tools to manage 

your travel more eff ectively, 

from booking to payment. 

You can also earn bonus trips. 

SAS Credits 

SAS's corporate program gives 

companies credits for every fl ight, 

SAS Customer Care www.fl ysas.com/feedback. Or call the SAS head offi ce: +46 8 797 00 00 

Twitter.com/SAS 

Catch up with SAS 

and jot us a line 

Spend points on: 

�� 

and several other airlines. 

�� 

Alliance fl ights. 

�� 

�� 

�� 

Check your points 

Find your up-to-date balance by 

logging on to Flysas.com 

Not yet a member? 

Sign up and read more on partners, benefi 

ts and off ers on Flysas.com/eurobonus 

�� 

EuroBonus Gold 

In addition to the Silver 

benefi ts, Gold members 

get Fast Track and SAS and Star Alliance 

lounge access, 25 percent more Basic 

points on fl ights with SAS Group and 

Estonian Air. 

which results in bonus trips. SAS 

Credits is free to join and can be 

combined with EuroBonus. 

SAS Travel Pass 

�� 

�� 

as you fl y. 

�� 

business for more information. 

Youtube.com/fl ySAS 

Check out SAS’s 

latest videos 


SAS FLEET 

SAS 

Airbus A340-300 

Number of aircraft 7 

Number of seats 245 

Max. takeoff weight 275.0 metric tons 

Max. payload 44.1 metric tons 

Length 63.7 m 






Length 63.7 m 






Length 44.5 m 






Length 33.8 m 

Boeing 737-600/700/800 

Number of aircraft 28/19/20 

Number of seats 123/141/186 

Max. takeoff weight 59.9/69.6/ 

79.0 metric tons 

Max. payload 13.2/15.2/19.6 metric tons 

Length 31.2/33.6/39.5 m 

Boeing 737-400/500 

Number of aircraft 3/7 

Number of seats 150/120 

Max. takeoff weight 68/57.8 metric tons 

Max. payload 17.3/13.5 metric tons 

Length 36.4/31.0 m 

Wing span 60.3 m 

Cruising speed 875 kmph/545 mph 

Range 12,800 km 

Fuel consumption 0.039 liters per seat/km 

Engine CFM56-5C4 





Engine RR Trent 772B 





Engine IAE 





Engine IAE V2524-A5 

Wing span 34.3/35.8/35.8 m 


Range 2,400/4,400/4,200 km 

Fuel consumption 0.038/0.032/0.028 

liters per seat/km 

Engine CFM56-7B 



Range 3,150/4,100 km 

Fuel consumption 0.034/0.039 

liters per seat/km 

Engine CFM56-3C 

MD-82/87 





Length 45.1 m 

CRJ900 NG (Next Generation) 



Max. takeoff weight 38 metric tons 


Length 36.2 m 

Blue1 

Boeing 717 





Length 37.8 m 

Widerøe 

Dash 8-Q400 





Length 32.8 m 

Dash 8-Q300 





Length 25.7 m 

Dash 8-Q100 





Length 22.3 m 





Engine P&W JT8D-217C/219 





Engine GE CF34-8C5A1 





Engine RR BR 715A1-30 





Engine P&W PW150A 





Engine P&W PW123 



Range 750 km 


Engine P&W PW121

950 daily SAS Group departures 

within Scandinavia 

Ørsta/Volda 

Sandane 

Florø Førde 

Bergen 

Haugesund 

Stavanger 

Oslo 

Page 32 

Smooth criminal 

Round-trip from 

20,000* EuroBonus 

points 

*From airports in Scandinavia 

and Finland. Taxes and fees apply, 

from €33 

Kristiansund sund 

Molde 

Ålesund 

Sogndal 

Kristiansand 

NORTH SEA 

HARDANGER- 

VIDDA 

DENMARK 

DOVREFJELL EF 

JYLLAND 

Bilund 

NORWEGIAN 

SEA 

NORWAY W 

Skien 

Ålborg 

Hamburg 

Oslo 

Glomma 

L O F O T E N 

FYN SJÆLLAND 

Sønderborg 

Røst 

Sandnessjøen 

Brønnøysund 

Rørvik 

Namsos 

Trondheim 

Sandefjord 

Århus 

GERMANY 

Halmstad 

Copenhagen 

Stokmarknes 

Leknes 

Mo i Rana 

Klarälven 

Karlstad 

Göteborg 

Mosjøen 

VÄNERN 

Andenes 

RÜGEN 

Svolvær 

Bodo 

Helsingborg/ 

Ängelholm 

Malmö 

Indalsälven 

SWEDEN 

Örebro 

Hemavan 

HORNAVAN 

Vilhemina 

Dalälven 

Norrköping 

Linköping 

VÄTTERN 

Nordkapp 

Honningsvåg 

L A P L A N D 

NORDIC ROUTES 

KOLA 

PENINSULA 


ÖLAND 

Umeälven 

Örnsköldsvik 

Åre/Östersund 

Jönköping 

Rønne 

(Bornholm) 

Växjo 

Tromso 

Harstad/Narvik 

Ronneby 

Narvik 

Bardufoss 

Kiruna 

Kramfors 

Visby 

Hasvik 

Sørkjosen 

Arvidsjaur 

Lycksele 

Sundsvall/ 

Härnosand 

Kalmar 

Torneälven 

Arctic Circle 

Luleälven 

ÅLAND 

GOTLAND 

BALTIC SEA 

POLAND 

Gällivare 

Skellefteå 

Umeå 

Stockholm 

Gdansk 

Wisla 

Hammerfest 

Alta 

Luleå 

Lakselv 

GULF OF BOTHNIA 

Vaasa 

(Vasa) 

Pori 

Tampere 

(Tammerfors) 

HIIUMAA 

SAAREMAA 

Palanga 

Kittilä 

RUSSIA 

Kaliningrad 

Mehamn 

Berlevåg 

Båtsfjord 

INARI 

Kokkola/ 

Peitarsaari 

Turku 

(Åbo) 

Nemunas 

Oulujoki 

Riga 

Vadsø 

FINLAND 

PÄIJÄNNE 

Tallinn 

Vardø 

Kirkenes 

Kuusamo 

Oulu (Uleaborg) 

ESTONIA 

LITHUANIA 

HAUKIVESI 

SAIMAA 

LATVIA 

Daugava 

BARENTS SEA 

RUSSIA 

Kuopio 

Helsinki 

(Helsingfors) 

Vilnius 

BELARUS 

PIELINEN 

Lappeenranta 

St. Petersburg 

RUSSIA 

Minsk 

© 2005 LIBER AB. Stockholm, Sweden. September 2012

EUROPEAN ROUTES 

Reach 181 countries 

around the world 

Extremadura 

Page 84 

Hamming it up 

Round-trip to Madrid from 

40,000* EuroBonus points 

*Taxes and fees apply, from €40 

Not on the map: Las Palmas and Tel Aviv. 

Lisbon 

Rabat 

A T L A N T I C 

O C E A N 

PORTUGAL 

Faro 

Tejo 

MOROCCO 

Malaga 

Reykjavik 

ICELAND 

London 

Page 50 

Nothing to grouse 

about 

Round-trip from 30,000* 

EuroBonus points 

FAEROE ISLANDS LAN 


Dublin 

REP. OF 

IRELAND 

P Y R E N E E S 


Ebro 

Edin Edinburgh d 

Loire 

Algiers 

ORKNEY 

ISLANDS I 

UNITED NITED D KINGDOM N 

Manchester est este 

Birmingham 

Seine 

NORWEGIAN SEA 

Rhone 

SHETLAND 

ISLANDS 

NORTH SEA 

NETHER- 

LANDS 

Rhine 

A L P S 

Tunis 

Arctic Circle 

NORWAY 

DENMARK 

Oslo 

SWEDEN 

Brussels 

BELGIUM 

Dusseldorf 

GERMANY 

Paris 

LUXEM. 

Luxembourg 

Frankfurt 

Prague 

CZECH C 

REP. 

Stuttgart gart a 

Linz 

FRANCE 

Munich 

Vienna 

BAY OF BISCAY 

Lyon 

Zurich 

LIECHT. 

SWITZERLAND 

Geneva 

AUSTRIA 

Graz 

Ljubljana 

Milan 

Venice 

Po 

Bologna 

SLOVENIA 

Zagreb 

CROATIA 

Pula 

BOSNI 

ANDORRA 

Marseille 

Nice MONACO 

Florence 

SAN 

HERZEG 

MARINO 

Split 

Madrid 

SPAIN 

Barcelona 

CORSICA 

VATICAN 

STATE 

Rome 

ITALY 

MALLORCA 

Palma ma de Mallorca 

MMallorca ll 

SARDINI SARDINIA NIA NI 

Alicante 

ALGERIA 

Aberdeen 

Newcastle 

Ne 

London 

Amsterdam 

Elbe 

A P P E N I N E S 

Danube 

M E D I T E R R A N E A N S E A 

TUNISIA 

Bergen 

Stavanger 

Kristiansand 

Bremen 

Hanover 

Trondheim 

Göteborg 

Copenhagen 

Hamburg 

SICILY 

MALTA 

Berlin

N 

Bratislava 

reb 

A 

SNIA AND 

ZEGOVINA Belgrade 

SERBIA 

Sarajevo 

A 

Gdanskk 

B A LT I C S E A 

PO POLAND N 

Poznan znan 

Stockholm 

Lodz o 

Wroclaw W 

SLOVAKIA 

Budapest 

HUNGARY 

FINLAND 

Tallinn 

ESTONIAA 

99 

Page 

LATVIA 

Riga 

Palanga 

LITHUANIA 

Brush Moscowup 

on Basel 

Round-trip to Zürich from 30,000* 



RUSSIA RU 

Kaliningrad 

Kaliningra rad 

Vilnius Vi iu us 

Minsk k 

Katowice Kat K t w 

CARPARTHIAN MTS 

ROMANIA 

BELARUS S 

AEGEAN 

SEA 

Dnestr 

Kiev 

MOLDOVA 

Chisinau 

Danube 

MONTE- 

NEGRO Priština 

Dubrovnik 

KOSOVO 

Podgorica 

Skopje 

BULGARIA 

Sofia 

Tirana MACEDONIA 

ALBANIA 

Helsinki 

(Helsingfors) 

Warsaw W 

GREECE 

Thessaloniki sss 

Chania 

Athens At thenss LAKE E 

LADOGA ADOG OG 

Heraklion 

CRETE 

White Sea 

St. St Petersburg te b 

Bucharest 

UKRAINE 

Izmir 

Istanbul 

Bodrum Antalya ly 

Kos os 

Rhodes d 

Dalaman m 

RHODES 

Dnepr 

Volga 

RUSSIA R 

Basel 

CRIMEA 

BLACK SEA 

Ankara 

TURKEY KEY 

Mallorca 

Page 20 

Bay watch 

Round-trip from 

40,000* EuroBonus 

points 

Alanya 


Larnaca 

CYPRUS 

Beirut 

Damaskus 

CAUCASUS MTS 

Tbilisi Baku 

Bagdad 

© 2005 IRAQ LIBER AB. Stockholm, Sweden. September 2012 


Don 

SYRIA 

Volga 

GEORGIA 

KAZAKHSTAN 

ARMENIA 

Jerevan 

CASPIAN SEA 

AZERBAIJAN 

IRAN

HEAD INTERCONTINENTAL ROUTES 

1,160 destinations 

around the world 

Alaska 

(USA) 

Vancouver 

Seattle 

Tropic of Cancer 

R O C K Y M O U N T A I N S 

CANADA 

Calgary 

EASTER IS. 

(CHILE) 

Arctic Circle 

Tropic of Capricorn 

VICTORIA 

ISLAND 

A N D E S 

BAFFIN 

ISLAND 

PUERTO PUERTOO O ORRICO 

RICO 

GREENLAND 

(DENMARK) 

TRINDADE 

FAROE IS. 

(DENM.) 

SHETLAND IS. 

(UK.) 

ASCENSION 

TRISTAN 

DA CUNHA 

SVALBARD 

(NOR.) 

ST. HELENA 

FALKLAND ISLANDS 

(UK.) 

SOUTH GEORGIA 

(UK.) 

SOUTH SANDWICH ISLANDS 

(UK.) 

SOUTH ORKNEY 

ISLANDS (UK.) 


(USA) (USA) A 

(BRAZ.) 

(PORT.) 

IRELAND 

CÔTE 

D’IVOIRE 

(UK.) 

(UK.) 

GHANA TOGO 

(UK.) 

r O 

UNITED 

KINGDOM 

BJØRNØYA 

(NOR.) 

NORWAY 

Portland 

Quebec 

Ottawa 

Minneapolis 

Toronto Montréal 

UNITED STATES 

Detroit 

Chicago 

Cleveland 

Halifax 

Las 

Indianapolis 

Boston 

Denver Kansas 

Pitts- 

Vegas 

New York 

San Francisco 

City 

burg Philadelphia 

Saint Louis Cincinnati innat Washington D.C. 

Greensboro 

Gr G eensbor e o 

Los Angeles 

Memphis Nashville i Rale RRaleigh eigh 

Phoenix Dallas Atlanta Charlotte harlot har tt t e 

BERMUDA 

Austin 

Jacksonville sonnville 

BERMUDA M 

(UK.) 

K 

Houston New Orlando OOrlando 

do d 

Orleans Tampa West Palm Beach 

Fort Lauderdale uderdale 

Miami 

BAHAMAS AMAS 

CU C 

St. John's 

FRANCE 

SPAIN 

AZORES 

(PORT.) PORTUGAL 

MADEIRA 

MOROCCO 

Tenerife 

CANARY ISLANDS 

ALGERIA 

(SPAIN) Gran Canaria 

ATLANTIC 

Westsahara 

OCEAN C 

ITALY 

G 

TUNISIA 

LIBYA Y 

Mexico City 

JAMAICA HAITI H 

San Sa San a Ju Juan an 

BELIZE 

ST. . KITTS & NEVIS 

ANTIGUA AN ANTIGUA N & BARBUDA 

D 

GUATEMALA HONDURAS DOMINICA NICA 

ST. VINCENT ENT ST. LUCIA 

EL SALVADOR NICARAGUA GRENADA DA BARBADOS 

CLIPPERTON 

TRINIDAD T & TOBAGO G 

(FR.) COSTA RICA 

PANAMA VENEZUELA ELAA 

COLOMBIA 

Equator GALÁPAGOS 

(ECUADOR) 

ECUADOR 

MAURITANIA 

MA 

MALI 

CAPE 

NIGER 

VERDE V SENEGA SENEG SENEGAL 

GALL 

CHAD A 

GAMBIA 

BURKINA 

GUINEA-BISSAU AU 

FASO 

GUINEA GU GUINE GU G 

NIGERIA 

SIERRA LEONE LEOON 

CENTRAL L 

AFRICAN N 

LIBERIA L 

REP. P 

EQU. CAMEROON N 

GUINEA 

Equator 

SÃO GABON 

TOMÉ & 

PRÍNCIPE KONGO 

(Rep.) KON 

(Dem( 

urg b 

nna Washin 

b 

Ch 

Jacks J 

Orland O 

West P 

Fo Fort r LLau 

L 

BAHAM BA B 

CUB UBA BA 

HA HAAITI 

TI 

. KITTS & NEV 

DOMIN 

ST. VINCE 

GRENAD GR G 

V EZUE 

Chicago 

Wise guy 




MEXICO CUBA 

PERU 

Lima 

CHILE 

DOM. DOM DOM. 

REP. REP. 

BOLIVIA BO OL V A 

ARGENTINA 

BRAZIL Z L 

PARAGUAY 

PARA AR ARAG 

G 

GUYANA GUYANA GUY 

SURINAM SUR SSURINAM 

French Fr Fr French 

Guyana GGu Guyana 

URUGUAY 

Reykjavik 

Page 28 

ICELAND 

Longyearbyen 

A l p s 

MED I TER R A N E A N S 

BENIN 

Oslo 

Copenhagen 

SWEDEN 

ANGOLA 

NAMIBIA 

Cape Town 

BOUVETØYA 

(NOR.) 

Stockholm 

k 

m 

A 

B 

A

- 

FINLAND 

N SEA 

ZIMBABWE 

FRANS JOSEFS 

LAND 

(RUSSIA) 

TURKEY 

IRAQ 

NOVAJA 

ZEMLJA 

BOTSWANA 

MOZAMBIQUE 

Johannesburg 

SWAZILAND 

LESOTHO 

SOUTH 

AFRICA 

U R A L M O U N T A I N S 

MADAGASCAR 

CROZET IS. 

(FR.) 

PRINCE EDWARD 

ISLANDS 

(S. AFRICA) 

KAZAKHSTANN 

MAURITIUS 

REUNION 

(FR.) 

R U S S I A 

KERGUELEN 

(FR.) 

H I M A L A Y A S 

INDIAN OCEAN 

HEARD ISLAND 

(AUSTR.) 

NEW AMSTERDAM 

(FR.) 

BHUTAN 

BANGLA- 

DESH 

MONGOLIA OL 

Arctic Circle 

SEA OF 

OCHOTSK 


KAMTJATKA 

Tropic of Cancer 

GUAM 

(USA) 

NORTHERN 

MARIANA 

ISLANDS 

(USA) 

Tropic of Capricorn 

TASMANIA 

BERING SEA 

MARCUS 

(JAPAN) 

NEW 

CALEDONIA 

(FR.) 

ALEUTIAN ISLANDS 

UZBEKISTAN 

KYRGYZSTAN 

Beijing 

NORTH 

KOREA 

JAPAN 

GREECE 

Tel Aviv 

Cairo 

A 

EGYPT 

TURK- 

MENISTAN 

TAJIKISTAN 

SYRIA 

AFGHANI- 

IRAN STAN 

KUWAIT 

PAKISTAN 

NEPAL 

BAHRAIN Dubai 

QATAR 

SAUDI- UNITED ARAB 

EMIRATES INDIA 

ARABIA 

OMAN 

SOUTH 

Qingdao KOREA 

Tokyo 

CHINA 

Osaka 

Fukuoka 

Nanjing 

Shanghai 

Chengdu 

RYUKYU IS. BONIN IS. 

Xiamen 

(JAPAN) (JAPAN) 

Guangzhou 

TAIWAN 

BURMA/ Hanoi 

Hongkong 

MYANMAR 

LAOS 

PACIFIC 

OCEAN 

(USA) 

THAILAND 

SUDAN ERITREA 

VIETNAM 

D 

YEMEN 

ANDAMAN IS. 

(INDIA) 

CAMBODIA Manila 

DJIBOUTI 

Bangkok 

LACKADIVES 

PHILIPPINES 

(INDIA) 

SOUTH Addis Abeba 

NIKOBAR IS. 

(INDIA) 

. 

SUDAN ETHIOPIA 

SOMALIA 

MALDIVES 

SRI 

BRUNEI 

UGANDA 

LANKA 

PALAU 

KENYA 

MALAYSIA 

Nairobi 

RWANDA 

SINGAPORE 

KONGO 

Mombasa 

BURUNDI 

Dem. Rep.) 

I N D O N E S I A 

Zanzibar SEYCHELLES CHAGOS IS. 

TANZANIA 

(UK.) 

EAST TIMOR 

MARSHALL 

ISLANDS 

MICRONESIA 

Equator 

NAURU 

PAPUA 

NEW GUINEA SOLOMON 

ISLANDS 

TUVALU 

ZAMBIA MALAWI 

COMORES 

COCOS IS. 

(AUSTR.) 

Chang Mai 

Phuket 

Kuala Lumpur 

Krabi 

Ho Chi Minh 

Saigon 

Singapore 

Perth 

Milan 

Page 30 

If it's good enough for 

Gucci... 



*Taxes and fees apply, Sappor Sap Sapporo 

from €43 

o 

AUSTRALIA 

Sydney 

VANUATU 

Alaska 

(USA) 

(USA) 

Melbourne Auckland 

NEW 

ZEALAND 

WAKE 

International Date Line 

FIJI 

ISLANDS 

KERMADEC IS. 

(N.Z) 

CHATHAM IS. 

(N.Z) 

© 2005 LIBER AB. Stockholm, Sweden. September 2012

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