What did you do to your 2004-2008 F-150 today?

[AirtekHVAC]

Replaced the headlight and fog light bulbs with LED. Replaced the broken 3rd light assembly with LED assembly. Replaced the rear driver side power lock actuator, replaced front speakers (rears had already been replaced)

[john15016]

Just got it a few weeks ago and started finishing the detailing. A little Armorall, and soap. Got a tool box for it and bought some hand tools. As I have owned Fords for many years.

[AirtekHVAC]

Installed 2 undercover swing out toolboxes. Got them on Facebook marketplace for a hundo! Love em!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B7VSOS/re ... 1CbBMM63WC

[whatpothole]

Looks like I'm going to be replacing a front brake caliper. Went to stop and one of the pistons broke into 3 little pieces. Upon investigating the issue I found that the boot for my upper ball joint is shot and needs replacing.

[whatpothole]

3 things done today...

I replaced the driver's side caliper. I don't know what happened but the piston just shattered. Replaced the upper ball joint on the drivers side... Total time for both was 2 hours.

I thought that my tie rod ends where going due to play in the steering but it turned out to be the steering shaft. 2 bolts to take it off... The bottom one was a pain in the butt. 2 hours just to replace this piece. 1 3/4 hours to take the thing off due to corrosion and to clean the stubs off, 15 minutes to put the new one on.

[308Winn]

Hello everyone. I am new to this forum. Today I have been tracking down an electrical issue with my 05 f150, 5.4L. Last night I was coming home dark 30, and my dash & parking lights went out. Headlights were fine. No tail lights. Last year I replaced the MFS and all has been well till the other night. Checked the fuses and found #6 blown- replaced and they worked for 30 minutes. Rechecked all fuses, relays doing the swap-a-roe and still no dash, tail, front parking lights. I even changed out anything that looked suspicious. In a bind, any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

[gunner@3016]

Well, I started out to have new cab mount bushings installed, however, after gettin it up in the air, we found out that none is needed. :/
so, Im stuck figuring out why I still have a lean to the drivers side front...

[Slavereeno]

Started up a new (rebuilt) engine.

[decoy boy]

I replaced the idler pulley along with the serpentine belt. The pulley went at a bad time and left me on the side of the road a long way from home. Got a new pulley at Advance auto but it was plastic. I was kind of in a jam to go to work and my wife needed her car back so I threw it on anyway. I gotta say I'm not comfortable with it. Anybody ever have any problems with plastic pulleys coming apart? Those things never go at a convenient time or place

[kkanoski]

Tried led for the turn brake turn signal, but nothing.
Returned them for stock.

But finishing up bulbs, got side marker amber led's and license plate white led's and they actualy worked. All sockets good now!

Will replace more led's as I go but everything running good now.

[tdrpro210]

Tried led for the turn brake turn signal, but nothing.
Returned them for stock.

I did this recently myself. Turns out there's a converter of a sort that is needed. I'll get around to it one day.

[F1o5]

Picked this up today

[tdrpro210]

Hello. Your post didn't include any photos or item description.

[F1o5]

Picked this 08 xl 2wd 5.4 3v up for a grand. About to break into the engine cam phasers got truck into limp mode. Pulled it with my 05 xlt 4x4 5.4 3v

[whatpothole]

Thanks to Ontario's use of salt on the roads, I had to replace my transmission lines because they corroded and the 2 front fittings on the cooler... I'm surprised the hoses didn't just drop out of the fittings.

truckingfittings.PNG (414.27 KiB) Viewed 987 times

[tdrpro210]

I've began replacing my suspension components finally. I've had the truck for 127k miles since purchasing the darn lemon at 150k. I've had suspension issues over the entire 127k miles of ownership.

I'm pretty sure this truck came from the oil fields here in Texas. There was crushed granite and caliche dust in every crack n crevice and the front suspension has always been crap. Over the years I removed the leveling spacers it came with, replaced the loaded struts twice ( currently on RC 2.5" leveling struts) a ball joint or two, new end link here and there but the ride still sucks. It's super unsafe on rough roads though just not nearly as much as it had been before I tried a few repairs which I can now say have all amounted nothing but bandaides sadly.

I decided to go big and replace pretty much all the crap that's got issues and or has noticably reached its lifespan.
Rack n pinion (damaged from a curb check), PSP(3+year leak) & hoses(why not),
CV axles (boots torn with oozing grease for 5yrs),
MOOG problem solver lower control arms(bushings are all original and all four of the full turn stop knuckle bump things are basically gone),
sway bar bushings and end links,
8 body mount insulators,
Rear leaf spring bushings,
- I have to take the gas tank and muffler off to remove rear leaf spring bushing bolts. I've been having failure to start issues. Replaced the FPDM and problem still exists. Like always, and for the past 4 years it has done this to me less than 10 times so it's very sporadic and inconsistent at best. Since I'm taking the tank down, I run it to near empty all the time and it's got 277k miles on it I decided to get a new fuel pump assembly and sender unit. I went with Bosch for my 138.4 wheelbase.. even ford told me it was a good move because it's the same pump most likely without a Motorcraft stamp on it. I've done the fuel evap lines and purge valve and another thing or two in the engine bay but figure it's time for a new pump anyways.. when else would I be taking the tank off but to save $36 on bolts? Lol

Oh, and I got an FAL 270 Efan.

I have all the parts I need and finally got all the right tools to do the job. (thanks Tekton!)

The other week I replaced the clutch fan with the Efan and boy am I one happy mf. My truck coasts everywhere now, I'm getting 2+ mpg more (I drive 500-1000 miles a week) and lastly but most importantly the reason I got it was to fix my AC issues at idle and in general on hot Texas days. The fan more than meets my expectations. It does have a vibration rattle on the right fan and I'm pretty bummed that I may have to spend $190 on a new motor when I just spent $460 on the unit from ebay. Unfortunately it has no warranty as the fella who sold it to me in new condition purchased and never installed it years ago.


Yesterday i replaced the original rear shocks with Bilstein 5100's. The FTML video was a great help, as is any video he releases, but I had to switch things up because I didn't have enough clearance to use his technique with a breaker bar. Instead I used a ratchet strap to keep them compressed but only a tad at first. Get the top placed held into position with a bolt. Then maneuver the bottom as close to where it should be seated as possible. Now use the ratchet to really compress it all the while continually maneuvering the shock into alignment with the bolt hole. It only took a few 4-6 clicks to get them into place and was an over all low effort job. Took like 10 minutes total after I figured out how to do this all by myself with the help of the ratchet straps.
Be sure to keep the hinge of the ratchet low enough on the shock to allow clearance near the top bracket. I had to lower mine below the blue stripe (unlike as seen in pic in front of wheel) to be able to seat the shock correctly and for ratcheting purposes. I also kept the ratchet facing me, the front of the vehicle, for easy access for ratcheting though I'm sure there was enough room to have them facing the back and to control from there, but why get up if you dont have to since you're already on your back?.?.?

I guess I needed new rear shocks YEARS ago. They both compressed with ease and basically zero resistance. As you can see, one never extended by itself after I compressed it with my fingers..lol

The moment I drove off my driveways lip I could tell a noticeable improvement in ride comfort and the lack of cabin rattle noise because of so. I hit the previously dreaded roadway bumps with a bit of a smile as the improvements I had made flaunted their success immediately.

Can't wait to feel and (to not) hear how well she'll be doing in the coming weeks as I replace everything else.

All parts are ford oem that I'm installing unless otherwise mentioned. It's the only way IMO and from what I've read time and time again. I've only gone outside of OEM after reading post after post all these years of documented success stories. Like for instance, I used the Dorman FPDM only because of y'all. Thanks! Also, learned afterwards that Dorman basically takes an expired ford patent and makes an exact copy without the Motorcraft name on it anyways. I like seeing Ford on my forever truck and I'm sure my nephew will get a kick out of the money he gets for it because of so 20 years from now after in dead and gone.

[dedwards_0323]

Odometer on my 2006 F150 STX 4x4 started to flash intermittently back in March, and beginning the 1st of April it stopped showing any mileage. After searching the forum, I found Circuit Board Medics (check out their website). These guys are practically in my backyard in Greenville, SC - never knew they even existed. Anyway, removed my instrument cluster last weekend & took it to their location Monday when they opened. They issued me a repair order and said the turnaround was typically 1 business day. Tuesday morning around 9:30 I received a text saying the cluster was repaired & I could come by to pick it up. Repair cost me $199. I paid an additional $30 for them to upgrade the cluster backlighting with LED bulbs while they were servicing the cluster. Installed the repaired cluster on Wednesday and the STX 4x4 is back in business!

[tdrpro210]

darn.. i paid $600 for a new cluster in January. I needed one STAT unfortunately

[ISipcoffee]

What I didn't do is find this vacuumed leak
Codes p0171 and 174

[ISipcoffee]

I've began replacing my suspension components finally. I've had the truck for 127k miles since purchasing the darn lemon at 150k. I've had suspension issues over the entire 127k miles of ownership.

I'm pretty sure this truck came from the oil fields here in Texas. There was crushed granite and caliche dust in every crack n crevice and the front suspension has always been crap. Over the years I removed the leveling spacers it came with, replaced the loaded struts twice ( currently on RC 2.5" leveling struts) a ball joint or two, new end link here and there but the ride still sucks. It's super unsafe on rough roads though just not nearly as much as it had been before I tried a few repairs which I can now say have all amounted nothing but bandaides sadly.

I decided to go big and replace pretty much all the crap that's got issues and or has noticably reached its lifespan.
Rack n pinion (damaged from a curb check), PSP(3+year leak) & hoses(why not),
CV axles (boots torn with oozing grease for 5yrs),
MOOG problem solver lower control arms(bushings are all original and all four of the full turn stop knuckle bump things are basically gone),
sway bar bushings and end links,
8 body mount insulators,
Rear leaf spring bushings,
- I have to take the gas tank and muffler off to remove rear leaf spring bushing bolts. I've been having failure to start issues. Replaced the FPDM and problem still exists. Like always, and for the past 4 years it has done this to me less than 10 times so it's very sporadic and inconsistent at best. Since I'm taking the tank down, I run it to near empty all the time and it's got 277k miles on it I decided to get a new fuel pump assembly and sender unit. I went with Bosch for my 138.4 wheelbase.. even ford told me it was a good move because it's the same pump most likely without a Motorcraft stamp on it. I've done the fuel evap lines and purge valve and another thing or two in the engine bay but figure it's time for a new pump anyways.. when else would I be taking the tank off but to save $36 on bolts? Lol

Oh, and I got an FAL 270 Efan.

I have all the parts I need and finally got all the right tools to do the job. (thanks Tekton!)

The other week I replaced the clutch fan with the Efan and boy am I one happy mf. My truck coasts everywhere now, I'm getting 2+ mpg more (I drive 500-1000 miles a week) and lastly but most importantly the reason I got it was to fix my AC issues at idle and in general on hot Texas days. The fan more than meets my expectations. It does have a vibration rattle on the right fan and I'm pretty bummed that I may have to spend $190 on a new motor when I just spent $460 on the unit from ebay. Unfortunately it has no warranty as the fella who sold it to me in new condition purchased and never installed it years ago.


Yesterday i replaced the original rear shocks with Bilstein 5100's. The FTML video was a great help, as is any video he releases, but I had to switch things up because I didn't have enough clearance to use his technique with a breaker bar. Instead I used a ratchet strap to keep them compressed but only a tad at first. Get the top placed held into position with a bolt. Then maneuver the bottom as close to where it should be seated as possible. Now use the ratchet to really compress it all the while continually maneuvering the shock into alignment with the bolt hole. It only took a few 4-6 clicks to get them into place and was an over all low effort job. Took like 10 minutes total after I figured out how to do this all by myself with the help of the ratchet straps.
Be sure to keep the hinge of the ratchet low enough on the shock to allow clearance near the top bracket. I had to lower mine below the blue stripe (unlike as seen in pic in front of wheel) to be able to seat the shock correctly and for ratcheting purposes. I also kept the ratchet facing me, the front of the vehicle, for easy access for ratcheting though I'm sure there was enough room to have them facing the back and to control from there, but why get up if you dont have to since you're already on your back?.?.?

I guess I needed new rear shocks YEARS ago. They both compressed with ease and basically zero resistance. As you can see, one never extended by itself after I compressed it with my fingers..lol

The moment I drove off my driveways lip I could tell a noticeable improvement in ride comfort and the lack of cabin rattle noise because of so. I hit the previously dreaded roadway bumps with a bit of a smile as the improvements I had made flaunted their success immediately.

Can't wait to feel and (to not) hear how well she'll be doing in the coming weeks as I replace everything else.

All parts are ford oem that I'm installing unless otherwise mentioned. It's the only way IMO and from what I've read time and time again. I've only gone outside of OEM after reading post after post all these years of documented success stories. Like for instance, I used the Dorman FPDM only because of y'all. Thanks! Also, learned afterwards that Dorman basically takes an expired ford patent and makes an exact copy without the Motorcraft name on it anyways. I like seeing Ford on my forever truck and I'm sure my nephew will get a kick out of the money he gets for it because of so 20 years from now after in dead and gone.

Would have never thought of this alone
Thanks.