Music, art and more bring Pompeii back to life
POMPEII, Italy — This was a swinging town that had one really bad day.
But don’t think of Pompeii as some kind of cemetery from 79 A.D.
There is hammering. There is jabbering. There is artwork and even singing.
A whole lot of living being done in Pompeii this year — massive repairs, a stunning sculpture exhibit and even plans for an Elton John concert here in July at an ancient outdoor theater.
That makes it a fascinating time to visit, despite some construction fences and blocked-off areas that seem to constantly change.
“To me, every day is a surprise,” says Antonio Passaro, who has guided tourists around Pompeii for 20 years. “They are trying to open things up that have been closed for years. I think Pompeii will be at its best in about five or six months.”
What's happening
In 79 A.D., the city was buried in thick, deadly ash when the nearby Mt. Vesuvius volcano blew its top. It was lost to the world for nearly 1,700 years until excavations began in the 18th Century.
Now, Pompeii is the fifth most-visited ancient site in the world, after Rome's Colosseum, Forum and China’s Great Wall and Xian terracotta warriors.
Pompeii had a flood of 3 million tourists in 2015, up from 2 million in 2009.
Harshly criticized for allowing the ruins to deteriorate for lack of maintenance, Pompeii is now spending more than $100 million from the European Union to improve the site. It also will get $46 million more this year from the Italian government. The result? Lots of construction fences, archaeological work, digging and mosaic work.
Still, tourists can see a lot. Many favorite sites remain open, at least most days: The wealthy House of the Faun. The House of the Tragic Poet with its quirky “CAVE CANEM” (beware of the dog) warning at the front door. The House of the Oven. The lovely amber-colored Forum Baths, and a brothel, small bakery and other everyday shops that make Pompeii such a warm, human scale town.
Enhancing art
Also striking to visitors this year is the temporary — and beautiful — addition of 30 massive sculptures done by Polish sculptor Igor Mitoraj. Before he died in 2014, his last wish was to have his work displayed at Pompeii. He even envisioned where each sculpture would go. They were installed in May and will remain until January 2017.
Although it seems as if it might be wrong to add artwork to such an historic place as Pompeii, I found that the sculptures resonated and seemed comfortable here, as if they were meant to be here all along. Depicting mythological characters, they are of bronze, plaster and marble.
It also might seem wrong to have British pop singer Elton John perform in an ancient theater here on July 12, and Pink Floyd guitarist David Gilmour perform on July 7-8. No rock performances like these have ever been at Pompeii (Pink Floyd recorded part of a film here in 1971, but there was no audience). But the people of Pompeii loved entertainment, so, who knows? They likely would cram the seats to see the shows.
As I walked through the orderly streets, we came to the Forum Granary, where many artifacts of the city are stored — jars, pots, furniture, even a wooden wagon that somehow survived after being buried in mud. In the middle of all that was a plaster cast of a man, his head bowed, hands together. He was one of those who died here in 79 A.D.
What would he think of all this? I do not know. He may wish for silence or to be left alone. But I would like to think that surrounding him with the vibrant stuff of life — music and art and the murmur of the tourists and the hammering of the carpenters — is a good way to honor this ancient man and city.
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If you go
Getting there: Many visitors come on day tours from Rome (about a 2 1/2 hour bus ride each way) or Sorrento (30 minutes), or take tours arranged by cruise ships. To come on your own, take the Circumvesuviana train to Pompeii (on the Naples-Sorrento line). It stops directly across from the ruins at the Pompeii Scavi-Villa Misteri station.
Entrance fee: 13 euros (about $15). That also gets you a very good booklet and map about the site.
Guides: Only licensed guides can give tours of Pompeii. Get one ahead of time or look for one at the entrance. Or use an audio tour, available at the entrance, or download something ahead of time. Read up on Pompeii before you visit to avoid wandering aimlessly. One of the best preparations is reading the meticulously researched novel "Pompeii" by Robert Harris (Random House.)
Slow walkers: Pompeii, as much of Italy, is not disability friendly. Wear sturdy shoes for walking on uneven cobblestones and paths. No facilities for wheelchair users or other physically challenged visitors.
Weather: It can get very hot, so bring hat, umbrella, sunscreen and bottled water. There are drinking spigots throughout the site. Visit in spring, fall or winter to avoid heat and crowds.
For more: www.pompeiisites.org.
Related sites
♦The most valuable Pompeii artifacts -- jewelry, some mosaics, artwork and household items are on display at the National Archaeological Museum in Naples. Tickets are 8 euros (about $9, see www.coopculture.it/en/.) The Pompeii wing also has a special exhibit featuring art representations of nature in Pompeii, through September.
♦Herculaneum is another site with well-preserved ruins in the area. For more see www.coopculture.it/en/heritage.cfm?id=72.
Fixing up Italy
Italy has more UNESCO world heritage sites than any other country – 50. And tourists in the next few years may see their favorite site being restored. The Italian government just passed a $1.15 billion appropriation to fix up 33 cultural sites. Among the sites where work will be done:
♦Pompeii
♦Herculaneum
♦National Archaeological Museum of Naples
♦Uffizi Galleries, Florence
♦Pinacoteca di Brera, Milan
♦Reggia di Caserta near Naples
♦Via Francigena, a pilgrimage route
♦Stone prison on Santo Stefano
♦Convent on the island of San Nicola
♦Historic structures in L’Aquila
-- Ellen Creager
